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June 21, 2009

Olive oil: hot new flavor trend

PX00064_9.JPGPart of my Sunday morning ritual is to go through the coupons in the paper to try to cut out enough of them for things that I would buy anyway so that I actually make up the cost of Sun for a week. (I do get an employee discount.)

Of course, I then forget to use them when I go to the store.

Anyway, today I came upon one for Kraft Mayo with Olive Oil. Call me old-fashioned, but I don't think mayonnaise should be made with olive oil. And I'm someone who loves olive oil. I just don't think a store-bought mayonnaise should be tarted up. ...

As I kept flipping through the coupons I came upon one that bothered me even more, Land O' Lakes Butter with Olive Oil. Ugh. Like that makes it healthier. It sure isn't going to make it taste better.

So now I need one more example of an improper addition of olive oil to something just so the manufacturer can claim a health benefit, or why ever they're doing it, and we'll have a hot new flavor trend.

Photo caption: BALTIMORE, MD -- 08/26/2008 -- Globs of oil float beneath a dock as workers help to recover olive oil within the containment area at the harbor Tuesday, Aug. 26, 2008. The cleanup continues following a spill that flowed from the Pompeiian Oil plant caused by vandalism, allowing 5,800 gallons to seep into the drainage that flows into the harbor. Several days of cleanup may be required, an MDE official said. (Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:09 AM | | Comments (26)
        

Comments

Vandalism, right....

This isn't looking good;

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With what oil should mayo be made?

Well, when I make mayonnaise, I make it with whatever would taste good with what I'm making it for. But if I'm buying mayonnaise, I don't like the idea of its being preflavored. Of course, who knows if they use enough to even taste it? EL

According to "Joy of Cooking" a traditional mayonaise is made with egg yolks, lemon juice or white wine vinegar and oil, with salt and pepper added to taste. The type of oil to be used will determine the predominanrt flavor of the mayonaise. A robust olive oil will favor rich meats and aromatic vegetables. For delicate foods such as poached fish, a milder oil should be used. Also, refrigerated home made mayonaise only lasts a few days.

That explains things. The new Sun Web site – now made with olive oil.

There's a world of difference between homemade mayonnaise and the chemical-laden stuff manufactured by Hellmann's or Kraft. As SamD has noted, homemade mayo has great taste but no shelf life.

That reminds me, I have some fresh mayo, or at least it was fresh months ago, in the back of refrigerator that I have to throw out.

I thought real mayo was just oil slowly emulsified into an egg yolk. Right? I think That would be quite nice. Hellman's (although I like their mayo) not so much...

I use the Hellman's with canola oil.

I have actually tried this mayo with olive oil (yup, I had a coupon), and I don't find the olive oil taste very apparent. I am going back to Hellman's as soon as we use up this container (which may take a year or two at current rates of consumption).

I recently discovered both triscuits and wheat thins have olive oil + [insert fancy flavor] renditions. Don't know about the claim of health benefits but I'd imagine.

Is there really a taste to olive oil if its used in a baked good? I always thought of it as a raw flavor.

lab rat, Triscuits used to use coconut oil, I think. The olive oil is supposed to be healthier.

I've used extra virgin olive oil (out of last minute desperation) in my Jewish apple cake. It did not taste at all at the (very expensive) substitute oil that I used, so I don't think the taste could translate to triscuits or wheat thins naturally, anyway, lab rat.

Out of desperation, I once oiled cupcake tins with an olive oil cooking spray. The result was absolutely disgusting. You could definitely taste the olive oil. I adore baked goods, especially chocolate ones, and have a very high threshold before I leave something uneaten. I ended up throwing them out.

Read your ingredients. There is no measurable amount of olive oilve in olive oil Triscuits, plus they add MSG and they cost more. It is the lasyt ingredient. LOL

Triscuits – Regular
Ingredients :Whole Wheat, Soybean and/or Palm Oil, Salt.

Triscuits – Olive Oil and Rosemary
Ingredients :Whole Wheat, Soybean and/or Palm Oil, Maltodextrin, Salt, Spices (Includes Rosemary), Monosodium Glutamate (Flavor Enhancer), Onion Powder, Natural Flavor, Olive Oil.

ah, Mr. Yogato claims to have added olive oil as a topping, as noted on the "About" page on their website.

(I chose brownie crumbles instead.)

That is a reVOLTing picture! No wonder I don't use Pompeiian oil...UGH!

Dahlink, I fell for it too. After closer inspection of the label, I realized that this is not mayo made with olive instead of some other oil. It's actually labeled as "dressing" (think Miracle Whip) and tastes a lot like Miracle Whip. Mayo it is NOT! It is just another marketing gimmick. I would be willing to try Mayo with olive oil, if that's what it actually was.

Debra--that will teach me to read the labels!

Well, I did throw out that formerly fresh mayo, and today when I came home from work I saw that Mr. Jefferson had fished it out of the garbage. Tonight will not be a good night.

Maybe Mr. Jefferson had a hairball.

Thanks for the Wake Up call, but I'm not at all surprise.

Doesn't your fact-finding only support olive oil as a flavor trend? The juggernaut that is Nabisco is claiming it as a flavor when its merely a marketing ploy.

My Grandmother Minnie always made her own Mayonaisse. I thought she was just too cheap. Grand mom Z made ketchup and kept refilling the one long neck bottle to fool us into thinking we were eating H brand. I almost choked when I had the real bottled stuff.

Mayonnaise, like many other products, has a USDA Commercial Item Description and a Federal Regulation. For Mayonnaise the Regulation is 21 CFR § 169.140. The CID and regulation state what may be included in the product and the definitions of such descriptors as Light, Non-Fat, etc. Whenever you see an additional word or phrase in the name it means that the product does not qualify under the pertinent definition, such as "Pasteurized Process Cheese Food Product" instead of "Cheese."

Speaking of olive oil and docks, when I was in Germany a colleague went to Italy to work with the U.S. Forces there. One afternoon he was wandering by the port and noticed a long line of tank truck carrying olive oil being unloaded onto a tanker ship. They were using a vacuum hose which was inserted into the top of each tank truck to suck the olive oil off into the ship's tanks. When a trailer was empty they would lift the hose, drive out the empty tank truck, bring in a full one, drop the hose into the tank and keep sucking olive oil. While he was watching they lifted the hose, which was still sucking air, out of the empty truck and while waiting for the full truck, dropped the hose into the harbor, where it commenced sucking up harbor water and whatever was in and on it. With much gesturing and shouting the hose was lifted out of the harbor. And dropped into the next truck in line. Still want to buy that expensive "Made in Italy" olive oil? As a disclaimer, this incident took place over thirty years ago and one hopes that improvements have been made to bulk shipping practices.

Well, RIE, I guess that Olive Oil was infused with the essence of the Adriatic.

RiE, olive oil is a notoriously impure and adulterated product. Extra virgin? Maybe. Italian? Could be Turkish olives bottled in Italy. Who knows?

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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