Dining@Large

Top Ten Uncommon Ethnic Eateries

2008-05-13T08:07:07Z

We've done Top Ten Thai and Top Ten Irish; this list is to give a nod to the ethnic restaurants that we don't have many examples of in the Baltimore area.

I liked the expression "ethnic eateries" because of the alliteration, but when you look at the list you'll see that most of these aren't the holes in the wall that "eateries" suggests.

Many of you serious restaurant goers have already been to all of these, I'm sure. It would be fun if some of you who don't know these places would visit each of them -- a sort global tour of Baltimore restaurants. And then, of course, let us know what you think.

Here's the list: ...

]]> * Babalu Grill (Cuban). Try the dishes that are from owner Steve de Castro's family recipes like the arroz con pollo with saffron rice, sweet peas and roasted peppers.

* Baltimore Pho (Vietnamese), 1116 Hollins St., 410-752-4746. In the interest of geographical diversity, I want to also mention An Loi and Pho Dat Thanh in Columbia, both good. But I went to Baltimore Pho more recently and really liked it.

* Carlyle Club (Lebanese). As you can see from the photo, it's a bit dressier than some of the other places on this list, and a very nice setting for dishes like green lentil soup with Swiss chard and lamb seared with lemon and herbs.

* Dukem (Ethiopian). A branch of the well-regarded restaurant in DC. Of course, you'll have a selection of stews and other dishes on the bread/plate called injera. Let your server be your guide if you're indecisive.

* El Trovador (Salvadoran). It's confusing because the Web site bills this as a Mexican restaurant, but you'll find plenty of authentic Salvadoran dishes on the menu. It got a "Best Bite" recently from Happy Eater Rob.

* Helmand (Afghan). Just because everyone knows about the Helmand and it appears often on these lists, doesn't mean it can be omitted when you're talking about Uncommon Ethic Eateries. Where else are you going to get aushak and sabzy challow?

* La Cazuela, 1718 Eastern Ave., Upper Fells Point, 410-522-9485. A fresh, cheerful little restaurant that serves Ecuadorean home cooking. A typical dish is churrasco, a delicious but paper-thin piece of steak flanked by two fried eggs, rice, crisp fries, tomatoes and avocado.

* Nam Kang, 2126 Maryland Ave. 410-685-6237 (Korean) For decades Baltimoreans have gone here for traditional dishes like bulgogi and bibimbap. A specialty is hot pots. Nam Kang is also good to know about because it's open until 4 a.m. Yes, that's not a typo.

* Orchard Market & Cafe (Persian). It's hard to find, but worth the trouble, with dishes like duck fesenjune and dried plum lamb. The menu is divided into "innovative" and classic Persian dishes. Both are good. BYOB.

* Ze Mean Bean (Eastern European). The Bean is a funky combination of New American cuisine and homey Slavic dishes like potato dumplings with kielbasa. And you can't beat the Thursday Slavic night special: borscht and a pierogi or holupki (cabbage rolls) dinner for $9.95.

(Andre F. Chung/Sun photographer)

Of pizzas and restaurants banning children

2008-05-12T20:23:26Z

Why does she do it? Editor Kate knows how territorial I am. First she steals Multimedia Editor Etc. John and his filling station fare story, and now she's writing about pizzas on her mommy blog. Doesn't she know I'm the only one who gets to write about pizza?

I feel another post on children in restaurants coming on. How about this? Carey H kindly sent me a link to a story about a restaurant that has banned children under six.

A new farmers market coming downtown

2008-05-12T18:29:42Z

I stopped at the farmers market under the viaduct yesterday, where I bought some excellent strawberries from Hills Forest Fruit Farm in Baltimore County.

The woman selling them and I got to talking about strawberries, and she showed me (camera phone envy alert!) her LG with a photo of a giant strawberry next to a quarter. I can't understand why people want big strawberries, I say the smaller the better, but it sure was a beautiful picture.

Anyway, in other market news, Andy kindly e-mailed to tell me that the Baltimore Farmers Market is no longer going to be the only farmers market downtown. He recently got this from Harbor East Property Management: ...

]]> We are very pleased to announce that FRESHFARM Markets, a non-profit organization that builds and strengthens the local food movement in the Chesapeake Bay region, will be setting up their first Baltimore City market right in Harbor East. Each Saturday from 9am-1pm, June 14 – October 25, the 1000 block of Lancaster Street will feature 10-12 local farmers selling local, fresh, seasonal foods. The street will be closed each Saturday from 7am – 2pm. There will be a street sweep each Saturday afternoon following the breakdown of the market.

Note the hours, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. as opposed to the Waverly Market's 7 a.m. to noon. Wise. I can't see Harbor East residents partying Friday night and then getting up at the crack of dawn Saturday morning to buy heirloom tomatoes.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Monday Morning Quarterbacking

2008-05-12T09:53:08Z

If you missed my review of the Brass Elephant yesterday, here's the link. It's a beautiful restaurant in an era when, now that I think about it, beauty doesn't count for as much as it used to (at least in restaurant decor). Do you think that's true? It's the high-energy restaurants that seem to be packed.

Even the Tusk Lounge upstairs was very busy the night we ate there. Of course, that's partly a function of what it costs to eat there as opposed to the main dining room. ...

]]> Kali's Court in Fells Point, said to me in an interview for a Q & A (paraphrasing here). There's always going to be a certain number of people who aren't really affected when the economy goes down the tank, and they like to be surrounded by other wealthy people. The rest of us eat at home more when money is tight.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Breakfast on our back porch

2008-05-11T19:33:09Z

How would you feel if you were sitting out on your little back deck where you enjoy a nice breakfast on a spring morning, and you looked up and saw this in the cedar tree directly above your head?

My photo doesn't convey the scale of the thing, or its ominous quality. It's clearly a nest, and it looks to be about two feet across. For some reason I keep thinking of giant wasps, but I guess maybe a vulture or a large owl is more likely.

I don't think I'll be eating outside anymore. Too nerve wracking. My husband says squirrels have large nests. I say not this large.

Next Sunday's review

2008-05-11T18:34:53Z

You may have a preconceived notion of what a patisserie and bistro named "honey" would be like. I know I did.

Meli, which means "honey" in Greek, is the Kali's Restaurant Group's third place. It's nothing like I imagined it. For one thing, it's much more of a restaurant and night spot than I expected. I'll be writing about our meal there next Sunday in the Arts & Life Today section. We can talk about it Monday.

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

The incredible shrinking everything

2008-05-11T14:11:25Z

Before the conversation on sneaky downsizing goes much further, I thought I better make it a separate entry. Where I really mind it is in cans of things, because I like cooking from mid-century cookbooks sometimes, when sizes were different. It can really affect a recipe, and it's hard to make the right adjustment.

Just to bring you up to date, here's the discussion so far: ...

]]>
Posted by: WildBillFan | May 10, 2008 6:01 PM

WildBillFan -- I made the same point about ice cream sizes two weeks ago, as per this post (scroll down to my comment at April 29, 2008 6:38 AM).

Posted by: hmpstd | May 11, 2008 7:06 AM

The incredible shrinking food size affects more than just ice cream. I expect some of them are scaling back the size and keeping the price the same hoping that not too many people will notice rather than raising the price and having everyone notice.

Posted by: Rosebud | May 11, 2008 7:39 AM

I am so happy that I am not the only person who is unhappy with the shrinking ice cream carton. I was in the grocery store this week and noticed how much the 'half gallon' carton had shrunk. Now intellectually I had processed the change a long time ago, but the visual processing had not quite kicked in. There in the case was a Turkey Hill special edition carton sitting strangely alone on the half-filled shelf. It was so tiny that I stopped to really look. Well, it was 48 ounces. This is a difference not to be sniffed at. Coupled with the 3.69 per gallon cost of gasoline and it is just too much for a mere mortal such as I. I am going back to bed to await my Mothers Day breakfast. But since the two chefs are still asleep, maybe I will make my own.

Posted by: Regina | May 11, 2008 7:44 AM

As I put the groceries away Friday, I realized that the Hellman's mayo was now only 30 oz instead of 32. Luckily, it was a BOGO or I would have been more upset.

Posted by: bra1nchild | May 11, 2008 8:25 AM

Gailor riffs on supermarket food...

2008-05-10T18:45:58Z

...which is pretty surprising when you think about the state of her refrigerator in Los Angeles. I didn't realize she knew food came from a supermarket. I was sure she thought it either a) was purchased from a restaurant or b) appeared magically in our kitchen for me to cook.

Anyway, she pointed out that Pepperidge Farm's Hardy Wheat Crackers had become Harvest Wheat Crackers since our last box. ...

]]> Then she started to imagine the marketing geniuses who came up with the idea that "Hardy" somehow sounded like they would make you fat, while "Harvest" conveyed that they were all-natural, one-with-earth and filled with old-fashioned goodness.

As far as we can figure out, that's the only change.

Then she started to wonder about Amy's organic and vegetarian soups, which magically appeared on store shelves -- it feels kind of recently. They've become a staple in our cupboard now that my daughter is home.

One minute, so Gailor fantasized, Amy was making soup in her kitchen; the next, she had a billion-dollar company.

I had a feeling maybe it wasn't that dramatic. I got online and found out that Amy actually isn't the cook, but the daughter, and the company is 21 years old. It started the year Amy was born.

So happy Mother's Day, Amy's mom.

Adventures in shopping

2008-05-10T15:58:55Z

I got to the Waverly Market in time to get Eastern Shore strawberries from the one vendor who was selling them. (All the others I asked about were from Virginia, California or North Carolina.) If the box, which cost $5, looks a little skimpy, it's because I've already been at them.

Then I headed for the Giant, which would normally not be newsworthy except that a woman was, exciting news, handing out free samples of Bagel-fuls. (No, I didn't have one. A bit early for me. Of course, any time would be a bit early for me.)

I reached for my camera so I could show I'm not making this up, but there was about as much chance that I had my camera with me as that I had remembered to take my shopping list.

Death row last meals and okra

2008-05-10T10:59:12Z

Oh, good. It's raining again. Isn't that a pleasant surprise.

I've been thinking a lot about death the last couple of days, what with the great weather and all, so Owl Meat's latest contribution to the blog, the URL to a Web site that lists actual death row last meals fit right in.

At least, I suppose it's actual death row last meals. You couldn't make this stuff up:

four fried pork chops, collard greens with boiled okra and "boiling meat", fried corn, fried fatback, fried green tomatoes, cornbread, lemonade, one pint of strawberry ice cream and three glazed donuts (John Washington Hightower, Georgia, June 26, 2007)

The only bright spot...

]]> ...was how often okra shows up. This was my favorite. I think this might be my last meal:

fried okra, four buns with lots of butter, lots of salt and two slices of banana bread (Robert Charles Comer, Arizona, May 23, 2007)

I'm a big fan of okra. It has moderate food value: a lot of vitamin C, a little bit of calcium, iron and vitamin A. A good amount of fiber. Very few calories (31 per serving).

I want all of you to give it a second chance.

My favorite way to introduce it to people is the way you feed unfamiliar food to children: You disguise it. Wait until summer and then lightly saute some scallions and thin strips of green pepper. When soft add a peeled, seeded and chopped tomato; a lot of fresh, local corn cut off the cob; and okra sliced on the diagonal. Cover and let steam until just done. Add a nice pat of butter, salt and freshly ground pepper before serving.

(Photo courtesy of Seasoned Pioneers)

And the winner is...

2008-05-09T21:21:20Z

I've tentatively decided on Top Ten Uncommon Ethnic Eateries, with Top Ten Bistros a close second and open for discussion to use the following week, and Top Ten Places for Waterfront Dining (suggested by commenter extraordinaire Donny B) to be held for warmer weather, say the week after that.

If I remember.

I decided on ethnic eateries because I can list some restaurants that haven't appeared on too many lists before, because it's a topic that's been suggested before and I ignored it, and because the alliteration is awesome. Just kidding about that last one.

(Colby Ware/Sun photographer)

Chefs who give locavorism a bad name

2008-05-09T18:51:16Z

Actually, I'm not sure you can give locavorism a bad name because it already has a bad name. However, the locavores I know are reasonable folks, who feel if you crave pineapple, buy a pineapple; but if spinach is in season, buy it from your local farmer rather than a California conglomerate.

Then a story like this comes along: ...

]]> Celeb chef Gordon Ramsay thinks out-of-season produce ought to be outlawed in restaurants, the BBC reports. He's already spoken to the Prime Minister about fining restaurants who have anything but seasonal fruits and vegetables on their menus.

Needless to say, this annoyed Duncan Green of Oxfam, who is quoted as saying he was sure "the million farmers in east Africa who rely on exporting their goods to scrape a living would see Gordon Ramsay's assertions as a recipe for disaster."

(Stephane de Sakutin/AFP/Getty Images)

Next Tuesday's Top Ten

2008-05-09T16:18:27Z

Every Friday I get a nagging little e-mail from Editor Tim entitled "It's promo time." This reminds me I haven't come up with a Top Ten Tuesday topic yet. (I shouldn't complain. I like it whenever the blog gets promoted in the paper.)

Anyway, I'm not inspired this week so I'm open to suggestions, but someone wrote to me recently asking me for restaurants open Monday. There are a surprising number, she said, that aren't.

I might do Monday restaurants on Tuesday if the list is of interest to you. To narrow it down a bit, they would have to be a certain type: not a special occasion place but an after-work kind of restaurant.

What do you think? And don't just say too boring; come up with another suggestion. Owl Meat, you may only post under this entry before midnight. ...

]]> Just as I finished writing the above, I got an e-mail from Laurie looking for a place to celebrate getting her masters (congratulations, Laurie). She was hoping we'd done a Top Ten Restaurants for Celebrations, but I don't think we have. How about that for a topic?

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

More on restaurant bathrooms

2008-05-09T11:10:59Z

I know we've discussed it before, but there is definitely a trend happening here. Restaurant bathrooms are better or at least more interesting than they used to be. I know this because I never noticed restaurant bathrooms except the time the hot water handle came off in my hand in the Roy's ladies room a month after the place opened. ...

]]> Now Meli has opened with a sink and mirror in common for the men's and ladies' rooms. What's the advantage of that, I wonder, beyond the coolness factor? Some savings in plumbing?

And then there's the Catonsville Gourmet's ladies room, pictured above. Besides the flowers and the two kinds of hand lotion and whatever comes out of that weird black thing on the wall to the left in the mirror (I would say soap, but the soap dispenser is on the sink), there are two chairs, barely peeking up at the bottom of the mirror, that seem to be upholstered in some sort of faux velvet or suede. In case you want to lounge around in the ladies room before you join your party again.

It's actually a very nice room, and I hope they don't mind my poking a little fun at it. It's more elegant than the restaurant decor itself.

While I'm posting photos, I couldn't resist uploading the sign from across the street. Now this is a full-service caterers: food and checks cashed.

(Photos by me)

A devastating development in the crab campaign

2008-05-08T21:36:39Z

A horrible development has just -- er -- developed in our Write Mike campaign to get film critic Mike Sragow to give us a review of "Attack of the Crab Monsters" for Crab Week. No, I'm not talking about my daughter's traitorous comment appointing herself captain of Team Sragow AND promising T-shirts. (This close to Mother's Day, too.) That's a separate issue.

Sragow, who has so far gotten a grand total of five e-mails (and I believe one of them was from Midnight Sun Sam, which I'm not sure counts), told Editor Tim about the campaign and the review, and now Editor Tim wants him to write a column about "Attack" and review it for next week. ...

]]> I must have looked like Mike had stabbed me in the heart when he told me this, because he mumbled something about writing about Narnia instead.

The good news, if there is any, is that he had the "Attack" DVD overnighted to himself from Amazon, so I can take it off the top of my Netflix queue.

I hate to be scooped by my own newspaper.

By the way, Mike said, and I quote, "Your blog people are a literate bunch."

I'll have to read those e-mails.