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June 24, 2010

If Georgia O'Keeffe had a barbacoa joint

Cow skullJust last week, I learned about a special goat dinner at Woodberry Kitchen, where they serve the whole animal, head and all.

Then this morning, I heard about plans to serve cow's head at Cuadrado, the Mexican barbecue restaurant scheduled to open this fall on North Avenue, across the street from Joe Squared Pizza.

"Everything but the brain," is how Joe Edwardsen described the future menu item. Edwardsen is the Joe in Joe Squared and will also own the barbacoa joint. 

"It's all that face meat, which is the most delicious meat on the cow," he said.

The cow's head will be smoked whole, but the meat will be served off the bone in deference to those "nothing-with-a-face meat-type people," he said.

"We’ll tear it off so you’ll just get the meat," he said.

Meats of all kind -- goat, pig, chicken, turkey -- will be available at the restaurant, slow-cooked in banana and agave leaves. The restaurant will seat about 116.

I asked Edwardsen about the name, which means square in Spanish. At Joe Squared, the pizzas are square. How will the square theme play out at Cuadrado?

"I'll have some square plates," he said, "but we're not serving square tacos."


Photo courtesy of  The Art Institute of Chicago

Posted by Laura Vozzella at 12:13 PM | | Comments (1)


I'm really looking forward to this place. Joe is a great neighborhood guy who serves great food. I also really admire how he isn't taking any crap from the kids that keep tagging the plywood covering the front entrance. He must have repainted that thing at least 20 times over the last year.

I really hope he serves that creamy white cheese dip!!!

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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