Last word on Bourdain
David "Z on TV" Zurawik was my guest on Wednesday's Midday and we discussed Anthony Bourdain's Baltimore bit on No Reservations. Z -- and his blog followers -- had some interesting things to say about the food critic's take on B-town. Here, with the last word (for now) is a note from Midday listener Victor Lapides:
"Bourdain always struck me as rather a louche figure and not to be taken seriously as either a travel or a food correspondent. Certainly any responsible college freshman knows roughly where the Corn Belt or the Bible Belt or the Rust Belt is. Maybe this phoned-in effort reflects Bourdain's take on this place as provincial and clannish when he lived here (it is), or that he couldn't find himself comfortable here (he probably didn't.) But I was surprised that you didn't challenge him on the one subject where he so obviously fell short, which is food. Even in its diminished state, most people I know don't consider Chesapeake Bay cuisine to have a serious rival for seafood in New England, New Orleans or the West Coast. There's a reason why (the late) Johnny Apple of the New York Times called Faidley's crab cake 'the finest crab dish in the Western Hemisphere,' and why wealthy New Yorkers in the Gatsby era came down here in their private railroad cars to eat terrapin soup and soft shell crabs in the great Baltimore seafood houses of its day. (My father had a guy out for lunch from Schweppes of England once, and he took him to the Chesapeake and had him get imperial crab. He said, 'Morton, I've had seafood in the finest restaurants in the world and I've never had anything to surpass this.') Even before Iran, this extraordinary bay was the world's premier fishery for sturgeon and caviar. Guys, if someone doesn't like a place's style and has a megaphone on cable to proclaim it, there's not much to be done about it. But to overlook this food . . ."
And Jed Dietz, director of the fabulous Maryland Film Festival, added this: "I heard a chunk of your discussion -- one of my favorite segments -- as you were discussing Bourdain's lazy take on B'more. Isn't it ironic that we shut down filmmaking in Maryland just as THE WIRE went off the air, ensuring that its very particular picture of Baltimore would be the last one standing?






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You need a long, rectangular stainless steel pan, like the chafing trays professional caterers use. (You don't need the whole set-up -- just one of the trays.) I have picked these trays up over the years from restaurant-supply stores. They come in varying depths. The one I used was about three inches deep. The tray needs to be long enough to handle a large salmon filet. You can probably double-up aluminum foil pans, like those used for roasting turkeys, but they may not be long enough for this recipe.
So, here's the deal, kids. If you want to organize a pickup baseball game in your neighborhood, or at a rec field nearby, or if you are looking for players for a Sunday softball game or even a Wiffle Ball game, tell me about it -- give me the when, where and what time -- and try to give at least 24 hours' notice. I'll list it here and send it out on a new Twitter account called PickupBaseball. The story 