Anthony Bourdain takes a TV bite of Baltimore
Anthony Bourdain's Emmy-nominated No Reservations cable TV show features Baltimore Monday night at 10 on the Travel Channel.
Before you get too excited about that, though, you should consider the context in which Baltimore eateries are being presented to a national and global audience. The title of the episode is "Rust Belt" and along with the magical cities of Buffalo and Detroit, Baltimore is described on the show's website as the "heart of the Rust Belt."
You should also be warned that it appears Bourdain and his producers view Baltimore mostly through the prism of HBO's The Wire -- with all too familiar images of boarded-up rowhouses in the background of promotional shots and Bourdain visiting the favorite eating spots of actress Felicia "Snoop" Pearson and actor Jay Landsman. The episode features Bourdain dining at The Roost, Mo's Seafood and Chap's Pit Beef.
Here's the online set-up for tonight: "In the bleak, cold winter, Tony meets up with his good friend Zamir, and they travel to the heart of America's Rust Belt with stops in Baltimore, Detroit and Buffalo."
After "visiting the misunderstood region," the online episode description says, Tony and Zamir come to understand that "it's not just about aging factories and cold weather, but it's also full of kind people and delicious food."
Beyond the patronizing tone, whether or not anyone at the Travel Channel cares about presenting a representative and accurate sense of Baltimore, it should be noted that the weather here is considerably warmer than it is in Buffalo and Detoit, two of the colder cities in the country. And this is a show that has just been nominated for Best Non-Fiction Program.
Here's the desription of the visit to The Roost: "Tony and Zamir enjoy one of Baltimore's specialties, lake trout. But there's a catch -- it's not trout and it's not from a lake."
On the promotional video trailer of their visit to The Roost, Bourdain orders a tray of food worth $7.95. Food at The Roost is described as: "tasty... and cheap... a meal for increasingly hard times."
As for Mo's Seafood: Tony eats here with Felicia 'Snoop' Pearson from The Wire. This is one of her favorite restaurants.
Chap's Pit Beef: Tony eats pit beef with The Wire's Jay Landsman.






Comments
Hi Z,
Baltimore is not the heart of the Rustbelt is it? I guess I did not know it was included in that. Wow if they think Balitmore is cold they should visit the upper part of Wisconsin, a good friend of our lives there and that is cold in the winter. Sounds like it is not a very good representative of Baltimore to me. The clip was um - interesting? Why didn't they take a little more time interviewing some of the people eating there if they want to get a real feel for the food etc.?
Have a great day! Did you get worn out over the weekend like we did? Frankly, I'm exhausted and its time to start another week.
Yes, worn out and exhauisted. Back now and better. I never thought of Baltimore as heart of Rust Belt, and I lived and worked in Detroit in the 1970s and '80s. I'm from Wisconsin, and yes, that is cold. Not Baltimore. Z
Posted by: Sherry T. | July 27, 2009 8:32 AM
I'm sooooo watching. I love Bourdain. I can't wait to hear his take on Baltimore.
Posted by: Jill | July 27, 2009 8:36 AM
Z,
Hello, I'm a huge fan of No Reservations, but both the preview I watched as well as your description don't make me feel too excited about this episode.
Some of his seemingly surface-skimming approach might run a little deeper for Mr. Bourdain. I read his fantastic memoir, Kitchen Confidential. In the book, he describes working for a crooked businessman who sent him to Baltimore in the early 80s to work in a new restaurant in the Inner Harbor. He had nothing glowing to report about one-diemnsionalBaltimore at that time in his life. With that in mind, I suppose I didn't expect a really glowing expose about Charm City on his show.
I'll cut them some slack, though, because of how entertaining his program has been over the years.
Hi Joel, That is a diasappointment: That such a generally respected show did what looks to be such a one-dimensionall job -- and was so totally influenced by a fictional TV drama in its sense of Baltimore. I'm not saying this is a false Baltimore. The Baltimore shown here does exist. And good for the restaurants featured -- I hope it helps them do more business, especially in this economy. But, as I said, the "heart of the Rust Belt" context is troubling and, I think, off the mark. Thanks. Z
Posted by: Joel | July 27, 2009 9:23 AM
Is there a right or wrong way to represent Baltimore? Do we comment on the way the Food Network highlights Baltimore's Ace of Cakes or Cake Love? No. Why? Because that's the Baltimore that nuevo Baltimoreans want the world to see...hoity toity, rich, and superficial. Thank God Tony doesn't fall into the trap of visiting places that are "safe". I like the fact that he feels comfortable enough to hang with folks who represent the REAL Baltimore.
I often comment on the way Baltimore is depicted on TV. In fact, I almost always do. But what makes one Baltimore the "real" Baltimore? Isn't the BMA a real place? How about Johns Hopkins, the hospital and the university? How about Little Italy or Fells Point -- all "real" as well. Thanks. Z
Posted by: Brian | July 27, 2009 9:33 AM
Z, sounds like you made it through the weekend - that's good. Glad your back! Rustbelt is because of the steel industry right? We love Wisconsin, we have made two trips there with our girls in the last couple of years and got to go sailing, it was great. We would like to live there really. You don't have to post this - it was good to hear from you. Have to make the long trip to McConnelsville today this afternoon for orthodontics, a lot of winding corn fields and rivers.
Posted by: Sherry T. | July 27, 2009 9:46 AM
Weird. Bourdain is from NYC and he considers Baltimore cold? Having lived up there for several years I can honestly say the weather up there is way colder. Way more snow and freezing temps in the winter. I found the winters up there plain miserable.
It sounds to me as if he's eating at the worst places in the city. Too bad.
Posted by: Nikki | July 27, 2009 9:56 AM
Sounds like the "No Reservations" folks don't know much about Baltimore, or the Rust Belt. I guess Pittsburgh, a classic Rust Belt city, has reinvented itself too successfully to qualify for a condescending episode like this. Sigh.
Posted by: Shawn | July 27, 2009 10:06 AM
I usually enjoy No Reservations, but when I heard he came to Baltimore to film for a third of an episode, and that he went to *Mo's Crab and Pasta Factory,* I was immediately disappointed. Of all the great places in Baltimore to eat and discover, I'm intensely disappointed that he and the Travel Channel resorted to such a limited view. I don't even think I'm going to bother to watch.
Posted by: maryann | July 27, 2009 10:10 AM
It's debatable if Baltimore is in the "rust belt" at all, let alone in the "heart" of it. While Charm City may share some of the same rusting factories as the Upper Midwest/Great Lakes Region, it's not there, making the "belt" part pretty ridiculous. (Does anyone call any place with born-again churches as being in the "bible belt?" I don't think so!)
Really, if the producers of No Reservations wanted a trio of cities, why not Buffalo, Detroit, and Pittsburgh, or Cleveland, or Bethlehem, PA?
Baltimore has such unique and wonderful food that it deserves its own episode, but the producers of No Reservations probably don't see the drama in that.
Hi, I agree. I grew up in Milwaukee and spent seven years in Detroit. To me, this is not the "heart" of the Rust Belt either. If we're the heart, what is south of us? Washington? Is that part of it, too? How about Richmond? I agree. Z
Posted by: baltoellen | July 27, 2009 10:38 AM
Having lived in both the Great Lakes region and here in Maryland, there are huge differences between the two places in so many ways including weather and food. Both have their charms, but to say Baltimore is in the heart of the rust belt is just inaccurate. And the Chesapeake Bay adds a dimension to Baltimore food just as whitefish and trout add to the Great Lakes area. They're all wonderful -- but entirely different. Shame on them for misleading people.
Hi Izzy, Thanks so much for saying this so well. I, too, am from the Great Lakes region. Z
Posted by: Izzy | July 27, 2009 11:03 AM
"Rust Belt?" Geez. A friend in Mexico sent me the Roost clip--she loves Bourdain. I enjoyed "Kitchen Confidential," but now he seems more of a one-trick pony.
Posted by: Shannon | July 27, 2009 11:21 AM
There are some things all of these cities have in common, but rust isn't one of them. I agree with those who feel that the producers of No Reservations have formed an opinion of Baltimore from watching The Wire. The fact that we are being represented in this way lessens my respect for the credibility of No Reservations.
Posted by: Bill | July 27, 2009 2:57 PM
I met Bourdain in the train station that day (by met I mean I accosted him & fumbled with my cell phone camera - he was pretty gracious, considering), and it wasn't particularly cold or bleak that day - I seem to recall the sun was out. Or maybe it was just his glowing visage that gave me that impression.
Baltimore is barely in the Rust Belt. Sometimes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_belt#Geographic_definition
"Other cities such as Baltimore, Maryland, and Wilmington, Delaware which share important economic characteristics are sometimes included."
Hi, Thanks. Do you remember when he was here -- what month? Thanks. Z
Posted by: sean | July 27, 2009 3:05 PM
I don't like the rust belt reference but if you look at the numbers, it does ring true.
Western Electric - 10,000 - now gone;
General Motors - over 10,000 - now gone
Beth Steel - 35,000 - now less than 3000;
Black & Decker - 5000 - now a couple of hundred;
Armco Steel - 3000 - gone;
Esso refinery - 1500 - gone;
Md Shipbuilding - 1500 - gone;
American, Continental, Crown can companies - 2500 - gone
And many more - these numbers from the - from the early 70's
Posted by: edg | July 27, 2009 3:37 PM
I lived in the epicenter of the Rust Belt.
Youngstown, Ohio.
Early 90's.
Rats the size of small children.
Potholes the size of houses.
Gray skies 15 weekends in a row, yes, I counted.
Loved the people. Loved the melting pot.
As time wore on, I even loved hating the rust.
Now back in my native Texas, where I no longer have to count sad gray skies, I have only fond memories of time spent in the Rust Belt. But as an OUTSIDER, I will tell you, when I think of Baltimore, I do think it's pretty easy to lump it in the pile of Rusty cities.
Sorry!
Thanks for the testimony and the poetry. I mean that about the poetry. You communicated something to me about Youngstown with your imagery. Thanks. Z
Posted by: Katie | July 27, 2009 8:15 PM
Do you remember when he was here -- what month?
Yup, it was January.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10790808@N08/3196872676/
Hi Sean, Thanks for the info and link. Z
Posted by: sean | July 27, 2009 9:07 PM
i think the producers confuse "rust belt" with "cities with a lot of black people"
as a baltimore native the things that make this city and its cuisine interesting to me are the fusions of different cultures and values represented in dishes like one world cafe's vegan crabcakes or rocket to venus' kimchi pierogis. and how many cities in the rust belt have papusa delivery services? ignoring baltimore's diversity in favor of dishing out what people expect to see is so typical and cheap. way to go travel channel!
Thank you, Michael. That's what I hated about the show: It ignored the true diversity of Baltimore to try and find a narrow slice that matched up with a fictional TV Show. Z
Posted by: michael | July 27, 2009 10:06 PM
YO TONY I'M FROM BALMER...S---- YOU!!!
Hey Tim, I'm sorry, I had to do a little editing here. not that what you said isn't said in lots of places by lots of people every day. But in editing, I have learned to err on the side of caution. But I totally understand the sentiment. I have a second post up that I wrote after the show Monday night. Please check it out. I think you will enjoy it. Z
Posted by: TIM | July 27, 2009 11:01 PM
I'm a foreigner who's lived in Baltimore for a 8 years now. I've travelled alot and I've lived in other cities within the US. My comment partains to comments here...while its true that Baltimore has several sides the side presented is a big part of Baltimore and I think that many people here are worried about a 'certain image'. Bourdain is a guy who likes hole in the wall type places and places that regular natives would go to. The people presented on the show have generations of family here and these are the places they consider a lot of 'regular people' they know to like. So, point out what you'd have liked to see not why somebody elses doesn't "reflect" Baltimore.
Posted by: judith | July 27, 2009 11:17 PM
Hey Z,
I agree that Bourdain's view was a bit off... but it wasn't quite as negative as I expected it to be based on your preview. I don't know that he sold us short so much as just mis-sold us. He clearly just doesn't get us.
He clears some things up on his blog (admitting to his bias from his earlier experiences)... but what he still gets wrong is thinking we practically want to disown The Wire and John Waters...
Posted by: Dan | July 27, 2009 11:41 PM
I loved Katie's poem, and I laughed so hard!. I have been to Youngstown, it is a lot like Mansfield, Ohio, I think the two would be a perfect comparison. I'll bet you are thanking your lucky stars you are back in the Lone Star state.
Posted by: Sherry T. | July 28, 2009 1:12 AM
I liked Bourdain's show and have been to B-more many time since moving to MD 15 years ago. Most food critics are far to willing to review resturants that are over priced and out of reach of most food lovers. Baltimore has improved tremedously in the past decade put it is shell of its former self and the show highlight so of the success stories and also pointed out what everyone that lives in MD says to themselves. Baltimore is great town and has alot to offer it just needs sometime and more help from the state to improve the inner city which has been ignored for the past two decades. Bourdain mentions this situation when they were at the Chap's and with Snoop. The Travel Channel has done other shows on B-more and I think this one was pretty good anyone can take a tour of Canton, Fells Point or the Inner Harbor.
Posted by: Anthony | July 28, 2009 3:46 AM
Rustbelt, maybe. One thing for sure though, Bmore is a dump. I live here, and hate it. I'm even beginning to hate all things Bmore, like O's or Poe. Lake trout? What a joke. Bourdain lost his mind.
Posted by: oz | July 28, 2009 3:50 AM
In case you missed the show, as I did, it's on again:
July 30th 11pm ET and
Aug 3rd 11am & 7pm ET
Posted by: Brian Meagher | July 28, 2009 7:19 AM
I grew up in Ohio and lived in Detroit for two years and Baltimore for 10+. Maybe rust belt is not the best way to describe Bmore but it is definitely a blue collar town. Except all the manufacturing has left hence lumping it in with 'rust belt'. Baltimore is like 75% African American hence lake trout was spot on. Sorry if some people did not like how the city was potrayed but it is what it is. The problem is Baltimore is trying to be something it is not.
Posted by: ASH | July 28, 2009 7:51 AM
I have lived in Baltimore my whole life with the exception of living in Texas for a couple years. I have never had lake trout so I find it weird that is what we are known for. I thought crabcakes and steamed crabs was what we are known for. I have never seen the show but fell upon this blog and found it interesting. Where did he go too? Cumberland?
I thought crabcakes, too. Maybe not in Cumberland, though. (Ha) Thanks. Z
Posted by: clbaltimore | July 29, 2009 3:23 PM
He saw what he wanted to see. Remember writing college papers? First you come up with the thesis, then you find the proof that suits it.
But then, don't we all see in Baltimore only what we want to see?
Posted by: OM | July 29, 2009 11:32 PM
I have been a devoted fan of the show from the beginning of its run on the Travel Channel. I haven't caught the episode but just the description is a complete disappointment. I've always hoped that he would pay a visit to the Chesapeake Bay region or something like that. Å celebration of seafood and port city culture, maybe even a little historical perspective. While this is certainly a side of Baltimore, and more or less admissible to the program, Baltimore is not in the rust belt. If/when our city made it into the program, I was hoping the inclusion would be more than a lazy afterthought paying homage to a television show.
Posted by: bryan | July 30, 2009 2:23 PM