What good is a professional restaurant critic?
Thanks to Federal Hill Jim for giving me a heads up about this interesting story in the Columbia Journalism Review on what constitutes a restaurant critic. I wonder if Robert Sietsema is related to Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema. He's got to be, don't you think?








Comments
So apparently Craig Clairborne is the culprit behind the damned stars.
Posted by: Hal Laurent | February 8, 2010 8:06 PM
I was cringing at the "man comes to women's section, professionalizes it and makes it be taken seriously" bit. However, there were some very good points there, and I've been a bit concerned by a lot of the food blogging I've seen. Here, Elizabeth has been very clear about how she reviews, and if one hangs around, you can get a feel for which of the regulars like what kind of things. But there are some really unethical, thoughtless people out there saying bizarre things about restaurants.
Posted by: Lissa | February 8, 2010 8:50 PM
But there are some really unethical, thoughtless people out there saying bizarre things about restaurants.
I wish it were only restaurants.
Posted by: bra1nchild | February 8, 2010 9:29 PM
I draw a distinction between critic and reviewer. A critic must bring a body of knowledge to bear on her subject, a reviewer may bring nothing, not even sensibility. Each will be judged on reliability or entertainment value or whatever readers value. Much the same can be said of restaurants and books. If I want literary criticism, I'll pick up Agee. If I want a good read, I'll check with JoAnne Schmitz. Ergo, Sietsema's undies are in a bunch for nothing. That's a review, of course, not a criticism.
Posted by: jl | February 8, 2010 9:33 PM
9:32 is link spam.
And I'm with you, bra1nchild.
Posted by: Lissa | February 8, 2010 9:34 PM
Tom Sietsema gets asked all the time on his WaPo chats about Robert Sietsema, and consistently states that they are not related. Which has got to be one of the most bizarre, if utterly trivial, coincidences in American life.
Posted by: Jim | February 8, 2010 10:32 PM
Hi Elizabeth. The two Sietsemas aren't related, though Tom admires Rob. Tom said so in a chat; what are the odds of two critics with the same unusual name?
Posted by: rona Kobell | February 8, 2010 10:47 PM
For what it's worth, Lissa, I can't shake the feeling I've read this particular missive about Pauline Kael before.
Posted by: El Generalissimo | February 9, 2010 2:23 AM
To me, EL provides the right approach to restaurant reviewing for our fast-changing times. In the Sunday Sun, she provides a professional asessment, based on her experience and expertise. Here at D@L, readers are welcome to praise, bash, question and otherwise opine on local eateries to our non-pro hearts' content. Both are equally valuable in helping us decide where to go to dinner (presuming, of course, that it ever stops snowing.)
Posted by: Michael A. Gray | February 9, 2010 8:38 AM
I just love it when jl says "ergo".
Posted by: Eve | February 9, 2010 10:42 AM