baltimoresun.com

« The best yogurt | Main | Off to the ocean »

May 19, 2009

Cantler's named top seafood "dive." Say what?

Cantlers2.jpgI guess I should be glad when Maryland restaurants get any sort of national recognition, but at the same time I'm a little jaded about how national publications come up with their nominations of "best" whatever. So recently whenever I get one of these press releases, I ask.

Yes, I know it's the pot calling the kettle black. (See my Top 10 lists.)

But it still interested me that Coastal Living magazine named Cantler's Riverside Inn in Annapolis one of America's Top Seafood Dives. (I gather the magazine thinks "dive" is a positive term.) ...

Here's the item:

Maryland - Cantler's Riverside Inn, Annapolis
What to order: Anything involving crabs which are unloaded right at the dock. Try the rockfish stuffed with crab imperial.
What you'll pay: $11-$26 for entrées.

I asked the PR person how the writer, Steve Millburg, came up with Cantler's; and I got a nice e-mail back with a quote from Mr. Millburg: 

"A friend from Baltimore took me to Cantler's in 1998.  I loved the place.  It felt very relaxing: on the water, with open-air seating--such a classic Chesapeake Bay-area crab house that it almost seemed part of the natural landscape.  And the crab tasted wonderful. Since then, I've eaten at literally hundreds of other seafood restaurants. Cantler's remains what it was 11 years ago: one of my all-time favorites.

"For 2009, we decided to do a 'greatest hits' version of our Seafood Dives feature--listing our picks as best-ever dives in each coastal state. Settling on a winner for Maryland wasn't easy.  So many restaurants do such a great job with crab cakes (which I love), other crab dishes, and oysters. But the setting, the friendliness, and especially the food pushed Cantler's to the top."

Nothing against Cantler's, but did you try Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn in Essex, Mr. Millburg? Of course, you won't get the water view, but I feel like it ought to have been in the running.

(Doug Kapustin/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:09 PM | | Comments (16)
        

Comments

Cause everybody knows you've got to dive to catch seafood. Right into the wine-dark sea.

Best seafood dive? That's like best alcoholic parent.

I can say Mr. Bill's has great crabs, that is evident by the people that wait in line (for hours some weekends) to get his crabs. I'm not crazy about the rest of the food on the menu. It is a crab house, you shouldn't go there expecting to get an unforgettable entree.

Lazy

Cantler's remains what it was 11 years ago: one of my all-time favorites.

How does Mr. Miller know this?

Oh, wait, I get it. His memory of that one day at Cantler's is one of his all-time favorites. Well....that's certainly scientific.

Seafood dive...I get it. Yuk, yuk, yuk.

Bottom of the Bay. Laurel. All-you-can-eat crabs. Dive? It puts the crust in "crustacean".

Cantler's is a joke. I paid $75/dozen for crabs last week that Bill's wouldn't charge $48/dozen for. They didn't even hardly come with any seasoning on them. And to sit on cruddy picnic tables? I'll take no view in Essex @ Mr. Bill's anyday.

Eve, you know how Mr. Miller knows that! He watches the Food Network and the Travel Channel!


What about Harris's. Great view,
great crabs, and the very best seafood
in Maryland. Not to mention excellent and friendly service.

Cantler's is one of 13 Maryland places included in the complete list of seafood dives, which includes the Wharf Rat and Bertha's in Baltimore. Discuss, please. (I bet that will stir up the Sandbox.)

Whether it's the best crab dive, burgers or rutabaga pie, state by state, these round-ups rarely make sense. The writer invariably has to rely on a distant memory, a local writer or his Aunt Florence whose neighbor's son's veterinarian's's wife loves the cole slaw at Oscar's BBQ Rendezvous. So it probably has the best ribs in Maryland although she's never actually eaten them, now that you mention it. The results may be wryly amusing but if I want a restaurant recommendation, I'll trust our fearless leader and the savants of the sandbox.

Wharf Rat...they serve seafood there? Bertha's...small and gritty muscles. Come on now...is this the best they can do?

Cantler's the best? I've only been there twice. I think the crabs are pre-cooked, then reheated to serve. Both times mushy, watery crabs. Yuk.

I can't vouch for the rest of the list, but our family likes both Price's in Have De Grace and Woody's in North East.

On second thought, I have also been to the Warf Rat and agree that I don't even remotely think of it as a seafood place.

Cantler's is also named as a central feature of Southern Living's "12 Ultimate Trips for Kids" in the June issue...under "Visit an authentic crab shack."

Post a comment

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Sign up for FREE text alerts
Get free Sun alerts sent to your mobile phone.*
Get free Baltimore Sun mobile alerts
Sign up for dining text alerts

Returning user? Update preferences.
Sign up for more Sun text alerts
*Standard message and data rates apply. Click here for Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Food & Drink newsletter
Need ideas for dinner tonight? A recommendation for the perfect red wine? Baltimoresun.com's Food & Drink newsletter is there to help.
See a sample | Sign up

Stay connected