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December 24, 2009

Richard reviews the Cornerstone Grille

BananaCookies.jpgAs a reviewer, I'm always happy when I discover something unexpected and good, and I can share it with you. I haven't talked to Other Reviewer Richard about his review of the Cornerstone Grille, but I imagine he feels the same way.

I got the best sense of what the place is like when he mentioned the cookies he sampled, banana cookies with a curl of dried banana on top baked by one of the owners. That's not something you find every day in a cafe near the Baltimore Truck Wash.

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:00 PM | | Comments (24)


Sorry, not related to this post. Just wanted to wish everyone a happy and safe holiday season.

I did enjoy the write up though RIchard!

Thanks for turning us on to a new place that doesn't have flacks, isn't a chain, makes an inexpensive crabcake (overlooking the sourcing) that doesn't shame us to visitors like Phillips, comes from local hard work and isn't in Harbor East. Previously, only truckers and Chinatown Bus riders knew this place.

Thank you both!

Score, Richard!

It's always been my opinion that meatloaf of the sea (crab cake) was diner food. Good diner food. It fails when it puts on airs and tries to be more than it is. Thank you for finding it's true place in the Universe.

Ditto about soft pretzels. Soft pretzels with stuff on them (like crab or sugary things) just makes me sad. Mustard is allowed. That's it.

From the menu description, the crabcakes are made with Asian crabmeat, not blue crab. At least they're not charging a lot for them, though.

enuncia acapulco

From the menu description, the crabcakes are made with Asian crabmeat, not blue crab.

Go, Hal. I wonder if people really can taste the difference in a crab cake. There will probably come a day when you never get blue crab in a crab cake. The trend against blue crab seems powerful, both economically and ecologically.

Somebody should have a blind taste test. Maryland crab cake is on menus all over the country. People may come to think that blue crab tastes funny compared to the "Maryland" crab cake they get at Spago in LA.

I wonder is anybody has considered how/if global warming is affecting blue crabs. I read an interesting article about how increased CO2 in the air leads to increased CO2 in ocean water which creates a more acidic environment which interferes with the shells on Pacific crabs.

If even a self-annointed promoter of local like John Shields admits using fake, the crustacean may have left the barn. Pappas, G&M and others with local followings will admit use of fake if asked directly. There are weasel ways for them to say fake, like South American and implying it's fresh and not pasteurized imported. What Shields told the WPost:

"As soon as I started serving [local crabmeat], people started sending it back, saying, 'This tastes fishy,' " said Shields, who also is chef at Gertrude's at the Baltimore Museum of Art. "I think for the last 15 years, almost every crab cake you've had in every restaurant has been Southeast Asian crabmeat. It's washed and bleached. That takes away a lot of the flavor."

I like Faidley's various crabcake, even the lower grades, where they have multiple streams of fresh for daily sale by the pound. And they're not weasels.

captcha: judge divine - faidley's co-owner is bill devine

Fascinating, chowsearch

Chowsearch, I fear you're right. That's what makes me so mad about what Phillips has done. They've essentially destroyed the Maryland crabcake.

economic Romance

Didn't I post something this summer on my crab blog about Philips getting a patent for a device that fporms fake lump meat? Yes, here's the link:

Talk about lack of respect for our pinchy friends.

Phillips is evil.

Zadrouga not

Wonder if that patent's been granted. If it's in an application or comment stage, maybe it can be objected to as not in the public interest or inherently fraudulent, maybe on behalf of the MD Waterman's Association. Phillips=Weasels. Long time since they were a nice group of Shore crabhouses by Brice and Shirley with Salisbury State student summer servers.
:Naught those:

chowsearch, I've been wondering the same thing. But I am unable to find a legal standard for lump crab meat. If there is no accepted definition of "real" lump, then how can we call anything "fake" lump?

Soft pretzels with stuff on them (like crab or sugary things) just makes me sad. Mustard is allowed. That's it.

What about the pretzel roll? I love the pretzel roll. Whenever I'm traveling and I cannot afford the time to stop for a meal, I will go to the Sheetz gas station for a Ham-zel and Pretzel sandwich. (ham and cheese on a pretzel roll) It's quite good.

I give the Ham-zel two GACKS. But if it has a hotdog and cheese in it I give it two thumbs up. The Amish market ones are good but the best come from Cross Street Market. And you can have a beer with it. or sushi, or oysters....I think you get the point.

Captcha: Thrilled board

I hope the board is thrilled with my comment!

A hot dog with cheese wrapped in a Pillsbury croissant is heavenly. I was excited to get a rotisserie chicken from the Amish Market today, but they were closed. We used Phillips crabmeat for Christmas appetizers -it was very tasty.

Hmm--shill or not?

Dahlink, if you're referring to the Anonymous who posted on December 26 at @ 7:19 PM, I don't think it's a shill, just somebody who has no sense of culinary taste whatever.

It was in interesting set of statements, each branded, each possibly ironically illogical; they may have been saying that Phillips sucks.

chowsearch, most of us can diss Phillips's Asian crabmeat without calling it "very tasty". There's a world of difference between, on the one hand, being (as you put it) "ironically illogical", and, on the other hand, just being a flaming idiot.

Thanks for the flaming insults. I just made my last post here.

NotableM, I apologize if comments about Phillips have made you feel bad. I know Phillips makes a credible case that if they used Bay crab for their retail and crabcake industrial production they would singlehandedly use up the entire output. At trade shows, I see the salespeople are earnest and dedicated. I understand the value to busy chefs of having usable material at hand without refrigeration and for $5/lb instead of $23. But when the company ads are written misleadingly as MARYLAND style BLUE swimmer CRABMEAT and the crabcakes served to our visitors at Harborplace taste sub-par, criticism is to be expected. I enjoyed and miss Brice and Shirley's Shore places, and I know the family story took a bad turn. I'm sorry circumstances have made us all feel bad. How about Phillips adding a premium line of locally sourced crabcakes endorsed by the MD. Waterman's Association?

just somebody who has no sense of culinary taste whatever.

Have you no sense of decency, sir, at long last? Have you left no sense of decency?

I am a Maryland crabcake.
Eat me.

cowhides and (My long lost cowsearch cousin name)

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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