baltimoresun.com

« Looking for a job in a restaurant? | Main | Rehabbing with bison, truffles and trout »

September 18, 2009

Wine and the cycles of the moon

BiodynamicWine.jpgToday's topic, boys and girls, is biodynamic wines. "Biodynamic" refers to methods of growing grapes and producing wine that involve ethical and spiritual considerations.

The ethical I'm OK with, the spiritual not so much.

I'm trying very hard not to be snarky about this because several restaurants whose owners I respect are putting them on their wine lists. These are the restaurants that stress green, organic, local, seasonal and all those other good things. But the concept of biodynamic agriculture does feel a little like, say, copper bracelets as a cancer treatment.

Or as our waiter at a restaurant I went to recently put it, "It has something to do with planting according to the cycles of the moon or something." ...

I'm going to reprint what Wikipedia says, quoting from The Wineanorak's Guide, "Biodynamic Wine."  Then I'm going to open the floor to anyone who can explain why this isn't as hokey as it seems to be. I'm anxious to hear the arguments for the other side.

Of course, I would also be convinced if someone whose judgment I trust just said, "It sounds crazy, but it produces great wine."  I would like to be enough of connoisseur to be able tell you personally whether it does or not, but I'm not.

Here's Wikipedia on biodynamic viticulture:

Preparing a vineyard for biodynamic grape growing consists of several preparations:

Preparation 500 - Cow manure is buried in cow horns in the soil. The manure is then spread over the fields.

Preparation 501 - Ground quartz is buried in cow horns in the soil. The quartz is sprayed over the vines.

Preparation 502 - Yarrow flowers are fermented in a deer's bladder, then applied to the compost.

Preparation 503 - Chamomille flowers are fermented in the soil, then applied to the compost.

Preparation 504 - Stinging nettle tea is applied to the compost.

Preparation 505 - Oak bark fermented in the skull of a domestic animal is applied to the compost.

Preparation 506 - Dandelion flowers fermented in cow mesentery is applied to the compost.

Preparation 507 - Valerian flower juice is applied to the compost.

Preparation 508 - Horsetail tea is applied to the vines.


(Photo of biodynamic wines courtesy of French Wines Online)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:04 AM | | Comments (25)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Comments

When tasting a fine wine, I often think...complex, full bodied, great legs...but...

needs more cow horns!

Preparation 509: Baba ganoush aged in the skull of a healthcare townhall meeting shouter is spread over the compost.

Everything you listed has its purposed rooted in the natural sciences...not spirituality...so I'm not sure where your doubt comes into play. The applications are about enriching the soil, creating an environment that is biodynamically diverse, and letting nature take care of its own. Where is the spirituality in that? No one is leaving offerings to a pantheon of long-forgotten idols for pete's sake. Enjoy the wine and be happy it's making less of an impact on our earth...that's all.

Sorry, I was giving the abbreviated version. I love this quote: "Ray Isle, managing editor of Wine & Spirit magazine, says, 'So what if they also think burying cow horns full of manure will help them channel new life forces from the cosmos?'" Sounds spiritual to me. EL

The grapes are pressed by barefoot Apache dancers from the Montmartre district of Paris
while a naif waif paraphrases Piaf by warbling "La Vin en Rose."

Do the bottles also have little crystals hanging around their necks?

Sounds like they should call it Voodoo wine.

Is feng shui still considered to be in fashion by those in the know?

(I'm far too gauche to keep up with these things)

Toad Liver is mixed with Ox blood, and the eye of a three legged ferret and applied to the compost.

AHEHEHEHE

Cow horns aside, the general practice of biodynamics largely overlaps standard organic farming principles. From the April issue of the Urbanite:

"It’s easy to get sidetracked by the mystical (or kooky, depending on your perspective) aspects of biodynamics and overlook what even skeptics acknowledge as strengths of the approach. If nothing else, biodynamics demands a pretty rigorous effort on the part of the farmer to establish and maintain a close connection to the land."

(http://www.urbanitebaltimore.com/sub.cfm?issueID=71§ionID=4&articleID=1197)

I'm not saying you'll necessarily be able differentiate the taste of wine made with biodynamic vs. organic vs. neither-of-the-above methods, but for foodies who claim to value artisanal production, it's not such a huge leap.


Maybe somebody should check someplace besides Wikipedia.

don't forget the eye of newt!

There was a post on Midnight Sun by our friend Owl Meat called "I don't like Moon-days", May 25, 2009. In it, he quotes some scientists interviewed by The Guardian about the spiritual origins of biodynamics.

Here's the link to the OMG post he/she is talking about. EL

I appreciate the skepticism as I grew up in a family that use dangerous chemicals daily and science could save or kill you.

Just a little something to offset the ridicule: master gardeners will show you in their field notes, not their opinions, that the cycles of the moon affect yield concerning planting and harvesting cycles.

More importantly, there is something most of the comments above do not seem to know anything about that could explain some of this mystery: microbes.

In the past twenty years organic gardening and its science has shown that we presumed it was only chemicals in the soil, things we could mix and add, that made it produce.

That is not true. There is a level of life, mostly microbial and invisible, that creates and renews topsoil. If you look at the "deers bladder" or most of the other things, they contain friendly microbes. That is probably where the first cheese was discovered, for instance. A sheep's stomach might have produced it being used as a milk bottle.

So, look at the copius notetaking of master gardeners, familiarize yourself with the new PHD level work on the effect of friendly nematodes, plankton, bacteria, earthworms and even friendly viruses; and also think, "ITS ABOUT THE MICROBES, STUPID." Then we can all laugh, as it does sound crazy even if based on something sensible!

Thanks. That makes sense. I'm totally with organic wines, but this did sound nutty. And, of course, that wouldn't matter if we weren't paying more, which I presume we are. EL

Jeez ... no wonder no one calls their local Episcopal priest to bless vineyards anymore. Most of us still keep Rogation Sunday (five Sundays after Easter) but our rites are limited to a fancy dress procession and some cool prayers. We gotta get with it!

My concern is where are all those cow horns going to come from? Have a look at my take on it on my blog Wilf's Wine Press at:
http://wwpress.blogspot.com/2009/07/stop-tooting-your-horn-about-biodynamic.html

Would I rather have wine made by a vinter who believes in stuff that sounds like voodoo or by a huge conglomerate that mechanically harvets the grapes, modifies the wine in a lab and transports it in tanker trucks? I'll take the voodoo.

Black Ankle Vineyards in Mt Airy apparently practices biodynamics. And they produce GOOD wine, something I've had a hard time saying about any other Maryland wineries. Their white wines - Albarino, Viognier, Bedlam (a blend) were all quite nice. Reds weren't bad, either.

So - not sure if it's the cow horn or stinging nettles, but in my limited exposure - the results are good!

I am not that informed but didn't all farmers in ancient times use the sun/moon as a time keeper. That is why our holidays fall around pagan holidays and planting and harvest times (easter, thanksgiving, christmas, halloween). So what is kooky with people doing that today?

Sarah and farmers still do that as the seasons are what dictate their practices. However, few use the practice as a marketing tool.

What happened to Preparations 1 through 499? To be honest, when I saw the list of Preparations the picture that came to my mind was that of Lonesome Polecat and Hairless Joe around a bubbling cauldron, with Lonesome Polecat saying "Kickapoo Joy Juice needs more body. Throw in body." I am by no means a wine expert. My question is whether it makes the wine taste 'better.' And 'better,' like beauty is in the eyes of the beholder (or in this case, taster).

What happened to Preparations 1 through 499?

What happened to Preparations A through G?

Or Heinz 1 through 56?

Could it be that biodynamic is merely tony terroir repackaged for the organic/green crowd who think anything that isn't handmade, homemade, or local is inherently evil?

They are a lot of seconds for births!!!

What a waste of good cow's horns.

So . . . if the process requires horns . . . does that make the wine cuckolded? Cuckold wine?

Shakespeare would love it.

Post a comment

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About Elizabeth Large
Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic, blogs about memorable meals, dining trends, comings and goings on the restaurant scene and more.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews
Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Baltimore area restaurant closures and inspections
Search our database of restaurant closures and inspections by the Health Department

Local produce
Search our map for farmers' markets, find recipes and share tips

Takeout reviews
This week's menu:
Stay connected