Black market restaurants
Have you heard about underground restaurants? The New York Times was writing about them over a year ago, so they aren't exactly news.
(I did a search to see if the Sun had written anything that I had missed. We hadn't, but one of the results was a story mentioning Subway.)
When I was looking at last year's list of this year's supposed trends from our restaurant consultants to see how many of them pertained (before I got too excited about next year's trends), I came across this: ...
There’ll be big growth in “black market” restaurants this year … one-night-only unlicensed dinner ventures staged by skilled home cooks (and occasional professionals) in warehouses, garages, cellars, vacant nightclubs and personal dining rooms. With ambitious menus, these dinners are by invitation only … word spreads via blogs, text messages, notices on Craigslist. ... “Gastronomic speakeasies” are mushrooming because: they offer a sense of adventure … sort of like slinking out to buy some cocaine; people are seeking alternatives to standard restaurant experiences; in some cases guests help prepare the meal; they get to meet like-minded foodies in unconventional surroundings; and they’re “sticking it to the man” by patronizing entrepreneurs who have no health department license, pay no taxes, insurance or social security to the cooks and waiters that these promoters hire for the event.
Underground restaurants or supper clubs may have mushroomed this year in New York or Los Angeles, but I haven't heard anything about them in this area, even in DC.And our Craigslist guru, turkeybone, hasn't pointed out any notices for them either.
But there is something naughty, romantic and appealing about the concept, isn't there? Except for the part about no health department license.
(Nanine Hartzenbusch/Sun photographer)








Comments
Bourdain did a show on this phenom not long ago. I think it was in San Fran, but not completely sure. It was a "club" made up of fellow chefs who made a sort of pot luck dinner. I remember that I was rather unimpressed with the one course that had Pop Rocks in it.
However, I was dazzled by the hidden in a baby's diaper and smuggled into the country unpasturized cheese from France.
Vive le fromage!
Posted by: Joyce W. | November 11, 2009 7:11 AM
When I heard black market restaurant, I figured it would be a place serving up various endangered species. Eagle egg omelets, bog turtle soup or whale kabobs on ivory skewers would all be on the menu.
Posted by: Robert of Cross Keys | November 11, 2009 7:52 AM
Baltimore Foodies ran an underground dinner this past summer. An article appeared in the November issue of Style magazine detailing it. We do plan on doing another one in the Spring.
Posted by: BaltFoodie | November 11, 2009 8:47 AM
There are also a number of "black market" coffee vendors.
Posted by: Chock Fulla Nuts | November 11, 2009 8:48 AM
When I heard underground restaurants I was thinking a feast in the Hall of the Mountain King or a banquet in Ali Baba's cave. Or a Dinner at the Center of the Earth. Maybe a cuppa coffee in the Jean Valjean Cafe. Or a burger at the Little Cavern. A descent Beneath the Planet of the Crepes. Bananas Flambe Under the Volcano. An enchanted wine cellar.
Or at least, pizza and beer in somebody's club basement.
Posted by: Laura Lee | November 11, 2009 10:38 AM
Point to Laura Lee!
Posted by: Hal Laurent | November 11, 2009 10:50 AM
Laura Lee, if any of those places come to Baltimore, I'm so there!
I don't think I'd enjoy Grendal's mother's home cooking, though.
Posted by: Lissa | November 11, 2009 12:41 PM
Alas, the last Little Cavern closed awhile back.
Posted by: Hal Laurent | November 11, 2009 12:59 PM
Oh yeah, that's what I want to do when I eat. Go to some unlicensed stranger and eat food from his uninspected kitchen. Does the cook have any idea of safe handling of food? Is that deadly nightshade or a more innocuous mushroom. Who knows? And I trust this guy, why? Because he's a "foodie"? Even if that were enough, how do I know?
It's bad enough that the standard for meat inspection has fallen off so much in this country, without adding another layer of taking my health and flinging it to the wind.
Posted by: Cheap Jim | November 11, 2009 1:05 PM
I take it Cheap Jim has never been to a dinner party.
Posted by: BA | November 11, 2009 2:32 PM
Thanks Hal. The Club LT was subterranean even above ground.
Posted by: chowsearch | November 11, 2009 2:55 PM
However, I was dazzled by the hidden in a baby's diaper and smuggled into the country unpasturized cheese from France.
One of my favorite "I Love Lucy" episodes!
Posted by: Anonymous | November 11, 2009 3:07 PM
Kids these days, right Cheap Jim?
Posted by: whippersnapper | November 11, 2009 4:49 PM
In the mid 1990's there was a place like that run by anarchists in Mount Vernon. They had a string of lights outside, if the lights were green the place was open, if red, closed. The food was vegan and delicious. They closed when too many people in the neighborhood found out about them and serving food became more of a chore than a pleasure. So that trend is at least a decade old.
Posted by: mobtown999 | November 11, 2009 4:51 PM
Is there any connection between the old Anarchist Cafe and Red Emma's? Are any of the players the same?
Posted by: Robert of Cross Keys | November 11, 2009 5:39 PM
Of course, the best anarchist dining film of all time is "Eat the Rich."
Posted by: Lissa | November 11, 2009 7:10 PM
Beneath the Planet of the Crepes
It was all well and good until the last one, when Caesar leads the revolt founding the French nation. Sure, the series had long jumped the shark by then, but one could at least still hold out hope.
Posted by: El Generalissimo | November 11, 2009 8:21 PM
A dinner party, that's someone I know. I know who they are, a good idea of their general cleanliness, and I've probably been in their kitchen. We're talking a restaurant here. Do I know everyone in the kitchen? Not in most restaurants I've been in.
Oh, and don't get me started about the kids with the weird hair and the molecular gastronomy and the *faugh*!
Posted by: Cheap Jim | November 11, 2009 8:52 PM
"Does the cook have any idea of safe handling of food?"
Hey Cheap Jim have you ever seen how food is handled in many restaurants? I was a manager, many years ago, for Marriott's "Hot Shoppes" in DC. The first Shoppe I worked at was located on 14th and G. The HS was on 14th, Marriott's Sirloin & Saddle steak house was on G. They had a common kitchen. When I was in training I dropped a steak on the floor, a very dirty, greasy floor. I retrieved it and tossed it in the trash can. The S&S manager saw me do it and went nuts, made me dig the slimy steak out of the trash, and put it on the grill. Food Cost is what it's all about. If a piece of meat had been in the walk-in box too long, and developed a strong odor, you rinsed it off with vinegar and cooked it. Now true, this was 40 years ago but I don't think much has changed.
Posted by: Jack Ziegler | November 11, 2009 10:19 PM
Things are that bad, eh? And how much worse would they be without health inspection? You're making my argument for me, Jack.
Posted by: Cheap Jim | November 12, 2009 8:48 AM
They had health inspectors, but many were on the take. They would overlook many incidents.
My point is a Black Market Restaurant is probably not much different then many regular restaurants
Posted by: jack Ziegler | November 13, 2009 2:02 AM
2:12 and 2:13 are spam. Of course. Appropriate next to a discussion of men on the take, I guess.
I mean, after a certain point, size is painful!
Posted by: Lissa | November 27, 2009 5:55 AM