I met Bodhi in 2004, and he was well on his way to becoming famous even then. I was in western Maryland to do a travel story about a father-son fishing trip -- one that included some beginning instruction in fly-fishing at the Savage River Lodge.
We met the lodge owners' yellow, almost white, lab Bodhi -- whose name comes from the Buddhist term for "enlightened being" -- as soon as we checked in.
And we quickly learned this was no ordinary dog -- he had his own line of beer, dog biscuits, human candy, business cards and calendar. More important, he was a friendly and low-key sort who -- to dog lovers at least -- gave the lodge a homey feel.
Bodhi's book, a collection of 275 photographs by Maryland photographer Middleton Evans, published by Ravenwood Press, came out last year, and we feature it today because it's Bodhi's 13th birthday.
"He has slowed down due to arthritis in the legs, but his spirit is still bright and he's otherwise in good health," said Jan Russell, who owns and operates the lodge with her husband Mike Dreisbach.
While Bodhi's brew is no longer made, his 2008 calendar (the fifth) is out, and the lodge still features Bodhi's dog biscuits and "Bodhi Paws" (chocolate and caramel candy for humans).
Photographer Evans first met and bonded with the dog in 2000, when he stayed at the lodge while on assignment taking pictures for a trail guide. It was Dreisbach who saw the potential of teaming his ham of a dog up with the photographer. In 2004, they published their first Bodhi Lodge Dog calendar. The calendar, and relationship have continued since then.
"True to his name, Bodhi ... continues to 'enlighten' everyone he encounters at the Savage River Lodge and entertain them with his ready-for-the-camera antics," Evans wrote in a piece that appeared in the winter issue of Baltimore Dog Magazine. "Most likely, you'll find Bodhi hanging out on the front porch, greeting guests with a wag of the tail, and chasing that next photographic opportunity."
As for the story of my fishing trip with my son. The short version is we didn't catch anything -- at least not while fly-fishing. The long version is below.
FATHER-SON FLY FISHING (By John Woestendiek, Baltimore Sun, 2004)
First off, no, you are not trying to catch flies. They call it "fly-fishing" because you are using them for bait. Well, not real flies. They're little fake bugs that guys with patience and magnifying glasses sit around for hours making out of ... I'm not sure what. Thread or hair or something.
The CD player and cell phone were silent for the moment. Lunch was thawing out on the dashboard -- ham and cheese sandwiches I slapped together and froze the night before. Winding along a quiet mountain highway, it seemed the perfect time to explain the finer points of fly-fishing to my 12-year-old son.The fact that I don't know much about fly-fishing was not about to stop me.
For I am Dad.
Now, you don't cast like you do with a regular rod and reel. You use a long, skinny rod and you whip it back and forth in the air to let line out. Then you gently land the fly in the water. The fish -- trout, I think -- sees it, thinks it's a bug, and bites.
We were on our way to a lodge in Western Maryland -- not exclusively a fishing lodge, but, according to its owner, "about as close as you are going to come in this part of the country."
We have fished before, my son and I, in lakes and oceans and once on a "camping" trip where, after a rigorous day of catching no fish, we slept -- or tried to -- in the back of my pickup truck on a leaky air mattress. Neither of us, we learned then, excelled at fishing, roughing it or building campfires.
(This wood must be a little wet. Tear a few more pages out of the car owner's manual and maybe we can get it going.)
This trip, though, was a first, on two levels.
For one thing, we were going to try, after a lesson, to fly-fish -- fly-fishing being to regular fishing what Lenny Bruce is to Jerry Lewis, what brie is to Velveeta. It's thinking man's fishing. Fly fishermen pride themselves, sometimes to the point of snobbery, in matching wits with a fish and coming out on top.
For another thing, we were staying at a lodge, in a cabin, and, as if that weren't rugged and manly enough, Savage River Lodge -- 42 acres surrounded by state forest, with a river running through it and, should it warm up enough for them to come out of hibernation, bears traipsing around it.
"Does it have electricity?" my son asked. Yes.
"Does it have toilets?" Yes.
"Does it have TV?" No.
"Really?" Really.
"Will there be stuff to do?" Sure, lots of stuff.
"Like what?"
As usual, Joe had a million questions, and I had about four answers -- fewer yet when it came to fly-fishing.
Ten years have passed since I read A River Runs Through It, Norman Maclean's timeless fly-fishing memoir, and the only time I fly-fished was 35 years ago, when my father, who had never fly-fished, signed us up for a lesson during a Rocky Mountain vacation.
We caught no fish, and at 15 -- while I deemed it preferable to the stomach-emptying deep-sea fishing "adventure" my father had taken me on earlier -- I failed to develop an appreciation for fly-fishing. It seemed like an awful lot of motion with very few results.
Perhaps now, I realized as we snaked through the mountains of Garrett County, frozen ham sandwiches sliding to and fro on the dashboard, I was destined to repeat my father's mistakes. Perhaps I was about to force fly-fishing on one too young to appreciate it. Perhaps, too, I was overcompensating for being a long-distance Dad, trying to, all at once, thrill my son, bond with him and instill some good old-fashioned values.
Fishing is just one of those things, like throwing a baseball, that dads and sons are supposed to do. George H.W. Bush took George W. Andy took Opie. I don't know about the Bushes, but Andy did some of his best parenting at the fishing hole, always returning with a full string of fish to boot.
Meeting the river
On first impression, the Savage River does not look savage at all -- not even slightly rowdy.
Crossing the small bridge over it on the way to the lodge, we looked down to see a gently flowing stream.
As it turns out, the Savage River, while it roars wildly in places, most likely is not named for its fury, for the Indians who once occupied these parts or for the fierce winter winds that whip through the area.
Most locals believe it was named after John Savage, a surveyor who -- long before the invention of cell phones and individually wrapped cheese slices -- came close to being the catch of the day.
Stranded in 1736 at the confluence of what are now known as the Potomac and Savage rivers, the starving crew of which he was part (apparently unable to survive on their fishing skills) made a desperate decision: to eat the "most useless person among them," Virginia land commissioner William Byrd later wrote.
Ailing and going blind, Savage either volunteered or was chosen -- accounts vary -- and he was spared only when a rescue party showed up at the last minute. As the story goes, the river and mountains were named after him as a tribute to the sacrifice he almost made.
Unlike Savage's party, we used Mapquest, and we easily found our destination, less than three hours from Baltimore. Up the forest-lined driveway, still surrounded by melting April snow, we spotted the lodge -- a 10,000-square-foot structure, all dark wood, stone and glass, with a canoe hanging from the rafters on the porch.
The first to greet us was Bodhi, the lodge dog.
Bodhi, a white lab whose name comes from the Buddhist term for "enlightened being," belongs to the lodge's owners, and is its official mascot. He has his own calendar (a different photo of him every month), his own business card, his own dog biscuits (prepared at the lodge and made available to visiting canines), and his own beer (one of the lodge's two microbrews is named after him).
On Saturdays, he hosts "Yappy Hour," during which visiting pets may enjoy biscuits, water and running around his pen.
Keys in hand (attached to a flashlight to help navigate the woods at night), we headed to our cabin, just up the hill from the lodge -- one of 18 nestled on a wooded ridge.
What we walked into was my dream house: Wood, wood and more wood. Far from a bare-bones fishing lodge, it was loaded with luxuries and rustic charm.
Downstairs is one large room, carpeted, with ceiling fans and a gas-burning wood stove that is controlled with a thermostat. The furniture is tasteful, overstuffed and nearly new. The sofa opens up into a queen-sized bed. While there is no kitchen, there is a small, hidden refrigerator and a "warm beverage center" featuring a coffee maker, electric teakettle and a selection of teas and hot chocolate.
Thick slabs of wood and wrought iron form the stairway to a loft above, where the down-comforter-covered bed is so fluffy and inviting it almost makes you wish for a rainy day.
As I admire the bed in the loft, Joe puts in his dibs -- and I take the sleeper sofa, which has the advantage of being closer to the fireplace.
Outdoor activities Downstairs, a fishing creel hanging from the wall is stuffed with literature about nearby attractions -- they include Deep Creek Lake and Fallingwater, the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house in Pennsylvania -- and things to do at the lodge: cross-country skiing and snowshoeing (the most popular activities), canoeing and kayaking, ramp and morel hunts, cooking lessons and wine tastings. The lodge can also arrange whitewater rafting, horseback riding and hunting trips.
The fishing was something of an afterthought for the lodge. By catering to anglers -- both fly-fishing veterans and newcomers to the sport -- the lodge found it could avoid what would otherwise be a post-winter lull.
"Fly-fishing is more popular in the West," said Mike Dreisbach, an avid fly fisherman and co-owner of the lodge. "Around here, there's a limited population of people who want to do it. But we're real aggressively going after them."
In that regard, Savage River Lodge is not alone. More ski resorts, bed-and-breakfasts and country inns are contracting with outfitters and guides in hopes of drawing anglers to their properties.
With a recent resurgence of interest nationwide, the Recreational Boating and Fishing Foundation says fishing is now more popular than golf and tennis combined.
"Recent shifts in American values have solidified its position as the country's favorite recreational pastime," said Bruce Matthews, foundation president. "There's simply no better way to connect with family, friends and the natural world than spending time on the water."
While growing more popular, fishing has gone more upscale, particularly fly-fishing. Some resorts that cater to anglers now offer golf, massages, facials, even afternoon tea.
Savage River Lodge hasn't gone that far yet, though massages can be arranged.
The lodge is owned by Dreisbach and his wife, Jan Russell, who met at a business seminar in 1990. He was a labor mediator. She managed spas and resorts. After they married, they decided to open their own retreat and began scouting locations.
They bought a 42-acre piece of land surrounded by a 700-acre section of Savage River State Forest.
Eight years later, in 2000, they opened the lodge -- less than four miles from Interstate 68, but seemingly in the middle of the wilderness.
"Some guests come up the driveway looking for the guy playing banjo in Deliverance," Dreisbach said, "but then they are pleasantly surprised."
The chef at the lodge's gourmet restaurant was trained at the Culinary Institute of America. The lodge has been recognized by international travel guides, and last year won an award of excellence from Wine Spectator magazine.
The centerpiece of the lodge is a huge, two-side fieldstone fireplace, and after strolling the wraparound porch, watching deer graze and checking out the bar (S'moretini's anyone?), Joe and I settled down in front of the fireplace for a chess game. Then another and another.
After dinner, we didn't last long. Whether it was the mountain air, the big meal or just the cozy comfort of the cabin, Joe fell asleep almost as soon as his head hit the overstuffed pillow. I wasn't far behind.
The art of fly-fishing
In keeping with the lodge's casual attitude, we were late to our fly-fishing lesson with Dreisbach, who sat at a table in the lodge conference room with an array of what appeared to be bread crumbs spread out before him.
Putting on my glasses, I saw they were flies, handcrafted (most often out of deer, elk or antelope hair) by someone with nimble fingers, sharp eyesight and a lot of patience.
Patience, Dreisbach said, is one of the keys to fly-fishing.
"Fishing requires patience, but fly-fishing takes a different kind of patience. You've got to learn how to read the river. You've got to know something about the fish world, the bug world, the river world. It takes an active patience versus more of a brain-dead patience."
While not a fly-fishing snob, he admits there are those who look down on their bait fishing counterparts, calling them "worm-draggers."
Dreisbach briefed us on types of flies -- dry ones and wet ones -- and talked about the importance of "reading the river" -- not just what's going on below and on the surface of the water, but what bugs are present, and what stages of life they are in.
Dreisbach is one of several certified fly-fishing teachers at the lodge, which has its own fly-fishing shop and offers one- and two-day clinics. It also offers guide service, wading and float trips.
After about 30 minutes of classroom instruction, Dreisbach -- warning us not to get our hopes up -- suggested we head to the river. "Most people, the first time they go, it's tough to catch fish," he said.
Near his bridge over the Savage River, he rigged two rods with everything but the flies. Then we followed him -- not to the river, but to an open pasture nearby.
There, he showed us how to cast, using a motion he says is not unlike the "tomahawk chop" Atlanta Braves baseball fans use to cheer on their team.
By moving your arm back and forth -- from the 2 o'clock to 10 o'clock position -- and incorporating some wrist action, one should be able to release plenty of line before dropping the fly into the water, or in this case into the grass.
"You want to make a good presentation," he said. "You want to put it right where you think that fish is looking, right where he'll see it floating down the river."
The trick is in hesitating for a split second on your backswing -- to allow the line to fly all the way back -- before beginning the forward motion. "If you hear a whipping sound, you're not doing it right," he said.
We weren't just hearing a whipping sound, we were whipping ourselves in the cheek with our lines, which, even without the hooks in place, wasn't a pleasant feeling.
For about 30 minutes, that's all we did -- cast in the pasture, as our tutor suggested refinements aimed at keeping our lines, upon presentation, from piling up in circles on the ground like so much spilled spaghetti.
Finally, Dreisbach walked to the river and along the bank. He was reading it. And what the river seemed to be saying was "No fish today."
With the river still too cold to wade in, he cast from the bank, his line extending farther over the river with each motion, the fly coming close to the water but not hitting it until he softly landed it there.
He tried several times, but the only action in the river were the splashes resulting from my son throwing rocks -- not exactly conducive to catching fish, Dreisbach explained to him.
After about five minutes, Dreisbach packed it in, but said we were welcome to keep practicing our casting.
I'd whipped my arm back and forth enough for one day, and between that and a 2.5-mile nature hike in the morning, I was ready to call it a day and head for the cabin's oversized bathtub.
Dreisbach had recommended the hike, saying it's always smart, especially with children, to plan another activity in case the fish aren't biting.
Nature hike
Ron Boyer and Liz McDowell, a husband and wife who run Elk Ridge NatureWorks, led the tour, pointing out lichens and mosses and ferns, holes left in a fallen pignut hickory tree by yellow-bellied sapsuckers, wildlife tracks and droppings, a beaver dam and a salamander in Mud Lick Creek. Tree frogs, while heard, were not spotted. No bears showed up, but we did see the gnawed stump of a tree, felled by a beaver.
A couple of times during the trek, Joe took issue with their fungi identification, citing as his source The Great Mushroom Encyclopedia.
"It has every single type of fungus known to man," he told the nature experts.
But, as it turned out, some fungi -- like fish -- are known by more than one name, and in the end Joe pronounced the hike cool, especially the dead man's fingers, a fungus protruding eerily out of the soil at the base of a tree.
At the end of the hike, McDowell promised to e-mail photos and a list of all the species encountered to the hikers, who included two other lodge guests -- a pair of sisters who came to get away from it all.
"I like places that don't have too much glitz," said Kathy Heefner, a teacher from Annapolis. "We just wanted to get away -- no TV, no phones, just time to read and hike and shift to low gear. It helps you reconnect with the important things and remind yourself that, you know what, you don't have to move this fast."
More casting
On our second morning, we woke as we did on the first -- to the sounds of woodpeckers banging on treetops. We ate our breakfast -- muffins and a mason jar of orange juice, delivered in a basket left at the front door.
In no hurry to leave, I sat in a rocking chair on the porch, reading through the guest book, as Joe shot his bow and arrow behind the cabin.
"A beautiful setting to look back on time spent together and to create new memories," wrote a couple celebrating their 23rd wedding anniversary.
"What a place to be in love," read another. "Mountain air, incredible sunset over the mountain ... many walks in the woods (one with a bottle of wine and a blanket), breakfast in bed, bubble baths by candlelight. ... Put us down as same time next year."
After checking out and bidding Bodhi farewell, we decided to drive south along the river -- a route recommended by Dreisbach with plenty of views and fishing opportunities.
It wasn't the direction home, but -- considering we were on a three-day fishing trip and hadn't fished yet -- we decided we should try our hand at dragging some worms.
Along the river, signs stipulated what kind of fishing is allowed: There were "catch and return" areas, "trophy trout" areas, "delayed harvest" areas and "put and take" areas -- each with different rules on whether you can keep fish, and the type of bait you can use. Next time, I thought to myself, I'll bring a lawyer along.
A few miles down the road, though, we came upon BJ's, a country store that sells fishing gear and licenses. We snagged some snacks and a moment of Jim Minogur's time.
Standing behind the cash register, Minogur simplified things for us, telling us where we were -- in the 5-mile-long stretch of river north of Savage Creek Reservoir -- that bait fishing is permitted, and that you could keep what you caught.
He sold me some hooks, worms and a fishing license ($10.50, plus $5 more for a trout stamp; children under 16 don't need them) and suggested we fish the "holes," pockets of nearly still water, and recommended we cut the worms in half before putting them on the hook. Joe said he wouldn't be doing either, and he urged Minogur to put the worms in a separate bag from the Twizzlers.
Down the road, we pulled over along the river and, after about 30 minutes of unknotting fishing line, I managed to get my two old rods and reels working.
Though worm-averse, Joe is an excellent caster, and he had learned a lesson from the day before. Not a single rock was tossed in the water.
Within 20 minutes, I felt a tug. Reeling in, I noticed that the resistance stopped, and I figured I was caught in the rocks. Then came another tug, and another, powerful enough to turn my flimsy rod into an arc.
I reeled in a handsome trout -- a native brook trout, maybe 14 inches long. Possibly closer to 10; OK, let's say about eight. My son held the rod -- careful to keep his distance from the fish -- while I ran for the camera.
Five minutes after I returned the first fish to the water, I had a second one on my line, a rainbow trout. I handed my rod to my son and he reeled it in while I went back for the camera.
This was a new record for us: two fish. I was dying for him to catch one, but after another 30 minutes, it seemed our good fortune had ended.
Waiting vainly for a bite, I sensed his disappointment growing, and it occurred to me I should be saying something reassuring. As we packed up, I wondered: What would Andy say?
Andy would have caught a whole slew of fish by now, while simultaneously solving several of his son's and Mayberry's problems.
This is the best I could come up with, unoriginal as it is: If you always caught fish, they wouldn't call it fishing. They'd call it catching.
So Joe caught no fish. So we didn't get to fly-fish. So we didn't see bears. So I had worm juice on my hand.
On the other hand, the cabin was perfect, the weather warmed up, we saw a salamander and a beaver-gnawed tree, I slept like I was floating on clouds. Better yet, no one was injured, nauseated or being deemed useless and nominated for lunch.
Joe and I had some time together. It took some twists and turns, with fast segments and slow ones, clear parts and murky ones, exciting stretches and placid ones. That is life, that is the river -- so perfectly imperfect. The trick is to go with the flow.
Of course, I didn't say any of that. It just went through my head, as did the thought that I should give my father a call.