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November 7, 2009

Are diners looking for value or deals?

PrimeRibValue.jpg

 

One interesting thing to come out of of my post on dining trends for 2010 a few days ago was that another restaurant consultant jumped into the fray.

My finger hovered over the delete button because it felt like spam to me, but I finally decided to let the comment stay because there is some truth in what he had to say.

Or is there? I still can't quite decide.  ...

Here's Jeffrey Summer's response to a statement by the original consultants that they would tell us "How the downturn has altered consumer expectations and what it will take to lure ... diners out of their economic storm shelters. ":

This is the biggest myth to come out of journalists and businesses who just don't get it. The 'downturn' didn't do anything but amplify the ever increasing expectations of consumers across the board. And there's no such thing as "...luring diners out of their economic storm shelters.." because they don't exist. The recalibration of the consumer's mind was underway long before the economy went south. Operators who do not understand that past levels of spending won't return anytime soon or that the consumer isn't looking for deals as much as they are value, will be left behind.

My guess is that if you ask 100 potential restaurant customers if they are looking for value when they go out  -- and were even before the recession started -- 99 of them would say yes. The other one would say no just to be annoying.

But the reality is that before the economy went south, an awful lot of people were ordering $40 entrees and $12 mixed drinks, even at restaurants where you would be hard pressed to defend the food as "good value."

A $12 martini is never a good value to me -- not saying it isn't fun to order one anyway if you have the cash.

I have no hard facts to back up my feeling that people are living it up a lot less now. Certainly many of the recent closings suggest that. But I do know that restaurants are offering deals to lure customers in.

I'll use the example of the Prime Rib. I got a press release from Baltimore's premier steak house saying that it had had a great year this year in spite of the recession.

Even so, the Prime Rib has started offering various deals, including a half-price wine list on Sundays and a three-course meal for $30.09.  I don't think it would be doing that if giving good value were all you had to do to draw in customers these days.

(Photo by Brendan Cavanaugh/special to the Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:31 AM | | Comments (23)
        

Comments

WOW!! I don't care if this is spam if the deal at the Prime Rib is for real! For that price, I'm thinking "Tuesday" is enough of an occasion. Off to check their website!

I think you answered the question with your $12 martini, EL.
While the martini alone can't fulfill the value relative to the price, ancillary intangibles, such as being seen among those who can overpay without blinking, the frisson of power that accompanies indulgence, exclusive ambience, etc., all totalled, can in flush times make that pricey see-through seem a bargain.
And if Mr. Summers is correct, then perhaps the cost of indulenge became too dear for our consumer psyches and we could no longer bear to ride the bull.

Mr. Summers's assertion that consumer expectations were declining before the economy went south is not entirely accurate. The Consumer Confidence Index hit its most recent peak of about 110 in June 2007. In that month, the subprime mortgage crisis started when Bear Stearns had to prop up two of its hedge funds. Since then, the drastic decline in consumer confidence (down to 47.7 in October 2009) has gone in lockstep with the never-ending bad news about the economy.

Consumers are more willing to keep up with the Joneses (whether by ordering high-priced meals or by buying that nice car or that McMansion) when they think that the Joneses are also to afford it. Once the neighbors stop wild spending, consumers are bound to get more realistic, and conservative, in their spending habits. Goodbye, McMansion -- hello, Mickey D's.

I think that's a great point and it explains why Belvedere Square is always packed, even though nothing there is what I'd call underpriced.

I far prefer value, but I'll settle for a deal. I realized this as I was eating my $1 meatball dinner at IKEA. I don't actually like their meatballs (although the lingonberry jam rocks). But, hey, a meatball dinner for a buck - how could I pass that up?

When I go out for a special occasion I am looking for quality, and I expect to pay for it. The Prime Rib is an example of such a place.

When I go out for a regular meal I am looking for value and or a deal at a lower price. Maybe Ocean Pride or Pappas.

When it's just a quick bite I want cheap, maybe a diner or 5 Guys.

Is a value meal a value or a deal? And does the answer change if I supersize it?

A value meal is neither, if you are talking about McDonald's, RoCK.

Was treated to dinner at a rural north Baltimore County restaurant last weekend and the bill was close to $800 for 10 people, drinks and tip included. I thought it was by far one of the best meals I've had in years. The food was sublime. Service was nonpariel. The place was packed. All of those observations are essentially meaningless because I paid nothing. Would I be more critical if I had had to pony up my $160 for my wife and me? Would it have been the same experience? Something tells me not, but here's the real question: How do food critics do it?

I want to know what the restaurant was. :-) EL

Robert Gourmet, I fail to see your point. There's a vast difference between between treated to a meal by a friend (presumably in your case) by by a boss (as in EL's case) and being treated to a meal by a restaurateur. Food critics for newspapers and magazines have long been able to turn in impartial reviews.

If you're feeling guilty about getting a free meal, pony up the $160 and send it to your friend. Then you can rave (or rant) as much as you like without guilt.

I'm having trouble thinking of a rural north Baltimore County restaurant that could fit that description. Maybe the Manor Tavern, although if so it's improved since I was last there decades ago.

hmpstd:
Let's leave food critics out of it, since they are acting in a paid, professional capacity.

I think you got my point exactly. (Food critics aside.)

You said: "There's a vast difference between between treated to a meal by a friend (presumably in your case) by by a boss (as in EL's case) and being treated to a meal by a restaurateur."

Precisely. A vast difference. But what is that difference?(Food critics aside.)

My point is that, in that instance, I had nothing to complain about. (Nothing ventured, nothing gained.)(Food critics aside.)

If I pay for the very expensive meal, aren't I naturally likely to be a LOT more critical of the food, service, film on the water glass, etc.? (Food critics aside.)

You acknowledge that fact yourself when you say that if I pay, I get to "rant... without guilt." (Food critics aside.)

It's all about degrees of perception...(Food critics aside.)

The old German proverb had it right: "Whose bread I eat, his song I sing." (Food critics aside.)

I can drink three or four $12 martinis...if somebody else is buying. (Food critics aside.)


I didn't want to come off as a shill, EL & Hal.
The initials are the The Milton Inn.

The Milton Inn

Ah, I didn't think of the Milton Inn. I don't really think of Sparks as "north Baltimore County", although it certainly is compared to Essex or Dundalk.

Oh, I'd consider Sparks to be in northern Baltimore County.

Anything north of the Urban-Rural Demarcation Line (URDL)at Hunt Valley falls into Northern Baltimore County.

Another definition for Northern Baltimore County is the Hereford Zone, which Sparks is a part of.

FLIRV, Prime Rib emailed me in early September that they were extending "Restaurant Weeks" into the fall. I made a reservation for our anniversary, 10/8, and we dined from the RW menu. It was absolutely delicious and a terrific value. The only sour note was that a Manhattan and a Dubonnet rocks cost $10 each, and my husband's post-dinner Drambuie was $12. Whew ... now I know where they make their money, and why they can afford to extend the RW menu.

Robert Gourmet, with all due respect, you brought up the subject of food critics in your 4:55 PM post, so it's a bit ingenuous for you now to claim that you wanted to leave food critics out of the discussion from the start.

I think you also also missed my point when I observed that you appeared to feel guilt about posting criticism on a blog merely because the meal had been paid for by a friend. Food can be good or bad, and service can be good or bad, regardless of the identity of the person who's paying for the meal. I believe a number of rants have been posted on D@L by persons who didn't pay for their meals (whether birthday honorees, business meeting attendees, or wedding reception guests).

If I were taking somebody else out to dinner, then as the host paying the bill, I'd certainly want to know if my guests were less than entirely pleased with the dinner. You ought to have no problem letting your host, or this blog, know the honest truth about your dining experience.

hmpstd: I was trying to be respectful of OUR host, EL, not (dis)ingenuous. Sorry.

We're apparently missing each other's points, then. It's a PERCEPTUAL difference, in my opinion. I had a great meal. I had a wonderful dining experience. We all did. We told our host as much. What was not to like? But your last paragraph proves my point: as the person paying the tab, you have a heightened sense of value vs. deal, the point of this blog entry...

Had I been paying, though, my gastronomic-consumer meter might have been a bit more sensitive. I'm just sayin'.

I think Robert Gourmet makes an interesting point about expectations. No doubt when I'm paying for a meal I'm working the cost-benefit analysis in my head. The food may be good, but is it worth it.

When someone else is paying, I'm able to judge the meal without having to account for the economic trade-off angle.

This reminds me of a great economics class I had in college where the teacher was trying to get us to understand the orgins of value and whether it is objective or subjective. It was far more interesting than just some diamonds and water analogy. He tied in everything from Plato to St. Augustine to Led Zepplin.

Like Plato said, "A good decision is based on knowledge and not on numbers." And I always ponder Augustine's views on original sin when buying a caraway muffin.

I was thinking Oregon Ridge. Maybe that's not rural enough?

The whole issue of "value" has come up before and it is so subjective because it is based on every individual's budget.

I'm really glad I didn't do Plato's taxes for him.

Which of Augustine's views on original sin, Laura Lee? He kept changing his mind.

Plotline for Nurse Jackie: St Augustine "make me good, god; but not yet."

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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