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October 21, 2008

Wharf Rat on Pratt Street has new owners

 The Wharf Rat, the restaurant and brewery at 206 W. Pratt St. that has served as a fountainhead of English ales in Baltimore, has new owners.  Donald Kelly, who has operated bars in Connecticut and Justin Dvorkin, a brewer at Fordham Brewing, bought the business from Bill Oliver on Tuesday. The price was not disclosed.

In a brief telephone interview Wednesday, Kelly said he and his partner do not anticipate making substantial changes to the restaurant and brewing operation.  "We like the concept; we bought it for the brewery," said Kelly.

Kelly said that in the couse of his career he has owned and operated 10 bars in New England, including the Black Bear Saloons in Norwalk and New Haven. "I have been in the bar business since I was 13 and I am 35 now," he said.

Steve Jones, the current Wharf Rat brewer, will continue making the establishment's beers, called Oliver Ales, Kelly said.

"The tradition of brewing English ales here speaks for itself," Kelly said, "and we like the location. We are on the corner of Main Street and Main Street in Baltimore," Kelly said."

Oliver will retain ownership of the Fells Point pub also named the Wharf Rat.

Oliver and his wife Carole took over the iron-front building on Pratt Street,  then called P.J. Cricketts restaurant, in 1992.

One of the first things they did was increase the number of  beers on tap. "It just had Coors, Sam Adams and Miller Lite," Oliver recalled in an interview. In January 1993, they added a brewery and began brewing ales. This week, when the sale was completed, the Wharf Rat on Pratt Street was pouring 25 beers on tap, Oliver said, adding, "eighteen of them were our own."

Reflecting on the change he has seen in the local brewing scene, Oliver said "we've seen them come and go." He ticked off the list of local breweries that have closed or been absorbed during his tenure. 

 "It used to be just DeGroen's, Sisson's, and Wild Goose on the Eastern Shore, and us," he said.

Baltimore Brewing Company, which made DeGroen's beers, is gone. Hugh Sisson and family sold their South Baltimore brewpub, but Sisson went on to open Clipper City Brewing. Wild Goose moved from Cambridge, Md , and  it is now brewed in Frederick and is part of  Flying Dog Brewery.

"All along we tried to make a really good product and decided to stick to one style. For us it has been English ale,'" Oliver said.

Oliver, who is 68, said one of the reasons he sold was that he was "getting up there" in years. But he added that one of the benefits of  selling the Pratt Street business would that he would now have more time to play hockey. He plays two nights a week, one of them with a group of older players who call themselves the Geri-Hatricks.

Any thoughts on the sale of Wharf Rat?

What do you think Bill Oliver has contributed to the Baltimore beer scene?

Posted by Rob Kasper at 12:30 PM | | Comments (6)
        

Comments

The Wharf Rat in Fells used to be THE spot for Friday happy hour up until the late nineties when Canton bars became the new scene. Bill and his delicious ales have made living in Fells Point a great joy,especially since the three beers for four bucks from noon till seven is so cheap. My only regret is that the Cherry Blossom ale is no longer,but you can't have everything.

In the everchanging world of breweries and brewpubs, the Wharf Rat has been a constant. There aren't too many places in the like this in the US and even the late great Michael Jackson has made mention of the fine ESB served regularly on cask. Bill has been one of Baltimore's founding fathers of craft brew and the fact that the two pubs are still there and thriving is testament to the quality and committment established long ago. It is truly great news that my friend and headbrewer ,Steve Jones, will remain and that Donald and Justin will retain the charm that keeps most of us going back. I'm sure they'll add their touches but we in the beer community look forward to furthering the love we have for The Rat. Thanks Bill and thanks to the new owners. Cheers for all....

I still miss DeGroen's Marzen.

I too miss DeGroen's Marzen beer.

I liked the Wharf Rat immensely, but what turned me off of the tapped brews was that they never cleaned the tap lines. After so many nasty tasting drafts, I stopped getting the drafts.I still frequented the place before Ravens and Orioles games, I just bought bottled beers.

Here's hoping the new owners clean the tap lines more often.

That's not the only thing the new owners will need to clean up. Not by a long shot. Good luck to them

Went to Wharf Rat on Pratt last week (Dec 9, 10, 2008) and the product was excellent, but the service sucked. As long as you don't mind getting up from your table to go to the bar and order your food and get your own beer, then you're fine. Bartenders seemed to all have attitudes for some reason.

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About Rob Kasper
Rob Kasper, a features columnist, has been writing about beer for 20 years, and he remembers when Anchor Christmas and Noche Buena were about the only beers at a holiday tasting and Sisson’s was the only brewpub in Baltimore. A collection of his columns, "Raising Kids and Tomatoes, Amusing Tales and Appetizing Recipes," was published in 1998. He lives with his wife, Judith, a professor at Johns Hopkins School of Public Health, in a downtown Baltimore rowhouse. They have two grown sons, who come home from time to time and drink their father’s beer.
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