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November 9, 2009

Yesteryear foods

Marconis2.jpg

 

Jacques Kelly had a good column Saturday on local foods that have vanished. These are foods that for the most part were even before my time. (I didn't move to Baltimore till I was married.)

Apropos of our discussion on organ foods, he mentions that Marconi's had three different sweetbread dishes on its menu! I hadn't remembered that.

(Sun file photo)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:23 PM | | Comments (8)
        

Comments

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. I love Jacques' columns.

"Their chocolate sundae could make you weep."

The man is a poet. A true, living Baltimore asset.

The "institutional memory" in Kelly, Rasmussen, Large, and Kasper are the last great treasures of The Baltimore Sun.

May they continue to thrive.

Baltimore wasn't always know for crabs, as a matter of fact thats pretty much a recent thing, it was know for a very long time for something else, terrapin soup. before the great fire of 1904 there was a world renouned hotel famous for it's terrapin soup, I cant remember the name of the place and i'm too tired to look it up!

barkeep77:
Are you thinking of the Rennert? That was one of Mencken's haunts.

And you're right:
Baltimore (and the whole Chesapeake Bay area) was also more widely and well known for its oysters. The Baltimore canning and tinning industry puts tons and tons of them up so they could be shipped. When the Civil War was fought around here, many soldiers from other states wrote home about the oysters. Bay pirates fought over them.

The crab was the "poor man's lobster."

Marconi's gave me my introduction to sweetbreads. I remember two versions--the Bordelais and the Sarah Bernhardt--but not a third. (I'm also not sure whether Marconi's sweetbreads were thymus or pancreas.)

CMAC - Ugh. Do you have to use the medical term of a body part. Things taste so much better when using a foreign word or a more delicate term. I'm more likely to eat escargots than snails. Sweetbreads just sound better.

I make it a point to read Jacques Kelly's column every week; he and Fred Rasmussen ARE Baltimore's memory. Was Fred born in a desk drawer at The Sun? He was writing obits when I worked there 40+ years ago. Could he be the latest incarnation of Dorian Gray?

Dottie
Agreed on on JK and FR seems like I remember FR way back in the old sepia tone magazine insert,,,along with AB photo's///"when to the session....."

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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