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November 14, 2009

More wine and food pairing

WineBottles4.jpg

 

The 750 mL wine blog has extended its pairing service, so if you still need help choosing a wine to go with what you plan to serve for Thanksgiving dinner (or for any meal) fill out the form in the link provided. Here's an example of what you'll get back. EL

I love the earthiness of eggplant, and the risotto provides a great slate for just about anything. Depending on the wine, you'll bring out different characteristics in the vegetable, so don't be afraid to experiment. Here are some ideas that I think will work particularly well. ...

RED
You're definitely headed down the right path with your love for cabernet. While most people would consider the varietal too heavy for vegetables, when you think about it, the texture of eggplant is a lot like that of large mushrooms, which go great with cab, and both vegetables have an earthiness that complements that wine. Plus, if you're preparing eggplant like I do, you're salting it heavily to leech out the bitterness before you cook it. That added salt helps you pair it with more aggressive red wines because of the interaction of salt and tannins.

That said, with no meat at all in this dish, I'd still like to be a little more delicate. While the more classic pairing is a fruity pinot noir, I'd suggest you explore the wines of southern and Provencal France, where dishes like this are quite common.

Look for Costieres de Nimes, an often overlooked and very affordable red from the Languedoc region of France. A warm climate produces meaty syrah, grenache, and carignane grapes with great fruitiness that still stay light on their feet. Many of these wines are not unlike more expensive syrah from neighboring Rhone.

You'll find deep blackberry flavors along with a gentle smokiness and, if you're lucky, flavors of black olives. Sometimes, they even taste like eggplant caponata themselves. Season your eggplant liberally with salt and Provencal herbs like thyme, rosemary, lavendar, and oregano.

Occassionally, Nimes will have a fair amount of tannic grip to it, which you don't want here, though I've rarely encountered such wines. If you like wines to be particularly light, then stick to simple and light pinot noirs. Anything labeled Bourgogne, Cote de Nuits, or Cote de Beaune should be under $20 and absolutely perfect with your dish.

WHITE
For whites, this is a bit of a blank slate, but I prefer something with at least a little richness to go with the risotto. While high-acid wines would do a good job of "cutting" into the creamy rice, I think you really want to complement and highlight that aspect of your dish instead. Turn to chardonnay, yes, but not your typical buttery mess from California.

Instead, I like the delicacy of French-oak-aged wines, which pick up a gentle vanilla flavor alongside the apply taste of chardonnay itself. If you're willing to splurge a little, look for Meursault from the Burgundy region of France. These dynamic wines come off rich without being overpowering and can often be had for about $30. For a similar flavor without the cost, find Macon from southern Burgundy. A bit lighter on its feet, but a steal at $15.

If you want to be a little more adventurous, I'll turn you to Italy, specifically Sardegna and Campania, coastal regions where large smatterings of vegetables are quite popular. Look for Fiano di Avellino, a mild, medium-bodied white reminiscent of pinot grigio without all the acid. Often these wines have notes of orange peel that I'd really like against your dish. Also good and a little more summery would be Vermentino. Northern Italy's not to be missed either, as they produce Gavi, a minerally wine based on the cortese grape that tastes lightly of honeyed handpull lager.

Let me know if you have any questions or need help deciding between particular bottles.

Enjoy your meal!

(Mike Clarke/AFP/Getty Images)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:27 AM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Comments

I really like rioja wine with seafood. You almost never go wrong.

I'd like to try the pairings of chocolates with wine/champagne. I saw a show about it on tv recently and it really looked like something I would enjoy.

Agreed on white Rioja with seafood. The viura and malvasia blends work well with just about anything second-worldly, and I especially like the wines from Muga. But while we're talking Spain, I always love the whites from Rueda, particularly the verdejos from Las Brisas and Bodegas Naia.

Joyce: Your options for pairing Champagne and chocolate are endless, but the subtle mistake people make sometimes is putting too sweet a chocolate next to too dry a wine.

Err on the sider of darker truffles and more pinot noir-based Champagne. I particularly like richer roses with chocolate and nothing could be more appropriate for the mood. Wines from Ay or Bouzy will blow your mind--particularly the Andre Clouet Rose and the Billecart-Salmon Rose.

And, if you're feeling a little ostentatious, La Grande Dame.

We've also recently come across a very full flavored, lightly sparkling pinot noir by Allendorf in the Rheingau that would be tremendous with chocolate.

thanks, 750 ml. Looking forward to testing your suggestions!

I know that photo is just a stock one, but that actually looks like a wine rack I could make! Anyone ever seen one like it or directions on how to make it... looks like some old wood with holes drilled in it... I'm sure I'm missing something though, and if I tried to put that up in the cellar I'd have a nice pile of broken wine bottles.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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