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January 25, 2009

Next Sunday's review: Restaurant Sabor

Sabor1.jpgRoddy Domacasse is a chef who has certainly paid his dues at any number of well-respected restaurants around town, from Linwoods to the now-closed Brasserie Tatin.

Now he has his own restaurant in the Timonium/Lutherville area, where he can not only produce the fine-dining dishes he was known for elsewhere, but also some of the specialties of his native Puerto Rico.

Pretty soon I'm going to have to stop bemoaning the fact that there are so many chains and so few local nice restaurants north of the city, as more places (I hope) like his Restaurant Sabor open up.

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:55 AM | | Comments (23)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Comments

This place looks like it moved into what (was?) Cafe Isis. I am guessing that they are no more?

Also anyone know what the deal is with Victor's Cafe in Timonium? It was Victor's then it was Pizza Rustico, now it seems to be Scittino's. I swear that Timonium Crossing seems to be cursed for restaurants/businesses. Haussner's had an outpost there and then Bibelot/Donna's was there and now Victor's or at least it was?

You're right, it's where Cafe Isis was. I don't know about Scittino's. Anybody? EL

We just ate at Scuttino's on Friday night. I asked our waitress when it changed from Victor's, and she said August. It was pretty good and reasonably priced. I was there around 8, and it was crowded.

I definitely miss Cafe Isis. I live right down the street from the Roundwood Center and I frequented Isis quite often. I haven't been to Sabor yet, and I hope it succeeds, but the menu is definitely way pricier than that of Isis.

Thanks! EL

Does Victor still own the place?

We had delivery from Scottino's last night through carryoutmenu.com. We noticed it as a new entry in the available restaurants in our area. The menu looked much broader than pizza, so we gave it a try. Most of us ended up wanting pizza, so that is largely what we ordered, but it was really terrific--white pizza with bacon added, meat lovers, cheese steak pizza--all great. Caprese salad was just ok, but it's a tough time of year for tomatoes. Side of sauteed spinach isn't something you can get at your average pizza carryout. We'll definitely patronize Scottino's again.

Had dinner at Restaurant Sabor Thursday because of the Thursday special, coq au vin. I had a very good dinner, but if you are looking for a classic coq au vin don't bother. It was a good dish and the pearl onion, 2 quartered mushrooms and a few bits of bacon proved it was not the regular menu roast chicken, but a thin light not quite clear broth does not a coq au vin make. Deep, dark richly flavoured, that's coq au vin. Again, nice dish, just not what I expected, or wanted (not that I didn't clear my plate, of course.) I suspect the kitchen is making a sauce and pouring it over the regular baked chicken and viola, instant coq au vin, or at least something you can sell and call coq au vin. If you are expecting something from Mastering the Art of French Cooking , it's not happening.

First the menu at Brasserie 10 South ("jur", "prixe fixe", and "fricasse") and now the free wheeling coq au vin...is this a trend?

I generally try to keep my viola out of the kitchen. It is flammable, after all.

Lissa, do you really have a viola, or was it just necessary for the joke?

Hey, Lissa, one dyslectic picking on another dyslectic? That's just mean. ; )

Sorry, RtSO. You are right, it was a tad mean. Spell check wouldn't catch it, because viola is a legitimate word. It is like the time when, in one of my college papers, I wrote that Queen Margaret of Scotland was interned at thus and such a cathedral after her death.

Amused the heck out of me, though. Hal, I recently got rid of my viola. Played for years. Figures I'd play a minority instrument that everyone forgets, eh?

Dyslexics of the world, untie!

I love the V I O L A. Harold in Italy I love. I just wish Mozart had written more for it. (Yes, I know, Harold is not his.)

I liked Harold and Maude. Oh wait a minute, that was a movie.

I always liked the viola too.

Hal, I feel you!

PCB Rob, I liked Harold and Maude, too. Even if the viola part was boring.

Lissa

I play the violin and I think I remember Hal saying he played cello. One more violin and we could have had a quartet.

LEC, I no longer have my viola, but maybe we could get a foursome for bridge and snacks instead?

I think Hal plays a more obscure instrument (name escapes me ...)

Hal plays a number of instruments. He suspects Dahlink is thinking of the mandobass.

Hal also wonders why he's talking about himself in the third person.

Left handed sewer flute, maybe?

Hal

Speaking of basses I also play the tuba and sousaphone.

I guess we can't say the Sandbox has no strings attached.

Lissa, we spent many hours listening to P.D.Q. Bach in my family. My Dad's favorite was the competition between the conductor and orchestra performing Beethoven's Fifth with the radio announcer's play-by-play commentary.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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