Second-string chefs
Now that I've written over 2,800 blog entries, you would think there are no new topics. But every time I think that, someone proves me wrong.
Federal Hill Jim recently sent me an e-mail raising an interesting question I wish I'd thought of before. It's certainly something I've wondered about. Here's what he said: ...
Comments by Gorelick and one of your posters about Harbor Que -- together with my own experiences there -- raise an interesting but perhaps unanswerable question. We all noted a quality difference on multiple visits. That is not a unique experience.
I remember decades ago, when Szechwan was one of the best Chinese restaurants in town, having a terrible meal there on a Sunday evening. And last year when we went to Antrim for a long weekend to celebrate Chris' 60th birthday we were disappointed in the food because, we discovered belatedly, Michael Gettier was on vacation.
I realize at some restaurants the named chef is not the principal cook...and at others a talented sous chef can maintain the boss' standards (the old Abacrombie). But how often are people let down by dining unaware that the second team is at the stove? Might be worth an interesting discussion while you're next on vacation.
(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)
Comments
2,800+
Bravo.
Well, thanks. :-) EL
Posted by: jl | August 1, 2009 8:31 AM
Two chef friends commented that they were recently dining at one of b-more's best restaurants and the owner/chef was away. They felt that the food and service weren't up to par, and it was because of the chef's absence.
Posted by: Pigtown | August 1, 2009 8:59 AM
It's the job of the chef to make sure that the second string is as good as the first.. just because its Tuesday or whatever is not an excuse for bad food.
Now of course, especially in a town like Baltimore, this isnt always the case, there is only so much talent actually out there. And in reality it might not even be the chef at all who is the anchor in a kitchen, depends on the place.
Posted by: 2nd string | August 1, 2009 9:41 AM
I was at Tersiguel's the other day, and I had the chef's tasting menu. Now, the head chef was in that night, so the tasting menu reflected his ideas; however, the staff told me that when the head chef is off the tasting menu is developed by the sous chef. What makes this interesting is that the head chef there has a more traditonal French background, while the sous chef has Czech background.
Posted by: Robert of Cross Keys | August 1, 2009 11:50 AM
RoCK, it seems like there should be a joke in there about a background czech.
Posted by: Hal Laurent | August 1, 2009 2:09 PM
I wonder if this explains the difference in the Asparagus and Ham in Mornay sauce at Pairings that EL and I had such differing opinions on. If a junior chef is running lunch service while the chef is running dinner, there may be some differences in preparation.
Posted by: The Canon | August 1, 2009 3:08 PM
2,800+ Bravo.
How many were about crabs?
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy | August 1, 2009 4:05 PM
yeah -- no way in hell an exec is doing lunch service
Posted by: 2nd string | August 2, 2009 12:11 AM