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September 10, 2009

Richard reviews Howard's Delly

HowardsDelly.jpgSometimes having to write about small, unassuming little restaurants brings out the best in a reviewer. That's what happened today when Other Reviewer Richard reviewed Howard's Delly of Mount Vernon.

I laughed out loud at this:

"We heard it got a little fancy. That could have meant anything in Mount Vernon, from 'they put in an oxygen bar' to 'they emptied the grease trap.'" 

(Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:11 PM | | Comments (9)
        

Comments

My, he did do a good job with that review. I haven't been in since the renovation (although it certainly sounds like a place I should hit pre-BSO some time), but it is my go-to place for a braunschwieger sandwich to go when I'm in that neck of the woods. It sounds like it is even better now.

Don't whole rashers of bacon in an omelet become egg-battered bacon strips? Sounds good to me.

I was in the old neighborhood last night, and I walked by Howard's. I did a double take. I hardly recognized the old place where I used to buy scrapple, egg and cheese sandwiches that I would share with my dog.

The spelling "delly" sets my teeth on edge. It's "deli", as in short for "delicatessen." I might be missing out some good meals, but I just can't patronize a place that does that.

I know what you mean about the spelling, JP, but it's a Baltimore thing, isn't it? I have never seen a "delly" anywhere but here. The better to rhyme with belly, I guess.

Seems odd to avoid a restaurant because of the way they spell their name. People sometimes spell their names in weird or affected ways - do you avoid them as well?

Sincerely,

Steev

Howard's is across the street from where I work and we've been going about once a week since it opened. I can say that the review, in my opinion, made it seem that the menu was simply "updated". Not true at all. They're doing some really nice food in there these days, right down to homemade sauces and salad dressings. They have a grilled italian sandwich to die for, local sausage, nice pasta dishes and bring in a smoker from time to time just to shake things up. Put it this way, he doesn't make toast for his sandwiches; he has his own sauce he spreads on the bread then fries it.

I hate sounding like a shill, but the food kicks ass, the price is surprisingly reasonable and the owner/chef is behind the counter and loves feedback. It's the sort of place that deserves a look, in my opinion, from people like us who care about food. New Howard's is related to old Howards in name only.

had to get some business done recently over on eutaw street, so walked a couple blocks to Howards; i had never been there before.
i was so impressed with the look of the pasta primavera i ordered, that i took a cell phone photo of it, as well as of the courtyard in which i sat and ate it, and sent it to DW.
The food was great, the courtyard is a lovely, tranquil setting, which restored my soul (after trudging the soul-less halls of power).
The clincher: i was dying for a glass of wine (c'mon, it's pasta).
the nice waiter said they only had wine they used for cooking, but i could walk a block or so & get a bottle; not feasable; when he brought the water, i "whined" again; within a few minutes, he comes
back, with a nice glass of sav blanc for me, from the owner....i ordered a 2nd glass as a thank-you ;~}
i Love this Place!!

We checked out Howards mid-afternoon on Sunday for pancakes. The owner and staff were very friendly. It was obvious that they have some repeat business. The restaurant was not crowed at 2 pm; however, It took ages to get our pancakes and that was after complaining to the owner. My partner's orange juice tasted like Tang. The pancakes were great. The sausage was horrible and hard as a rock. While we were there, a "customer" came in with his dog. This was not a service animal. The dog plopped on the floor and almost the entire staff spent time petting the dog. Even the cook came out from behind the counter and bent down to pet the animal and placed his face next to the dog's face. The cook rubbed his hands (after playing with the dog), on his shirt. He washed his hands when he went back to the cooking area; howeve, I'm sure his shirt and face did not get a washing.
This was not just a walk the dog in and leave. The customer sat at the counter and it became a social hour.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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