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March 6, 2009

Wanted: bouillabaisse for Lent

SeafoodSaffronBouillabaisse.jpgCarlos sent me this request for bouillabaisse for Lent, which I said I would post to get some ideas from you:

I had a tough time finding a restaurant serving this great french fish soup. Rusty Scupper says they do, as does a place at 1606 Thames Street (Kalis?). Any others you know of? 

I'm not sure how many more he needs. There are only five more Fridays in Lent, right? Does Good Friday even count?

The only other ones I could come up with looking in the archives were the seafood saffron bouillabaisse at Jack's Bistro in Canton (pictured) and the Thai bouillabaisse at Kings Contrivance in Columbia, neither of which is traditional. We need at least one more.

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:46 AM | | Comments (16)


I'm pretty sure Petit Louis used to serve one, but I don't know if they still do.

Catonsville Gourmet serves a killer bouillabaisse. They also have a LOT of different fish on the menu.

Does Good Friday even count? ... Decades ago I assisted from time to time at an "old" and prominent downtown congregation. The first time I helped with the traditional three hour Good Friday service, I was shocked to return to the clergy vesting room where a bottle of very good scotch and three glasses (the number of clergy) were displayed on a silver tray. The senior cleric, noting my surprised look, handed me a rather full glass and said, "Lent is now over. Enjoy!"

Bouillabaisse for Lent reminds me of how the Trappists learned to fortify their cheeses during the 40 days when they ate no animal flesh. By skimming off the cream from some of the milk and adding it to other milk during cheesemaking, they could double or triple the cream content, producing rich and luscious delicacies, all in the name of abstinence. You will still see double and triple "creme" cheeses, especially when you shop for brie. To this day the mac & cheese entree at Holy Cross Monastery in West Park, NY, is unbelievably good.

That's what I was struck by, too. Bouillabaisse isn't exactly plain, denial, fuel-for-the-body kind of food. EL

Yes, Good Friday counts. Its a big one too, like Ash Wednesday.

This question makes me sad. It reminds me that Martick's is gone.

Being a coastal community (you know, the harbor, hon), you'd think we'd be more on to the bouillabaisse thing (at least I'm thinking we should).

I can go to any restaurant in Miami and get bouillabaisse in some form - even the kosher restaurants have it (sans the shellfish of course). Ummm. I'm thinking velvety saffron broth with a hint of wine filled with chunks of seafood and fine crusty bread on the side would be a great find indeed.

I live in a coastal community and have never seen bouillabaisse on a menu.

Probably because they can't spell it. And fish stew sounds nasty.

Joyce, Baltimore bouillabaisse would have too much (which is to say, any) Old Bay in it.

In years past, I have really enjoyed the fanesca at La Cazuela. It's traditionally served during Holy Week. It's the most amazing, super filling soup. I'm looking forward to ordering it again this year.

Lissa, I think you hit the nail on the head. Baltimore bouillabaisse is crab soup.

If I remember correctly, and odds are agin' that, The Black Olive makes a variation of this dish

From the Black Olive's menu:
Half Kakavia 17.00
Greek predecessor to Bouillabaisse

Not crazy about the name. Sounds like the midpoint on the Crappian Way.

Hue -- your memory is good. The Black Olive has Kakavia on its lunch and dinner menus. The lunch menu describes it as a "Greek predecessor to Bouillabaisse".

Hmm--we had bouillabaisse with lunch yesterday, made with local seafood. Good, but not within walking distance of any place in Baltimore.

Mariluna in Pikesville serves an awesome Mariscada. It is the Latin American answer to Bauilabasse...and I love it!

Dahlink is such a tease.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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