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June 23, 2009

I need some All-American restaurants

BaughersAmerican.jpg

 

I like the idea of Top 10 All-American Restaurants in honor of the Fourth, which Robert of Cross Keys proposed. But how exactly do I define All-American? Not New American, for sure. Not American, but with a wink (as in "I'm really cutting edge").

Feel free to not only come up with a definition, but also nominate places that should be on the list.

I love the caption for this photo: ...

Rodney Haines blows out the candles on his 100th birthday cake at Baugher's Restaurant where at 3 o'clock every day he has a Baugher's burger. Ed Schaefer,77, left, and Rodney's son Glenn, 75, right, were among the well-wishers.

This was in 1999. I wonder what happened to him. Well, I guess I know. But I hope when I'm 100 I'll be eating my favorite food in some restaurant at 3 p.m. every day.

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:46 PM | | Comments (32)
        

Comments

Note to Kaikala: if I live to be 100, don't even think of getting me a birthday cake decorated with flowers.

Friendly Farm Restaurant, for sure.

I'd say the definition of an American restaurant would be a restaurant where the atmosphere encourages family dining, and where the food is homemade, simply prepared, and unpretentious.

Michael's?

I love that caption, too. If I have to live that long, I want to be able to be like that. No flowers on my cake, though, please.

Ben's Chili Bowl?

Friendly Farm

My son suggests the Hard Rock. I know it's a chain, but it is rather American, isn't it? And, as he points out "memorabilia"!

It shouldn't be a BBq list, but it needs some on it (if that makes any sense). Any place with a good, unpretentious burger should also make the cut.

I'll admit that the All American designation is difficult because there will be a tendancy to have representation for different American restaurants. We end up with one bbq, one diner, one burger stand, one steakhouse, etc...

In order to prevent such a list, I would say that All American would mean classic family dining or country dining places like Baughers and Bullocks in Carroll County or the Williamsburg Inn inn or Friendly Farms in Baltimore County.

Another Carroll County restaurant I would suggest is Brickridge. They have a menu of regional American specialities with a special menu that rotates each week for a particular state.

Now, if we were including restaurants from outside of Baltimore, a case could be made for the cafe at the American Indian Museum in DC and City Tavern in Philly.

Even though their IPA isn't as bitter as it used to be I would nominate Red Brick Station.

I think you need at least one diner (Double T?), a traditional red-sauce Italian restaurant (Little Italy, take your pick), and an "American" Chinese restaurant. BBQ, cajun/creole, the kind of seafood restaurant where they ask "broiled or fried?" the way places in New Mexico ask "green or red?"... A good American-style Tex-Mex place would be good, too! Went to City Tavern, and it was just too twee for words. Friendly Farms still has an authenticity that places like Williamsburg Inn and City Tavern totally lack -- though the Disney-fied dining experience IS pretty American, I guess.

Rallo's in South Baltimore. It's where The Elite Meet to Eat ®.

I'm tracking withg Baltofoodie. An All-Am eatery isn't a place, it's a collection.

I knew this would be easy. EL

The Eastern House should be on the list for sure. The waitresses are super nice and the owner, Miss Mary, circulates to inquire if each patron is happy with their meal. There's a broad spectrum of choices from fried chicken to stuffed peppers to stuffed shrimp to London broil to a hand patted hamburger to a hot turkey sandwich. There are always a dozen or so vegetables, including stewed tomatoes, cucumber salad, and fried eggplant. Desserts--yummy pies, rice pudding, homemade cake.

One evening awhile back Miss Mary brought in a still-warm chocolate cake with seven minute frosting, something I hadn't seen in years.

There's almost always a family group or two celebrating a birthday or graduation or a business group having a meeting in the back room.

It's really a classic American restaurant.

I'm with RoCK. The one from this genre, one from another doesn't do much for me. It is more of a feel to me than something I can quantify.

I'm not so sure about Mitsatam. I love that place, and eat there every time I go to DC. The food there can be amazing and eye-opening. But it doesn't have that "American food" vibe to me.

I really hope that doesn't mean I think that "American food" equals middle class white American food, since that is what I grew up eating, but I suspect it might. If other folks are doing the same thing, this list is probably doomed from the start.

Where is Baltimore's Edna Lewis?

As RoCK points out, if you're looking for All-American dining, you almost have to head out to the country -- to family restaurants like Baugher's or Friendly Farms. The closer you get to Baltimore, the tougher the challenge becomes. Still, while Michael's, Eastern House and a personal favorite, Sunset, may not have a 'family' vibe, their large eclectic menus cover the gamut of American favorites. And that may be as close as you'll get without a long drive.

I second Bullock's in Carroll County and submit Kibby's in Baltimore. Now that's real American...Baltimore style.

Puh-leeze! If a diner is included on this list, do not make it Double T!

Having grown up in NJ (have I ever mentioned that?) which used to be The Land of Diners, I find Double T to be such a terrible example of a diner as not to actually be one at all.

A few places that come to mind...I agree with Friendly Farm's, Jimmy's Diner, Matthew's Pizza, Sunset Lounge. I was trying to think of a buffet-type place, but nothing comes to mind.

Well, I think an All American Restaurant is one that if it were located in a foreign country and you walked in, you would instantly recognize it as home.

I am also a Jersey transplant, but I would disagree Eve on the Double-T. Inasmuch as I have been to some very good and very bad diners in NJ, it fits right in with its large varied menu, specials, and the fact that some Double-Ts are better than others.

I would also add Kibby's, Jennings (Peggy is certainly an American treasure), and perhaps Attmans (although as far as deli goes, I've had better).

Excellent points. EL

Anonymous, your mention of buffets brought the Cozy Inn in Thurmont to mind. As Americana as it comes.

Eve, what, if any, area diners are up to New Jersey standards?

Joyce -- I've ate there a few times when in Thurmont. Have you been lately? Is it still decent food?

Friendly Farms or Ashalnd Cafe.

Anonymous - still pretty good and good value. The food is all ok in a very unseasoned bland kind of way that very senior citizens seem to prefer. But there's still the turkey and roast beef carved to order and lots of pies and cakes.

If you really enjoy the buffet thing, it's much better at Ryans on Eisenhower Drive in Hanover. I'm not actually a big buffet fan but Ryans constantly amazes me.

The challenge is that we're such a far-flung country with so many regional cuisines. Roast beef with Yorkshire Pud are British whether you're in Liverpool or London. Pasta with meat sauce is pretty much Italian, not limited to Bologna. But has anyone ever said "Let's go out tonight for Kansas crab cakes,' or "How about trying that great new restaurant that serves Maine pulled pork"?

The Pepper Mill

Yes, the Peppermill on the account that many of the patrons who dine there were present at the founding of the country.

How about Perring Place? It's a somewhat eclectic menu with nothing exotic,the food is basically well done, and you probably could find the same food in Baltimore or Bangor, Maine.

I know there are already quite a few Carroll County places, but another one is the Buttersburg Inn in Union Bridge.

Baughers?? Good pie!!

Michael's in Baltimore. A bit of a drive, but one of my favorites is the Butterburg Inn in Union Bridge.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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