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April 5, 2009

Next Sunday's review: Meridian 54 -- not



So I finally went to Meridian 54 (formerly Red Fish, Le Bistro Midi and Weber's on Boston) in Canton and had a nice meal. I wrote up my review and turned it in.

My editor read it and thought maybe I should give the food 3 stars instead of 2 1/2 based on my description. I read it again and agreed, although I had said I thought the accompaniments were better than the entrees, but so complicated (different ones for each of 13 entrees), I didn't see how it was cost effective when the place had so few dining room customers.

Why am I telling you all this a week in advance? ...




Because when I talked to the photographer, who took some mighty fine photos, she casually asked if I knew the chef had only started last Sunday.

Uh, no.

I called the restaurant and spoke to the new chef, Tom Friend. He wasn't changing the menu much, he told me, just having the sides "something more universal" because the place had been losing money on them. He also wants to have specials, which the former chef didn't -- mostly "fresh catch" items. The offerings will become more Mediterranean. Every day there will be one Greek, one Italian and one American special available.

The dishes he mentioned were grilled rockfish, chicken Chesapeake, fish and chips, and boneless lamb with roast potatoes. 

My guess is that most folks were ordering the sandwiches, pizza, dinner salads and sliders anyway, so that some of the fine-dining aspects of Meridian 54 are going to disappear. But no one is exactly saying that.

Yet another review bites the dust. I don't have time before I leave for LA next Friday to rush out and do another one, so no review next Sunday. But I will use Barb's very nice photos and discuss the changes at Meridian 54 in Table Talk. Not this Wednesday's Table Talk, because my deadline for it was Thursday, but the Table Talk that will appear in the Wednesday, April 15 Taste section.

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:43 AM | | Comments (5)
Categories: Review Preview


In light of the title, I expected you to say that it's closed.

I was expected you to say that you gave it 3.5 stars and the restaurant burst into flames.

Eve, I thought the same thing!

BTW, got a flyer last night saying that Egyptian Pizza is now in Valley Village shopping center. Not gone, just moved.

I ate there just after it first opened and thought there were a lot of different choices on the menu and the food, while a bit pricey, was very good. Its been a while - so frankly I don't remember what I had - but I am definitely looking forward to going back.

We ate there during Restaurant Week and had our best ever RW experience. I hope the quality is the same.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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