Why do chefs oversalt?
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I feel like in the last few restaurant reviews I've been overcomplaining about oversalting.
Even if the complaints are justified, I know they can get boring to read.
But it always puzzles me why chefs don't err on the side of slightly underseasoning if they are going to have salt and pepper on the table.
So many people, given the opportunity, salt their food automatically before they taste it. Some portion of those who don't are trying to cut down on their salt, doctor's orders. So what's the downside? ...
I'm not fanatical about salt. When I cook, I use it on meat and starches but not fresh vegetables. I like salty snacks when I'm in the mood. My blood pressure is good, so I don't have to worry about it.
On the other hand, I have a friend who is more health conscious than I, never salts anything and drives me crazy by actually de-salting pretzels with his fingers before eating them.
But no good deed goes unpunished. At his yearly physical, routine labwork showed that the salt levels in his blood were unusually low. His internist said that could be a sign of several different health problems, and he had to have more bloodwork done. (Everything was fine.)
The moral of this story is -- well, there is no moral except my usual boring everything in moderation. But the point is, I like salt but I wish restaurant kitchens would go easy with the salt shaker.
(AP Photo/Jim Noelker)








Comments
Salt brings out the flavour of the food. However, with the health craze of the last 30 years, people use salt less, so an amount of salt that would have been perfectly reasonable for nearly everyone 20 years ago now tastes like oversalting to many.
At least, that is my theory.
(And, what on earth is Viking smoked salt? Salt smoked over a Viking cremation?)
Posted by: Lissa | April 10, 2009 8:15 AM
Why do chefs oversalt? For the same basic reason that owner complained about last week. Ego.
To succeed as a top-flite chef requires a very large one and it will come through in all manner of actions such as dictating how much salt is enough.
Following the direction of others, let alone a house recipe, is antithetical to their entire approach to the work. He is the chef.. therefore he knows best... therefore it is the exactly correct amount of salt.
Posted by: MrRational | April 10, 2009 8:19 AM
Perhaps it's just a difference in sensitivity to salt. I more often find restaurant food to be undersalted.
Posted by: Hal Laurent | April 10, 2009 8:28 AM
I believe in moderation in moderation.
Posted by: Bucky | April 10, 2009 8:55 AM
I've always felt that salt and seasonings grow stronger and more pronounced with time. That is you're making a sauce and it tastes flat, so you add salt until it is to your liking. Then the sauce sits and the salt seems permeate and develop. The next time you taste the sauce it seems over salted.
My other theory is that many cooks smoke, so their sense of taste is diminished resulting in a tendency to over salt.
Posted by: Robert of Cross Keys | April 10, 2009 9:48 AM
This may just be hearsay, and I’m not trying throw smokers under the bus, but I’ve heard that chefs who smoke tend to over salt because their taste buds are weakened as a result of smoking. And as we know, due to the stress of the restaurant industry, many chefs do indeed smoke. Just what I’ve heard.
Posted by: CantonK | April 10, 2009 10:05 AM
Assuming it's not your imagination (and I think that's a safe assumption, even though I rarely, if ever, encounter the oversalt problem), then I offer the following reasons for oversalting:
1. If many many chefs/cooks do this, they've been trained to do so.
2. Kickbacks from Morton, et al.
3. They're salting for palates like mine, ones that have, after years of bad habits and shallow thinking, lost the finer ranges of saline sensitivity.
Posted by: jl | April 10, 2009 10:50 AM
I don't know if it is true or not, but it is interesting:
Thomas Edison is reported to "testing" anyone he was thinking about hiring. He would invite them to have a bowl of soup with them...and anyone adding salt without first tasting the soup failed his test.
Edison didn't trust anyone making decisions based upon unfounded assumptions. How did they know the soup need more salt? They couldn't...unless they tasted it first.
Pre-salting is just dumb if you ask me.
Posted by: Dan | April 10, 2009 11:07 AM
"But it always puzzles me why chefs don't err on the side of slightly underseasoning if they are going to have salt and pepper on the table.
I have heard of restaurants where the chef has removed salt and pepper from the tables. "Do not adjust your food. We will control the salt level. We will control the pepperiness." (With apologies to Rod Serling)
I actually have some of the "Australian Murray River" salt pictured above, though not from Salt Traders. Mine is called "Murray River Apricot Salt" and describes it as "Delicate peach colored (not apricot?) flake with a wonderfully mild flavor. Crystals melt quickly & evenly, ideal for cooking and baking. Source is the Murray River in the snowy Australian Alps. All natural from underground brine deposits in the Murray Darling Basin." Tastes like salt.
I have been known to "decrust" salt manually from french fries.
I wonder if the "Jewel of the Ocean" salt comes from an older brother of the "Jewel of the Nile"?
Posted by: Retired in Elkridge | April 10, 2009 11:56 AM
It's a plot by the salt cabal to fatten their coffers.
Posted by: RayRay | April 10, 2009 12:19 PM
Dan, I've heard that Edison story, too, and always liked it. But I have no more idea than you do whether it's true.
And Hal may be on to something with the salt sensitivity theory. My step-mom is very sensitive to the taste of salt and finds many things over-salted, while I have quite the opposite problem, though I rarely add salt to much besides potatoes, which were born to be salty.
Posted by: KristinB | April 10, 2009 1:56 PM
I have noticed that EL very often complains about dishes being over-salted in her reviews, whereas I almost never find a dish too salty. I love and adore salt, but now that I have a medical condition that requires limiting salt, I find that steering away from processed foods does the trick for the most part. Maybe if we ate out more often I would find this more problematic.
My sister once dated a guy who took her home for dinner. The food was terribly bland, so my sister timidly asked if she could have salt and pepper, only to have the mother say "Everything is Perfectly Seasoned." End of discussion.
Posted by: Dahlink | April 10, 2009 2:55 PM
I love salt in and on most foods but I too pick the salt off of pretzels. I just don't like it on there!
I'm of the twice seasoning school. I season as I begin the cooking process, and then taste and adjust seasoning at the end of the process.
I've never oversalted, but I have over-garlic powdered once when the lid came off and all the contents into the stew I was making. Luckily, I was able to spoon most of it out and save dinner but it was pretty garlicky flavored.
Posted by: Joyce W. | April 10, 2009 4:21 PM
Bucky and Joyce, they do sell unsalted pretzels. I actually look for the well-salted kind because they just don't taste right without it. Just like the reason cannibals won't eat clowns: they taste funny.
As an extra added bonus, the finalists for the Third Annual Peeps Diorama Contest are out. As they used to say in Chicago, Vote early and vote often.
Posted by: Retired in Elkridge | April 10, 2009 7:04 PM
Oh, Joyce W., you just reminded of the time I accidentally dumped a pile of pepper in the soup--oops!
Posted by: Dahlink | April 10, 2009 7:48 PM
Dahlink, sometimes the accidents that happen in the kitchen are much more interesting conversation than the successes, aren't they?
I know my sister and I still laugh about the time mom blew up the roast because she forgot to punch holes in the roasting bag!
Posted by: Joyce W. | April 11, 2009 9:41 AM
Joyce, that sounds like a very interesting technique for making roast beef hash.
Posted by: Lissa | April 11, 2009 10:41 AM
Lissa, that's sort of like my HR dept saying "making lemons into lemonade?"
Posted by: Joyce W. | April 11, 2009 7:50 PM