baltimoresun.com

« Welcome to some new voices | Main | The demise of fine dining »

August 27, 2009

How to navigate an upscale menu

TruffleOil.jpgFrank Bruni wrote his last column as restaurant critic for the New York Times yesterday.

A lot of it isn't very useful to Baltimoreans (unless you're planning a trip to New York), but one section amused me -- and both Multimedia Editor(ish) Mary and ryan97ou, who separately pointed it out to me before I got this entry written.

It seems to have struck a chord with all of us: ...

IS THERE ANY BEST, SAFEST WAY TO NAVIGATE A MENU?

Scratch off the appetizers and entrees that are most like dishes you’ve seen in many other restaurants, because they represent this one at its most dutiful, conservative and profit-minded. The chef’s heart isn’t in them.

Scratch off the dishes that look the most aggressively fanciful. The chef’s vanity — possibly too much of it — spawned these.

Then scratch off anything that mentions truffle oil.

Choose among the remaining dishes.

This reminds me that I completely forgot to watch Bruni on Nightline. Did anyone, and how was the interview?

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:59 AM | | Comments (5)
        

Comments

I watched the outtake where he reviewed a choco-taco online. It was a riot. I think they linked it on Slashfood.

simply touch the server gently and ask, "what's good?"

unbelievaboh, i just snorted out of my nose when i read that.

We just returned from a trip where the server was delightfully, painfully honest. She called the Panini of the Day "bland and small."

Point to Unbelievaboh,! (Maybe CotW?)

Post a comment

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Sign up for FREE text alerts
Get free Sun alerts sent to your mobile phone.*
Get free Baltimore Sun mobile alerts
Sign up for dining text alerts

Returning user? Update preferences.
Sign up for more Sun text alerts
*Standard message and data rates apply. Click here for Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Food & Drink newsletter
Need ideas for dinner tonight? A recommendation for the perfect red wine? Baltimoresun.com's Food & Drink newsletter is there to help.
See a sample | Sign up

Stay connected