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June 8, 2009

Monday Morning Quarterbacking: Bistro Blanc

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I called a friend of mine on her cell last night, and the background noise was so loud I could barely hear her.

"You'll never guess where we are," she said. "Bistro Blanc. They're giving everyone free champagne because they got a good review."

I see it's already on the Web site.

What the restaurant didn't realize was that she and her husband deserved that champagne. They had been the companions on the review, and they had liked the place so much they returned Saturday night. ...

Good as the food is, I'm not totally convinced Bistro Blanc can make a go of it. (And, believe me, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.) It seems out of the way, even if you live in Howard County. The service was ragged, too.

It doesn't help that Google maps isn't up to date yet, and our friends' GPS system was thrown off by the new traffic circles. Call for directions or get them from the Web site.

If you're curious about the photo, it's of a dessert named My Friend Joseph, in memory of a close friend of Chef Marc Dixon's. The cake has layers of brucelina and chocolate mousse, is covered in chocolate ganache, and is served with a strawberry-rhubarb compote and topped with a chocolate tuile.

At least that's what the caption says.

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:30 AM | | Comments (18)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Comments

If my restaurant got the dreaded 3-1/2 stars, I'm not sure I'd want to celebrate my newly acquired jinxed status. ;-)

Elizabeth, both of your links go to their website. I think you meant one of them to go to your review?

Yes, thanks. I'll fix it. This internet thing is tricky, isn't it? EL

If you visit their website, click on the link to the review and it takes you to the review on the Sun's site.

Howard County....blah. I hate to drive.

This internet thing is out to get all of us.

I had dinner there Friday evening, and I was impressed as well. The wine selection is terrific, since I was able to compare two different half glasses of wine along with my appetizer --the "Pig and Fig" of course -- unlike EL's, mine was one of the best things I've eaten recently, as the pork belly was just the right balance of fat to meat, cooked perfectly, and the figs with vanilla were a delicious balance. I could have eaten another order, or two, or three... I have to confess I'm not fond of foams -- I have to convince myself that the chef hasn't spit on my plate. Sorry for that visual, but I'll bet some of you think the very same thing. (Or, maybe it IS just me.) The foam was good nontheless.

Our waiter was very familiar with the wines on the list and recommended I try a Pinot Grigio with the appetizer. Normally I avoid most Pinot Grigios as they have little more complexity than water, but this was one of the most complex and different Pinot Grigios I've ever tasted. I preferred it to the other glass, a New Zealand Sauvingnon Blanc, which was no slouch. I also scarfed down my watercress salad, and my halibut entree, but my dining companion's rack of lamb was the star: a full eight ribs, with that fabulous ratatouille and couscous (of which I kept stealing forkfuls). Both the chocolate ganache and chocolate pavé were plate-licking good. (I refused to share any of the caramel mousse which accompanied the pavé.)

Service was good, although when the restaurant was full, our waiter left us with empty wine glasses for a good period of time; we had to flag him down to refill our glasses from our bottle which was on a trolley across the room (he did apologize for his lapse). The next time, I will insist on having our bottle on the table-- why do restaurants move the wine bottle too far away from the table for me to reach and pour my own? I realize it's suppose to ensure or represent another level of /more gracious/attentive service, but I prefer to pour the wine and pace ourselves. I don't mind if the bottle is left on the table and the waiter refills it for me, but I get upset when the bottle is kept out of reach. Does this annoy anyone else, or is this just my pet peeve?

As I mentioned, the restaurant was full on Friday evening. I don't know how busy it is on other nights, although the wine bar, availability of those tasty small plates, and retail store with tastings might help during slow times. It's not that far from Baltimore, just off Route 32S and is easy to find. The wait staff told us they were anxiously awaiting EL's review with fingers crossed -- I hope the Curse of the 3 1/2 Stars doesn't continue.

YP, I always make them leave the wine bottle on the table.

Eight ribs of lamb for one serving? Yikes! Too much food for me at one time.

Hal, not if I'm your dining companion. I don't think you and I would get along because you'd be forcing me away from your plate when I want just a taste. Or two.

YumPo, I'm with you on having the bottle within reach. And, unfortunately, I know exactly what you mean about the foam. Isn't this trend dead yet?

We tried out the "Sunday Supper" thing at Cinghiale yesterday. It was quite nice. $25 a person for assorted antipasti, choice of one of two main dishes, and a dessert.

We each tried one of the mains, and they were both quite good. I had roasted chicken leg and thigh, with soft polenta and a sage cream sauce and pieces of house-made pancetta. Yum! My wife had the Housemade Spaghetti “Alla Chitara”, Mussels, Shrimp, Zucchini, Cherry Tomatoes, Basil. Also really good!

We had a tasty bottle of Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi, and I'm happy to report that the bottle was left on the table without my even having to ask.

YP, I'd be willing to share as long as you were nice about it. :-)

It's great to have more to choose from in Howard County and 6 great restaurants in Howard County are offering "Dining Deals" June7-11, 2009 at HowardCountyDiningDeals.com

I've done the Sunday Supper at Cinghale as well. It is a pretty good deal, although I would like to see more specials on bottles of wine.

I have never heard of purchasing a bottle of wine and not having it on the table. At some really nice places I never had to reach for the bottle as my glass was kept at a proper level. Normally I pour at my own rate.

EEL, it most often happens with white wines, when they want to put the bottle in one of those ice buckets that make the wine too cold.

perfunctory three st.... wait wha?

Hal, I take it all back. I always ask and offer/reciprocate if my dining companion(s) are intrigued by what's on my plate (caramel mousse exempted-- but for you, I'd make an exception re: the caramel mousse ;-) ).

By the way, the bottle that was kept on the trolley was a pinot noir, so no valid ice bucket excuse on this one (which is why I was doubly annoyed).

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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