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Maryland's last great places

Where are the last great places in Maryland?  In a Land of Pleasant Living rapidly becoming a sprawling, conjoined suburb of Washington and Baltimore, where are the most beautiful remaining natural areas?  And what are they up against?

I'm taking a poll of readers.  If you know of a forest, or an expanse of scenic farmland, or a wetlands or beach that's close to your heart but on the verge of being overwhelmed by development or pollution, please respond to this post.  Ask your friends.  I'll add your suggestions to my list.  And perhaps I can follow up and write some stories that could shed some light on the problems.

Please be specific -- give the exact location of the natural area that you think deserves protection, and what makes it great.  Then let me know the specific projects or problems that could put an end to this beauty.

Here are a few ideas to start the list.  I'll revise it as suggestions flow in.

1) POCOMOKE RIVER CYPRESS SWAMP in Worcester County on Maryland's Eastern Shore. 

This is a rare and vanishing example of a haunting, Louisiana-style bayou in a Northern climate. The spooky-looking cypress trees, with their buttress-like, spreading root bases, are sometimes called the "wood eternal" because they can live for more than 1,000 years.  They form a vault over the peaceful Pocomoke as it wanders toward the Chesapeake Bay.

Developer Mark Odachowski is proposing to build 2,170 homes, a grocery store, movie theater, shops and a sewage plant near the river in a project that would triple the population of quiet and historic Snow Hill.  He has claimed all this construction will mean less pollution flowing into the Pocomoke than the nearby farmland today. But others see a massive suburban-style subdivision overwhelming a fragile and primitive landscape. 

2) GREEN RIDGE STATE FOREST in Allegany County.

About 1,000 acres near this hilly Western Maryland forest are targeted by a developer who wants to build a 4,300 home subdivision called Terrapin Run.  If the project moves ahead, Columbia-based PDC Inc. would, in one swoop, create a new city of 10,000 people. That would transform a mostly wooded area into the second largest town in Allegany County.  The developer has argued that the dense project is a good example "Smart Growth." But opponents call it a poster child for ugly sprawl in a scenic and rural area.

3) MATTAWOMAN CREEK in Charles County.

This Southern Maryland tributary to the Potomac River is one of the most productive breeding grounds for fish in the Chesapeake Bay watershed.  Its wetlands support Maryland's largest population of nesting wood ducks, as well as bald eagles, great blue herons, great egrets, osprey, beavers, mink, otter and a rare lotus plant, Nelumbo lutea.

But the amount of pollution flowing into the Mattawoman Creek is rising as fast-growing Charles County becomes an exurb of Washington.  County officials have targeted much of the creek's watershed as a high growth zone, which means an extra 50,000 people could pour into the delicate ecosystem by 2020.  The state temporarily slowed some of this growth in 1998, when former Gov. Parris Glendening helped approve the $25.3 million purchase of 2,225 acres to stop a giant riverfront development called Chapman's Landing.  But now other parts of the watershed are threatened by a highway project and roads bringing strip malls, subdivisions and litter. 

4) BLACKWATER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE on the Eastern Shore. 

 

This spectacular, primordial landscape of marshes, islands and sunken forests is slowly being swallowed by rising sea levels.  It could soon look like a vast open sea, instead of a winding maze of streams fringed by forests and grasslands.

The bald eagles and other animals that live here dodged a bullet last year, when former Gov. Robert Ehrlich announced the day before his re-election loss that the state would spend $10 million preserving 728 acres north of the refuge.  That meant a proposed $1 billion subdivision, called the Blackwater Resort, had be scaled back, shrinking to about 600 homes from the 3,200 originally proposed by developer Duane Zentgraf.  But that still means hundreds of homes will soon be built around the refuge's bucolic entrance.  And hundreds of more homes are popping up in cookie-cutter subdivisions just east of Zentgraf's land.

5) CHINCOTEAGUE BAY, off the Atlantic Ocean 

Just west of narrow, sandy Assateague Island -- fabled land of the pony Misty of Chincoteague -- is a long stretch of sheltered water called Chincoteague Bay.  Kayakers love its wild, untouched edges and its expanses of marsh grass.  Watermen still dredge for oysters here, and vacationers feel their stresses melt away just looking across the bay to the forested national seashore, dotted with wild horses.

But recently, macroalgae blooms have been tangling boat propellers and suffocating seagrass, depriving a home for young crabs and fish.  A suspected source is nitrogen fertilizer running off of poultry operations and grain farms in neighboring Worcester County.  And just across the state line, in Virginia, developer Robert E. Warfield is proposing to expand a waterfront subdivision called Captain's Cove by adding 4,800 homes and a sewage treatement plant that would dump 900,000 gallons of effluent a day into a tributary to Chincoteague Bay.

6) HOOPERS ISLAND, on the Eastern Shore. 

This toothpick of land dangling off the bottom lip of Dorchester County is an island of time as much as a peninsula in the Chesapeake Bay.  Driving down its one dead end road, you travel back decades to a time when watermen still made their living by hauling pots of crabs onto docks, and folks lived on the water because they needed a place to tie their workboat.  The long bridges provide spectacular views at sunset -- but be careful of the waves crashing across the roadways.

Talking to residents here, you'll hear stories about vanishing islands just off shore.  And then you'll understand why those waves nearly swept your car off the road.  Hoopers Island is rapidly being submerged by rising sea levels, caused by global warming and the melting of polar ice caused by greenhouse gases.  So in a sense, Hoopers Island is being destroyed by pollution -- carbon dioxide from our SUV's and power plants.  Development isn't a threat here.  Amazingly, there isn't a McDonalds or chain-owned business on the whole island.  That alone makes Hoopers Island an endangered species on the order of the Right Whale.  But that isolation could change if a rumored second span to the Bay Bridge is built from the Western Shore to Dorchester County just north of Hoopers Island.

7) ANTIETAM NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD, Washington County 

These 3,200 acres of preserved land northwest of Washington are haunted by the ghosts of the bloodiest battle in U.S. history.  The Antietam National Battlefield is considered an almost sacred site, because about 23,000 men were killed or wounded there during cataclysmic fighting between Union and Confederate forces in 1862.  Visitors can expore the rolling hills, walk down Bloody Lane and cross Burnside Bridge (pictured above).

But the northward march of stripmalls and cul-de-sacs from the DC suburbs is threatening a new assault on the area around Antietam.  A group called the Save Historic Antietam Foundation warns: "Rapid growth and development threatens the history and charm of the Antietam Valley."  Two years ago, the National Trust for Historic Preservation put the battlefields and other major Civil War sites along Route 15 from Pennsylvania to Virginia on the group's list of most endangered historic places.  Nearby, South Mountain Battlefield State Park, where 6,000 soldiers died, has little protection against development and almost no budget for maintenance.

8) THE CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, along the Potomac River

This 184 mile, scenic biking and hiking path trails an old canal that winds along beside the Potomac River from Washington to Cumberland, Md.  The C & O Canal park is a beautiful place to exercise, learn about the history of our nation's pre-railroad transportation system or photograph wildlife.

But The National Parks Conservation Association  calls it "An American Treasure in Peril."  The group warns that "this historic place faces many modern threats. Flooding..., invasive exotic species, rapid development of adjacent lands, utility rights of way, lack of funding, and staffing shortfalls all contribute to the decline in park resources." Moreover, the U.S. Park Service has approved plans by Georgetown and George Washington universities to build large boathouses on parkland within sight of the canal towpath. The association warns: "These plans threaten the integrity of the resources."

9) DOUGHOREGAN MANOR, Howard County

This National Historic Landmark was built in 1725 by the grandfather of Charles Carroll III, one of four patriots from Maryland who signed the Declaration of Independence. He was the only Roman Catholic signer of the document, and the wealthiest man in America at the time. His home -- and its hundreds of acres of surrounding grounds -- were frequently visted by John Hancock, George Washington, Samuel Adams and other founding fathers.

Earlier this year, an agreement that prohibited development on 892 acres of the estate expired.  To help pay for maintenance and taxes on the manor, Carroll's descendants are considering a proposal to build hundreds of homes, perhaps as a retirement community, on the eastern edge of the property.  A 1,200 acre section right around the mansion would remain in permanent preservation.  But an activist group called Preservation Howard County earlier this year named the property as the No. 1 "most endangered" historic property in the area because of the potential for large-scale construction, traffic and discruption.  It's the largest undeveloped tract of land in a county that's rapidly malling and sprawling. 

 ...........................

Readers, what should I add to this list?  Give me your thoughts. 
 

Comments

Add the view: looking over the Potomac River from St Ignatius Church on Chapel Point Road.

Mattawoman Creek in Charles County, Maryland

It's the most prolific spawning area for bass and other fish in the Chesapeake Bay watershed, and the CC commissioners are doing all they can to destroy it. It's like they don't give a damn about anything but develop, pave, and develop!

How about adding the Antietam National Battlefield? The protected 3,200+ acreage is just as it was in 1862.
National Geographic Magazine ranked Antietam as the number one National Battlefield in North America, and selected the park as 11th out of the 55 Destination National Parks examined and scored by 300 experts. The July/August 2005 issue of National Geographic Traveler said that Antietam “gets high marks for historical interpretation, management, and sense of place.” The “Destination Scorecard” article also mentioned local communities that “are special in their preservation efforts” (including Sharpsburg and Boonsboro). The Destination Scorecard ranked nearby Gettysburg National Military Park 23rd.
Also, how about Maryland's largest and most-visited national park, the C&O Canal National Historical Park...most of which is located in Washington County. The park has an incredible wild and remote character, and is a haven for bird-watching.

Please consider adding scenic Catoctin Mountain and the beautiful mountain parklands of Frederick County. These include the NPS operated Catoctin Mountain Park, and DNR's Cunningham Falls State Park and Gambrill State Park. In addition to being a great resource for Maryland's Native American inhabitants, Catoctin Mountain made an impression on early German and Swiss immigrants who were traveling west to the Shenandoah Valley from south central Pennsylvania in the early/mid 1700's. The mountain environment reminded many of them of their homeland. Frederick Town became a bustling community on the western frontier. To the north, Mechanicsville was an early German community and would be renamed Thurmont in the 1880's in tribute to its affiliation and pride as the "Gateway to the Mountains" (the name was suppose to reflect that fact to attract visitors from Baltimore, etc to the mountainside cottage resort). Unfortunately, heavy early industry tied to the Catoctin Furnace, tanning industry and lumber trade took its tool on Catoctin Mountain in this vicity, leaving a bare mountain of stumps by the early 20th century. Franklin D. Roosevelt's WPA and CCC Depression Era programs chose Catoctin Mountain (adjacent Thurmont)as a site for a Recreational Demonstrational Area, in which trees were replanted, trails were blazed and cabins/picnic facilities were constructed of downed trees. Upon completion, the camps of this area of Northern Frederick County were to be utilized for rest and recreation by special needs groups and also government employees. Ironically, the top government employee, FDR himself, would chose this area as his own retreat during WWII and renamed Camp Hi-Catoctin "Shangri-La." After Roosevelt's death, Harry Truman kept the northern portion of the RDA parkland for the federal government. This would eventually become Catoctin Mountain Park. President Eisenhower would rename the Presidential Retreat after his grandson...Camp David. To the south (across MD77) Maryland acquired the mountain property and named it Cunningham Falls State Park. Gambrill State Park has its beginnings when public-spirited conservationists of Frederick County purchased this tract of land on Catoctin Mountain and donated it to the City of Frederick to be used for a municipal mountain park. On September 7, 1934, the City presented the acreage to the State for use as a state park, which was later named to honor the late James H. Gambrill, Jr., a Frederick resident and leading advocate of the conservation of natural resources. Of course the threat to the mountain is the cutbacks in state/federal funding, coupled with urban sprawl encroachment. Proposed plans for residential communities and commercial usages along the Catoctin Mountain National Scenic Byway threaten age old viewsheds as profitable alternatives for mountain farmlands that have existed for a few centuries. The mountain in places could one day revert back to its desolate look back in the early 1900's, this time instead of a mountain of stumps, the proud face of Catoctin Mountain could be covered with Cookie-cutter houses and box stores.

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About Tim Wheeler
Tim WheelerI report on the environment and Chesapeake Bay. A native of West Virginia, I have focused mainly on Maryland's environment since moving here in 1983. Along the way, I've crewed aboard a skipjack in the bay, canoed under city streets up the Jones Fall from the Inner Harbor, and gone deep underground in a western Maryland coal mine. Recently, I have been covering the growth and development transforming the landscape. I love seafood, rambles in the country and good stories. I hope to share some here.
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