« Next Sunday's review: Grano | Main | Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Hell Point Seafood »

November 16, 2009

More buzz for a (somewhat) local restaurant

VoltBros.jpgIf there were any doubt about the popularity of Bravo's Top Chef, and the importance to your business of doing well on it if you're a contestant, a couple of current magazine issues would dispel it. I'm thinking of Entertainment Weekly (the holiday movie preview issue) and The Week, which condenses all the news in the universe into one thin magazine each week.

First, Entertainment Weekly's Shaw Report -- no, really, I subscribe to The Economist; my daughter gave me the heads up about this feature -- says the following:

"In: the Voltaggio brothers; Five Minutes Ago: the Simpson sisters;  Out: the Hough siblings."

Then in this week's The Week my review of Volt was condensed but given quite a bit of space. Somehow I don't think it was my brilliant writing that caught the eye of The Week's editors. (You may not be able to get to it with the link unless you're a subscriber, so I'll reproduce it here.) ...

The hottest restaurant in Baltimore isn’t in Baltimore, said Elizabeth Large in the Baltimore Sun. It’s Volt in Frederick, Md., 50 miles to the west. After chef-owner Bryan Voltaggio began appearing on Bravo’s Top Chef reality show this season, waiting times for reservations started stretching to weeks.

Although the New American cuisine can run to $75 a person and up, it’s “worth the trip and the cost.” The menu changes seasonally, and dishes are appealing “both intellectually and viscerally.” Meals begin with a chef’s canapé and fennel breadsticks. The first-course charcuterie plate is “a work of art” that shows the range of pork “from rillettes to headcheese.”

Among the entrées, the pork loin with fennel, plums, and Swiss chard makes you just “want to curl up and get cozy.” Another autumn offering is the guinea fowl “jauntily sharing space with a pretty bit of cabbage,” some parsnips, and warm Concord grapes. Perhaps the best dish, though, is the halibut accompanied by ruby quinoa, winter squash, and Marcona almonds.

Excuse me. I have a fascinating article about why banks are so averse to raising equity that I want to get back to now. 
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:25 AM | | Comments (6)


It looks like The Week's editors need some editors.

"Can run to $75 a person and up." Good grief.

The Simpson sisters are "five minutes ago?" Has anyone told Marge, Patty, and Selma?

Who are the Simpson sisters?

I'm showing my lack of pop culture knowledge, when I saw "The Hough siblings" I began to wonder who Charlie Hough's brother was.

Ted, I wondered how many here would get the reference to the "Hough siblings." You would get more heads nodding in recognition over at Reality Check. Personally, I miss Julianne on DWTS, but Derek is in the final four!

The Simpson sisters are more "in" than the Hough siblings?

Post a comment

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Sign up for FREE text alerts
Get free Sun alerts sent to your mobile phone.*
Get free Baltimore Sun mobile alerts
Sign up for dining text alerts

Returning user? Update preferences.
Sign up for more Sun text alerts
*Standard message and data rates apply. Click here for Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Food & Drink newsletter
Need ideas for dinner tonight? A recommendation for the perfect red wine?'s Food & Drink newsletter is there to help.
See a sample | Sign up

Stay connected