When Natty Boh and National Premium ruled this town.
Today about 33 fellows who used to work at the old National Brewing Company on Dillon Street in East Baltimore are getting together for lunch at Casey's Bar and Restaurant on Joppa Road in Parkville.
Bill Costello, who was in the brewery's advertising department from 1964-1974, told me these National reunions are "sporadic, when somebody decides we should do it."
The agenda for today's gathering is eating lunch, telling stories, and maybe drinking a few beers, Costello said. I asked what kind of beer the former Natty Boh salesmen were going to drink, and Costello replied, "Take a guess."
At my urging, Costello talked about the "good old days" in the 1950s and 1960s when National, makers of National Bohemian and National Premium beers ruled this market.
"We had a 58 percent of the Maryland beer market," Costello said. "Yes, we worked hard and long brewing and selling beers. But each day was fun. Many of the guys swear "it was family" because that is way we were treated by (owner) Jerry Hoffberger."
Hoffberger also owned the Orioles and brewery employees were regulary given free seats and parking to the Oriole game, Costello said.
Moreover, the link between working in sports and working at the brewery was strong.
Costello was a former sports reporter for The Evening Sun and was hired to work for National by Frank Cashen. Cashen, an excutive with the brewery was also the Orioles executive vice president and general manager during a 10-year stint with the club beginning in 1965. Costello knew Cashen from days gone by when they were fellow patrons of Jerry's Belvedere Tavern on York Road. Cashen convinced him to "come home," Costello said, with the promise of free beer.
"When first I came to Baltimore in 1943 there were five breweries, Arrow, Free State, Gunther, American and National," Costello said.
"That is all the neighbor bars carried, local beers. Drafts were 10 cents; if you tried to charge 15 cents, they would tell you were to put it," Costello said.
I am not crazy about National Bohemian, but I did like National Premium, a fine, malty brew.
Anybody else recall these beers and the good old days?
Comments
Rob, PLEASE "decide" for them that they should have a reunion during Baltimore Beer Week--maybe at the plant itself!
Posted by: Alexander D. Mitchell IV | May 14, 2009 7:02 AM
Might be interesting to to save the recipes for these beers. Any of the guys in the brewing department have notes on the grain bill, hop schedule and yeast? The Premium sounds like it could be a wonderful beer for the homebrewer to play with.
Posted by: First Stater | May 14, 2009 7:12 AM
I have heard that Clipper City's McHenry tastes very similar to National Premium. (I wouldn't know, too young to have tried it.) Interestingly, the McHenry bottle states it's an "Old Baltimore Style Beer," and the website says they researched brewing archives and patterned the beer after one produced in the 40s.
Posted by: J | May 14, 2009 9:19 AM
In the early 2000s, the former Frederick Brewing Company secured the rights to the National Premium brand and even brewed a few batches.
(Yes, Tom, I have a can of national premium in my basement "vault." Sadly that operation went bankrupt shortly after putting out the National cans. Rob )
Posted by: Thomas Cizauskas | May 14, 2009 9:36 AM
McHenry tastes like National Premium.Had it with steamed crabs last summer.
Posted by: Pilsman | May 14, 2009 10:56 AM
National Premium, the “True Pilsener” as it was advertised in the ‘40’s, was the first beer I legally purchased. I recall paying from $6.99 - $7.49 per case in the mid-1970’s. Mr. Pilsener, Mr. Boh’s monocled, European counterpart, offered up a perfect brew, with just a touch of sweet maltiness balanced by the hoppiness characteristic of a “true pilsener.” When National announced its closing, it seems I visited every beer and liquor store in Baltimore, buying up their last few remaining cases. I scrounged up seven cases as that’s all my beer fridge could hold, along with my other stock. I still have 2 cans left in the beer cave, awaiting that VERY special occasion.
Premium seemed to have the same cachet during its earlier years as Coors did back in the Smokey and the Bandit days. Premium was first introduced in 1936 and references to product “scarcity” were frequently used in National’s print advertising and signage in the late ‘30’s and ‘40’s. “Not how much can we brew, but how well” was a slogan used to capitalize on this "exclusivity."
As to McHenry being a close substitute? Believe me, there is no comparison. And I don’t want to use my remaining stock in a side-by-side taste test! And who knows how the years may have deteriorated the true flavor of the stored beer? But McHenry seems to lack that element of maltiness I recall with Premium. I, too, was looking forward to Frederick’s attempt to revive the brand. I even remember the brewery offering a sample to then-Governor Schaefer at an introductory tasting session. Unfortunately, a worthy local replacement has yet to be brewed.
Posted by: Mark D. | May 14, 2009 7:55 PM
National Premium was so good, I had cases shipped to me when I was on location in Europe!
Posted by: Robert Horton | May 15, 2009 12:17 AM
"Mind if I pinch one, mate?"
Posted by: Robert Horton's Baggage Handler in London | May 15, 2009 11:39 AM
Although I think I was weened on Natty Boh, Natty Premium was in a different category. It could probably go head to head with some of today's Pilseners although it definitely was maltier and less crisp than the best of the Bavarian and Czech Pilseners of today.
I am too young to have tried Gunthers, Arrow and Free State, but granny would normally give me some of her weak-ass American if I would walk up to the local corner bar for her and fill up her bucket at 7 years old! The buckets were 45 cents, but the memories are priceless. I lived two streets from the Natty Boh brewery and the malty air is something you never forget. I even think there's a picture of me at 3 yrs. old pointing at the old Hamm's building.
Posted by: Dominic Cantalupo | May 15, 2009 3:53 PM
I remember the tagline from ads for
National Premium in the late 70s or early 80s: "Expensive? Yes. Extravagant? No."
Posted by: AVC | May 20, 2009 11:41 PM
I lived in Southern Maryland (St Mary's County) from dec 1975 to September 1977. I discovered National Premium which is the best beer (imported or American) that I have ever tasted. Great, great beer.
Posted by: peahirider | July 26, 2009 3:13 AM