Spaghetti Squash Pancakes

Serves 4

one 3-pound spaghetti squash (yields 2 packed cups)

1 cup minced onion

1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour or rice flour

1/2 teaspoon salt (scant measure)

4 large eggs

Nonstick spray for the pan

A little unsalted butter for the pan (optional)

Optional toppings:

Sour cream or yogurt

Minced parsley

Your choice of vegetable jam

Well ahead of when you want to make the pancakes, prepare the squash:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, and scrape out the seeds. Bake the halves face down on a lightly oiled tray for about 30 minutes, or until the skin can be just barely pierced with a fork. (It should be tender, but no too soft.) Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. Scoop out the flesh, place it in a strainer, and squeeze out enough of the juices to reduce its final volume to 2 packed cups. Refrigerate.

When you're ready to make the pancakes, place the cooked squash in a medium bowl and separate the strands by combing through them with a fork. Continue to use the fork to mix in the onion, flour and salt, and then to beat in the eggs.

Place a skillet or griddle over medium heat. After a minute or two, spray it lightly with nonstick spray, and if you like, melt in a little butter for richer flavor. When the cooking surface is hot enough to sizzle a bread crumb, use a 1/4-cup measure with a handle to scoop batter into the hot pan.

Cook the pancakes for a good 8 to 10 minutes on each side until truly golden. (Unlike cakier pancakes, which toughen when turned repeatedly from side to side, these can be turned more than once, if necessary, without compromising their texture.) Get them really well done on the outside, and you will have a chewy-crisp result. Serve hot or warm, plain or with toppings.