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July 28, 2010

Hanne Blank talks purslane

PurslaneSome in the Sandbox seemed less than tempted when I wrote about the edible weed purslane. And that was before I posted this picture with a bug on it. I'm not trying to convert any purslane-haters out there, but you just might want to hear out Hanne Blank. The Baltimore author and accomplished cook, who sometimes puts on a Chinese street food brunch at Mill Valley Garden Center, gave a rousing defense of the weed when the subject came up on Baltimore Food Makers. She makes a convincing case, her use of the word "mucilaginous" notwithstanding. I pass along her comments here with her permission. Here's Hanne. LV

Purslane is a fantastic vegetable and I grow it on purpose each year in my garden, partly as weed control around/under my cucumber vines and partly because I love to eat it. I recommend it highly as a salad vegetable. It's great in green salads and added to slaws. It's also very nice in composed salads like Salade Nicoise, as its texture and taste marry well with oily/pungent things like olives and anchovies.

It is a traditional cooking vegetable in many parts of the world. There are two main ways that it is cooked. One is a very quick cooking over high heat. It can be dry-fried in a very very hot dry pan, in order to wilt it slightly, then dressed with something like a vinaigrette or with citrus juice. I stir-fry it in a number of ways, according to various Chinese regional techniques. It is well suited to recipes that call for saan choy (aka Vietnamese spinach or Malabar spinach or slippery vegetable). I find that it goes nicely with fermented black beans, and also with fish sauce -- the funky fermented pungency of these seasonings goes well with the slightly acidic taste and juicy texture of the purslane.

The other major way to cook it, worldwide, is to stew it. Mexican cooking is particularly good with the stewed version. Throughout Mexico you will find recipes for verdolagas -- that's Spanish for purslane. Stewed with meat and chiles and onions, as in the nearly universal Mexican dish puerco con verdolagas, it does become mucilaginous, but the effect is very like putting okra in a gumbo. (I have substituted purslane for okra in gumbo, actually, it works really well if you can't find good okra.) Verdolagas con salsa (green and red) is also a very popular dish and really tasty. I like verdolagas con salsa verde as a companion to lengua (tongue).

You'll also find purslane in many other world cuisines. The Turkish dish domatesli semizotu is a stewed tomato and purslane dish that I like a great deal. It's along the lines of the Greek green bean dish fasolakia, if you're familiar with that. The Greeks also cook purslane, sometimes with lemon and potato and sumac and thyme, which I personally think is quite inspired.

The only thing to bear in mind with purslane is that you either want it raw/barely cooked through, or else you wanna cook the hell out of it, probably with an acid along for the ride. Anything in between is likely to seem unpleasantly slimy to the American palate.

 

Photo by math-hubby
Posted by Laura Vozzella at 1:59 PM | | Comments (8)
        

Comments

Well, at least it won't kill you if it's prepared improperly ... I think.

Everyone should check out Hanne's blog http://www.hanneblank.com/blog/ if they haven't, it has great recipes and a lotta food wisdom.

"I have made a satisfactory dinner, satisfactory on several accounts, simply off a dish of purslane (Portulaca oleracea) which I gathered in my cornfield, boiled and salted."

H.D. Thoreau, Walden

Thanks to D@L, last night I discovered I have a (very) small crop of purslane growing in the large flowerpot next to my front stoop. I wonder how it would work added to a batch of refrigerator pickles this weekend...

If you try the purslane in the pickles, BankStreet, please let us know how they come out.

Will do.

Here's the recipe I'll be ...enhancing:

http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Moms-Cucumbers/Detail.aspx

The purslane seems to have added little more than color to my cucumbers. Very little taste ... maybe a little "spice."

Or ... as captcha would have it, "parmly pH."

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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