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June 18, 2009

The Parkway Restaurant in Bethany



The comments under the earlier post today from Bethany Beach people were great.

For one thing, they jogged my memory about the Parkway Restaurant, which for some reason I didn't include in the 2006 story I quoted earlier. Could it have been closed when I was there last?

Once I heard the name, I remembered that Gailor and I had gone down and stayed for a couple of days on the Sun in 2000.

She was in college and writing freelance for the paper that summer, and I was doing a story on a family that had a reunion each year in Bethany.

We had a blast, and one of the highlights was dinner at the Parkway. In fact, I came back and wrote this item for my Table Talk column: ...

Best on the beach?

If you think of beach food as steamed crabs and pizza, you've never been to Bethany's Parkway Restaurant, right in the heart of the Delaware beach town at 114 Garfield Parkway. Prices are steep, with entrees running from $17 for a terrine of vegetables to $34 for broiled lobster tail with saffron cream sauce, but hey -- this is your vacation. Even if you just order from the light-fare menu (Caesar salad with grilled duck breast, $11, or insalata caprese, $9) you'll still get the fabulous Portuguese bishop's rolls. (They do look something like a miter.) The kitchen bakes these crusty-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside wonders to order.

Funny what I thought were steep prices in those days, and -- no surprise -- they are significantly higher now. But if the food is as good as I remember, it's worth the cost.

Needless to say, the photo has nothing to do with the Parkway Restaurant except that it was taken at Bethany Beach.

(AP Photo/The Carroll County Times, Chris Ammann)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:36 AM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Beach Eats


Love the photo! (Bethany, not so much ...)

I love the photo and Bethany!

OC too cramped commercial and crowded. It's not the clapboard boarding house nothing above 50th street OC of my youth.

Thomas Wolfe was right. You can't go home again.

Joyce W., Rehoboth is the only beach for my family.

Sorry, Dahlink - I went to reply to this and couldn't find it again!

I think Rehoboth is much the same as it's been for many years. Is that impression true?

OC, MD, not so much. So, on to quieter and less crowded Bethany, I say!

Joyce W., yes and no. We have been going to Rehoboth for more than 30 years, and in that time it has become much more trendy and chic. This is good when it comes to choosing a restaurant. But it is not over-developed in the way some say OC is. A few years ago the city council passed legislation to limit the size of new residences (including teardowns), in order to maintain the small town feel. Good move, IMHO. We always try to stay some place where we can park the car and just walk everywhere. We hit the outlets on a rainy day, but otherwise try to stay far from the madding crowds on the highway.

Dahlink, I know what you mean about the trendy chic part. I think all the beaches from MD to DE are going through much the same thing.

I agree with your HO. Too bad OC MD didn't do something similar. Just 30 years ago or less there were still clapboard hotels and nothing over 3 stories on the lower boardwalk. Now it's as if anything goes as long as there's someone to pay for it.

Joyce--exactly right.

There is a lot outside of Rehoboth where, if you park there, they give you a day pass on the local bus for free.

Looked like a pretty good deal. If I ever go back (and have a car), I'll probably take them up on it. I hate parking.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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