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Local Travel: Hoopers Island

The drive to Hoopers Island is not a great time to carry on a cell-phone conversation or reach in the back seat to rescue a fallen toy or needed map. This is a trip that requires the eyes on the road and the hands on the wheel.

Veer too far off the road in either direction, and you will be in marsh. Or, if you're really unlucky, your car will make contact with the Honga River, and not in a good way. For this small chain of three islands is about as remote as remote gets. It shows you on the map, plain as day, but you have to see it to believe it-- the main road over the causeway looks as thin as a ribbon, water on either side, and sometimes even in the roadway. It leads to three remote islands, known as Fishing Creek, Hoopersville and Applegarth.

I thought Hoopers Island would be more like Tylerton, on Smith Island -- a small remote fishing village of a couple dozen houses. It's much bigger than that, or so it seemed to me. But, like Smith, this is a place where most of the folks still make their living on the water. Maryland's small crab houses are here, and many driveways hold delivery trucks boasting names like "Ruark" and "Rippons" -- names that are known on Hooper's and have been for decades.

Phillips seafood got its start here, too, before it became a popular Harborplace dining spot and processed much of its crab meat in Thailand.

As far as I know, there aren't any hotels on the island. But you can stay in Cambridge, about 30 miles away.

A small store, Island Pride, caters to basic needs. And Old Salty's restaurant is known for both great seafood and terrific pies.

Attractions: there is a lighthouse, the Hooper Island light. An old graveyard. And check out these photos from Rearview Mirror's blog.

But the real reason to take a trip to Hooper's Island is to see a community living on the edge, at the mercy of the bay, the winds and the tides. These are people who were cut off from the rest of the world during Tropical Storm Isabel; it wiped out their causeway and stranded people in Hoopersville and beyond. Talk of global warming and climate change and sea-level rise is much more than just talk to people who live on a spit of land sandwiched between bay and river. It means the difference between surviving and not surviving.

If you go, enjoy the view. Just make sure you put that phone down. Really, what could be that important? 

 

Comments

My family came from Hooper's and we had a house there my entire childhood. Not much fun for a kid in the middle of no where - where before they started spraying mosquitos would eat my young flesh off the bones, but it was a gorgeous place with some of the best sunrises and sunsets you will ever see!

Also, some neat history in those parts. There is a stop on the underground railroad on the way over onto Hooper's by the Catholic church. Neat stuff.

Blackwater Refuge is fun to drive through as well.

I think there is a bed and breakfast nearby as well.

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About the bloggers

Rona KobellRona Kobell reports on the Chesapeake Bay, and in her seven years with The Sun, she's visited clam farms in Virginia, a peeler pen on Taylors Island and a small market on Smith Island that serves what many people consider the best crab cake in the world (to judge for yourself, head to the Drum Point Market in Tylerton). Rona enjoys hanging out with her husband and daughter.

Tom PeltonTom Pelton writes about the environment and has been at The Sun for 10 years. He lives in the city with his wife, two daughters, and an exotic ecosystem that involves a cat, hamsters, hermit crabs, cacti, running shoes, drums, guitar, violins, mild cheeses and strong opinions.
Listen in: Tom Pelton's "The Environment in Focus"

Tim WheelerTim Wheeler writes about growth and base-realignment for The Sun. A reporter and editor here since 1985, the West Virginia native has spent most of his adult life around the bay. He lives in Catonsville, one of Baltimore's older, walkable suburbs.

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