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August 31, 2009

Let them eat artisanal cake

Much as I love the whole eat-local movement and respect Alice Waters, the opinion piece from the Los Angeles Times that MrRational linked to in a comment had me rolling on the floor. In case you're one of those readers who skips the comments, here's the part of it that pertained to food. It's by Charlotte Allen. EL

Some people might worry about the effect on recession-hit families of a 17% increase in the price of milk, but not Alice Waters, the food-activist owner of Berkeley's Chez Panisse restaurant, who shudders at the thought of sampling so much as a strawberry that hasn't been nourished by organic compost and picked that morning at a nearby farm -- and thinks everyone else in America should shudder too. "Make a sacrifice on the cellphone or the third pair of Nike shoes," Waters airily informed the New York Times in April. ...

Echoing Waters was her fellow Berkeley food guru, Michael Pollan, professor of science journalism (a hot field for social critics, obviously) at UC Berkeley. Pollan (no relation to Robert Pollin) is the author of the best-selling "Omnivore's Dilemma" and coiner of the mantra "Eat food, not too much, mostly plants" that is on the lips of every foodie from Bainbridge Island to Martha's Vineyard. Pollan, too, rejoiced at the idea of skyrocketing prices for groceries, hoping they might "level the playing field for sustainable food that doesn't rely on fossil fuels."

Pollan also hoped that rising prices might constitute another weapon in his ongoing war against his agribusiness villain of choice: corn. Corn is a plant, of course, and thus should theoretically rank high on Pollan's list of permissible edibles. But it is also the basis of such dubious items as snack chips, Coca-Cola (high-fructose corn syrup, godfather of obesity) and suspiciously plentiful beef (corn-fed).

Pollan is a "locavore," one of those people who believe that in order to be truly ethical, you should eat only foods grown or killed within your line of sight (for me, that would be my neighbor's cat). He once described a meal he made consisting of a wild boar shot by him in the hills near his Bay Area home and laboriously turned into pate, plus bread leavened by yeast spores foraged from his backyard.

Lately, Pollan has set his sights on Häagen-Dazs ice cream, not because it contains corn syrup (it doesn't) but because it's a commercially made product, and if there's one thing Pollan hates, it's commerce. His latest pronunciamento: "Don't buy any food you've ever seen advertised."

Demanding that other people impoverish themselves, especially these days, in the name of your pet cause -- fostering craftsmanship, feeling "connected" to the land, "living more lightly on the planet" or whatever -- goes way beyond Marie Antoinette saying "let them eat cake." It's more like Marie Antoinette dressing up in her shepherdess costume and holding court in a fake rustic cottage at the Petit Trianon.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:55 PM | | Comments (27)
        

Silver Palate Cookbook author dies

Sheila Lukins, the author of the Silver Palate Cookbook and many others, has died of brain cancer at age 66. Thanks to John McIntyre for sending me the link to the NPR story.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 PM | | Comments (7)
        

Next Sunday's review: Pizzazz Tuscan Grille

PizzazzTuscanGrille.jpgNext Sunday I review Pizzazz Tuscan Grille, the newest restaurant in the Pier V Hotel. It's an unusual concept because Italian pasta and pizza don't always go hand in hand with highly nutritious food. But the owner is trying. Prices are right, and it's cute as a button. Not to mention that great deck overlooking the water.

However, I worry about any restaurant in that space that's trying to attract a dinner crowd. Even if it does everything right, it's still contending with the fact that it's so tucked away, and parking is expensive.

The two things that may save it are a) people stopping there for a bite after work before they get their cars out for the commute home and b) the folks who now live in the area because of Harbor East. If Pizzazz can lure folks away from all the restaurants in Harbor East proper, that is.

(Tasha Treadwell/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:47 PM | | Comments (26)
Categories: Review Preview
        

What shall we talk about next?

ParksideShrimp.jpgThanks to all of you who helped me out on the live chat. There were enough questions/comments posted before it started that Carla could handle the flow better (she has to read them all for, let's say appropriateness, before she posts them).

I should have waited to make up the poll until part way through the chat, though, because I would have definitely included Mama's on the Half Shell and a couple of others you mentioned.

It was lively enough that I never got a chance to quote Laura Lee's definition of "quintessential restaurant" when I announced the chat would be Monday and wasn't sure people would know what it meant: "Quintessential means the restaurant will still be in business come Monday." ...

I did notice that when Carla posted the live chat window, she named it Quintessential Baltimore Restaurants with an "s." I guess she intuitively knew we were going to come to the conclusion that there isn't just one.

Next Monday is Labor Day, and I plan not to be laboring, but I'm game to do another live chat the following Monday if you are.

I know live chats aren't for everyone, but for me it's nice to be able to respond to a particular reader in real time. I do go back and read all your comments and answer the ones that seem to need answering if hmpstd hasn't (and thank you again, hmpstd), but I never know if that reader goes back to read my answer.

Also, for those who haven't gotten into the joys of topic drift, it offers a different sort of blog experience. (I like both.)

So once again the question is, what shall we talk about next?

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:09 PM | | Comments (24)
        

Live chat: Quintessential Baltimore restaurants

Posted by Carla Correa at 11:30 AM | | Comments (8)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Ranazul

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Yesterday I reviewed Ranazul in Maple Lawn. So far this morning I've heard from one person who thinks I don't like tapas from my review, and one person who doesn't know where Maple Lawn is.

I guess I do need to identify it every time I review a restaurant there since so many of my readers live in Baltimore.

Anyway, this is the place to post your opinion of the upscale development's tapas restaurant, wine bar and bistro.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:28 AM | | Comments (26)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Babalu Grill to close next

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My post earlier today on the Blue Sea Grill's closing prompted Amanda Karfakis, who handles marketing for Big Steaks Management, its parent company, to send me an e-mail saying the restaurant next door would also be closing.

Babalu Grill, owner Steve de Castro's Cuban restaurant, will be open through next Sunday, Sept. 6. What sparked these closings, apparently, was that the leases for both are up for renewal soon.

As her press release puts it, "The company will place complete focus on its historically most successful products – Ruth’s Chris Steak House restaurants and the privately owned Havana Club in Baltimore."

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:00 AM | | Comments (13)
        

Blue Sea Grill closes

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Blue Sea Grill, the seafood restaurant next to Power Plant Live, closed its doors for good Saturday.

Five years ago when it opened, I gave it three stars across the board and said, "Blue Sea Grill is the current spot to see and be seen, a place to nibble on domestic caviar and sip a Blue Hawaii martini. Its bar and dining areas are chic and minimalist, with bare wood floors and a strictly contemporary look, except for the traditional seacoast art on the walls."

I'll miss it, and I think the city will miss it. Just not enough, I guess. ...


As another one in a long list of fine-dining restaurant closings recently, it makes me sad; but I'm also sorry we've lost one of the few local seafood restaurants in the Inner Harbor area that weren't chains or mostly tourist-oriented. (By that I mean specializing in crabs and crab cakes.) It had good food and a lot of style.

By the way, if you missed Jill's wrap-up story yesterday on how the recession is affecting the restaurant business, here it is.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:24 AM | | Comments (20)
        

August 30, 2009

Man v. Food visits Annapolis today

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I just got word that the Travel Channel show Man v. Food is filming at Chick & Ruth's Delly in Annapolis today. The show revolves around the host, Adam Richman, taking on a challenge involving a region's food specialty.

I called and spoke to an owner, Beth Levitt. It was very noisy, so I may have missed some details but essentially this is what's happening: ...

 

At 7:30 tonight Richman will be attempting to eat one of the deli's colossal sandwiches (one-and-a-half pounds) or burgers (one pound) and a colossal shake (which weighs six pounds). It costs $16.50, by the way.

He's competing against Heather Wright of Gambrills, who happened to wander in at the right time and loves the deli's shakes.

Levitt didn't know when the episode would air, but I looked on the Web site, and the only two possibilities are Oct. 21 (Washington) and Oct. 28 (Baltimore). The latter seems more likely. Conceivably the producers could feel that Baltimore and Annapolis are practically the same city.

If anyone goes tonight, please post details below.

(AP photo/Chris Gardner)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:05 PM | | Comments (12)
        

The grilled cheese and tomato sandwich

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At the end of last week I had a stomach bug (or that occupational hazard, mild food poisoning). I felt better after not eating anything much for a couple of days, so Friday I went over to Nina's Espresso Bar, which is catty-corner to the Sun.

I hadn't been for awhile because I don't go out for lunch much anymore. To my surprise it's turned into much more of a restaurant. The hours have also expanded.

The owner, Jeanhee, is a native of Korea, and there have always been a few Asian dishes on the menu. In fact, she has the best spicy egg ramen in town. It's my go-to food when I have a bad cold. ...

But now she's got a sushi chef working for her. She says right now she's sticking to mostly cooked and vegetable sushi to see how it goes.

I wasn't up to sushi, but I overheard someone ordering a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich. I immediately craved one. Washed down with a fresh-squeezed lemonade, it tasted better than anything I had eaten in months.

Yesterday I decided to duplicate it at home. Of course, I couldn't bring myself to buy Wonder Bread, "processed cheese food" singles, or margarine, which is what I'm guessing the ingredients were.

I went to the store and got the Pepperidge Farm version of Wonder Bread and a block of cheddar. I placed a large slice of a Cherokee Purple heirloom tomato on it and grilled the sandwich in butter.

You know what? It was good, very good. But not as good as that sandwich at Nina's.

(Photo of Jeanhee by Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:36 AM | | Comments (40)
        

August 29, 2009

Comment of the Week

The reason I chose the following comment is partly because it was the first one under the entry. It set the tone for all the comments that followed, including an even better one by the same writer, sparking an entertaining discussion. Don't miss, for instance, the excellent wrap up of the issues by Warthog.

You know I like silly food comments (hey, I posted on deep-fried Oreos at the state fair Thursday), but sometimes it's nice when the discussions are more substantive.

It could have gone either way under The Demise of Fine Dining, but thanks to ryan97ou, most of the comments were thoughtful: ...

...i think a recession just weeds out the weak seeds. people are going to be more choosy when they go out and the city is younger (imo) and more likely to go out to the trendy, new place than the place that's been sitting on "tradition" as their schtick for years without changing anything (for the record i wouldn't be surprised one bit if other places go under within 5 years - prime rib - i'm lookin at you).

i mean i'm not an expert of these places, i've only been to them a handful of times, but there has to be some reason i didn't come back...where as some places i can't wait to come back (salt - i'm looking in your direction)

i've seen plenty of local restaurants packed this year.

i think the recession will just make people step up more. come up with more incentives, or roll with the punches, maybe have a casual night, etc.

then again..i've also had too much caffeine today, so take it easy on me. (awaiting bashing from said restaurants)

Posted by: ryan97ou | August 27, 2009 3:49 PM

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:48 PM | | Comments (16)
        

How far will you travel to a restaurant?

VoltInFrederick.jpgI'm lucky because the Sun not only pays for my dinner, it pays my mileage for travel to and from the restaurant (55 cents a mile); and when I can get around to taking it, I get comp time for eating out.

That means I don't really care if I have to go to Maple Lawn or Annapolis or Harbor East to review a restaurant.

But I've noticed that other folks, people I ask to come with me, no longer seem as enthusiastic if the review involves driving far to a restaurant. ...

And no friend ever says to me, hey, let's drive out to Frederick this weekend and eat at that good new restaurant.

My husband and I never go to DC for dinner anymore.

I'm not sure whether it's because we're all working harder than we used to and are more tired, or we got out of the habit of traveling when gas prices spiked, or the fact that there so many more good restaurants close to home now.  Or maybe my friends and I are in the minority.

Here's the e-mail from Richard suggesting this as a topic for discussion:

The discussion of Maple Lawn and my missing car keys got me thinking about this.
 
Admittedly, I'm a bit extreme in my travel habits lately.  That is, I just don't.  Since I moved downtown a couple of years ago, even a trip out to Woodberry Kitchen is a hike I think twice about.  I love being able to walk everywhere.  But I wonder how far other people will travel to go to a restaurant?
 
Along the same lines, I have a bunch of friends that think nothing of calling up and asking me and my better half to come down to meet them in DC.  No big deal to them, it seems.  But has anyone noticed that if you ask someone from DC to come up to Baltimore for dinner, they start making excuses and looking around for their passports like its in a foreign country?  Maybe I just need better friends.  But I'd be interested in learning what folks think are the best ways to convince someone to come up from DC to Baltimore for dinner.

(Andre F. Chung/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:06 AM | | Comments (49)
        

August 28, 2009

Live chat Monday: Be there or be square

Probably even that threat won't get you there and chatting, but you can't say I haven't tried. The results of the First-Ever Dining@Large Poll are in, and it looks like the winner is The Quintessential Baltimore Restaurant.

What? You didn't want to talk about crab cakes? ...

There were a total of 112 votes. I would like to know how many of those who voted for it did not know the meaning of "quintessential."

Maybe I'll ask Community Coordinator Carla to promote the subject as "The one restaurant you would recommend to visitors to Baltimore."

The chat will start at noon on Monday. Come on, you know that's your lunch hour. You know how I hate to be second best. Remember to arrive early and post your questions or comments in advance, so I can answer them in order.

And, by the way, if I wake up Monday morning not feeling the quintessential restaurant thing, I'm going to talk about something else.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:23 PM | | Comments (13)
        

Piccola Roma reopening -- maybe

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Your restaurant critic puts up with a lot of abuse to bring you the exciting news of the surrounding community.

Haha. Just kidding. 

I heard this afternoon that Piccola Roma in Annapolis, which closed on New Year's Eve, will be reopening.

No one answered the phone when I called, but it's not disconnected.

Then I tried an e-mail in which I said, "Hi. I've heard  you're reopening soon. I'm the restaurant critic of the Baltimore Sun, and I would love to hear the details. Please give me a call. Thanks." ...

I just got this mysterious answer:

"Sorry, but we are not interest in your opinion"

OK, then.

Anybody out there know anything? I'd like to feature the restaurant in my Table Talk column and give it a little publicity if and when it reopens.

[Photo of former co-owners Raffaella Calabria (left) and Silvana Recine by Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer. I don't know if they sent me the e-mail or are involved in the reopening or not.]

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:02 PM | | Comments (11)
        

Fried fantasy

Robert of Cross Keys guest posts today from Florida. It's an intriguing post that raises more questions than it answers, including a) you have to travel for fantasy football? and b) are you bringing me a pecan roll from Stuckey's? Here's RoCK. EL...

Update: I've removed the autoplay video. I looked to see if I could find it without autoplay but couldn't. If anyone else can, please e-mail me the embed code. EL

This week I am in Jacksonville, Fla., which for all intents and purposes is located in south Georgia.

This is a city where the food is diverse yet unified, and by that I mean different kinds of fish, fowl and miscellaneous all come together in the deep fryer.    

Unfortunately, I’m probably not going to have the time to go out on a culinary tour in this land where the local cooks use a Fry Daddy like a French chef uses a sauté pan or a Chinese chef employs a wok.  

I’m here on serious business; I’m here for my fantasy football draft.

I’ve been training hard this week and eating right, so I can’t throw it all away now in some orgy of oil.

Last week my wife secured a brisket from her brisket man (what, your wife doesn’t have a brisket man?) at Texas Hickory Brisket.  I did five pounds of brisket in about six days, and I feel like Rocky.  It is that kind of lean protein loading (OK, I didn’t trim off the brisket’s fat cap) that is going to get me through all 14 rounds of the draft.

The draft will be over around lunchtime on Sunday. If I can’t get some fried food then, maybe I’ll celebrate with a trip to Stuckey's.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:34 PM | | Comments (22)
        

The collateral damage of a restaurant closing

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With the recent closings of the Brass Elephant, Bicycle and Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City, and the e-mails and comments I've gotten about them, I'm more struck than ever by the collateral damage these sudden closings cause.

For most of us, it may be simply that we've lost one more restaurant we enjoyed. But for the employees who arrive for work and find the doors shut or who are owed back wages, it's much worse. The restaurant's suppliers or landlord may be owed money. And so on and so on.

Customers may never be able to redeem their gift certificates, or they may only be able to redeem them for a fraction of their value, or at a restaurant they don't like as well. ...

 

Then there are cases like this one:

Hello Ms. Large,
 
I'm writing again to ask for your help.  My husband and I did select The Brass Elephant as the restaurant for our son's wedding rehearsal [dinner] on December 4th.  Because of the restaurant's closing, we are now beginning the search again and were wondering if you might have another suggestion.
 
Thanks for any advice you are able to provide,


I had suggested the Brass Elephant last February when she was looking for a restaurant in Mount Vernon, and I'm sure she was relieved to get at least one important detail set well in advance.

Now I'm not sure what advice to give her. Abacrombie is a possibility, although December is a long way away for a restaurant that, someone posted here, opened only for them during Restaurant Week. The Belvedere has a beautiful room for events, but I haven't heard anything about their catering. The Prime Rib would be a possibility, I suppose, if she has money. And the Brewer's Art has the food; I'm just not sure about the private room.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:39 AM | | Comments (27)
        

Jordan Naftal out of Maple Lawn steakhouse

RanazulSteak.jpgI checked my work e-mail before I went to bed last night (why do I do that?) and found an e-mail from Carlos Venegas, an owner of Ranazul in Maple Lawn, which said this:

Jordan’s Steakhouse in Ellicott City having been hit hard by the recession and unable to recover, has withdrawn from the new venture in Maple Lawn.  As a
 gesture of good will for those that purchased gift cards, they will be honored at Carlos’ Steakhouse at 100% of the value.
 ...

At least I now have an answer for the e-mail from this reader:

I just finished reading about the closing of Jordan's in Ellicott City.  Do you have any way of finding out what I can do to redeem the $100.00 gift card to Jordan's I received for my birthday in June? 

Let me say once again that if you have a restaurant gift certificate, use it. Right away. Do not wait two months.

By the way, the comments under the Jordan's entries have gotten so ugly and repetitive that I've closed them to any further posts. I have a lot of sympathy for the people who worked at Jordan's and weren't paid, but this isn't the place to do something about it. I'll delete comments in the same vein that are posted below if they don't contribute anything new to the discussion. 

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:10 AM | | Comments (18)
        

August 27, 2009

Richard reviews Carlos O'Charlies

CarlosOCharlies.jpgToday Other Reviewer Richard took a second look (second bite?) at Carlos O'Charlies on Eastern Avenue. I say second look because he first reviewed it for the City Paper.

His review reminds me of when I went to the now-closed Gardel's not long after it opened. At that time there was an emphasis on the dining part of the equation, but I think that became less and less important the longer the supper club was open.

Restaurants that are part of night clubs and lounges and what happens to them in Baltimore are probably worth a post in themselves.

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:58 PM | | Comments (3)
        

The No. 1 food you don't want to think about...

...when your stomach is feeling a little under the weather, as mine is today:

deep-fried Oreos.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:22 PM | | Comments (48)
        

The demise of fine dining

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Reporter and animal lover Jill Rosen is working on a story right now that was sparked by the news of the Brass Elephant's closing.

Today Jill and I started naming all the fine-dining restaurants that have downscaled or closed (Bicycle, Jordan's, Brasserie Tatin, Ixia, the Spice Company, Taste, Northwoods; feel free to remind us of others below).

While the recession didn't do all of these in, the faltering economy did at least give them a little push. ...

 

We were trying to decide if it's more that people are no longer going out for special occasions, or if they are still going out for special occasions -- an anniversary or a birthday once or twice a year -- but no longer going out extra times, spending too much money on a good meal just for the fun of it.

I've been doing blog posts all along on some of these issues, but now Jill is going to do a wrap-up story. She'd love to hear from any of you who might be willing to talk to her about either a) fond memories you have of an important dinner at the Brass Elephant or any of the others or b) if you haven't been going out to fine-dining restaurants recently for whatever reason, but especially because of money issues.

Jill can be reached at jill.rosen@baltsun.com.

(Sun archives)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:55 PM | | Comments (37)
        

How to navigate an upscale menu

TruffleOil.jpgFrank Bruni wrote his last column as restaurant critic for the New York Times yesterday.

A lot of it isn't very useful to Baltimoreans (unless you're planning a trip to New York), but one section amused me -- and both Multimedia Editor(ish) Mary and ryan97ou, who separately pointed it out to me before I got this entry written.

It seems to have struck a chord with all of us: ...

IS THERE ANY BEST, SAFEST WAY TO NAVIGATE A MENU?

Scratch off the appetizers and entrees that are most like dishes you’ve seen in many other restaurants, because they represent this one at its most dutiful, conservative and profit-minded. The chef’s heart isn’t in them.

Scratch off the dishes that look the most aggressively fanciful. The chef’s vanity — possibly too much of it — spawned these.

Then scratch off anything that mentions truffle oil.

Choose among the remaining dishes.

This reminds me that I completely forgot to watch Bruni on Nightline. Did anyone, and how was the interview?

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:59 AM | | Comments (5)
        

Welcome to some new voices

I've noticed that in the past week we've had some new commenters here, and I'm delighted. Welcome.

This seems like a good time to direct you to our commenting how to's. They boil down to 1) be civil to other commenters and 2) remember this isn't my personal blog. It's the Sun's blog, and it is monitored by the higher ups.

I'll also point out the directions for linking, although you certainly don't have to use them if you'd rather just include the Web address. You can find both posts at a later date under the Categories to the right on the main page. ...

Now that you're talking, maybe you'll be interested in participating in our live chat. We've had one and will have another next Monday. You might want to vote on its subject on the first-ever Dining@Large poll, which should be open for the rest of the day. I should have put an "Other" choice, but I didn't, so if there's something else you'd like to chat about, please post a comment suggesting it below.

By the way, I'm thinking of holding the chat at noon this time rather than 11 a.m. Maybe that will be a better time for those of you who want to take part at work.

I'd like to do what hmpstd suggested and make the answers follow the questions more logically, but that will only work if you post at least some of your comments and questions in advance.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:01 AM | | Comments (27)
Categories: Commenting
        

More on the Brass Elephant

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Midnight Sun Sam got hold of Randy Stahl, a co-owner of the Brass Elephant, late yesterday afternoon and got a few more facts from him. Here's his story, which appears in the paper today.

There's something very sad to me about the detail that they looked at the books and saw they had no reservations for this week.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:13 AM | | Comments (18)
        

August 26, 2009

Table Talk and Top 10 Wednesday

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A lot has been happening today, so this is the first time I've had a chance to link to my Table Talk column and Top 10 Wednesday that appeared in the print edition.

I don't think the former had much news I haven't already published on the blog, but as usual it's interesting to see what comments were deemed worthy of inclusion with the Top 10.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:29 PM | | Comments (2)
        

The Brass Elephant closes

BrassElephantCloses.jpgI just heard from Robert of Cross Keys that the Brass Elephant Facebook page says the restaurant is closed, presumably for good. He learned about it from his wife, who reported it on her food blog.

I called the restaurant, and the voicemail makes no mention of the fact. But no one has called me back so far, either.

This could conceivably be a temporary closing, but it doesn't seem like it from the Facebook page and the comments on it.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:10 PM | | Comments (36)
        

Hot new trend: tippas

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This is such a brilliant idea I'm amazed no one has thought of it until now. I am more grateful than I can say to our guest poster and Shallow Thought Wednesday guru John Lindner for bringing it to our attention. Here's John. EL

I'm thinkin' about starting a new trend: tippas ... small tips.
 
Tippas replaces the old, outmoded percentage system with an inventory approach to tipping. Each aspect of the dining experience or “tippas issue” is assigned a monetary value. Totaled at the end of the meal, it returns an objectively quantifiable, mathmatically defensible tip amount.*

I include just a few examples here: ...

$0.50 for medium rare (When you ask for med rare) ** & ***    

$0.75 for hot fries

$0.45 for bringing everything the way it was ordered (add $0.15 if server depended on memory)

$0.90 for bacon (whether I ordered it or not … in fact, $0.95 if I didn’t order it)

$1.50 for astute attentiveness

$3.00 for recommending an entrée or wine that pleasantly surprises

$1.00 for not rolling eyes while taking a custom order (see above: add $0.45 for getting it right)

$0.35 when condiments are on table when food arrives (shouldn’t have to tip for this, but D@Lers are generous and civilized to a fault)

$5.00 for living up to or beyond your expectations during a special evening out

-$12.00 to +$12.00 for server-patron touching (based on individual diner experience, results may vary)
 
* iPhone app idea: iTippas Check List. Program lists all possible tippas issues on a 1-5 scale. User enters values for each applicable issue. When bill arrives, enter amount, hit “calc." App adds tippas value to check total and voila! App’s pro version adds fine- and jl-dining options and returns a star rating.
 
** Sample values represent an approximate baseline.
 
*** Yes, tippas amount is subtracted upon failure. When tippas total value is a negative, it’s time to complain to the manager and demand to be comped for an item or items equal to or greater than the negative tippas value. 

(Photo by Bradley Sepos courtesy of stock.Xchng)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:14 PM | | Comments (21)
        

My search for the perfect sangria

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My sangria story appeared in the Taste section today. There wasn't room in the print edition for my sidebar on three bottled sangrias I tried, so I thought I would publish it here. EL

Sometimes you want sangria for a party or a picnic or just for backyard sipping, but you don’t want to go to the trouble of making it. For those times there is bottled sangria. I went to a wine shop and picked up three for an informal taste test. ...

To my surprise, three of us had exactly the same reaction to them, although all three of us have very different tastes in alcoholic drinks. I was also surprised at how little information there is on the bottles on what’s in them.

The most expensive, Cruz Garcia Real Red Sangria ($7.99), has 7 to 10 percent alcohol, and contains “Spanish red wine and natural citrus flavors.” It was the one the three of us liked least. It had a “weird kick,” an aftertaste or spiciness that no one enjoyed.

The Aromas de Tures ($6.99), with 7.1 percent alcohol and “grape wine with natural flavors added,” was the one that tasted most of cheap red wine. You expect them all to be made with cheap red wine at those prices, but not to taste like it.

The bottled sangria we all three preferred was the Lost Vineyards of Spain ($4.99), 6 percent alcohol, a “red wine product with natural fruit flavors.”

It tasted like fruit punch with not much alcohol, which might be just the thing for your Labor Day picnic if it’s hot and you’re not a beer drinker -- or not much of a drinker at all, like me.

Be sure to doctor any of these with cut-up fresh fruit. Apples, peaches, nectarines, oranges, and blueberries all work well. The fruit – and the drink – will be much improved if you soak the fruit in the sangria for a few hours or overnight.

(Photo of Tapas Teatro's sangria by Tasha Treadwell/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:45 AM | | Comments (33)
        

Why Towson has so many sushi restaurants

KyodaiSushiBar.jpg

I got an invitation yesterday to a press tour of Towson sushi restaurants in September.

It asked these intriguing questions: "Have you ever wondered why there are so many sushi restaurants in Towson and which one is the best?"

Well, yes, actually I have. At least the first question.

Towson is an area that I used to think could support a few more fine-dining restaurants, but I was wrong. ...

Asian restaurants that have sushi seem to flourish, though -- as much as any places are in this economy.

The press tour consists of walking around to four of them and tasting their sushi. The four are Kyodai, the Orient, San Sushi Too and Sushi Hana, which were chosen, the PR person told me, for their "combo of walkability and recommendations."

The press tour showcasing Towson’s sushi restaurants was organized by the Baltimore County Tourism Office. I like the ingenuity of it. There's not even a pretense of news involved, just, hey, come eat sushi and write about our restaurants.

And you know what? I bit, only without eating the sushi. Here I am writing about them. I do want to know why there are so many sushi restaurants in Towson. Does it have to do with the fact that it's essentially a college town, or that it's the beginning of a Little Asia, or what?

Unfortunately when I asked the PR person to tell me why, even though I wouldn't be going on the tour, she said, "I'm not sure myself." 

By her count there are 8 to 10 Asian places in Towson, which may be a little vague but they are still surprisingly large numbers.

Update: When I signed on to my work e-mail just now, I got this from Jill Feinberg, Director, Conference and Tourism, Baltimore County Department of Economic Development. EL

Some thinking of why there are so many sushi restaurants in Towson:
1.  Like the Italian restaurants in Little Italy, they build off each other
2.  Popularity of sushi with college students
3.  Downtown Towson is a destination for dining and shopping
 
Sushi/Asian restaurants in and around the area:

The four we will visit:

San Sushi Too, 10 W. Penn Ave

Kyodai Rotating Sushi Bar, 1 W. Penn Ave

Sushi Hana, 4 E. Penn Ave

The Orient, 319 York Rd.
 
Others in the area:

Sushi Ichiban, 1238 Putty Hill Ave

Kikumoto Sushi and Japanese, 510 York Road

Purim Oak Sushi, 321 York Road

Edo Japan, 825 Dulaney Valley Road (at the Towson Town Center)

PF Changs

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:18 AM | | Comments (35)
        

August 25, 2009

Jordan's employee files criminal charges

The Howard County Times is reporting that a kitchen worker has filed criminal charges against Jordan Naftal, the owner of Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City, for failure to pay some $2,000 in back wages.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:27 PM | | Comments (17)
        

Looking for a Sichuan hot pot restaurant

JackBob.JPGOne thing I like a lot about my job is getting entertaining e-mails like this one from Jack Cole (not someone I've ever met or even heard from before). The subject line is "Back in the USA," and it reads like we're in the middle of a conversation. I'm pretty sure we don't have any hot pot restaurants in Baltimore; the nearest is probably in DC. If I'm wrong, please let us know. Here's Jack. EL

23 days in Shanghai were plenty. Great city, but  Baltimore is home, due in large (no pun -- unless you like it) part to your writing. As I have recently lost 120 lbs., your excellent work is even more important to me. As we say in Shanghai (called "Hu" by locals there), go figure. ....

Two items:

1). When in Shanghai, check out the Pacican (Pacific-Canadian) restaurant -- best and only really true "fusion" food I have ever had.  The mushroom soup and lamb chops alone are worth the airfare. The restaurant has a web site.  

2). My spouse is laid up from foot surgery, so couldn't go, so I am looking for a hotpot restaurant to show her in the Balt/Wash area.  Been to two in Shanghai, thus bracketing the category w/both high and low. Wouldn't know "authentic" as long as it's got good food (I'll take my own Old Bay, thanks). Know of any (preferably, but not necessarily passing its health inspection...)?

Anyway,  thanks for a great job.  Will visit the new AVAM rest. when it opens.

Regards,

Jack

And, by the way, he enclosed a before photo (115 pounds ago) for our viewing pleasure. ELJACK.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:57 PM | | Comments (16)
        

Where five people can talk and eat

HenningersDiningRoom.JPG

I just got an e-mail for a recommendation that stumped me. Steve is looking for a restaurant where five people can talk and eat, maybe in a private room, for $250 inclusive. I was following along till then, but then he mentioned Henninger's.

Unless Henninger's Tavern has been remodeled, I can't think of any private space there at all, and I'm not even sure about tables for five. Good food and atmosphere, though. ...

I think his best bet would be someplace casual where they could eat outdoors, like one of the restaurants in Cross Keys. (Easy to get to and good parking.) But maybe one of you has a better idea.

Here's Steve's e-mail:

Perhaps you can help me. I am looking to host 5 people (including me) for a casual business dinner. Im taking out 3 young doctors and 1 older doctor (they’re not stuffy guys, but not too casual). I need a place with a separate room, or table in a location where we can talk. I also want to limit the dinner to $250 with tip. I’m thinking a place like Henningers. What do you think?

Also, it should be easy to get to if possible.

Thanks for your help!!

Steve

(Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:35 PM | | Comments (20)
        

The Batter Blaster backstory

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Faithful readers remember that Batter Blaster was one of the first reader reviews Dining@Large featured. L Cray tried the pancakes in a can and, amazingly, thought they were OK. Whole Foods started carrying them.

Now, as Paul Harvey used to say, here's the rest of the story. Thanks to Chowsearch for bringing it to my attention.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:10 AM | | Comments (10)
        

I'll do better next time

Hmpstd posted a good comment just now that I was going to respond to underneath, then realized my answer was getting unwieldly, so I'm going to post both here. Here's what he had to say:

Bacon Girl, I agree that the WaPo chats have good flow.  It helps that all questions are held, and not instantly posted online.  That way, the moderator can decide whether or not to answer a given question (a good way to filter out those that might be lewd or defamatory), and, if time is running out, a question can be held for response in a blog or column in the near future.  Also, the question and answer are posted at the same time, which cuts down on the confusion.  Because yesterday's Sun chat used specialized software, the effect was not unlike Windows Instant Messenger, in which questions and answers pop up in random order as soon as they're sent in.

I tried at one point to follow the chat in real time, but it was hard to follow, with new questions (and their accompanying annoying sound effects) constantly interrupting the flow.  Also, there were two polls ("Was your RW a success?" and "Was your RW experience a success?"),  and the software jumped back and forth to display the results of each poll.  Since I couldn't figure out the difference between the two polls at first, I kept wondering why the "Yes" response kept jumping from 100% to only 38%. ...

Yes, the chat yesterday really was live, unlike the Post's, and like most live things, it got messy.

The confusion with the polls was totally my fault. No one was saying anything, which was weird considering the number of people who were watching. I looked to the left and saw there was a "create a poll" button (my first time on the chat software, remember) so I threw it in to make something happen.

I only gave the answers "yes" or "no," and someone asked for a "kinda" choice. I thought I could just add it, but that created a second poll. Hence the confusion.

We had hoped by opening up the window 10 minutes early, people would submit their questions and comments as they do at the Post. Carla could post them at intervals and I could respond. But no one did. The comments would have been held if there had been any backlog, but there wasn't.

All this is to say that I hope more of you will help me out and contribute next Monday, if only by submitting something in the advance time if you don't like live chats. You don't have to use your regular user name if you don't want to.

I knew going in that regulars on the blog don't need a live chat, auto-publish does that for us. But the chats are so well publicized on the home page that it's a good way to draw in first-time readers. They probably won't comment, and I don't really expect them to. The point is that I am on display. I hope next Monday some of you will be, too, to show why the blog at its best is fun to read.

PS: I'm clueless about the sound effects. I didn't get any.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:18 AM | | Comments (13)
        

Top 10 drinks (other than wine) that go with food

MojitoOfCourse.jpgWhen I'm at a Chinese-American restaurant, I crave a whiskey sour. When I'm eating Tex-Mex food, a margarita is what I want. Of such stuff Top 10 lists are made.

Yesterday a frequent commenter, The Baltimoron, who is a local bartender, sent me such a good Top 10 list I decided to use it today rather than the boring one I was working on. It's a list of great food and drink pairings, excluding wine.

He also added this postscript:

substitutes:

key lime pie martini and cheesecake; I make a martini with key lime juice, cream and 2 oz of 43 liqueur, rim the glass with graham cracker crumbs and serve with plain cheesecake, yum!!
 
cosmopolitans with tapas; the reason this works is while enjoying cosmos or tapas, you are actually enjoying friendly conversation, not a meal, and both cosmos and tapas complement the atmosphere you set with your company.
 
things that complement nothing:
 
grappa, ouzo, jagermeister, any more?

Now here's his list of drinks that do complement food, and the food they go with:

* Zen Press with a summer dinner salad. A Zen Press is muddled seedless cucumber with lemongrass, Hendrick's gin and either soda water or Sprite, garnished with fresh mint. It goes great with any dinner salad.
 
* Mojito with Southwestern/Mexican food. What could be better on a hot day than flautas and a mojito?
 
* Orange Manhattan with a steak. Use a better bourbon and orange bitters instead of sweet vermouth, or both, for this one. Great with a steak in a reduction or topped with blue cheese. It will cut right through it, you won't need a knife!
 
* Natty Boh and crabs. I can't leave that out, might get lynched.
 
* Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and anything beurre blanc. The nutty hoppiness of this beer will complement and cut the sweet cream buttery goodness of the sauce.
 
* Keyoke coffee with dessert, tiramisu for me. Brandy, Kahlua and coffee topped with whipped cream. I just came back from La Tavola; it was a great ending. Dinner was good, too!
 
* Hot sake with sushi. Need I say more? (Not a wine. Calling it rice wine doesn't make it wine.)
 
* Guinness and Irish stew or corned beef and cabbage. We're all Irish on St. Patty's day, aren't we?
 
* Milkshake with a burger and fries. It's the all-American meal we all grew up on, and still indulge in from time to time. Vanilla for me!
 
* Jager bombs and chili cheese fries. Just kidding. That was for those who are reading and are 21 years old to 21 1/2.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:09 AM | | Comments (63)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays, Wine and Spirits
        

August 24, 2009

So what do you want to talk about?

I've learned many new skills today: How to hold a live chat, how not to burst into tears talking to AT&T about my phone bill and now, how to create a poll on Dining@Large. I don't know if it will work, but let's try:
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:13 PM | | Comments (31)
        

Final thoughts on the live chat

That was so fun. More fun than you can imagine, and I have no idea why. We had the second-highest total of people watching of any Sun live chat, but people were quiet. My guess is that had to do with the topic, which we had kind of talked out here on the blog.

So next Monday I'm going to do a chat on...

Where to Get the Best Crab Cake.

Unless you can come up with a better topic for me.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:44 AM | | Comments (22)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Real Seafood Co.

RealSeafoodExterior.jpg

 

Yesterday I reviewed the Real Seafood Co. in Annapolis. Then just now I got an e-mail asking what happened to the review, so I guess someone was interested, even if it isn't in the city.

More importantly, as far as I know nothing happened to the review. I'm assuming it was in the print edition yesterday, although I don't have time right now to go hunt up a copy to check. Was it hard to find? ...

 

This, by the way, was one of those restaurants where the 2 1/2 stars for the food didn't mean that it was a little better than fair. It meant that some of our dishes were very good, some I wasn't wild about, and if you ordered right you could have a 3 1/2 star meal there.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:48 AM | | Comments (4)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Live chat: Restaurant Week wrap-up

Posted by Carla Correa at 10:45 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Baltimore Shaq attack!

Midnight Sun Sam's former roommate (I almost said roommate; I forgot he's married now) came up with a celebrity spotting for us at the Red Star Friday night. Check out Sam's post about it.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:14 AM | | Comments (2)
        

Good restaurants that could use a physical makeover

PappasDiningRoom.jpgUnder an earlier post I got some good suggestions for a Top 10 from the Baltimoron. One of the most interesting ones was restaurants that need refurbishing or remodeling.

Robert of Cross Keys suggested making it ones where the food was good so the list wouldn't be too negative.

It's not a list I can make up personally because I mostly go to new restaurants to review. And now that the Top 10 Tuesday is appearing in the print edition, there is an audience who simply can't get it into their heads that it's a group effort. They take literally the fact that it says "Elizabeth Large's Top 10" instead of understanding that I'm -- what? -- the moderator. ...

It's still a great topic for discussion. Some would be quite controversial, like the Prime Rib and the Brass Elephant. And you could argue about the virtues of shabby chic in a restaurant. (I personally think only Martick's could get away with that.)

Anyway, here are the suggestions so far:

From RoCK: "I'll throw out the Valley View Inn as a candidate. Burkes is another good one."

Hal Laurent responded: "Remodeling Burke's might just ruin it."

From Dottie: "[H]ere are three restaurants that I think could use a makeover:

The Prime Rib: spectacular food, but outdated 1960's decor.

Perring Place: reasonably good food, but frayed linens & rug, chips out of table tops, etc., make for shabby looks.

Pappas: ditto Perring Place."

You get the idea.

(Tasha Treadwell/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:11 AM | | Comments (28)
        

August 23, 2009

Next Sunday's review: Ranazul

Ranazul in Maple Lawn has been on my mental to-do list since it opened, but it kept getting pushed down as other restaurants closer to home needed reviewing. The events of the last couple of weeks got me thinking about it again.

As regular readers know, the owner of Ranazul has teamed up with the owner of Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City to reopen what was the oZ. Chophouse in Maple Lawn. ...

The new restaurant would be known as Carlos and Jordan's Steakhouse. I'm making no predictions now about when and if that will happen, but I do know that Ranazul has been a success where other restaurants in the new Maple Lawn development have failed.

I decided to see why for myself. And it didn't hurt that I need one more Spanish/Mediterranean/tapas place for my sangria story, which is scheduled to appear in next Wednesday's Taste section.

If the tapas craze has run its course, you couldn't tell it from Ranazul. To see what I thought of our food, please look for my review in next Sunday's Arts & Entertainment section.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:33 PM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Three foods I will never serve

SeaCucumber.jpg
It's been so long I can't even remember where he posted it, but I saved this comment from jl and just now came upon it:
 
Foods I will never serve for Thanksgiving:
1. Creamed corn
2. Sea cucumbers
3. Salmon loaf
 
There are a lot more than three foods I wouldn't serve for Thanksgiving, but are there three I wouldn't serve period? ...

I don't think so. Only one comes to mind that I wouldn't have in my house, let alone serve to a guest, and that would be margarine.

I'm sure there are others, but I can't think of them. Even something like Wonder Bread you can use to make a decent if not perfect cucumber sandwich (if you cut the crusts off).

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:17 AM | | Comments (67)
        

August 22, 2009

The Comment of the Week

For some reason I thought we had an unusual number of good comments this week. I was laughing out loud at some of the ones under the panhandling post, even though I know I shouldn't. It reminds me of the time my daughter offered half a pizza to a panhandler who had a "will work for food" sign, and he said, "I've already eaten."

But my favorite comment this week was this one under my fairy food post. Its only flaw was that it reminded me I have to come up with a subject for this Tuesday's Top 10: ...

Top Ten Foods to Avoid in Fairyland:

1. A bite out of the wrong side of an apple.


2. Candy attached to a solitary gingerbread house.


3. Rampion, if you are pregnant with a girl-child.


4. Honey, if you are a bear with a little brain who lives in a little house with a little door.


5. Grandmothers of girls who wear red hoods.


6. Porridge that is neither too hot nor too cold.


7. Six pomegranate seeds.


8. Party snax too close to midnight when your only running gear is a pair of glass slippers.


9. Any banquet which can be produced by rubbing a magic lamp.


10. Any fruit a serpent encourages you to eat.

Posted by: Laura Lee | August 16, 2009 6:20 PM

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:25 PM | | Comments (20)
        

The unprinted cocktail price

PerfectMartini.jpg

 

I got the following e-mail from Janine this morning, written last night after a frustrating evening out.

I'm not going to name the restaurant because I haven't heard management's side, and that's not really the point. I can see how ordering a drink "in a tall glass" could be misconstrued -- or taken advantage of.

The point is that there is ample room for either error or for making a little extra on the liquor bill when cocktail prices aren't printed.

Not only that, these days restaurants may be more concerned about the bottom line than customer retention when you try to straighten the problem out.

More than ever it's a good idea to ask if you don't know what your drink is going to cost, but you care when you get the check.

Here's Janine's e-mail: ...


Two friends and I headed to [Chez Restaurant] tonight for what we hoped would be a new favorite spot. The food was good, although a bit pricey. We got the chicken gyro, southwest cobb, and muffaletta panini. All three were good enough that we decided we'd be back. Then we got the bill.

Never in my life have I wished that I was a food critic more than tonight!  Our check was $125 - before tip! We had ordered Bacardi and Diet Cokes to drink. Our other friend had 3 Stella's. The Bacardi and Diet's ended up being $12 each. Between the two of us, we had 7. That's $84 in drinks between 2 people! Absurd! I was shocked.

I asked to speak to the owner and she said that she spoke to her server who said we ordered doubles. Humm.mm.mm. well, seems to me there was a misunderstanding - we ordered them in a tall glass. . . so a tall glass is now a double . . . at $12 a piece? Am I in New York? The owner said all she could do was give us 10% off - so, we'd get a gift card for $12.50. A gift card?  It was a  complete insult. As pissed as I was over this "misunderstanding" and considering we paid for at least her purchase of four 1.75 liters of Bacardi , why couldn't she simply apologize for the "misunderstanding" and taken off the "doubles"? I would have been happy to pay for 7 Bacardi and Diet's - not 14 - I would not be walking out of her bar if I alone consumed 7 drinks in the two hours we were there - and certainly not capable of writing 30 minutes later! 

The saddest part is, I would have gone back. But, not now. Be careful if you go - order beer - stay away from all mixed cocktails unless you're looking to break the bank. It's a shame. Since we go out at least twice a week, we were really looking for a new place to go - and excited to have thought we found one.  Where is customer service these days?  It's lost in greed. Why don't people realize that a happy customer is worth more than a Bacardi & Diet ?
 
I hope you can help me in some way in venting my frustration.  This isn't the first restaurant that has taken advantage of the unprinted cocktail price.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:44 AM | | Comments (46)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

August 21, 2009

Coming Monday: Your restaurant critic's first live chat

MysteryBisque.jpg

 

I tried to wiggle out of it, but Community Coordinator Carla got me to agree to a live chat Monday, Aug. 24 at 11 a.m. Actually it ought to be a lot of fun, since I don't get to see the software live until, well, Monday at 11 a.m., and Carla as moderator hasn't dealt with a...er...fun group like this before when she's set up live chats.

The subject will be your Restaurant Week experiences, and how you think the recession changed the event for the better or worse this summer. ...

You'll have to stay on topic more than usual because Carla will be filtering the questions and comments. If it works out, we'd like to hear what other topics you might want to talk about in future chats.

I did explain to her that unlike other Sun blogs commenters, Dining@Large readers almost have live-chat capability already with auto-publish. The only difference is that I'll be in the mix next Monday.

I think Carla is going to allow people to start posting questions or comments about 10 minutes in advance. If you want to sign on and get yours in early, that would be a good thing because I've told her that after half an hour I'm leaving for lunch.

(Sun archives)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:27 PM | | Comments (29)
        

The local soup mystery

MdCrabSoup.JPGMy daughter is obsessed by what she calls the local soup mystery. I think she's onto something. Last night she ordered tortilla soup. When it came, it had chunks of avocado and chicken as well as tortilla strips on top; but as she pointed out, it tasted like Maryland crab soup base.

This happened to her somewhere else recently, I think when she ordered what was called a roasted tomato soup.

Now I just got this e-mail from her: ...

Someone [in her office] eating take-out “vegetarian garden vegetable” soup just said, “Weird, it tastes just like Maryland Crab soup.”

Why is that happening with every single soup these days?

Why indeed? Maybe Maryland crab soup is the single most popular soup in Maryland -- I'm sure it is -- but I don't think people like it as much if it doesn't have, you know, crab in it.

I can see the desperate chef coming up with this great idea.

"People will love it. It tastes just like crab soup!"

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:46 PM | | Comments (6)
        

Border food in Almost Heaven

Robert of Cross Keys takes us out of our usual feeding grounds in this excellent guest post on where cuisines collide. EL

Last week I found myself spending a few days in Jefferson County, W. V.

I’ve always been fascinated by border areas.  Places like Baltimore, Cincinnati, or Louisville where two or more cultures bump into one another.

Jefferson County is one of these border areas.  The county is the inspiration for the song “Take Me Home, Country Roads”; however, it was forced out of Virginia against its will and dragged kicking and screaming into West Virginia.  For many years this dichotomy of Mountaineers and Southerners was played out in the county. These groups are still present, but they are joined by newcomers who are transforming the county into an exurb of Washington.

You can experience the cultural mix of Jefferson County through its food, but it will take a little bit of digging.  It’s not going to be as easy as walking through a place like Adams-Morgan and seeing Ethiopian food on one side of the street and Salvadoran fare on the other. Unfortunately, you will have to wade through the chains and the sports bars, but if you do you’ll find some good and genuine food.

For West Virginian cooking, I go to My Pappy’s Place on Route 340.  This place is decorated in stained glass, and your placemat offers up four prayers: Protestant, Catholic, Orthodox and Judaic.  Alcohol is not served, but traditional favorites are.  A favorite is the hillbilly chicken, which is honey fried chicken.   A subtle sweet flavor permeates the chicken.  The meat is very juicy, while the batter is crispy but not too heavy. Pair this up with some beans, both green and pinto and both made with smoked ham, and you are set for the day.

I found Southern cooking at an African-American festival in Charles Town.  

I got a great fish sandwich from a guy known as Mr. Big Fish.  There is truth in advertising, as this sandwich probably had more than a pound of fish.  Three big pieces of whiting, dredged in cornmeal, and fried fresh on the spot.  The only condiments available: six different kinds of hot sauce.  I went with Crystal.  The sandwich came with my choice of soda: black cherry or strawberry.  Like an idiot I went with the cherry, and I regretted it for the rest of the day.    

On the way out of the festival there was a family that set up shop in their front yard.  A guy was yelling: “Come on over, it doesn’t cost nothing to look.”  I walked over. He was selling knock-off Gucci handbags, which I really didn’t have a need for.  Fortunately, in the backyard his wife was selling country ham sandwiches, which is something you never can have too many of.  

When it comes to seeing the effect of newcomers on the county’s tables, there are actually quite a few places, such as Yellow Brick Bank and the newly opened Stone Soup Bistro, both of which are in Shepherdstown.  These are nice places with fairly sophisticated fare, but they mostly cater to a limited clientele.  If you want to see the impact of newcomers on a larger scale, that can be found at Charles Town Races and Slots.

Yes, I said Races and Slots.  I know the image is of old ladies throwing their Social Security checks into a slot machine one nickel at a time only to take a feed break by being herded into some buffet line.  While that scene is present, there is also the Skyline Terrace, where I found things I wasn’t expecting, such as panzanella salad, Moroccan couscous with chickpeas, braised short ribs and a crepe station.   

A must have at the Skyline Terrace is the dry aged strip steak with roasted garlic.  The chef de cuisine at the Skyline Terrace is one of those newcomers to the area. He is originally from Kansas City, and that culinary heritage is on display in this dish.  

Jefferson County is 90 minutes away from Baltimore, which considering it is “Almost Heaven," isn’t too far a drive.  
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:18 AM | | Comments (10)
        

Appetizers becoming tapas

MezzeTapas.JPG

 

How did appetizers suddenly become tapas?

I know how tapas became tapas. People liked the idea of little tidbits while they had a glass of wine in a bar, so they embraced the Spanish tradition. It's easier to have a conversation when you're nibbling rather than focusing on a full meal.

Then as tapas caught on here, they evolved into a full meal with a lot of small dishes. ...

Pretty soon you could spend as much on a tapas meal as you could on a traditional one -- or more because they seem relatively inexpensive, but you just keep ordering and ordering.

Nowadays "tapas" doesn't have to refer to anything even vaguely Spanish. I've seen hummus labeled "tapas." Or how about the Asian tapas at Red Maple in Mount Vernon?

But guest poster John's description of the tavern he went to that had shifted some of its appetizers into the tapas category amused me. He didn't tell us what they were, but I have a mental picture of the owner saying to the cook, "Can we call the Buffalo wings tapas? Probably not. Better leave those in the appetizer category. How about the fried oysters? Yeah, those'll do."

Maybe tonight when I serve leftovers to my family, I'll arrange them on little plates and tell them we're having tapas for dinner.

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:49 AM | | Comments (27)
        

August 20, 2009

Eating out and panhandlers

combalou.jpg

 

My friend Scott stopped me in the hall at lunchtime to complain. He's been eating out a lot this summer because until recently it's been relatively cool and the outdoor tables are very inviting. He asked me if I had noticed that there was more panhandling around outdoor tables than there used to be. He mentioned Fells Point specifically.

I can't say that I have, but I'm not surprised. I've noticed more panhandlers in general recently. I'm not sure what, if anything, restaurants can do about it. ...

I had a couple of very nice sidewalk cafe photos, by the way, but they were of restaurants where I have no idea if panhandling is a problem. So I used a photo of the now-closed Combalou Cafe, which used to be where Iggies is now.

(Nanine Hartzenbusch/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:00 PM | | Comments (42)
        

A voice from our past

This e-mail just popped up in my inbox:

Hello, EL! Finally, after 4.5 months of computer "downage" and five weeks post-re-relocation, I am back online. The weather here in MKE has been gloriously mild - sunny and humid-free, for the time being. At least it's not like Bmore's August!
 
I had the occasion to enjoy dinner at a popular Mexican restaurant the other day. The food was delicious but the noise level was practically unbearable.
 
I look forward to being a regular re-member of the Sandbox once again.
 
Piano Rob   

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:39 PM | | Comments (20)
        

Richard reviews Joss Cafe & Sushi Bar

TunaFlounder.jpg

 

Other Reviewer Richard reviewed the relatively new Joss Cafe in the paper today.

This is one of the most controversial places to open in Baltimore any time recently, so I wanted to make sure it had time to settle in before it got reviewed. The place seems to have gotten its act together. ...


I was interested in Richard's observation that hard-core sushi addicts might not enjoy it as much as he did. I know exactly what he means.

Has any of you gone recently? I know when it first opened, Joss was having problems, so it's not really fair to comment if that's the only time you ate there. 

(Tasha Treadwell/Sun photographer)
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:47 AM | | Comments (20)
        

Hello, Lenny's

I just talked to Lenny's owner, Alan Smith, who told me that he's just signed a five-year lease to stay in his current location on Corned Beef Row. (He also posted a comment below my earlier entry on the sale of the property.)

“We are staying on Lombard Street,” he said. “When the time comes to leave our current location, we are planning to continue...on or around Corned Beef Row.” ...

He also asked me to mention the renovations he's just completed, with photographs showing the history of Lombard Street.

And maybe most important, he wants people to know the Owings Mills location isn't going anywhere.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:53 AM | | Comments (3)
        

Write down my order, please

WaitressWriting.jpgEvery since I read John's Shallow Thought Wednesday guest post yesterday, I've been trying to think of a valid reason why a server wouldn't want to write down my order.

All I've been able to come up with is that it's quicker to commit the order to memory so he or she doesn't have to write it twice. These days the server is probably putting it into a computer, not pinning up a paper check for the kitchen to use. ...

 

That's not good news for the customer, unless you're at a fine-dining restaurant where servers are  tested on their memory before getting the job. (I'm making that up.)

In fact, that may be where the practice got started in the first place for more casual restaurants. Maybe they wanted to seem more like the fine-dining model than, say, the diner where the gum-chewing waitress laboriously takes down your order on her little pad.

Of course, this is all random musing on my part while I'm doing the dishes last night.

But isn't it frustrating when they don't write down your order and then get it wrong? If you fall into the category of picky eater, which of course I don't, haha just kidding, you forever find yourself picking the onions off the house salad or getting lemon AND cream but not the requested milk for your tea.

I have to admit when a server does get the order straight without writing it down, it's very impressive. I feel like he or she is really paying attention, and we should tip accordingly.

(Algerina Perna/Sun staff)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:24 AM | | Comments (25)
        

August 19, 2009

Profile of our Top Chef chef and more

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I hope everyone got a chance to read the centerpiece story in the Taste section today. It's on Baltimore's second Top Chef contestant, Jesse Sandlin. Her cooking could not be more refined and elegant (or at least it was when I reviewed Abacrombie Fine Foods), but she sounds wild and crazy fun. Check out those tats.

I'll link to my Table Talk column as well. The lead item is on the American Visionary Art Museum's new cafe.

And then there's always Top 10 Wednesday, and the comments that have been selected to go with it.

(Photo courtesy of Bravo) 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:28 PM | | Comments (11)
        

Goodbye, Lenny's Deli

JackGoldenson.jpgThis isn't exactly the same as some of the other closings I've reported on, and it probably has nothing to do with the economy, and you have three years to make your farewells (and eat a hot pastrami on rye with coleslaw and Russian dressing), but say goodbye to Lenny's Delicatessen on Corned Beef Row.

The Jewish Museum of Baltimore and the Associated have bought the property. Here are the details.

The photo was all we had in the archives. It was taken in 1982, when Lenny's was owned by Jack Goldenson and called Jack's Corned Beef.

(Sun archives)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:31 PM | | Comments (24)
        

The Unsung Commenter Award winner is...

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On May 24, 2007, about a month after Dining@Large started, Darlene posted her first comment. (I presume she had been reading along almost from the beginning and finally got up her nerve to comment, but I don't know.)

Since then she's been a regular but not flashy contributor to the blog, one who is always supportive and good-natured to me and to other commenters. She's one of the reasons Dining@Large has a reputation for civility.

What, you don't remember any Darlene? That simply means you started dropping by recently. Sometime in February or March, 2008, she decided to spread her wings and take on a cool new blog name.

You know her as Dahlink.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:14 PM | | Comments (42)
        

Change of menu

I've written about the ways fine-dining restaurants are changing their offerings to cope with the recession, but I hadn't thought about places farther down the food chain. Luckily I have our Shallow Thought Wednesday guru and guest poster John Lindner to do that for me. Here's John. EL

We dropped into an old haunt we hadn’t darkened in a couple months and discovered it had altered its menu.

The first thing I noticed was that the new menu looked less crowded, brighter. After that, OK, there seemed to be a couple new entrees, but by and large the new line-up seemed a rearranged rendition of the old one. And then I saw it:

Tapas.

Immediately, I was curious. This is not a tapas kind of place.* I did a double take. Tapas? Really?

I checked out the tapas selections. Hmmmm. They looked a lot like the old appetizer selections.

Sure enough, the appetizer list was shorter. But together, the tapas and appetizer lists were about as long as the old appetizer list.

I couldn’t believe it. But then, tapas, small plates, appetizers, right? Why’d I feel cheated?

Maybe I felt cheated because the place also changed its fry style from crisp and delicate to desultorily spiced nubbies served room-temp cool. My generous spirit compels me to suggest that the cool part may have been an unintended variation on a theme. They also dished up a lot fewer fries than in the recent past.

The whole menu change reeked of economic rather than culinary motivations. It was like meeting an old acquaintance down on his luck, a bit worn at the elbows but sporting a cheap new tie.
I was in a dark and unexperimental mood so I didn’t explore the “tapas” menu. Next time.
 
Bonus gripe. Another one for the stat books: Our waiter didn’t write a word of our three orders down. Two entrees showed up without items we ordered and with two or three items we didn’t. “I guess I didn’t hear you” was his excuse. Next time I’m bringing paper and pen.
 
* It’s a tavern that rises to its regulars’ expectations, which aren’t stratospheric in these parts. It’s frustrating because it wouldn’t take much to make it a stellar casual dining spot. But the food’s almost always across-the-board flat.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:25 AM | | Comments (18)
        

An e-mail from the owner of Jordan's Steakhouse

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I got a long e-mail from owner Jordan Naftal yesterday after my post on the closing of Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City appeared. What it boiled down to was that he and his landlord are embroiled in a complicated rent dispute.

You may want to hold onto those gift certificates a little longer. If things get settled between them, the restaurant may reopen.

"I am waiting to work things out with our landlord," he said, "and will find out about re-opening when we speak this afternoon [which was yesterday]. I would be happy to give you an update after speaking with him. We also look forward to opening in Maple Lawn this November."

I'll give Naftal a call when I get into work.

Maple Lawn, for those of you who haven't been following the story, is where the now-closed oZ. Chop House is. Naftal and Carlos Venegas, the owner of Ranazul, are partners hoping to open Carlos and Jordan's Steakhouse there. (I wrote about it at greater length in last week's Table Talk.)

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:09 AM | | Comments (15)
        

August 18, 2009

Is the B & O American Brasserie in jeopardy?

BrasserieKitchen.jpgThese days it seems as if the unexpected is always happening.

I wrote at length about the B & O American Brasserie, which is in the same building as the brand new luxury Hotel Monaco Baltimore downtown. The next thing I know there's a possibility that the hotel will be auctioned off next month for not paying a Millersville lumber supplier for the doors and wood trim.

Here's the story by reporter Ed Gunts.

(Kim Hairston/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:53 PM | | Comments (6)
        

Eating before the movies

KimCheeNamKang.jpgI like to pretend that I have a normal relationship with food, and then something happens that makes me wonder. A friend and I were going to the movies last night at the Charles, and we talked in the afternoon about where we should go to get a bite to eat first.

Normally we would probably stop in at Tapas Teatro next door; but it was Monday, when it and the crepe place near it are closed. We went back and forth endlessly, mentioning every close-by restaurant we could think of (and between us we know a few) and coming up with reasons why they weren't quite right. ...

Neo Viccino is becoming a sports bar called Turps. Bolton Hill's b is closed Mondays as well.  And so on.

When my friend called back later in the afternoon to continue the conversation, she was in her car; and we were on the phone for another 20 minutes as she cruised up N. Charles Street scouting out possibilities.

That seemed weird even to me.

On the other hand, we couldn't find the place we wanted. In the end we ate at Nam Kang. This is the Korean restaurant a few blocks away best known for being open until 4 a.m. It was OK, and the people were super nice, but it wasn't exactly the cuisine we had had in mind.

I want someone to open a place called the Monday Only Restaurant near the Charles. It would only be opened Mondays, duh; and given the number of people going to the movies last night, there would be a built-in audience.

"In the Loop," by the way, is a laugh-out-loud funny movie.

(Photo of Nam Kang kim chee, not one of my finest efforts, by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:51 PM | | Comments (37)
        

Announcing the Unsung Commenter Award

I've decided to give out an Unsung Commenter Award, perhaps as early as tomorrow. This will go to someone who has been incredibly loyal to Dining@Large but doesn't get the recognition he or she deserves because he or she isn't a guest poster or didn't happen to make the 10,000th comment or whatever.

A small token of my gratitude will be awarded.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:34 AM | | Comments (16)
        

Jordan's Steakhouse closed

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After reporting in Table Talk last week that Jordan Naftal of Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City will be taking over the now-closed oZ. in Maple Lawn, I got some surprising news today from several sources.

Jordan's is closed, with a sign on the door saying the locks have been changed by the landlord. I've heard from a couple of sources that he's far behind in the rent and servers have not been paid.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:31 AM | | Comments (46)
        

Top 10 Mistakes Restaurant Goers Make

RealSeafoodDesserts.jpgIn an earlier post we talked about the mistakes diners make. Not the things that annoy the wait staff, which was the subject of another post, but things we do as restaurant goers that make the experience less than stellar.

I even asked a couple of restaurant owners things like should we not order fish on Mondays? (I learned the only day when seafood and produce deliveries aren't made is Sunday.) They weren't going to tell me what their chef's night off is; but if you could find that out from your server, it would be something to make note of for future visits. ...

Should I tell you not to walk in when there's a "help wanted" sign posted in the window? That's probably too obvious.

Anyway, here's my list:

1) Making your reservation at 7 p.m. (like everyone else in Baltimore).

2) Eating out on Mother's Day. Every other holiday I can think of reasons why you would want to eat out, but there are better ways to honor your mother than taking her out on the busiest restaurant day of the year.

3) Not asking politely to be moved if you don't like your table because, say, the customer at the next table is wearing heavy perfume or you're seated too near the kitchen door.

4) Not asking politely if loud music or the air conditioning can be turned down when you're uncomfortable. Sometimes servers can do something about it, sometimes they can't. But most restaurants want to be accommodating to their customers within reason.

5) Ignoring what a restaurant does best when you order.

6) Filling up on bread before your expensive dinner has arrived. 

7) Making an enemy of your server by being rude. There are too many ways he or she can get back at you.

8) Ordering the second least expensive wine on the list so you don't look cheap. Do you think restaurant owners don't know people do this and price their bottles accordingly?

9) Ordering wine by the glass in a restaurant where wine probably doesn't move quickly.

10) Ordering dessert unless the place is known for its desserts. By the time it comes, you realize how full you are from dinner. Besides, the price of desserts has risen in inverse proportion as the number of mixed drinks being consumed before dinner has dropped.

(The desserts at the Real Seafood Co., pictured, are worth it. Photo by Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 AM | | Comments (110)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

August 17, 2009

The misleading wine list

RedWineGlass.jpgWe've been talking about service issues on this blog a lot lately, but this experience, posted on Slashfood earlier this month, is a new one on me. For the life of me, I can't figure out who benefited.

A quick recap if you don't feel like reading the long post I linked to: The blogger's wife thought she was ordering a $36 bottle of wine. The waiter came back to check to make sure she had ordered the right one, but pointed to a $315 bottle on the list with a very similar name. ...

He didn't point out that the names were very much the same because the wait staff is pushed to upsell in this particular New York restaurant.

She didn't notice and OK'd the expensive choice. The table drank it (and didn't like it!). No one noticed the mistake until the check came.

I don't see what you could do in this situation but pay for the wine. You drank it. But how did the restaurant benefit from alienating regular customers? And how did the waiter benefit from this either?

Interestingly, one of the comments provides a link to the wine list in question. Maybe I overlooked it, but I don't see that the less expensive wine is still on the list.

(Glenn Fawcett/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:11 PM | | Comments (27)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Monday afternoon quarterbacking: 13.5 % Wine Bar

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I seem to be getting later and later with the regular features this week, and it's only Monday. Oh, well.

Yesterday I reviewed the 13.5 % Wine Bar in Hampden. A few years ago it would have been reviewed by the Other Reviewer, the one that wrote for the Live tab, while I was reviewing more formal restaurants.

But these days, it sometimes feels like only wine bars are opening, and once opened they are the only new eating places that are an instant success. If they have more food than a cheese plate or two, it's a plus. ...

I got a funny e-mail this morning about my review:

Although my wife and I don't get out as much as we used to (recent baby), I still like learning about places that I would like to try some day. However, I have to admit you almost fooled me today.  I have been telling my wife how sensitive you are to noise.  It seems that almost weekly you mention how loud a place is.  Usually it is near the beginning, but this week you held out until the third from the last paragraph.  Just an observation and not meant as criticism, and I have to admit it keeps me reading the reviews every week. 

Sincerely from an avid follower,

I can't decide whether he wishes I would stop commenting on a restaurant's noise, or if he will be disappointed if I don't. Anyway, it's better than the folks who want me to take a decibel reader, or whatever you call the gadget that measures noise, with me on my reviews and then assign stars for the noise levels.  Gee, that would be inconspicuous.

All of which is to say that 13.5 % Wine Bar has a lot of virtues, but being able to hear your dining or drinking companions isn't one of them.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:29 PM | | Comments (12)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

What do you do about a bad review?

SeafoodPappas.jpgI was thinking this morning -- as I checked my e-mail and saw there was yet another e-mail about my Pappas review -- about how restaurants handle bad reviews. In the case of Pappas, of course, bad is a little strong. Less than enthusiastic might be a better description.

I don't know if the restaurant asked its loyal customers to write me or if it was simply a spontaneous eruption of outrage that's still deeply felt, but that's one way to counteract a bad review. Or to simply express your anger. ...

Another way restaurant owners have responded in the past is to write a Letter to the Editor. Or these days with the blog they could write me and I would post their rebuttal once I confirmed it was theirs.

Or they could respond the way Piv's Pub did to Richard's review, which I thought was incredibly clever.

It reminds me of Gizmodo post last spring about how San Francisco's Pizzeria Delfina responded to bad Yelp reviews. The restaurant had T-shirts printed up with the worst comments on them for the servers to wear.

But back to the Pappas e-mail this morning. I wasn't ready to handle a lot of rage this morning so I put off opening it. When I did, here's what it said. (There's some Zen principle here I violated by  too much anticipation.)

I read your review and don't doubt a word.  And not to demean anyone, I grew up in Hamilton, and regularly drove by Pappas most of my time in Baltimore, it's the ideal setting for the local residents.  As you said, nothing fancy; probably the same dishes prepared the same way for years and the locals love it (or at least see no need for change); kinda like the old Sip 'n Bite or Jimmy's in Fells Point, the steak place on Frederick Road in Catonsville, Kibby's and one or two places on Fort Avenue (although they may have changed direction since I left B'more). Is the house of Welsh still open?  That was a favorite of my parents in the 50's and 60's.

GregA

(Tasha Treadwell/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:13 AM | | Comments (4)
        

Next Sunday's review: Real Seafood Co.

RealSeafood1.jpgI had to get out of town for next Sunday's review.

Restaurant Week is a killer for critics. Even if a restaurant is offering its regular menu as well as the fixed-price one, I worry that the kitchen's attention is on the special offerings and not what we'll be ordering. Plus the wait staff may be dealing with more than it normally has to.

So next Sunday's review will be of a new Annapolis restaurant, the Real Seafood Co. ...

It's a moderately upscale Michigan-based chain, but a very small one, made up of four restaurants. This is the first one in the Mid-Atlantic.

I'm not sure why a seafood chain would decide to open in Annapolis, which has more than its share of good locally owned places where you can get fish and shellfish, but it seems to be competing successfully. The $19.95 lobster dinner special that's running right now doesn't hurt.

If you want, the waitress will draw on surgical gloves and de-shell it for you at the table, something I haven't seen before. But I'm not sure I could enjoy eating one with its giant 25-foot brother looming over me on the ceiling.

Just kidding.

To see what I thought of our meal, check out my review in next Sunday's Arts & Entertainment section.

(Photo by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:29 AM | | Comments (5)
Categories: Review Preview
        

August 16, 2009

The Fairy Food Post

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NotableM, Joyce W. and Sean did a good job of trying to stave off the Fairy Food Post, but somebody, not mentioning any names, was still a teeny bit grumpy. Too bad for the rest of you, but you know who you have to blame.

Now to the fairy food. It's the stuff, as you may remember from childhood fairy tales, that tastes delicious but bad things happen when you eat it, or at best it's so insubstantial that it disappears at inappropriate moments.

What am I thinking about? ...

Nabisco Sugar Wafers.

Our vending machine at work sells a package of them that tempts me every time I walk by. I have no idea why. If I think about a Sugar Wafer while I'm eating it, I realize not only does it have no food value, but it really has no taste other than sweetness.

Not only that, when I finally did succumb (one time only when I had missed lunch), I was amazed to find the package contained 400 calories. I didn't think you could eat a whole box of Sugar Wafers and get 400 calories.

Fairy food No. 2: Cotton candy. I know it's just colored spun sugar and has even less taste and texture than Sugar Wafers, but it's still almost irresistible if it's being made fresh in one of those magical spinning machines at a circus or fair.

Fairy food No. 3: angel food cake. I've never really looked at the nutritional composition of angel food cake, but it's probably better than the first two simply because it contains egg whites.

But that's offset by the fact that you are essentially eating a sponge if you think about it. And you can keep eating and eating and suddenly the whole cake is gone, something like the Turkish delight in The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. This, of course, has never happened to me, but I can tell it could happen.

(Photo courtesy of Walt Disney Pictures)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:56 PM | | Comments (24)
        

Grumpy Sunday

FairyFood.jpg

 

I had to laugh when I read the comments under the Comment of the Week to find they had turned into not one but two disagreements. It's like waking up with 100 husbands the morning after the Ravens lose.

If everyone doesn't put on his or her smiley face RIGHT NOW, I'm going to have to write the dreaded Fairy Food Post to cheer you up.

(Illustration by Arthur Rackham) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:02 AM | | Comments (37)
        

A local version of Top Chef at Roy's

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Now here's a strange event if you have $85 to spare and you're a fan of Top Chef.

Three students from the Baltimore International College culinary school will pair off with local chefs in a cooking contest at Roy's in Harbor East tomorrow night, Aug. 17.

For your $85 (excluding tax and tip, of course), you get a five-course meal, including food prepared as part of the competition. The dishes they create will have to be Hawaiian fusion cuisine.

I can't imagine how that works, and I'm not about to call anyone early Sunday morning about the press release, but maybe someone who's going to go can fill us in. ...

 

Jeff Sarzyuski, Lisa Davis and Rachael Brosh are the students; chefs Jesse Sandlin of Abacrombie Fine Foods (who is actually on Top Chefs this season), Nino Germano of LaScala Ristorante, Franklin Thomas of the Westin Hotel, and Rey Eugenio of Roy’s will work with them. I'm not sure why there are four chefs, but anyway. The prize is an internship working with Roy’s chefs.

If you have a culinary competition, you have to have celebrity judges, right? The ones tomorrow night will be Reagan Warfiel, host of Jojo, Reagan & the Mix Morning Show; Downtown Diane, entertainment reporter for 105.7 FM; Rodney Henry, owner of Dangerously Delicious Pies; Anita Marks, host of the MASN’s Anita Marks Show; and FOX 45 reporter Myranda Stephens. 

The event is called the Aloha Kitchen Challenge, and Roy Yamaguchi himself is coming to town to oversee it. Your dinner will consist of one course from each of the competing teams, one course from Yamaguchi, and one from the Baltimore restaurant's head chef Rey Eugenio.

Reservations are required. I really hope that someone who does this will report back.

(Photo courtesy of Roy's)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:26 AM | | Comments (16)
        

August 15, 2009

The Comment of the Week

sas, unbelieveaboh and others attacking EiEC for "entitlement," and not acting like an adult, please read the original email where she specifically says " it also seems unreasonable to expect the restaurant comp the dish."

When you're through reading that, please read this.

Posted by: Jon Parker | August 15, 2009 8:42 AM

I was very grateful to Jon for posting this comment this morning. I should have stepped in sooner, but if I'd wanted to be a policeman I wouldn't be in this line of work. ...

I'd be grateful if all of you would use the preview function to reread your comments before posting. If it's not phrased the way it would be if you were saying it to the person face to face, it's probably best to rephrase it.

Poor Elizabeth in Ellicott City. She wasn't the one scraping the cranberry sauce off her sandwich in the first place.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:17 PM | | Comments (51)
        

Asking the server 'What's good?'

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Commenting under an earlier post, a server or bartender complained about customers asking if a particular dish is good. Or simply, "What's good?"

I think there must be an axiom that the answer's complexity is proportional to the cost of the meal.

I agree it's a foolish question from the server's point of view, and I can see how irritating it could be. But I bet the servers who come up with a more convincing answer than "Everything's good" get a bigger tip. ...

When we ate at the Prime Rib recently our waiter considered our variation on this question with great seriousness. I don't remember exactly what we asked. It sounded better, but it was basically "What's good?"

I waited for him to say, "You idiot, the restaurant is named after the prime rib," but of course he didn't. And when my husband asked which of the oyster preparations was better, our waiter said the kitchen would fix them casino-style if we wanted (not on the menu), which immediately made us feel as if we had insider information.

The career servers, or even the smart young ones who are working a temporary job, will subtly suggest that you and they are co-conspirators, pooling your knowledge to come up with a fantastic meal. They will draw you out. "Do you feel like seafood tonight? I've been getting a lot of compliments on the red snapper."

They will always have a suggestion, because anyone can get overwhelmed with the size of some menus, or feel indecisive when there are too many delicious possibilities.

(Brendan Cavanaugh/special to the Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:51 AM | | Comments (52)
        

August 14, 2009

When you just don't like your dish

Elizabeth in Ellicott City wrote me yesterday with this question: When a dish isn't spoiled, oversalted or not fixed the way you ordered it, but you still can't eat it, what to do? As she says, you can't expect the restaurant to absorb the loss. here's her e-mail: ...

I was wondering if any other of your blog readers have run into this ... My husband is a very picky eater and occasionally finds the dishes he orders inedible -- not because they were prepared improperly, but often because he doesn't like the flavor. For instance, we recently ate at the new Diamondback Tavern in Ellicott City. He tried a sandwich that is essentially a Thanksgiving leftovers dish -- a sub with turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, etc. The cranberry sauce was so sour, he couldn't enjoy the sandwich. He tried his best to scrape it off and salvage the meal. It is unfortunate to pay for a dish you didn't enjoy and go home still hungry, but it also seems unreasonable to expect the restaurant comp the dish. What do you readers do in this situation?

Thank you,

Elizabeth in Ellicott City

I, too, am a picky eater. (Duh.) And I know I can be a pain in the neck when I'm not reviewing. I try not to leave anything to chance so I'm not in the situation described above -- although worrying about sour cranberry sauce wouldn't have occurred to me.

The fact of the matter is, though, that good servers will notice if you aren't eating something, and will offer to bring you something else. Good restaurants won't charge you for the uneaten food. They figure generosity will pay off in the long run.

If that doesn't happen, though, I'd still order something else. Going home still hungry wouldn't be an option for me.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:55 PM | | Comments (45)
        

Hash browns or home fries?

hashbrowns.JPGWhen Midnight Sun Sam complained to me that people in Baltimore didn't know the difference between hash browns and home fries, I laughed at him and said, "Write about it and I'll post it." I had forgotten that conversation today when he asked me if it was "hash browns" or "hashed browns."

Now I deeply regret my rude response. ("Don't you know how to Google?") When I looked in my e-mail just now I found this brilliant bit of potato poetry. I'm so ashamed. EL

Sup home fries?

It's your cuz, hash browns.

I don't know about you, man, but I'm kinda goin' through an identity crisis right now. I mean, we're both spudly, that's for sure. But I feel like you've been steppin' on my game in Bmore for too long. ...

 

What am I? I'll tell you what I am: I'm a potato that's been shredded into thin strips, tossed in a frying pan and cooked to perfection.

What are you? I'll tell you what you are: You're a potato that's been chopped into cubes and fried with onions and such.

You're soft, man. I'm crispy. You're lumpy. I'm slim and sizzlin'. Yeah, that's right. I went there.

For some reason, just about every time John Q. Public orders up a steamy batch of hash browns in this city, what does the waitress bring? Home fries.

I'm getting sick and tired of it, son.

Matter of fact, you can only get the real deal in, like, a couple places around town. Golden West used to serve me, but they copped out a couple months back. That's all right, though -- you can find me in big joints like McDonald's and Denny's. I roll deep like that.

All I gotta say is, you stick to your name, home fries, and stop coppin' my cred.

I'm just lookin' for a little respect, that's all.

Peace,

Hash browns
 
(AP photo)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:50 PM | | Comments (42)
        

Kicking it Old School

Valley%20View%20Inn.jpgThe only thing missing from this excellent guest post by Robert of Cross Keys is the recipe for the dish he's taking to his pool party. Here's Robert. EL

Last week my wife let it be known that I live in the public eye.  And like many other elected office holders, I am getting ready for the big political event that takes place this week.  

Yes, I do serve.  I’m on my condo’s board of directors.  And this week, of course, is the annual Cross Keys pool party.

As perhaps the only Republican office holder in all of Baltimore City, I realize that I am vulnerable, even in Cross Keys. It is imperative that I bring my A game to this event, and by that I mean I have to impress with my covered dish. ...

This year I’m going with a squash and potato salad with a dressing of sour cream, dill, and sautéed scallions. I picked up this recipe from an episode of The Hippy Gourmet on PBS that features one of my favorite lines from a cooking show: “Hippies love potatoes.”

I think this recipe communicates that I understand the plight of people.  It is recession chic.

Last year before the wheels fell off the economy, and everyone started bragging about how much money they are not spending and how many coupons they are clipping, I was free to show off a little more.  I made a krab, pea and tomato salad that I patterned off a similar salad that is served at Petit Louis.

Ah, but those days seem so far away now.  It seems there needs to be a special occasion, like Restaurant Week, to break out the krab.

Speaking of days that seem so far away, I found myself at an Old School restaurant last week near Perring Plaza in Parkville.  Well, I assume it is Parkville, but I know there are some Chamber of Commerce types who insist that area be referred to as Towson.

My wife and I were in the area to try the new Hibachi Grill, but a combination of a 30-minute wait and watching people driving around the buffet in their Rascals made me reconsider our dinner plans.

So I drove down Satyr Hill, and I saw a tavern sadistically placed at the corner of hairpin turn.  It’s an old building with red lettering that spells out Valley View Inn. Probably when it was built a valley was actually visible from the grounds, but now you see the beltway.

We walked in and I heard a woman yelling: “I’m so crazy; I’m so crazy” in a classic Baltimore accent the kind of which, since moving to Cross Keys, I don’t hear too often outside of those ever so frequent commercials for Mr. Tire.

We made our way through the bar and back to the dining room.   Everything was gray: the carpet, the walls, the tables, the chairs, the artwork, the customers, everything.   

At that point I was wondering if I made a good decision.  I looked at the menu and nothing was speaking to me.  My wife asked me what I was going to have.  I said, "Maybe a sandwich."  She repeated what I said, only with a greater sense of dejection.

I knew what she wanted without asking her. She wanted the steak like she always does. My wife will order the steak at any place from the Prime Rib to Denny’s.  I understand the former, but when the latter is priced at a similar point to a Moons Over My Hammy, it is a given that quality of the beef is going to be lacking.   

Now the steak she wanted was the porterhouse special for $17.  It wasn’t priced so low as to have been wearing a saddle last week, but it was certainly a questionable call.

I went on for a good 15 minutes telling her about my beef quality theories and corresponding price points, but it became clear that she was set on the porterhouse.  

I knew that I couldn’t just get a sandwich, as the price differential of our two items would leave her feeling guilty.  It would also leave me looking emasculated.  As it was she was already drinking a Bloody Mary, while I was there sipping an unsweetened iced tea.

I ended up ordering the fried chicken, which was listed as a house favorite.  She got the porterhouse, medium rare.

Both of us were pleasantly surprised with our meals.  The chicken was well seasoned, crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.  The porterhouse was perfectly cooked to order, and it didn’t have that livery taste that too many steaks seem to have.  

Considering the kitchen did a good job with the main courses, I asked the waitress if any of the desserts were made in house.  She said only the rice pudding, so I decided to pass.  

Our waitress worked a double that day, and we were her last table.  Since I understand the plight of the people, I knew it was time to the pay the check.  

(Photo of Valley View Inn bar courtesy of Jason Knauer/Metromix)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:54 AM | | Comments (26)
        

Critic Frank Bruni on Nightline: Wow

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Frank Bruni, who will step down as the New York Times restaurant critic later this month, will appear on ABC News' Nightline next Wednesday, Aug. 19.

He'll be there to promote his book, “Born Round: The Secret History of a Full Time Eater." I knew nothing about it until I got the press release about the interview.

I was staggered. ...

I assumed it would be one of those pleasant reads about what disguises he wore and some of his adventures while reviewing restaurants for the Times.

Not so.

Apparently in the interview with ABC's John Berman, he discusses his bulimic episodes in college, the fact that he tried the Atkins diet at age 8, and his taking laxatives and amphetamines to control his weight. (He says only for a short time.)

Berman asks him when it all started, and Bruni says:

You know, my mother used to always talk about a time when I was 18 months old and I was sitting in a high chair. And she had fed me two good sized burgers and I threw a tantrum because she wouldn’t feed me a third one. And that was sort of like the defining narrative of my childhood. I could just eat and eat and eat and by the time I was 8 I was enough overweight that people were teasing my initials FB stood for fat boy.

Of course, he'll talk about being a critic as well, but I doubt if there will be many surprises there.

This is one interview I don't want to miss. Not that I can stay up until 11:35 p.m. when it starts, but I'm definitely TiVoing. You can also watch some of it the next morning on Good Morning America.

(Photo of Bruni and Berman courtesy of ABC News)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:53 AM | | Comments (19)
        

August 13, 2009

Richard reviews the Whetstone Grill

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Today Other Reviewer Richard reviews the Whetstone Grill in Locust Point, an offshoot of the popular Hull Street Blues.

So many of the cheap-eats sorts of places that are his territory are difficult to review. Unless they are the proverbial hidden gem -- and how many of those do we reviewers get? -- you feel bad saying anything negative when they clearly serve the needs of the neighborhood and aren't trying to do anything more.

The Whetstone sounds like that kind of place from Richard's review, but he makes a good point that it could be much more if the owners wanted it to.

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:11 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Unlimited tapas for Restaurant Week

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Midnight Sun Sam tells me he's going to La Tasca, the tapas bar in the Inner Harbor, for Restaurant Week.

That surprised me until he said you get unlimited tapas for your $20.09 at lunch or $30.09 at dinner.

My reaction: a) I wanted a mini-review of his meal and b) I didn't believe him. ...

But sure enough, when I checked the Restaurant Week Web site, it confirmed that the offer was unlimited tapas.

It still seemed unlikely, so I called La Tasca to make sure.

I spoke to Tan Ahmed, a manager/server, who said it's been working very well for them this week. Not only that, the same deal is available every Wednesday. Ahmed said it's been a good way to introduce folks to tapas who aren't familiar with the concept.

Sam, we await your review.

(David Hobby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:40 PM | | Comments (44)
        

The best fast food in America

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Thanks to LEC for bringing this exciting news to my attention: Esquire magazine has named In-N-Out Burger the best fast food in America. This was determined by a survey of "top chefs."

Not that the news does us much good here in Baltimore.

How's this for an accolade? ...

"It's the perfect example of classic American fast food. It satisfies my craving for meat, crisp fries, and their special sauce."

— Thomas Keller, The French Laundry, Yountville, California and Per Se, New York City

(Photo courtesy of the Esquire Web site)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:04 PM | | Comments (18)
        

I'll have the eau de boeuf, thanks

All I can say is that this is my favorite Owl Meat Gravy guest post ever. EL

I sense a hint of black cardamom and a touch of Madagascar vanilla and ... what is that? ... gardenia? creosote? ... Oh my god! What is happening in my mouth? Grandma Mary, are you back from Heaven? Is that ... oh, someone just strafed the room with a cloud of old lady perfume. Your Windsong stays on my, Windsong stays on my mind .. because it's coating the back of my throat and sinuses. Puh, puh, gaaaaaahhhh.
 
Restaurants should ban perfume and cologne. No need for a law. Simply put up a picture of a skunk with a line through it.
 
An essential part of experiencing wine and food is aroma. Noxious odors ruin the experience. Some restaurants ban cell phones because they cause sensory pollution. An assault on your nose and mouth is worse than your ears, plus perfumes can trigger allergies and migraines.
 
Why do you want me to smell you? I think this new Luftwiffe bombardment is part of a trend of insensitivity to other's sensory privacy and autonomy. It's an assault of narcissism for people to broadcast the minutiae of their lives with Facebook, Twitter and text messages. In the past an I'm With Stupid t-shirt sufficed. I know that obnoxious cologne and perfume is not new, but it fits in with the new techno-narcissism. It's molecular tweeting ... twiffing.
 
I was eating dinner at the bar in a restaurant recently and a young guy sat next to me. I almost threw up from the olfactory assault of what seemed like Axe body spray, Irish Spring soap, Mennen Speed Stick, and recent congress with a goat.  Suddenly my calamari fra diavolo became calamari Dundork and a massive headache ensued. You should only be able to smell someone you have intimate contact with. Hey dude in the O's cap, I don't like you like that.
 
My sensualist's caveat: If my girlfriend wore eau du pesto, I would not push her off the plate. To have my woman smell like food?  Tasty. To have my food smell like old woman? Pass. I've never seen Jean Nate vinaigrette on a menu.
 
Perfume seeks to create an artificial sense of intimacy – with strangers. I can understand why prostitutes use it in that way – artificial intimacy is their cheddar. Hey, lady at the table next to me, if you need to flaunt your Jovan musk oil, save it for when you are walking your panther through the swamp at midnight. Right now I want full-on intimacy with my red snapper in tarragon white wine sauce.
 
Smell you later.smell%20baby%20crfx.jpg

 

(Photo credit: Getty Images)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:58 AM | | Comments (75)
        

The other side of Restaurant Week

MarieLouiseBistro2.jpgIn general, reaction to this summer's Restaurant Week has been pretty positive, but this comment interested me:

I'm skipping out on RW this year.

1) There aren't restaurants listed that haven't been to that I feel like I want and need to try -- usually my primary impetus.

2) I'm not exactly starving, but a recession year ain't great for even discounted fine dining.

3) In recent years, I've enjoyed restaurants that aren't participating in RW -- less crowds, less rush, generally better food.

Posted by: El Generalissimo | August 12, 2009 12:50 AM

It immediately started me wondering. ...

I doubt if any participating restaurant is going to admit that the event was less than a success for it, but I wonder how many people feel the way El Generalissimo does? Do most customers think of Restaurant Week as a way to get a less expensive meal and so welcome the opportunity twice a year, or are more than just a few getting jaded with it?

Is the recession a positive (you know what I mean) or a negative influence on Restaurant Week?

I wonder if the regular readers of this blog who consider themselves seriously interested in food are participating or not? Many of the mini-reviews have been from people who don't usually comment.

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:19 AM | | Comments (10)
        

August 12, 2009

Ruth's Chris updates itself

RuthsChrisPierV.jpgI've been meaning for a couple of days to link to this story that was published Monday, but Restaurant Week has gotten in the way.

The article discusses the ways the Ruth's Chris chain is scaling back in a response to the recession and its changing audience. But its problems could apply to any number of special-occasion restaurants.

We've talked about this in earlier posts on aging restaurants and on fixed-price menus and other ways special-occasion restaurants are keeping their heads above water. ...

I notice the Baltimore Ruth's Chris locations are offering a $39.95 three-course dinner all summer, as well as a couple of half-price wine days.

I actually didn't realize the Ruth's Chris parent group was in any trouble. (The article mentions plunging sales and heavy debt.) I suppose all special-occasion restaurants are feeling the pain, but steakhouse chains seemed less vulnerable than more imaginative restaurants.

I guess not.

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:41 PM | | Comments (6)
        

One new restaurant and a Top 10 Wednesday

AmericanBrasserie1.jpgThis week in Table Talk I tell readers about the new B & O American Brasserie adjacent to the Hotel Monaco Baltimore. I didn't put it in the column, but the press release listed "composting" as one of the eco-measures the kitchen is doing.

I asked the PR person why the kitchen was composting -- I mean, isn't this downtown Baltimore? It turns out the composting hasn't actually started yet, but maybe there'll be a roof garden or something. ...

I also got hold of Jordan Naftal, the owner of Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City, and found out more about what will be happening when he takes over oZ. Chophouse in Maple Lawn.

And, as usual, there's a Deal of the Week, a recurring feature that sometimes feels like just one bar special after another (not this week's, however). So if you know of any that aren't, please post below.

In today's Taste section there's also a reprint of last Tuesday's Top 10 on cream of crab soup, one of the most popular ones I've done recently. I was frankly amazed. I thought people really preferred Maryland crab and were no longer very interested in cream of crab because of the calories and cholesterol involved. Was I wrong.

(Kim Hairston/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:27 AM | | Comments (39)
        

Why we all make our reservations at 7 p.m.

BicycleStorefront.jpgI've been hunting around for a comment Hungry Hungry Hippo (I think) posted awhile back, and I just got sidetracked reading the entertaining discussion under The Worst Mistakes Diners Make. Don't even click on the link if you don't have time to get sucked in. (I didn't, but it happened anyway.)

I was looking for a remark -- which I never found, of course -- that I've been meaning to do a post on ever since. He, a career waiter, was complaining that everyone in Baltimore makes a reservation for 7 p.m. and then expects stellar service. ...

I had never thought about it, but I did usually choose 7 p.m. when I made restaurant reservations until I read his comment.

At home I'll eat later than that in the summer and earlier in the winter. But 7 p.m. somehow seems more civilized than 6:30 p.m. when I make reservations, but not so late that by the end of a leisurely meal I'll be nodding off.

Seven is Baltimore Restaurant Time, or BRT. It just seems the best time unless maybe it's a Saturday night. Even knowing I'll get better service if I make it earlier or later, I still gravitate toward it.

On the other hand, California Restaurant Time (CRT) is 8 p.m. or 9 p.m., and when I'm there I don't even want to eat any earlier. But when I'm eating out in Tennessee, 6 p.m. is pushing it.

Under the same post, by the way, there was another comment I wanted to follow up on. (Remember the headline of the post was The Worst Mistakes Diners Make.)

What would be of actual value would mistakes that diners make that effect them. For example:
    1.    Don't eat out on holidays or weekends (too busy)
    2.    Don't eat out on Mondays (leftover fish)
    3.    Don't eat out on Tuesdays (gremlins)
    4.    etc
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy 2 | March 14, 2009 7:39 PM

No. 1 might be "Don't make your dinner reservation for 7 p.m." But I, too, would be interested in hearing from restaurant staff about others. Remember, these would be things that benefit the customer.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:59 AM | | Comments (59)
        

August 11, 2009

Restaurant Week guessing game

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Have you seen the Sun's map of Restaurant Week restaurants? It's the cutest. Most of them are clustered together inside the beltway, but there's one lonely little restaurant far out to the northeast.

Try to guess what it is before you click on it to find out. (I couldn't guess.)

(Photo courtesy of mystery restaurant Web site)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:39 PM | | Comments (3)
        

Restaurant Week extended

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When Baltimore City had its first Restaurant Week four years ago, 60 restaurants took part. This summer the number has increased to 120; and Downtown Partnership, the organization that sponsors it, has just announced the promotion is being extended through Aug. 23. Some 90 restaurants will take part for a second week.

I took a quick look at the Restaurant Week Web site, and I don't immediately see a list of what those restaurants are. But I guess you would call to make reservations anyway, so it doesn't really matter.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:09 PM | | Comments (5)
        

The unannounced service charge

We've talked about tipping during Restaurant Week before, but I don't think this particular subject has come up: The unannounced gratuity added to a large party's check by the restaurant.

I'm sure the rationale is that servers get lower tips for the same amount of work with the cheaper fixed-price menu, but it seems like a good way to alienate customers -- odd when the whole point of Restaurant Week is to attract new ones.

If an establishment is going to add a 20 percent service charge to the check for larger parties, why not announce it on the menu given to the customer? Is there any argument for not doing that?

Or maybe it's just an oversight not to have it on the Restaurant Week menu. In that case, I think you let the customer tip at his discretion.

Here's the e-mail from Michael that prompted this: ...

My family and I visited a well known and Zagat-rated establishment in Locust Point last evening. The food was mediocre as it was a limited menu at best, since this was during restaurant week. The huge surprise arrived when I received the bill and a 20% gratuity had been added to the bill. Nowhere on the one page menu was there any mention of a mandatory 20% gratuity for parties of 6 or more. Needless to say, I was close to incensed at this addition to my bill. I expressed my dissatisfaction to our server, who provided us with fine, but not exceptional service. She did not offer to reduce the amount. I completed a survey card indicating my strong displeasure with this fee.

You must know that while completing both my undergraduate and graduate degrees in DC, I was gainfully employed in some very nice dining establishments and, since I worked in the industry, I consider myself to reward fine service at the conclusion of a meal, without being “forced” to fork over an unannounced and unprinted 20% gratuity for a party of 6 or more.

At the conclusion of our meal, my father and sister chatted with the owners outside the restaurant and it was all I could do to withhold any additional comment. I have frequented many fine (read expensive) Baltimore restaurants and have never been assessed more than an 18% gratuity for a large party…that was a policy clearly printed on the menu.


Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:33 AM | | Comments (50)
Categories: Tipping
        

Post your Restaurant Week reviews here

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DurhamSt. just sent me a mini-review of his Restaurant Week experience at Alizee because he couldn't find the right post to comment under.

I've been meaning to create this entry for just such reviews -- I shouldn't have waited this long.

Review away.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:09 AM | | Comments (76)
        

Top 10 Dishes for $10 or Under

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This Top 10 could have gone several ways. It could be a list of good dishes at down-home eateries, where you wouldn't expect the food to be expensive.  Or it could be a list of really good bargains at chains. Commenters under an earlier post had suggestions for both.

I decided to limit it to places that were a little more unexpected than either of those. Maybe the restaurants on my list are places you've wanted to try but thought they might be too pricey. Or maybe you've simply forgotten the good review I gave them.

Obviously this list is heavily weighted toward places I've been to in the last year or so, but I hope you'll round it out with other recommendations.  And I had to rely maybe too much on small plates to keep the price at $10 or under.

Still, I don't think you'll go wrong with any of these: ...

* Handmade ravioli stuffed with chicken and mushrooms with braised kale, a foie gras tarragon cream sauce and truffle oil at Bistro Blanc for $10

* Roast pork belly with pickled peaches and scallion jam over cornbread at the Brewer's Art for $9

* Masala dosa (spiced potatoes, onions and lentils) at the Carlyle Club with sambar and fresh coconut chutney for $8

* Red Thai Mussels at Frank & Nic's West End Grille. Mussels steamed in a red Thai curry sauce with coconut milk. Served with toasted baguette for $10

* The individual cipolla pizza at Iggies. Red onion confit, ricotta, pancetta, mozzarella for $9.50

* Tamales de pollo at the Mari Luna Latin Grille, filled with shredded chicken. Served on banana leaves with guacamole and pico de gallo salsa for $9

* Grilled Mission figs wrapped in prosciutto for $10 at Salt.

* Shrimp, mango and other tropical fruit ceviche at Talara for $5 (during happy hour)

* Sauteed artichoke hearts, shrimp and capers in a tomato and parmesan cheese cream sauce at Tapas Teatro for $8.95

* Flatbreads at Woodberry Kitchen for $9 (toppings subject to change)

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:19 AM | | Comments (39)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

August 10, 2009

A new restaurant coming to the Visionary Art Museum

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For those of you readers who only visit Dining@Large because you want restaurant news, I have an excellent tidbit for you.

The owners of the Sputnik Cafe in Crownsville have applied for a liquor license to operate the restaurant in the American Visionary Art Museum. I haven't talked to them yet, but the PR person at AVAM tells me it's almost, but not quite, a done deal. ...

I love this quote from his e-mail:

We first met them as participants in our annual Kinetic Sculpture Race (participating this year as "Air Cosmonauts")! So we know them to be clever, adventurous and fun-loving. Our kind of people!

Ah, but can they cook? I don't know because I've never been to the Sputnik Cafe, but maybe someone who has can tell us more.

If all goes well, there will be an October or November opening.

(Photo of the former Joy America Cafe by Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:08 PM | | Comments (11)
        

So you think you got bad service?

I don't think people reading this blog have been complaining about service enough lately -- haha just kidding -- so to inspire you I'm going to point you to the entry Midnight Sun Sam just posted, the Service Horror Story to End All Service Horror Stories.

The amazing thing is that he keeps going back to the same restaurant. Check back later for his post on Restaurant Stockholm Syndrome.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:49 PM | | Comments (6)
        

How hot is it?

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It's so hot you could fry an egg in the interior of my car.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:22 PM | | Comments (23)
        

Not the Comment of the Week...

...but it should be. I just don't want to wait until Saturday to bring it to your attention:

is it just me or has the snark picked up considerably here lately? There are ways to let people know that you disagree with them without acting like an ass yourself. Get a grip here people, we're talking about food not health care.

Posted by: NEPA | August 9, 2009 10:32 PM

I'd really like to get back to where we were, which is disagreements that are fairly civilized and no personal attacks of other commenters. May I refer you again to Rule No. 3? ...

I left the comment about Lissa since someone has already defended her and it was so ridiculous. Everyone knows she's my favorite.

One thing I want to ask is that regulars please not post snarky comments under made-up names. When I check the IP address to see who it really is, it makes me sad. And when regulars are posting snarky comments, I think the drop-ins are more comfortable doing it.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:19 AM | | Comments (59)
        

The expired gift certificate

PX00183_9.JPGCrime Beat Pete stopped by my desk last week and asked me what I thought about an odd story his neighbor had told him.

She had a gift certificate to a downtown restaurant. The gift certificate had expired, so she called to see if the restaurant would honor it anyway. (Hey, worth a try.)

She was told, she told Peter, who told me, that she could come in and they would honor it if she bought another one for half its value. ...

I'm not going to mention the restaurant by name since the story is so third-hand, although if anyone from the restaurant wants to explain the rationale behind the policy we'd love to hear it.

I would think just saying, Yes, we'll honor it, would make sense from a PR standpoint. And it would get customers in your restaurant at a time when that's not easy to do.

But this story also gives me the opportunity to say yet again, if you have a gift certificate to a restaurant, use it now. Even if it doesn't expire, the restaurant may be gone by the time you decide to have dinner there.

If you're thinking of buying a restaurant gift certificate for someone, suggest they use it soon. A restaurant never closes these days that I don't get at least one e-mail saying, "What am I going to do with my gift certificate?"

(AP Photo/Peter Barreras)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:55 AM | | Comments (13)
        

August 9, 2009

Cheaper restaurants and Restaurant Week

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Last night my husband and I had a glass of sangria at the Tapas Teatro bar, and I got a chance to look at its Restaurant Week menu.

It convinced me that it might make sense to go to a less expensive place and try its prix fixe menu, even if you wouldn't usually pay more than $30 there.

In Tapas Teatro's case, it would be a chance to try a real dinner, where you would usually only get small plates. ...

The choice was of three appetizers, none of which would be overwhelming; steak, rockfish or paella for a main course; and flan or panna cotta for dessert. It sounded good to me.

I'm still hoping people will post mini-reviews of their Restaurant Week experiences here as a guide to others.  Especially if you have a hidden gem to recommend.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:55 PM | | Comments (43)
        

Next Sunday's review: 13.5 % Wine Bar

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Suzanne Loudermilk and I are going to have to stop meeting like this. This is the second time we've reviewed a new restaurant on the same night. (The first was at Taverna Corvino in Federal Hill.)

Last week at the 13.5 % Wine Bar in Hampden, Suzanne, the restaurant critic at Baltimore magazine and a friend from when she worked at the Sun, was sitting at a table next to ours.

It's hard to keep a straight face when we run into each other on the job. I keep thinking about the poor server who might have both our tables.

Maybe we should just pool resources and start reviewing together. We'd get to try more food, which could only be to the readers' advantage. ...

Anyway, I was able to answer one burning question when I got into a conversation with the bartender at 13.5 %: How do you pronounce the name?

He told us there was a lot of discussion about it, but the staff has settled into "13-Five" when they answer the phone.

Look for my review of the food at this so far very popular venture in next Sunday's Arts & Entertainment section.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:21 AM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Review Preview
        

August 8, 2009

Comment of the Week

I thought the following comment was remarkably level-headed and on topic: When can your baby start eating sushi? It seemed to start people talking about the subject in an interesting way instead of complaining that the post belonged on the mommy blog.

When do babies in Japan start eating sushi? Honestly (and I'm a mom), it used to be "safe" to give your baby whatever you felt like he could handle. I'll bet a bunch of you ate food before 6 months, peanut butter and strawberries before 1 year, cow's milk before 1 year, honey, and even verboten stuff like cereal mixed with formula from a bottle with a great big hole in the nipple. And you lived to tell about it. My kid did. And he ate sushi when he was about 2, and 6 years later he's still eating it.

Posted by: Skewed Tomato | August 5, 2009 10:50 AM

I also want to give a shout out to RayRay's comment on endangered seafood. The fact that no one went nuts (in a bad way) over it shows that even when we're discussing something pretty serious, there's always room for a little humor:

Eat stuff.


When it's gone, eat other stuff.

Posted by: RayRay | August 6, 2009 9:55 AM

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:47 PM | | Comments (9)
        

Can restaurants successfully reinvent themselves?

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One way some restaurants are trying to cope with a faltering economy is to reinvent themselves.

I suppose this isn't a new phenomenon, but I don't know if in the past it was done successfully or not. I can think of only one example of when it worked recently off the top of my head.

It's a slippery slope. Fine-dining restaurants start losing customers so they start offering deals and specials to attract customers and therefore have less of whatever it was (cachet?) that brought people in during the restaurants' heyday. (Hey, let's put some white paper on top of our white tablecloths and call ourselves a brasserie now.) ...

Sometimes even with the change, the name is the same and the reputation for being an expensive restaurant is firmly in place, and customers can't be convinced otherwise. The most recent example of that is the Bicycle, which renovated and totally revamped its menu to be more casual and less expensive.

It didn't help, and the Federal Hill restaurant unexpectedly closed its doors, presumably for good.

The only restaurant I can think of that seems to have made the transition successfully from fine dining to casual and fun but still good food is Corks. At least it seemed to be busy when I reviewed it shortly after it reopened. I don't know how it's doing now in the dog days of summer, but Restaurant Week can't hurt.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:42 PM | | Comments (20)
        

Market heaven

MarketMelons.jpgI got to the Waverly farmers market early today, but not as early as Zagat local editor Marty Katz, who had been up all night.

He and I have a fondness for one particular variety of one particular vegetable supplied by one particular vendor who's only at the Saturday city market, not the Sunday. So, of course, that was the table he was standing at when I walked up.

That item, which I'm not going to tell you about because we don't need any more competition, has been in short supply until now; but Marty and I have reached a civilized detente over it.  There have even been offers of sharing on his part when he beat me to it earlier in the summer. ...

No, it's not watermelons.

Anyway, he told me there's no regulation about when the vendors can start selling on Saturday mornings, they just have to quit at noon.

Maybe I'll start getting there at 6:30 a.m.

I haven't been for a couple of weeks since I've been away, and it's as if this whole late summer has suddenly burst out and produced every sort of gorgeous fruit and vegetable you could possibly want. It may be a short season this year, but it's a glorious one.

Go. Now.

(Photo by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:49 AM | | Comments (32)
        

August 7, 2009

Bucky reviews Julie & Julia

JulieJulia.jpgYou're probably wondering why I haven't reviewed Julie & Julia yet. Gailor and I going to the movies tomorrow, and it's going to be The Hurt Locker, not Julie & Julia.

What can I say? I've been wanting to see The Hurt Locker since I first heard about it. The previews were fabulous.

I don't know about the reviews because I don't read them until after I see a film. And don't tell me. Nyah. Nyah. Nyah. I can't hear you. Covering my ears.

Anyway, Bucky has bravely stepped into the breach and done my work for me with this concise review: ...

Day off today...
 
...so Kaikala made me go to Julie and Julia.  Or was it Julia and Julie?  Whatever.
 
My review:
•    Amy Adams is sexy, in a wholesome sort of way.
•    I didn't think Meryl Streep could be any more irritating.  Then she played Julia Child.  That voice, my god, that voice.
•    Nora Ephron is a damn good screenwriter.

(AP Photo/Columbia Pictures/Sony, Jonathan Wenk)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:44 PM | | Comments (81)
        

Great dishes under $10

13.5Panini.jpgGuest poster John Lindner has given me a gift: a complete Top 10 Tuesday, and a good one at that.

I'm trying hard to hold off using it until I go on my next vacation, but I may not make it. In fact, I may not get any farther than next Tuesday.

But Charm City Mom Kate has given me a good idea, which is almost (but not quite) as good as a complete list. She suggests a Top 10 of Best Restaurant Dishes Under $10. ...


I'm already bugging Other Reviewer Richard to suggest some items because the restaurants he reviews are more likely to have candidates. (Hey, the prime rib at the Prime Rib costs $41, and that's without a vegetable.) 

Anyway, if any of you has a suggestion, please post below. I was going to try to avoid small plates, but I don't think that will be possible.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:45 PM | | Comments (27)
        

Woodberry Kitchen one of Bon Appetit's 10 best

WoodberryHonored.jpgWouldn't you think if you were naming a Baltimore restaurant one of your Top 10 new restaurants you might want to tell the local newspaper? Or if you were that restaurant you might want to blow your own horn?

Not so. I just got an e-mail from Lynn (thanks, Lynn) pointing out that Woodberry Kitchen has been named one of Bon Appetit's Top 10 Best New Restaurants in America. Congratulations to Spike Gjerde, whose handsome farm-to-table restaurant has been a hit since it opened. He's modest as well as a good cook.

Here's what the magazine says: ...

In the early 1990s, long before sustainable, local, and organic became the calling cards of chefs everywhere, Spike Gjerde was showcasing the abundance of the Chesapeake Bay. With the opening of his latest spot in the historic Clipper Mill complex—a brick-and-wood space that has the look and feel of a restored farmhouse—Gjerde takes his farm-to-table commitment to the next level. A wood-burning oven is the centerpiece of a kitchen that turns out dishes like roasted Rappahannock River oysters, Roseda Black Angus Farm hanger steak, and fantastic flatbreads.

A recipe for Spiced Pear Flatbreads with Goat Cheese and Mustard Cream is also included.

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:55 AM | | Comments (10)
        

What Republicans eat

CheeseWine.jpg

 

Actually, today's fine guest post by Robert of Cross Keys is about what Republicans and Democrats eat, but that was a little long-winded for a headline. I couldn't talk him into a photo of himself and his wife in their partisan outfits to illustrate it, by the way. So instead of a photo of a wine-and-cheese-loving Republican, we have to make do with just the cheese (puffs) and wine. Here's RoCK. EL

This week I went down to the farmers market under the JFX.  As I walked around I was offered a socialist newspaper.  I said no thanks, I’m a Republican. 

The activist seemed a little surprised. Not so much at my terseness, but probably by the fact my appearance belied my ideology.  See, I had an eco-friendly canvas bag, a two-day shave, a pair of olive drab shorts and a t-shirt listing the top 10 insults from Shakespeare. (It is a great shirt for the venue on account of the No. 1 insult: “Sell when you can, you are not for all markets.”)  ...

 

Maybe if he looked at my shoes he would have known I was not a redistributionist.  I was wearing Sperry Top Siders, and when was the last time you saw a socialist in boat shoes?  I can’t blame him for not noticing, as Red in “The Shawshank Redemption” said, “I mean, seriously, how often do you really look at a man’s shoes?” 

When I got home I looked at my wife, who is quite the Democrat, liberal, progressive, communist, etc…  She was wearing a Lynyrd Skynyrd t-shirt.   Anyway, she was asked what we were going to do for dinner that night. 

We went round and round like the two partisans we are, promoting our own ideas and dismissing the others.  I was offering up various ethnic options, such as Indian, Vietnamese, and Middle Eastern.  She was suggesting steak with a bone, baked potatoes and lobster bisque. It dawned on me that not only our attire but also our dining preferences contradicted our voting cards.  
 
This observation occurred at roughly the same time I read a comment by Richard Cabeza on last week’s post.  He stated: “You should go back to stereotype school. You are an ass.” 

The former started a conversation among the regulars on Facebook about Republican vs. Democrat foods. (The latter is coincidentally the No. 10 insult on my Shakespeare t-shirt.)
 
So what are Republican and Democrat foods? 

At one time when the parties were split according to management and labor this would have been an easy question.  Republican foods were the luxury foods my wife likes.  Democrat foods were the ethnic foods that I like, as well as the working class foods of meat loaf and green bean casseroles that no one really likes although people from both sides of the aisle pretend to.
      
Now things are different. Professionals have shifted to the Democrats, and populists are moving into the Republican Party. The words of Brillat-Savarin: “Tell me what you eat I will tell you what you are” may no longer be true in the way we once knew them to be.

The make-ups of the parties have changed, and with that so have identifying labels of food. Sure there are some old standbys, such as Democrats eat tofurkey while Republicans eat Chilean sea bass, but the old order is dying.   
 
The new order is seen through wine, cheese and sloppy joes.  A generation ago Republicans were the ones drinking Chardonnay and eating Brie at the county club, while the Democrats were eating Manwich at the union hall. 

Nowadays the Democrats may not be at county clubs or the Republicans at union halls, but their foods have changed parties.  Today wine and cheese are consumed by Democrats at various events centered around colored ribbons you pin to yourself, while Republicans are downing sloppy joes at activities featuring magnetic ribbons you stick to your SUV.
 
Well, I could go on with my sweeping generalizations, but considering I never did graduate from stereotype school, I’m not sure I have the proper credentials to continue pontificating.  Everyone else, however, is encouraged to opine on what those people, Republicans and Democrats, eat.

(Photo by Nick Koon/Orange County Register/MCT)

Update: RoCK has sent me a better illustration for his post. It's by Robert Lachman / Los Angeles Times photographer) EL

Republicans.jpg

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:55 AM | | Comments (82)
        

Making multiple reservations for the same night

RocketToVenusChops.jpg

 

Today is the first day of Baltimore Summer Restaurant Week, and so it seems an appropriate time to talk about why not to make reservations at several different restaurants for the same time just because you can't make up your mind.

(I guess that's why people do it.) ...

 

I was amazed to see over at Chowhound.com -- sorry, I can't remember the exact thread -- posters admitting they do this without shame, as if they can't see how it hurts both restaurants and other customers who might not be able to get a table.

When one of them was called on it, maybe even by our Hal Laurent, he was outraged and said he canceled the reservations he didn't want to use at least two weeks in advance. But it still seems to me kind of pointless.

Maybe I'm being too harsh and there is a point. If so, I'd like to hear it.

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:03 AM | | Comments (19)
        

August 6, 2009

Richard reviews Noodles & Company

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It's been a busy day, but I don't want to go home without linking to Other Reviewer Richard's good review of Noodles & Company.

It raises that interesting issue of what to do when a chain is better than most of the comparable local places -- those local places that we all want to support.

(Gene Sweeney Jr./Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:33 PM | | Comments (10)
        

Best crab soup: And the winners are...

judgesCrabSoup.jpg

 

Don't miss the details of today's Crab Soup Stakes, posted over at Midnight Sun by one of the judges. That's Sam on the left.

Naturally none of the winners was on my Top 10 list.

(Photo courtesy of the Downtown Partnership) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:46 PM | | Comments (15)
        

Two more restaurant closings

DogwoodDinner.jpgI'm not saying these are both permanent. But it's not good news in any case.

Zagat local editor Marty Katz told me about a sign on the door of Dogwood in Hampden saying it would be closed for the month of August. It was vague about the reopening date.

The phone message when I called was even more disturbing: "We hope to reopen the week after Labor Day. Thank you for all your support. Sorry for any inconvenience....Peace."

I e-mailed the owners and got this back from Bridget Sampson: ...

Given the quietness of the month of August, we have decided to take the remainder of the month to reorganize the business into a leaner and stronger one and will be in touch about a re-opening date; we are hoping for September. Plates [its nonprofit culinary training program, cafe and catering] will continue to operate at the Woman's Industrial Exchange with increased selections in September.

I'm really unhappy about this. Owner Galen Sampson is a wonderful cook, and Dogwood was a lovely, socially conscious restaurant.

Then LGood e-mailed me just now with the news that oZ. Chophouse in Maple Lawn will be closing Saturday. Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City is taking it over. I confirmed the ownership change and have a message in asking Jordan Naftal to give me a call with more details, but I haven't heard back from him yet.

When I called oZ., I said to the person who answered the phone, "I heard you'll be closing this Saturday."

She said, "We're going till our food runs out, and that puts us at Saturday."

Oh.

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:58 PM | | Comments (30)
        

Shark Week and shark eaters

I confess I'm not a Shark Week fan. I never understood the appeal of Jaws, which my husband and daughter watch every time it's on TV.

There are only two things I like about sharks: 1) The ad campaign for the sequel to Jaws ("Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water...") and 2) the classic Saturday Night Live skit where you hear the voice behind the door say, "Pizza-man" and it turns out to be Landshark. I love that. In fact, my family reenacts the skit periodically, usually when we've ordered pizza.

Unfortunately I couldn't find the video where Landshark uses the pizza-man ploy, but the one above will give you the sense of it if you haven't seen the skit. ...

Anyway, if you want more food in this post, you can always make this Food Network recipe for Mako Shark with Grilled Pineapple Salsa.

But I should add that shark has been seriously overfished, according to Seafood Watch, which recommends you substitute farmed sturgeon or Pacific halibut for mako.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:18 AM | | Comments (45)
        

Mixing your vegetables

veg%20head1%20cr.jpg

 

In today's excellent Owl Meat Thursday, our guest poster intuitively understands something about fine cuisine, thereby giving his post an actual news peg. (The movie Julie & Julia opens tomorrow.) When Julia Child makes boeuf bourguignon, Owlie, she cooks the vegetables separately, then puts them with the meat at the very end to retain the separate flavors. Here's the Owl Man. EL

I was watching an episode of the show Monk. Adrian Monk is a brilliant detective with severe OCD.  During dinner with a friend he separated his vegetable "medley" into different piles on his plate. His friend said, "No, you're supposed to eat them together."
 
Why? ...

mixed%20veg%20kc%20500fx.jpgMonk made a lot of sense. Why eat carrots, broccoli and snow peas together? They don't complement each other. I like them separately, but they belong together like chocolate, bacon and jumbo lump crab meat belong together. Actually ... [ drifts off into a choco-bacon-crab fantasy ... ]
 
The random Birdseye mash-ups are part of some conspiracy, but I'm not sure which. They remind me of my mother's kitchen sink salads. I get that it may be more nutritious to eat a variety of vegetables, but why mix them together on the same plate on the same day with no regard to flavors?

That brings me to an actual vegetable hate crime – succotash. Succotash? How about yuckotash?  Why would you do that to innocent corn? Hey, you know what this delicious corn needs? A bloated pale green bean that tastes like tub grout.  
 
Some vegetable combinations have synergy and I salute them. Cucumber, onion, and tomatoes. Splendid.
 
Friends say they like the several vegetables from a pot roast. Duh, vegetables that taste like meat.
 
I know that some people, especially children, don't like their food to touch on the plate. I don't remember having that quirk, but I do recall making elaborate constructions of mashed potatoes and gravy that rivaled the Aswan Dam ... and then destroying them Godzilla-style.
 
Finally, an admission. I eat my food one ingredient at a time, which is why I think Adrian Monk's style is, well, stylin'. Another confession: I cut up my meat entirely before I eat one bite. That's Pennsylvania style. Deal with it.

(Photo credit: Getty Images)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:33 AM | | Comments (50)
        

Eating endangered seafood in restaurants

DiamondTavernSeaBass.jpgWe had a lively discussion yesterday about ordering Chilean sea bass in restaurants. That may not sound very exciting, but the comments did get heated.

The issue, of course, is sustainable seafood and endangered (or not) species.

If you're serious about avoiding questionable fish and shellfish -- questionable in the sense of overfished or otherwise endangered -- you might want to get the updated Seafood Watch Pocket Guide. Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch is one of the most respected sustainable seafood advisory programs. ...

Have you been avoiding swordfish since the some-think-ill-advised "Give swordfish a break" PR campaign a few years ago? Then you need this guide. Or you can search the Seafood Watch Web site for information on your favorite fish.

For instance, if you look up "salmon," you'll find wild-caught salmon is rated "best choice," while farm-raised is labeled "avoid."

It has nothing to do with taste. "Pollution, chemicals, parasites and non-native farmed fish that escape from salmon farms can impact native salmon populations in the surrounding areas," the Web site explains.

Crab? The best choices are Dungeness, stone and Kona, while our blue crab is considered a "good alternative." The only "avoid" is king crab.

As for Chilean sea bass, the fish that started the discussion, its status has changed somewhat. Here's what the Web site says:

"In March 2004, Chilean seabass from the South Georgia Patagonian Toothfish Longline Fishery was certified as sustainable to the standard of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). However, the amount of certified product available is only a small portion of the total Chilean seabass catch. Legitimate sources are required to have the MSC "Chain of Custody" certification and purveyors should be able to produce this when asked. Without proof of this certification, consumers should not purchase Chilean seabass."

And swordfish? Seafood Watch is fine with it as long as it's domestic. (Canadian is also OK.)

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:25 AM | | Comments (44)
        

August 5, 2009

Richard's take on Restaurant Week

TabrizisStuffedArtichoke.jpgIn an earlier post, I was wondering how Baltimore Summer Restaurant Week would be different this year because of the recession. Today Other Reviewer Richard had an excellent story in the Taste section that answered that very question.

I like some of the different ways the event is being approached this year, and Richard lays them out for you.

By the way, I got a traffic advisory just now from Downtown Partnership, which sponsors Restaurant Week. They must be really delighted that the city is closing Charles Street between Centre and Read streets beginning Friday. It should reopen by Monday morning. ...

A detour will be posted, and Restaurant Week participants should plan on leaving a little extra time. If you're eating at a restaurant in that area, you may want to park at either the Franklin Street or Belvedere garage.

I didn't have a Table Talk column in the paper today because I was out of town at the wedding, but my Top 10 Blog Topics That Will Not Die that was on the blog Tuesday a week ago was in the Taste section, with a few comments edited down for space reasons.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:42 PM | | Comments (21)
        

Cooks, bartenders and a heartfelt ovation

OK, the last paragraph of this Shallow Thought Wednesday by guest poster John Lindner made me laugh out loud at my desk, and that doesn't happen very often, especially not my second day back from vacation. Here's John. EL

“More than two out of five adults in the United States have worked in the restaurant industry at some time during their lives.”
 
I’m one of them. What I learned from that era: Chefs and cooks skew dorky while bartenders are almost always cool. Why is that?
 
Full Disclosure: At the height of my professional cooking career, I was a steak house “cook” … and a moderate to heavy dork. At the pinnacle of my bartending days -- an upscale restaurant, name since forgotten -- I could chill a martini merely by looking at it. A very popular trick.
 
(Rare note on video: I swear I didn't know John Wayne had a brother.)
 
Ovation: I’d like to send a big thank-you out to all those servers who know that the condiments should be on the table before or as the meal reaches the table and not after the fries have cooled. I love you all. Please tell me one thing: Where the hell do you work?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:57 PM | | Comments (38)
        

Big restaurant news in Hampden

I'm just catching up on my other food blog reading, and Suzanne Loudermilk over at In Good Taste had quite a scoop a few days ago. Check out the link if you haven't seen her news about a restaurant move and a new Cuban restaurant in Hampden.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:05 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Watch the original French Chef before seeing the movie

Julia_pear.jpg

 

With the opening of Julie & Julia this Friday, we ought to prepare ourselves by watching the real thing. I wasn't a regular viewer when Julia Child's half-hour cooking shows first aired on PBS, but her cookbooks were my bible for many years.

Now PBS has posted full-length episodes of The French Chef with Julia Child online. You don't want to go to the movie without reminding yourself how fabulous the original was.

On the site, viewers can also share their Julia stories and get tips, recipes and tricks of the trade. 

(photo courtesy of Paul Child and WGBH)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:44 AM | | Comments (30)
        

Vote for Baltimore's best restaurants

PrimeRibCrabCake.jpgThe City Paper's Best of Baltimore readers poll is now online. This is your opportunity to vote for your favorite restaurant in a number of different categories. There are 17 different kinds of restaurants to fill in, from Best New Restaurant to Best Thai.

Dining isn't the only Best subject, obviously. The others include News & Media, Goods and Services, and Baltimore Living.

You have to vote for at least 25 different categories for your ballot to count. You can use the same answer only three times. The deadline for voting is Sept. 1. ...

It would be nice if people really knowledgeable about the city's restaurants would take the time to vote. Unfortunately, I can't participate because you have to give your name, and it seems to me there must be some sort of ethics involved there -- not in voting for my own blog, but in voting for best restaurants. 

Of course I would also be pleased and honored if you would vote for Dining@Large as Best Local Blog. But if you can't bring yourself to do that, I hope you'll vote for Midnight Sun because Sam is the greatest. He gave us the link to the Skinny Girls Big Sandwich blog, didn't he?

(Brendan Cavanaugh/Special to the Sun)
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:04 AM | | Comments (10)
        

When can your baby start eating sushi?

BabyLila.jpgThe PR person for RA Sushi suggested a post on when it's OK for babies to eat sushi. Actually she first suggested it to Charm City Mom Kate, but I stole it from her.

This “post” or article would definitely require some research, but If you’re interested I have some sources at RA who would be happy to comment on the subject, and maybe some physicians at Saint Agnes Hospital who could comment.

The last thing we need here is expert opinion. Much better for readers to tell us their real-life experiences of feeding raw fish to their babies. ...

Haha. Just kidding.

I presume all you moms out there know raw and undercooked meat isn't safe for your baby, so raw fish is probably less safe. Don't give them raw oysters either. (Although the picture that brings to mind of plopping a raw oyster down on the high chair tray where you usually put Cheerios and watching Baby deal with it is pretty funny.)

Use a little common sense here, folks.

And why go to pediatricians and nutritionists for the answer when you can Google it?

Actually, the Web page I just linked to seems pretty sensible, although I would be wary of feeding even my five-year-old raw fish. I'd just stick to vegetarian sushi and maybe a California roll (which contains cooked seafood) until -- oh, I don't know -- the kid is in college.

(Photo of Baby Lila courtesy of Bridget Forney)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:13 AM | | Comments (45)
        

August 4, 2009

Insane sandwiches

Rubix.jpgJust to lighten up what has been the usual drudge-day-after-vacation day, Reality Check Sarah sent me a link to the Insanewiches blog.

Now you know the Rubix Cubewich is the cutest.

Then Midnight Sun Sam, in a completely unrelated action, sent me a link to the Skinny Girls Big Sandwiches blog, which publishes pictures of girls and women, skinny and otherwise, eating really big sandwiches. Not as cute, but infinitely grosser.

And to think I had something as mundane as chicken salad on whole grain bread for lunch today.

(Photo courtesy of Insanewiches.com)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:00 PM | | Comments (20)
        

Answering your questions on the Prime Rib

PrimeRibBar.jpgYesterday I was on the plane back from the West Coast for what seemed like all day, and I never signed on to the computer when I got home at last.

This morning I found a lot of good and interesting conversation-starter comments under Monday Morning Quarterbacking that I would usually have responded to.

I decided to make them a separate entry because I know a lot of people don't read the comments. They think the comments are weird or stupid or don't stay on topic enough. Maybe this will convince them otherwise. ...

EL, I was puzzled by the 3-1/2 stars for service, since you didn't mention any problems with the service in your review. (I had no problem figuring out why the atmosphere got 2-1/2 stars.)

Posted by: hmpstd | August 3, 2009 10:46 AM

A very good question. Unfortunately, I have a limited amount of space in the print edition. Often service issues are long-winded to explain, repetitious from week to week, and boring to write about, so I use the shorthand of the stars instead of describing what happened unless I have a specific anecdote to point to.

In this case, for reasons I don't feel like going into, I went to the Prime Rib twice. The first time we had a waiter so good I was planning to give the Prime Rib 4 stars for service. But the place was almost empty. The second time a different waiter was just as nice and was good, but we didn't have his attention as much as we would have liked for what we were spending. Maybe someone hadn't shown up that evening,  maybe it's just that the service isn't quite as good when the restaurant is busier. (It still wasn't a full house by any means.) Anyway, if that had been the only night I had eaten there, I would have given the service 3 stars. So 3 1/2 stars was my compromise.

I was just glancing through the comments on ZonTV regarding Lou Dobbs and Obama's birthplace and two things occurred to me: 1. Wow, those people are mean! 2. Is Foie Gras our Obama birthplace issue?

Posted by: matt hudock | August 3, 2009 11:06 AM

I liked this comment because it gives me a chance to say I'm lucky to have a lot of local readers who comment regularly and realize being snarky isn't as much fun as getting into a discussion, even if it gets heated. I feel like I know a lot of you after a couple of years; and even when you disagree with me, you usually do it in a non-mean way because you think of me as a person, not a talking head. I appreciate that. David has a much larger national audience than I do, with drop-ins who comment on the issues they are interested in and have no stake in the blog.

Nice review, although I find the idea of a "martini list" being traditional a bit discongruent.

Posted by: Hal Laurent | August 3, 2009 12:08 PM

Hal, you are absolutely right, and I have no excuse. I misspoke. Obviously there's no need for a traditional martini list. It would have only one item on it, a gin martini made with a little vermouth and of course no ice. I should have said "drinks list," although I don't even think there would have been a need for that. I should have rewritten the whole sentence.

I wondered about the service rating. If "top-notch" is 3 and 1/2 what is four? Oops, I forgot, no commenting on stars.

Posted by: Elite Elephant Lover | August 3, 2009 12:36 PM

To answer the first part of your comment, this wasn't as bad as when I said the service "couldn't be better" at the Oregon Ridge and then gave it 3 1/2 stars. But you're right, I was speaking in generalities, but assigning stars to these two visits.

As for the second part, I think that's a self-imposed moratorium on commenting on stars. This is the conversation I think you're referring to, posted by you on March 30 and answered by me. Admittedly I get bored with going over the same ground again and again, but if you don't, go for it:

"As usual I am confused by the review. Appetizers were excellent. Fish was perfect. Steaks were good. You "really liked" the pork shank. You didn't like the sauce on the Delmonico but that doesn't make it bad. Your score? Two stars. As low as I have seen you score a restaurant. Compare to last weeks review. A seafood restaurant where all the fish was overcooked. Not some. All. Your score? Two stars. Just doesn't seem consistent.

"You think of two stars as bad. I think of it as fair or uneven, as the key says. I also factor in cost, and whether a problem might be simply because of some factor inherent to the restaurant or not (quality of ingredient vs. oversalting, for instance). Stars are a gross measure of something I've taken 800 words or so to say as accurately as I can. I don't know what the next week will hold, so I can't measure one "grade" against another the way you can in hindsight. I've said all this so many times before I'm not sure why you're still confused. But if you are, why do you even bother looking at the stars since in your mind I'm never going to give you accurate information in them? All I'm really saying with both these 'grades' is that the food is fair or uneven relative to cost. It's all I can say with stars. EL

Posted by: Elite Elephant Lover | March 30, 2009 12:49 PM"

How do aging restaurants keep people coming, they get 4 star reviews.. is the prime rib really the only 4 star restaurant in town?

Posted by: hmmm | August 3, 2009 12:47 PM

No, I don't think so. I've given 4 stars to restaurants before, although I'm not going to mention them here because it's been awhile and I don't know if those ratings still hold true.

Does the Prime Rib still routinely direct timely arrivals to the bar even when tables are open?

Posted by: chowsearch | August 3, 2009 1:03 PM

When we arrived, the maitre d' asked if we would like to have a drink at the bar first before being shown to our table. I didn't mind this at all because it seemed to me a sign of another era -- making an evening of it, something many of the Prime Rib's regulars must like doing. (I'm not much of a drinker, so it didn't appeal to me.) Even if you don't have a drink at the bar, the waiter asks if you'd like to have a drink before you look at the menu. That, too, doesn't bother me in a place like this.

Two comments about the review.

1. When you reviewed Sullivan's you made a specific reference to the lack of USDA Prime beef to justify the $30+ cost. No mention of the same thing at The Prime Rib.

2. I am surprised that you are eating and encouraging readers to eat Chilean Sea Bass. I carry a list from the Monterey Bay Aquarium with me when I am eating or buying seafood so I can avoid contributing to the destruction of our oceans.

Posted by: Elite Elephant Lover | August 3, 2009 1:10 PM

I think by your first question, you're suggesting that the Baltimore Prime Rib doesn't serve USDA prime beef. It hadn't occurred to me that they didn't, so I called just now and asked. Yes, the Baltimore Prime Rib serves prime beef.

As for No. 2, why did you assume I ordered the Chilean sea bass? I didn't. But I get your point. I'm unsure how much I should impose my personal beliefs on my reviews. For instance, I personally feel that everyone should eat small amounts of meat and other proteins and large amounts of vegetables. You could consider Americans endangered species because they don't. Well, you're not going to get either of those in any steak house, but should I mention my feelings in every review? It's a little different from mentioning my personal belief that when you order a steak rare it shouldn't arrive well done.

EL has already said she doesn't want to hear what farms her food comes from, so why does it surprise you that she would eat chilean sea bass? ...

Posted by: yeesh | August 3, 2009 2:41 PM

I'm not sure about the logic here. Actually, I'm only guessing what you refer to in the first part of your question because I couldn't find a specific entry. If you can, please post below. It may be when I've commented on the endless descriptions of the provenance of each ingredient on a menu as being a case of TMI and not particularly appetizing. If a restaurant states on its menu that it tries to get local, seasonal, organic, free-range and hormone-free ingredients whenever possible, that's good enough for me.

Just because I don't need to know the actual name of the farm, which always seem a little -- I don't know -- braggy, doesn't mean I don't appreciate the restaurant's efforts to provide good, healthful food.

In any case, I'm not sure what that has to with endangered species.

(Brendan Cavanaugh/special to the Baltimore Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:02 PM | | Comments (26)
        

Top 10 Places to Get Cream of Crab Soup

CrabSoupStakes.jpgIt seems appropriate to do the Top 10 Places to Get Cream of Crab Soup this week because on Thursday, as part of Baltimore's Summer Restaurant Week, the Crab Soup Stakes -- a crab soup cook-off -- will be held at the Harborplace Amphitheater from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Free samples of both Maryland crab and cream of crab will be handed out by the restaurants involved.

If any of you decides to attend this exciting event, let us know how the winner stacks up to the following list. ...

I made it up with a little help from my friends, so if this is your first time here, please read the Official Disclaimer. Unfortunately, some of the suggestions didn't pan out when I called the restaurants. Linwoods, for instance, doesn't have cream of crab soup on its menu anymore.

By the way, traditional cream of crab soup can be found under a variety of names these days -- from crab chowder to crab bisque.

Here's the list in alphabetical order:

* Carrol's Creek in Annapolis. Rich and lump-filled but not too thick

* Catonsville Gourmet in Catonsville. Cream of crab and corn chowder

* Gertrude's in the BMA. With lump crab and "scented with sherry"

* Grille 700 in the Marriott Waterfront. Award-winning blue crab and roasted corn chowder

* Jimmie & Sook's in Cambridge. Won the Taste of Cambridge crab soup contest last month

* Legal Spirits in Easton. Probably the most famous cream of crab on the Eastern Shore

* Mama's on the Half Shell in Canton. Served with a petite soft crab on top

* Pairings Bistro in Bel Air. Served with aged dry sherry on the side

* Ports of Call in Annapolis. The award winner at the Maryland Seafood Festival for cream of crab

* Regi's American Bistro in Federal Hill. Understated but delicious

(Kim Hairston/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:00 AM | | Comments (61)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

August 3, 2009

Where are the cheese shops?

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Misha the Veggie Lover sent me an e-mail recently posing this question, which I couldn't answer:

I searched through the blog for cheese. Specifically I am looking for cheese shops. Not Whole Foods or Wegmans, but cheese shops. I know of many that have closed in the area. I was wondering if you have either done a post in the past or could recommend any cheese shops in the Baltimore area? I have read through your post from almost a year ago on cheese plates as there was mention of a few good stores.

We used to have cheese shops -- there was once one in Cross Keys -- but I don't know of any now. I'm hoping some readers have suggestions. ...

If so, I'm guessing they will be in the burbs. I think I would know of any in the city.

I took the photo in Carmel. If a town the size of Carmel can support a cheese shop, I feel Baltimore ought to be able to. Or maybe the fact that gourmet supermarkets now have such good selections has made it impossible for a small, independent cheese shop to survive.

(Photo by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:19 PM | | Comments (58)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Prime Rib

PrimeRibMM.jpgYesterday I reviewed the Prime Rib. My return was sparked by a comment someone made here when I wrote about it and mentioned I hadn't been back in almost a decade.

One of the Prime Rib's strengths is that over the years it's maintained a consistently high quality and hasn't changed enough to justify go back as often as I might want to. That makes it hard to explain to the higher ups why I'm spending as much as you have to there -- and then saying the same things I said in my last review. But when I realized it had been more than nine years, I jumped at the chance to go back. ...

Of course, that's usually when you're disappointed; but I wasn't. In fact, the food was even better than I expected.

Most of us can't afford to go to the Prime Rib on our own dime these days except for a very special occasion, so I notice there are a few specials to lure more people in. I didn't have room to mention them in the review.

There's a menu of dishes for under $20 on Thursday nights, but you have to ask for it. Sunday nights a list of wines for half price is available. If you combine that with sharing the prime rib (which is more than enough for two), you can bring the cost down out of the stratosphere, although you'll have to pay a sharing charge of $12.50. Not saying it's a steal exactly, just saying it's a less expensive way of experiencing the beef.

I haven't had the energy to look at my e-mail yet. (I'm not back at work until tomorrow.) I'm sure there are an equal number of e-mails outraged that I didn't give the atmosphere 4 stars and that I gave a beef palace's food 4.

(Photo by Brendan Cavanaugh/P3 Imaging Inc.)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:05 AM | | Comments (43)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Advice needed on ordering a glass of wine

PureWine.JPGAsking for advice on ordering a glass of wine may sound like an odd request. Either you like chardonnay or you don't. If you do, you'll probably recognize one on the wine list or you'll order one that's in your price range. Or you'll ask the server (or the sommelier if you happen to be at that sort of restaurant) to recommend one.

This is a different sort of advice I'm asking for. I'm hoping an owner or someone who works behind a bar in a restaurant will give it to us.

Are there safer and less safe kinds of wine to order by the glass? ...

At many restaurants, for instance, I would hesitate to order the most expensive glasses of wine on the list. It seems to me they are the ones that get opened and then sit around for days until the next person (me) orders them. Are there certain reds and whites that get ordered so frequently you can practically count on getting a glass from a bottle that's been opened that same day?

Are there certain wines by the glass that are overpriced for some reason (such as the second least expensive because people who don't know wines are usually going to order it)? Are there certain wines that are usually a bargain?

What should be avoided in places that aren't wine-centric? What should be ordered in places that are?

In a way, this is part two of an earlier post on the dangers of ordering wine by the glass.

(Photo by Mike Buscher/special to the Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:12 AM | | Comments (16)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

August 2, 2009

Next Sunday's review

Well, unfortunately there isn't one. What with taking only a quick hop out west for the wedding and back again tomorrow, I could normally have fit an extra review in. Unfortunately my husband caught a virus and I wasn't feeling so great myself last week.

One thing I never do to a restaurant is review it when I'm under the weather. That's why I work so far ahead. But this time I only managed to fit in the review that appeared today, which we can talk about in tomorrow's Monday Morning Quarterbacking.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:55 PM | | Comments (11)
        

The wedding food

TheWedding%20001.jpg

 

I'm being very careful not to move my head too quickly this morning. I'm not sure whether it's a hangover or lack of sleep, but I think it's the latter.

True, since margaritas and beer were being served at the wedding reception, I had a margarita, just to wash down the delicious little fried avocado cakes the size of a quarter topped with sour cream and salsa, and the chipotle shrimp with mango salsa. But I only had one. ...

TheWedding%20005.jpgAnd then at the dinner afterward it would have been rude not to let the server pour me a glass of sauvignon blanc to go with the amuse bouche and the fabulous first course of ceviche (shrimp, scallops and local sea bass) with jalapeno, cilantro, tomato and avocado spilling over crisp tostados and baby greens. But I  just had a sip.

And the even better pinot noir that was poured with the main course I mostly just inhaled the fragrance of. I knew if I started drinking it, I would regret it today. Even though it was a great choice with the grilled flat iron steak pablano, served the rare side of pink, with potatoes au gratin, baby vegetables and roasted chile sauce.

(Amanda was originally from Texas. Now that was what I call Tex-Mex food.)

Amanda was an unbelievably beautiful bride, but I don't feel comfortable posting a photo of her without asking her first, and I never got around to it last night. The problem now is that her wedding and the wedding we went to at Christmas in Argentina have set such impossibly high standards that Gailor is going to be on her own when she decides to get married.

Maybe she'll elope.

(Photos of the redwood grove before the ceremony [those are white rose petals down the center aisle] and at the dinner afterward by me.)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:31 PM | | Comments (24)
        

Aging restaurants

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Last week my neighbor and haircutter extraordinaire Tom M. were talking about restaurants. I always like hearing what he has to say because he owned a Fells Point bar in the '70s before he became Baltimore's best colorist. (Yes, of course this is my natural color.)

He still has lots of friends in the restaurant business so he knows stuff, like the fact that the owner of Zorba's in Greektown goes to New York on Thursday to get fresh fish.

Anyway, we ended up discussing how some of the area's best-known restaurants, which have excellent food, are no longer attracting younger people, even ones who have money. ...

They may go with their parents and enjoy their meal because the food is very good; but when they are on their own, they don't want to eat where their parents do.

This is a relatively new phenomenon, isn't it? It must be or restaurants wouldn't have survived as long as they have. The way things are going now, some restaurants will be dying out when their current generation of customers does.

But how does a restaurant make itself appealing to a younger crowd without changing the very things that have made it so popular in the past -- and without alienating its current customers? If I knew that, I could make a fortune as a restaurant consultant.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:55 AM | | Comments (26)
        

August 1, 2009

The Comment of the Week

I was vaguely uneasy about the direction the conversation was taking under the Anthony Bourdain post. I always get a little uncomfortable when regulars get into discussions that are almost arguments, and I could see how this one could get ugly. Especially as I was absolutely convinced of the basic good spirit of everyone involved.

Then this got posted, and everyone seemed to come to their senses: ...

Even a cranky old white formerly-suburban PTA Lady can tell the difference between Urban Poor and Skanky Ho. True, nice people do not say skanky ho, but pretty much everyone knows one when they see it.

Posted by: Eve | July 28, 2009 4:35 PM

I also have to give honorable mention to Lissa's comment after I had cleaned up the coding of a post and I missed a</br>, which for some reason made the whole rail on the right hand of the page disappear. Usually I'm more on top of such things, but not when I'm on vacation. And you can imagine how pleased my bosses would be that I made all the ads disappear. Her post simply said:

Has the sidebar gone on vacation, too?

I got to laughing so hard I could hardly fix it.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:01 PM | | Comments (15)
        

The blog topic that will not die

You know how sometimes you realize you've made a horrible mistake and it's too late to correct it and, no, it's not a nightmare you'll wake up from?

I was having a BLT for lunch just now, and it occurred to me that I didn't mention the Absolute No. 1 Blog Top That Will Not Die in my Top 10 list last Tuesday:

Bacon.

Every discussion on whatever topic eventually gets back to bacon.

Not only that, none of the 50 comments under the post mentioned it either. How weird is that?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:31 PM | | Comments (51)
        

Lunch and a "day" of sports

SportsLunch%20001.jpgI would like to take that back, what I said about San Francisco being cold. It wasn't cold. Carmel-by-the-Sea is cold: Damp, gray and drizzly. It's like a teeny little Disneyland for adults, so gentrified there are no fast food places, no Rite-Aid, not even a Starbucks. But every block is crowded with "inns," restaurants, expensive shops, galleries and day spas.

We had red snapper with mango salsa at a clever little (seats 22) restaurant called Basil -- painted green, of course -- last night, but that wasn't the notable meal of the day. ...

Lunch was.

We were invited by the groom's family to a Day of Sports (actually from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and lunch. Strangely, only 15 miles or so inland, the marine layer disappears and it's hot, sunny and beautiful.

Some of the guests dallied with tennis, croquet or ping pong or they swam, while country music and reggae played in the background.

Then everyone sat around enjoying a lunch of pulled pork sandwiches, make-your-own fish tacos with all the fixings (including avocado slaw), beautiful platters of fresh fruit, and Veuve Clicquot -- in plastic  cups.

Well, that was a first. I loved it.

Later this afternoon: The wedding in a redwood grove.

(Photo by me)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:12 PM | | Comments (13)
        

Second-string chefs

SonnySweetman.JPG

 

Now that I've written over 2,800 blog entries, you would think there are no new topics. But every time I think that, someone proves me wrong.

Federal Hill Jim recently sent me an e-mail raising an interesting question I wish I'd thought of before. It's certainly something I've wondered about. Here's what he said: ...

Comments by Gorelick and one of your posters about Harbor Que -- together with my own experiences there -- raise an interesting but perhaps unanswerable question. We all noted a quality difference on multiple visits. That is not a unique experience.

I remember decades ago, when Szechwan was one of the best Chinese restaurants in town, having a terrible meal there on a Sunday evening. And last year when we went to Antrim for a long weekend to celebrate Chris' 60th birthday we were disappointed in the food because, we discovered belatedly, Michael Gettier was on vacation.

I realize at some restaurants the named chef is not the principal cook...and at others a talented sous chef can maintain the boss' standards (the old Abacrombie). But how often are people let down by dining unaware that the second team is at the stove? Might be worth an interesting discussion while you're next on vacation.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)
 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:53 AM | | Comments (8)
        
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Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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