baltimoresun.com

« A year in beer | Main | Fun with beer at home »

Great beer piece in Nov. 24 New Yorker

Just read a terrific magazine article on the craft brewing movement in America.

New Yorker writer Burkhard Bilger follows Dogfish Head's Sam Calagione around on his brewing adventures and weaves in some of the key features and disagreements of the craft brewing world.

Baltimore's own John Gasparine gets several paragraphs for his work on finding the wood that Calagione ends up using to brew Palto Santo. Also mentioned is the Baltimore pub Good Love.

Other highlights:

 * Brooklyn's Garrett Oliver comparing brewing extreme beers to a chef putting excessive salt on his restaurant food and challenging customers by asking, are you man enough to eat this?

 *Jim Koch of Sam Adams comparing brewing extreme beers to "breaking the sound barrier."

 *Orval's brewer saying his favorite American beer is Budweiser.

 *Bilger's description of fan reaction to Calagione at the Great American Beer Festival as the equivalent of being with Captain Kirk at a Star Trek convention.

Anybody else read this? What do you think of Oliver comparing drinking extreme beers to oversalted food?

The article also poses the question: how come 96 percent of the beer consumed in America is made up of non-craft and imports? Anybody got an answer to that one?

Posted by Rob Kasper at 12:10 PM | | Comments (7)
        

Comments

As in most things in life, the answer to your question on Oliver's statement is, "It depends." As a rule, however, I think he is correct. And he brews great stuff.

Oliver is dead-on, as usual...
Some of these craft brewers, even with the hop shortages that have hit the industry, continue to try and roll out these extreme beers just to try and top the other guys. Some brewers wear the IBU count of their strongest death-by-hops ale like a badge of honor.
After trying some of these hop-tacular beers at GABF, I got to the point where my taste buds were burned out on bitter, and I could hardly tell the difference between any of the remaining beers for the rest of the evening.

On your question of why 96% of the market belongs to the big guys, there are two answers.
First, prohibition killed off more than a thousand small brewers. If we still had all of those smaller brewers, then they would have a much larger market share than the national brewers have today - much like the regional brewers in Germany.
Second, these craft brewers don't concentrate on making something that they can market to the masses. Instead, they try to be too unique with their beers, which severely limits their potential market share. Now, that doesn't mean that they should just make a Bud knock-off and stick with that, but they should have one beer that they can sell to a wide audience and then use that to sell more of their "craft" brews.

I not much on extreme beers so I guess I would agree with Oliver. I think extreme beers are a way of "marketing" a craft brewers beers without having to spend the money on advertising. Which leads me to think that 96% of the beer sold are macrobrews primarily becuase they spend the most on marketing their products. Cost also plays a key role as well. Becuase the "big guys" economy of scale is so much larger than the craft brewer it is reflected in the price of the product.

I understand Olivers point, except i like extreme beers. I think a better example would have been to compare extreme beers with hot wings. if you dont like the heat (which i dont) you wont love the "hottest of the hot". With beer, if you like the taste of extreme beers, it is fun to see how far they go.

Although it’s true that most small breweries fail within 5 years, there are some very successful craft and micro brewers that simply can’t keep up with demand. Beer from New Glarus Brewing Company in Wisconsin was hugely popular in Milwaukee and Chicago but they decided to pull out of neighboring states simply because they can’t keep up with demand. The big brewers have established breweries making millions of bottles of beer and can send their product to every bar, restaurant, and liquor store in America. The availability of their beer, even though it’s an inferior product, means that it will be purchased all over.

Rick--The difference in approaches you talk about comes with their marketing approaches because of the limitations of their $$$. 99.9999% of brewers can't compete with Bud and the big boys on a mass market scale because they don't have the cash. Sam C's gorilla marketing approach at Dogfish Head worked for him and what he was doing. Unfortunately for the wide variety of imposters trying the same thing, there is only so much room in the fridge and in the wallet for extreme brews. I'll take my sixer of Winter Storm and read some more discussion...

Garrett Oliver responds here that his opinion was misrepresented:

http://beeradvocate.com/forum/read/1632647

Post a comment

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)

Please enter the letter "k" in the field below:
About Rob Kasper
Rob Kasper, a features columnist, has been writing about beer for 20 years, and he remembers when Anchor Christmas and Noche Buena were about the only beers at a holiday tasting and Sisson’s was the only brewpub in Baltimore. A collection of his columns, "Raising Kids and Tomatoes, Amusing Tales and Appetizing Recipes," was published in 1998. He lives with his wife, Judith, a professor at Johns Hopkins School of Public Health, in a downtown Baltimore rowhouse. They have two grown sons, who come home from time to time and drink their father’s beer.
Column archive
Most Recent Comments
-- ADVERTISEMENT --