About that venison heart
A friend of mine recently traveled to Chicago and, while dining out at The Publican restaurant, was surprised to see venison heart on the menu.
Sounds to me like a twofer movie sequel, in which the huntsman charged with doing in Snow White presents the Evil Queen with a deer's heart instead of a pig's, and it's so tasty, they all live happily ever after. Except for Bambi.
Giving nary a thought to Disney, my friend ordered the venison heart and thoroughly enjoyed it.
That got me wondering if anyone around here offers that sort of delicacy. I asked -- you guessed it -- Chef Patrick Morrow, partly because his restaurant Bluegrass will offer game, and partly because I already had him on the horn to discuss a couple of other, aforeblogged matters.
While venison hearts aren't on Morrow's menu, he has cooked hearts of geese and lamb for himself and friends.
"I have some friends who are hunters," he said. "They'll come back, and the next thing I know I'm cooking a six-course meal at their house."
Which the other night, included goose livers and hearts.
"I thought I wouldn't like heart and actually it's very good," he said. "It can be very tough so you have to slice it very thin. ... Lots of people are probably sous vide-ing it because it makes it more tender."
(Paging Prof. McIntyre: Sous vide-ing? Sous viding? Which is it? I'd hate to tick off the French.)
With more adventurous eaters out there, and more chefs buying whole animals straight from farmers, expect to see more "off cuts" of meat on menus, Morrow said.
"In the last year, I've paid more attention to the offal," he said. "More people are trying it."
(Photo of Bambi courtesy of The Walt Disney Company)








Comments
Big offal fan here. When I was growing up on a farm on the Eastern Shore, we would butcher a steer for our home freezer each year, and I learned to love tongue, heart, liver (is liver "offal"?). My mother was not a very creative cook, so the tongue and heart were, as I recall, usually just boiled ... but the both made great sandwiches....
Years ago, I saw a tray of lamb tongues for sale in my supermarket's meat department and asked the butcher if he sold a lot of them. He allowed as how his only customer was a guy who fed 'em to his pet piranha. Given their somewhat disturbing resemblance to human tongues, I wondered if that customer had to be careful not to get *too* close to his pet during feeding time....
Posted by: BankStreet | February 21, 2010 6:36 AM
Title + Artwork = I ♥ LaVoz
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy | February 21, 2010 6:59 AM
It may be time to overcome that "offal is awful" feeling. We are very fond of sweetbreads (properly prepared). Time to branch out in the name of using the whole beast.
Posted by: Dahlink | February 21, 2010 7:33 AM
Offal and marrow bones are the darlings of the culinary world now. I dare say in no small part from the combined efforts of Bourdain and Zimern.
Although I did grow up eating chicken hearts, feet, and liver, kishke and whatever other chicken bits went either into soup or into some other tasty concoction, I am loathe to try venison heart.
One the one hand, I'm not overly fond of venison most of the time (too gamey) but yeah, there's that Bambi thing.
Posted by: Joyce W. | February 21, 2010 10:01 AM
Joyce W., I feel the same way about bunny wabbit. Thumper, anyone?
Posted by: Dahlink | February 21, 2010 10:25 AM
Sous vide-ing? Sous viding? Which is it? I'd hate to tick off the French.)
Zut alors!
"Sous vide" is a noun which translates as vacuum in French. It also functions as an adjective and adverb (as "sous-vide"), but not as a verb. (Of course in English you can make anything a verb and I am a flagrant verbizer and nounenator, not to mention a mild case of conjunctionitis.)
So, I guess the proper form would be sous-vide cooking for a sous-videriste. ¡Olé!
Of course, since you are quoting someone who is coining the word, "sous vide-ing" seems right.
Posted by: Owl Meat Gendarme | February 21, 2010 12:02 PM
Rabbit is tasty but I would prefer that someone else cook it next time. Too many tiny bones and, yes, the whole rabbit is a little creepy to handle. (Memories of Mister Fluffy) I never had a pet chicken or salmon so those are easier to handle whole.
Posted by: Amanda C | February 21, 2010 12:11 PM
http://www.offalgood.com/videos/how-to-butcher-a-beef-heart
Posted by: turkeybone | February 21, 2010 1:29 PM
Ice cream for crow. Beefheart is under-rated.Strong meat indeed.
Posted by: Captain Beefheart | February 21, 2010 2:59 PM
I like at lot of offal, but have the Bambi thing, as well.
Chicken hearts are quite tasty (Bill Cosby routine, notwithstanding).
I had my first first foie gras (ducking) as the appetizer for my birthday dinner at Sabor. I thought I had died and gone to heaven.
Posted by: Rosebud | February 22, 2010 8:34 AM
This seems like a good place to ask a question that's been on my mind - what the heck do you use chicken feet for? My local Giant often has them and I find it very disturbing to see them in the meat case. More disturbing than pig's feet, not sure why.
Posted by: Tweety Cat | February 22, 2010 9:14 AM
Tweety Cat, my grandmother used them in her chicken soup. I assume because back in her day, you bought the whole chicken from the beak to feet.
I've also seen them served as Dim Sum so there are other cultures that enjoy them as well.
And, yes, no matter what you do with them, they still look like chicken feet. I don't find them as gross as head cheese though.
Posted by: Joyce W. | February 22, 2010 9:24 AM
Thanks Joyce. I've never been to Dim Sum, and now I'll think twice before I go!
Posted by: Tweety Cat | February 22, 2010 9:33 AM
Tweety Cat, chicken feet are also quite gelatinous, which helped to add body (and/or/if not flavor) to Joyce's grandmother's chicken soup.
Posted by: hmpstd | February 22, 2010 9:54 AM
You can tie up chicken feet with the whiskers of a black cat and leave it on the doorstep of your arch enemy.
Posted by: RayRay | February 22, 2010 10:26 AM
Re: "sous vide-ing."
I never contradict people who have very sharp knives near at hand.
Posted by: John McIntyre | February 22, 2010 10:29 AM
Whew! I always feel unworthy when the Real McIntyre appears.
Posted by: Owl Meat GreyV | February 22, 2010 12:44 PM
RayRay, leave my kitty's whiskers alone!
Posted by: Dahlink | February 22, 2010 4:44 PM
RayRay, maybe you could make a gris-gris for the protection of the blog.
Posted by: Laura Lee | February 22, 2010 5:24 PM
Dahlink,
I only use naturally shed whiskers collected from Kitty's down filled silk pillow. :-)
Posted by: RayRay | February 23, 2010 10:43 AM
Aww, how sweet RayRay!
Posted by: Trixie | February 23, 2010 11:27 AM
Well, okay, then ... but my kitties prefer my pillow!
Posted by: Dahlink | February 23, 2010 3:16 PM