Is a beer brunch worth it? Lessons from the DuClaw beer brunch
DuClaw had its beer brunch Sunday. I was there.
It becomes just the latest craft brewer to offer one of these things. During Baltimore Beer Week, there were a whopping 49 beer breakfasts, brunches, lunches or dinners.
Are they worth it? What's the point? What I've learned so far is that brewers see many more uses for these events than just a bargain meal for their customers.
The brunch was held at Arundel Mills at 9 a.m., a time so early mall power walkers hadn't even made an appearance yet. A few new ones would appear with each passing meal.
Still, the company's storefront was filled.
Most beer meals consist of several courses paired with the brewer's beers. DuClaw's included six brunch courses.
Sweet potato pancakes were served with the Sawtooth Belgian white, which, as DuClaw president Dave Benfield, explained, was made with bitter orange peels and coriander. Later, a bloody beer-marinated steak was served with Devil's Milk barleywine.(Full menu below)
Benfield and brewmaster Jim Wagner explained the menu was designed by playing with the ingredients in the beer and those in the breakfast food. The idea of this thing is that one should bring out the flavors in the other.
For instance, the 31 Munich Dunkel was spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg to accentuate the pumpkin waffles it was paired with.
When the pairing is good, though, it works both ways. The steak was very popular with the crowd, as was the Devil's Milk (I can't disagree, though I'm biased as a fan of barleywines.*)
So the brunch made clear a couple of things.
For the people there, it was, more than likely, just a good deal. Forty five dollars for a six course meal and unlimited beer? A bargain.
But, as I'm reporting a story on food-beer pairings, I'm learning that the brewers see a lot of potential for craft beer in these events.
For one, it shows off their product. And, more importantly, by serving beer in different settings - brunch, dinner - they are are also highlighting the variety in styles and uses of craft beer.
This is important for them because even though there's a lot of craft beer culture today, it's still not held in the same esteem as wine at nice restaurants. At most places, you might have several varieties of Pinot Blancs and Syrah wines, but just your basic bottled beers.
But, for Wagner, if the brunch proved anything, it's that with so many styles, "beer is much more versatile than wine with food."
At the very least, the gambit is proving popular with the company's clients. This first brunch sold out. And, Benfield said if the second one does too, it might become a regular thing for them.
DuClaw's full beer brunch menu:
Sweet Potato Pancakes with a Vanilla Almond Syrup topped with Fresh Homemade Cream paired with Sawtooth Belgian White
Spiced Pumpkin Waffles topped with a Cinnamon Cream paired with 31 Spiced Munich Dunkel.
Beer Marinated Steak and Eggs paired with Devil’s Milk Barleywine
Cherry Strata paired with Cherry Black Jack Stout
Beer Biscuits and Maple Sausage Gravy with Euphoria Toffee Nut Brown Ale
Banana Crepes with a Chocolate Drizzle with 13 Degrees Hefeweizen
Photo: DuClaw's Bel Air location, from Dave's Blog.
Erik Maza is a features reporter at the Baltimore Sun. He writes for several sections of the Sun paper and contributes weekly columns on music and nightlife. He also writes and edits the Midnight Sun blog. He often covers entertainment, business, and the business of entertainment. Occasionally, he writes about Four Loko, The Block, the liquor board, and those who practice "
Comments
wow you like barley based beers too?!
I thought I was the only one!
Posted by: lucas | December 21, 2010 12:34 PM
Question:
Would you have to ask what the point was to a similar wine-tasting dinner, or a bourbon luncheon?
Posted by: Alexander D. Mitchell IV | December 21, 2010 12:50 PM
Aren't all beers barley based?
Posted by: Foo | December 21, 2010 1:17 PM
Most but not all beers are barley based, but the barleywine that Erik is referring to is a style of beer which has a higher alcohol content, typically (but not always) a deep amber to chestnut brown color, and rich flavors. Typically, barleywines are aged before serving, which allows some flavors (like alcoholic heat) to mellow and others (like sherry-like tones of raisin) to develop. See this description: http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style19.php#1b
Posted by: PortRoyalBrew | December 21, 2010 4:18 PM