baltimoresun.com

« Waverly Market report | Main | From prime-time TV to Prime foreclosure auction: Timothy Dean's restaurant to be sold »

August 8, 2010

City Cafe reviewed

City Cafe linguineRichard Gorelick reviews City Cafe in today's Sun.

I got a kick out of Richard's lede:

"The type size on City Cafe's menu is too small. Well, that's about it, folks. Everything else this magically restored Mount Vernon institution is doing is whip-smart and spot-on."

Read the full review here.

 

City Cafe's Linguine with Crab Meatballs. Sun photo by Lloyd Fox

 

Posted by Laura Vozzella at 8:04 AM | | Comments (6)
        

Comments

I've been a fixture at City Cafe for years upon years now. I've seen staff come and go, and spent many an hour working on my thesis work on laptop row, many a morning, afternoon and night.

Richard is spot-on with the space - renovations can often go awry, but City Cafe's managed to retain hipness, while being inviting and welcoming.

When the menu went upmarket, I did have a slight sense of trepidation - what, with so many other restaurants shutting down from recession penny-pinching.

Chad's touches have been playful and inspired in their dialogue of homey comfort food and fine dining flourishes. I've been to enough places in other cities that confuse these elements for preciousness -- which Chad dutifully steers clear of.

It's like a genteel Sunday dinner at your grandmother's house, if your grandmother just happened to be Lillian Hellman.

It's almost as if it's the menu that the restaurant has spent all these years preparing itself for.

El Gen--I can't imagine Lillian Hellman as anyone's grandmother!

Lillian Hellman??? The Mayonnaise Heiress???

(and yes, this is a joke)

Can't let this pass without recalling Mary McCarthy on Lillian Hellman: "every word [Hellman] writes is a lie, including 'and' and 'the'."

We've been patrons of the City Cafe since 1997 and I have to say, the meatless nachos (green chili chickpeas, pepperjack cheese sauce, sour cream, guacamole, pico de gallo) are not only The Best Nachos I've ever had, they are one of the best things I've ever had at City Cafe.

Glad they're getting recognition for their efforts.

I chose the City Cafe for Sunday brunch due to the fact that it was under a new chef, had some very good reviews, and it was advertised as having internet services. I made an online reservation--with phone number and email address--however, when I arrived I was told there was no internet. Ordinarily, this would not be so bothersome, but I had midterm grades to finish up for my classes. As well, every single link I pulled up on my phone (how I found the Cafe' and made a reservation, because my home internet was not working) advertised the Cafe as having internet available. It felt like poor customer service. I stated on the reservation form what my needs were complete with 2 different ways to contact me.
Too bad, I would have loved to try them out. I had gone before the new chef came on board and never had an acceptable meal.
The other problem with this situation is that the host who met me was rather cavalier, stating "Oh, we had the internet disconnected two months ago." I think it's time to let someone know about that.

Post a comment

All comments must be approved by the blog author. Please do not resubmit comments if they do not immediately appear. You are not required to use your full name when posting, but you should use a real e-mail address. Comments may be republished in print, but we will not publish your e-mail address. Our full Terms of Service are available here.

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About this blog

You are reading the archives. For updated blog posts about the Maryland food scene, see Richard Gorelick's new Baltimore Diner blog.
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Sign up for FREE text alerts
Get free Sun alerts sent to your mobile phone.*
Get free Baltimore Sun mobile alerts
Sign up for dining text alerts

Returning user? Update preferences.
Sign up for more Sun text alerts
*Standard message and data rates apply. Click here for Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Food & Drink newsletter
Need ideas for dinner tonight? A recommendation for the perfect red wine? Baltimoresun.com's Food & Drink newsletter is there to help.
See a sample | Sign up

Stay connected