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June 22, 2009

Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Village Square Cafe

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At this point, Cross Keys seems a little cafe-heavy to me. Yesterday I reviewed the Village Square Cafe, the latest in a series of eating places that have come and gone in the development since it opened.

(Actually it's come but not gone, and I think it has a pretty good chance of not going, but you know what I mean.) ...

 

What I find interesting is that all three places there now are offering variations on the cafe/bistro theme. You would think that at least the hotel would have a fine-dining restaurant. But obviously the business model restaurateurs think will sell now is casual but still a place you can sit down and get a beer or a glass of wine.

I was in Donna's at Cross Keys on a weeknight recently when I thought it would be slow, and the place was packed. The Village Square Cafe seems to be doing very well, too. I don't know about the hotel's coffee shop next to the cafe, but I haven't heard it's been suffering.

Maybe there is room for all three after all.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:30 AM | | Comments (28)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Comments

There was not one mention of me in this article about Cross Keys.

Apparently someone skipped the blogging tutorial on driving web traffic.

I would pay to see Elizabeth wrestling servers to the ground.

"But obviously the business model restaurateurs think will sell now is casual but still a place you can sit down and get a beer or a glass of wine."

Now? When has this basic model ever not been true?

This is the model of success largely (and perhaps largest of all) because it is the simplest to maintain the standards of.

No precious prima-donna pseudo-professionals... oi don't get me started.

When I lived a few blocks away in Roland Park, it would never have occurred to me eat in Sowhito. The place creeps me out.

What is Sowhito? It sounds like another one of those dumb city precious nicknames that the yuppies have come up with like SoBo.

Sowhito is reverse Soweto.

Oh, Sowhito. I get it. A delightful play on words. My the wit. Well, Lone Ranger, you are clever.

Sowhito seems an ironic opprobrium to be flung at Cross Keys from Roland Park.

Ironic? Indeed.

RE: Noise level: five of us from my old office went there for lunch a couple of weeks ago. As the crowd grew so did the volume, but somehow it was only louder, not noisier. Some places can be noisy, even at low volumes. Does that make sense?

I appreciate that Im not getting censored, but once again I unfortunately must point out: three stars, carry on.

And, once again, I'll point out that drive-by snark is tedious. If you want to learn to be properly annoying, carry on, you could do worse than to pay close attention to Owlie in all his incarnations.

And, yet once again, carry on/move along (or whatever your name is), we are reminded of that frequent Larry King comment: "Caller, do you have a question?"

One morning I woke up and I knew
You were really gone
A new day, a new way, and new eyes
To see the dawn.
Go your way, I'll go mine and
Carry on...

What bothers me about this review is EL's mention of the wine list being short and moderately priced but no more information. I would love to know what is offered. A little less about other restaurants and former restaurants and more about the beer and wine would be much appreciated.

It's online. EL

And I like cream in my coffee
And I like to sleep late on Sunday
And nobody knows me like my baby
And I like eggs over easy
With flour tortillas
And nobody knows me like my baby

" She drank the coffee dregs while she would fry his eggs in a golden frying pan"

EEL -- on the other hand, you may want to read the following article in today's New York Times. The writer bemoans the excessive emphasis by various restaurants on the quality of their beer offerings, which goes hand in hand with declining food quality at the same restaurants.

I didn't say I wanted more beer and wine at Village Square. Or different beer and wine selections. In the review EL made it a point to tell us the selection was limited. Then she dropped it. All I am saying is that if it is important to mention I would like more information in the review.

EEL -- based on your past comments in D@L and other blogs (such as Kasper On Tap), I understood that you generally want the Sun's dining reportage to place more emphasis on beer and wine, and less emphasis on how the food compares with that at "other restaurants" (to use your words). All I'm saying is that if you want too much beer and wine coverage, the food coverage is likely to take a back seat, and even suffer. As the Times article indicated, it is also likely to have an adverse effect on the quality of the food itself (and not just on the quality of the food coverage).

What I want is more wine and beer coverage in reviews and less about other restaurants that occupied the same space, other restaurants in the area, and other restaurants owned by the same people that own the one being reviewed. Note: not all of the above apply to this review. When was the last time EL wrote a review making direct comparisons between dishes at competing restaurants? Why I am I arguing about this?

Since I don't drink, I find anything beyond a sentence or two on the alcoholic options excessive. In fact, given a choice between a restaurant with a liquor license and one without, I'll pick the latter. After all I go to a restaurant to *eat.* If I wanted to drink, I'd go to a bar.

I reckon Elizabeth is hitting it about right if we both think she's off, EEL.

.

Anonymous, that is the most zen comment so far. I'd like to nominate it for comment of the week.

I'll go along with that.

Years ago I bought a hot dog from a cart called Zen Dogs. The hot dogs cost $2.50. I handed the young lady $3.00 and when I asked for change, she replied "Change comes from within."

RayRay, did you ask her to "make me one with everything"?

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About Elizabeth Large
Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic, blogs about memorable meals, dining trends, comings and goings on the restaurant scene and more.
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