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July 4, 2010

Groundhog charcuterie

Groundhog DayYou might think you know where this whole charcuterie trend came from.

The farm-to-table movement got more chefs buying directly from farmers, which often meant buying whole animals. That left chefs with lots of leftover animal parts. And voila, house-made sausage, pate, bacon, etc.

That's the way it happened for lots of chefs.

But Winston Blick of Clementine got a head start on waste-not-want-not culinary mantra.

It all began when he shot a groundhog.

Blick, who grew up hunting, was just a kid visiting his great aunt's farm when he took down the critter.

"I shot a groundhog and wasn't supposed to and guess what I had to eat for three days?" he said. "It was horrible. It was greasy. It was like a really big rat."

He said the "charcuterie movement," though far more palatable than his groundhog meals, is about the same thing: "Trying to educate people about what they eat and get them to eat all of it." 

Bill Murray considers a future in charcuterie in "Groundhog Day." Columbia Pictures

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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