"Designer salt" coming to a potato chip near you
We've had designer jeans. Designer diaper bags. Now, designer salt.
"Later this month ... PepsiCo Inc. plans to start churning out batches of a secret new ingredient to make its Lay's potato chips healthier," the Wall Street Journal reports. "The ingredient is a new 'designer salt' whose crystal crystals are shaped and sized in a way that reduces the amount of sodium consumers ingest when they munch. PepsiCo hopes the powdery salt, which it is still studying and testing with consumers, will cut sodium levels 25% in its Lay's Classic potato chips."
Sergio Vitale, owner of Aldo's Ristorante Italiano in Little Italy, alerted me to the article. He's skeptical.
"I guarantee you this new salt will eventually be deemed 'bad for your health,' just like margarine," he said. "Food developed in a test tube is not food."
Salt made the old-fashioned way -- solar evaporation of sea water -- in Mexico. Getty Images








Comments
Somehow I suspect that "designer salt" will prove to be as popular an ingredient in potato chip production as was Olestra.
Posted by: hmpstd | March 23, 2010 2:04 PM
It seems to me to be targeted towards large-scale industrial food - prepared food makers and fast-food giants.
New York's regulation of sodium intake will probably affect these corners of the market disproportionate to fine-dining or mom-and-pop operations, in terms of folks responding to the product.
I mean -- cummon, what makes McDonald's fries so good? It's the salt.
And, if New York's prescience in banning smoking and trans-fats is any indication, we could consider them a barometer for the overall nutritional health mood of the rest of the country.
FWIW, my family has a history of hypertensive disease - so I've always been a little cautious about my own sodium intake. Cooking for myself and keeping healthy options in mind eating out definitely helps.
But salt is one of those things in public nutrition, like sugar and fat that inversely correlates with education and wealth - those with less resources tend to load up on the bad stuff only because that's what's available for cheap. And that says to me industrial food.
Posted by: Anonymous | March 23, 2010 4:58 PM
I'll bet the salt is mixed with potassium chloride. Potassium and sodium sort of cancel each other out, so it would be "less salt digested" Potassium chloride is marketed/sold in the grocery store as "No-Salt" salt substitute.
It is salty in taste, but not in the way of our dear friend sodium chloride. From the description in the quoted article, i'm close to positive that i'm correct.
Posted by: Meekrat | March 23, 2010 5:53 PM
I don't know, Meekrat. It sounds like they are trying to engineer the NaCl so that it maximizes the salt taste while lowering the salt content. Since NaCl is crystalline in structure there may be all kinds of nifty things they could do to the shape of the salt to get max surface tongue action (the name of my new band).
I think something that was 25% KCl would taste weird, as in, terrible.
True salt taste only comes from salt. It's practically in our DNA.
Watcha think?
I'm thinking nano-saltbots too.
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy | March 23, 2010 6:07 PM
I use "no-salt" a great deal as a vitamin supplement of sorts ( chronic low levels), not for flavor at all. It does have some of the same properties in cooking; however i agree, NaCl is The One True Flavor.
It's off putting that they're trying to "engineer" salt. Strikes me that there may be all sorts of strange additives going into making the desired result. ~creaking open sound of the lid of Pandora's Box~
KCl is very fine in texture, close to a powder, which is why i thought of it.
You know what really makes McDonald's fries so darn addictive.. it's the sugar to salt ratio.MMMMMMMMMMM fries... droool.
Posted by: Meekrat | March 23, 2010 7:16 PM
You're probably right, Meekratty. I am foolishly optimistic and think of some pure Lego-like structure. More likely it would be some cancerous crown ether with an Na ion inside, if that's possible.
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy | March 23, 2010 7:25 PM
I gained a new respect for salt while reading Salt: A World History by Mark Kurlansky. And ever since, I've been waiting for an appropriate moment to mention that I read a whole book on salt. Yep. Just salt.
Posted by: jl | March 23, 2010 8:16 PM
I think I read that book too, jl. It was huge, well-written, and what I learned was that salt was important. I can't say that I remember much more. But I do remember that isn't just some spice that we add now, it was something that people killed for. Right?
Posted by: marley | March 24, 2010 12:36 AM
Marley, you are indeed correct. Soldiers (Roman) were also paid in it, hence our word salary.
Posted by: Meekrat | March 24, 2010 8:23 AM
and salad, salami, but not salamander
Posted by: marley | March 24, 2010 8:41 AM
from the WSJ: "The ingredient is a new "designer salt" whose crystals are shaped and sized in a way that reduces the amount of sodium consumers ingest when they munch. "
How do you shape salt
Posted by: marley | March 24, 2010 8:47 AM
How do you shape salt
If I had to guess, it's in forming the lattice structure of the crystal at a molecular level.
Sodium chloride naturally packs into a cubic lattice. One could imagine that if they could find a way to pack it into some other lattice arrangement, or interrupt the periodicity of the lattice, you'd actually have less actual mass per volume.
Think of it as the difference between ice and snow - the looser crystals of snow, interrupted by air, have less actual water.
Posted by: El Generalissimo | March 24, 2010 12:00 PM
So it might be fluffy salt?
Posted by: Leonora | March 24, 2010 1:15 PM
Two words: buckyballs
Posted by: Karl | March 24, 2010 1:24 PM
Um, Karl, that's one word.
Posted by: Dahlink | March 24, 2010 3:06 PM
Well thats 2 words in a smashup, right?
Posted by: Karl | March 24, 2010 3:12 PM
just like buck-minister
Posted by: odie b | March 24, 2010 3:50 PM
Right, mate, saves a bit of time but it is you know quite odd picturing a bambi vicar, aint it? I mean what's the point? Deers dont organize well for sundays, right? Seems pointless.
Posted by: Karl | March 24, 2010 3:56 PM
Is that all you have going on in the round little head of yours?
I mean, at the least, we could make your head into a buckyball. at least it would have sides.
(woah there science nerds! capatcha: brahe whom!)
Posted by: Odie B, not Ricky G | March 24, 2010 4:23 PM
Are you winding me up, mate? Thats daft you know because then well would your hat not fit ill? Sounds like a right flummy situation you know because of me wool topper. I dont like changing hats or much of anything to be honest so no it wouldnt suit me. Besides me heads not made of salt so that wouldnt work now would it?
Posted by: Karl | March 24, 2010 4:34 PM
Is Sergio afraid of modern science? Darwin rejoices.
Posted by: Bob UU | March 27, 2010 10:30 PM
I happen to know that Sergio is almost always properly identified as a human and not a shaved ape with a beard and an excellent suit.
Posted by: Six Sigma Blackbelt | March 27, 2010 11:16 PM
it's just about the structure of the crystals, subnerds, uh duhhhhhhhhhh .................
Posted by: spongeblob | March 27, 2010 11:34 PM