Beef, beef and more beef (and more wine than I drink in a month)

One of these days I'm going to take a trip out of the country and actually read up about my destination before I leave, maybe even think about what I want to do and see.
The problem was I couldn't imagine being in Buenos Aires until I was actually here. What with the company I work for filing for bankruptcy protection, the nasty weather and the stomach flu, I was particularly sure I wouldn't be here.
But here I am.
I have to tell you the end of the story of Christmas dinner at the beautiful Bella Italia restaurant. ...
If you read my earlier post on being invited to Christmas dinner there and the comments that followed, you know that Katy from British Columbia who is traveling here wondered if it was a private party or if the restaurant was open.
It was a private party, and when I got there the hostess pulled me aside and took me to the owner, who seemed worried.
She showed me the e-mail she had received from Katy who "had read on Elizabeth Large's blog that she was having Christmas dinner there" and was wondering if she, Katy, could make reservations. I got the feeling the owner thought Katy was a friend of the wedding party and had printed the e-mail out to show it to the hostess.
I did my best, but blogs are difficult to explain if you don't know about them. Later when the hostess told some of the other guests, there was even discussion of finding Katy at the nearby Bella Italia Cafe where she was having dinner as a second choice and inviting her to the party; but nothing came of it. At that point the champagne was flowing freely.
I didn't expect my first meal in Argentina to be Italian, but apparently Buenos Aires has a sizable Italian population. Hors d'oeuvres had been passed with the champagne, which I ate perhaps too many of because it was late.
Dinner started with plates of olives and cheeses being passed around, followed by pizzetas de jambon rudos y rucula (with prosciutto and arugula), then an upscale version of eggplant parmigiana. When a plate of one was finished another one appeared, so it was hard to stop.
The main course was a choice of escalope de lomo (remember what lomo means; you'll need it to follow this trip) in a wine sauce, ravioli, or risotto with calamari. (It was the first of my four beef meals here so far. I've had a lomo sandwich with roasted peppers for lunch twice.)
In a moment of admirable restraint, I chose for dessert the spuma de lima, a light, citrusy mousse over fresh orange segments and a fruity sauce, instead of the tiramisu or chocolate mousse.
At the very end, each table was presented with the most beautiful panettone I've ever seen in honor of the holiday. Only one person at our table cut herself a piece, though, and that was only to wrap it up in a napkin and take it home for breakfast.
I'm doing very well on this schedule by staying on Baltimore time the whole trip, so I have no trouble staying up for 9 p.m. or 10 p.m. dinners. The only reason I'm up to write this is that the man in the room next door must have gotten in a fight with his girlfriend/wife/significant other because he or she locked him out naked and he banged on the door and yelled until he was finally let back in.
When I leaned out the door to inquire, he responded with a flood of apologetic Spanish; but since all the Spanish I know comes from watching The Magnificent Seven, and anyway he was naked, I just ducked back in my room.








Comments
Ah...what would a trip to South America be without at least one encounter in the hotel hallway with a Spanish-speaking guy whose lomos are unclothed.
Posted by: Bucky | December 27, 2008 10:17 AM
I found that Italian was the dominant cultural influence in BA. It's the most European Latin American city, except maybe Montevideo. When I was there they were a little too Italian for my taste, meaning that there was a weird Italian affectation that some put on. People said that a quarter of people in BA or Argentina have Italian roots. Maybe. One notable affectation was that some people called it Bonos or Buonos Aires. I don't remember much Spanish influence at all. Their trains and telecomm systems were quite Italian in (lack of) functionality. But I do remember that you can't swing a dead gato without hitting an Italian restaurant. Even if you did speak Spanish, you would probably be lost in BA since they have there own accent, cadence and different pronunciation of some letters. Beef is the true language.
Posted by: Owl Meat Gnöstic | December 27, 2008 10:25 AM
Any vacation that includes food like that and a naked, apologetic man has got to be good.
Posted by: Lissa | December 27, 2008 10:26 AM
That panettone is the most amazing I've ever seen! I think I would have taken a piece with me, too.
Lomo rules!!
Enjoy the food, fun, and naked men...☺
Posted by: Janet Morrissey | December 27, 2008 10:28 AM
What--no candid photos of the hallway incident?
Now I can say that our Christmas lomo was the best ever. I served it with a double mustard-horseradish sauce. Yum!
Posted by: Dahlink | December 27, 2008 10:49 AM
That must have been some argument!
And the dinner sounds fantastic.
Posted by: Retired in Elkridge | December 27, 2008 11:25 AM
Did you have any Fernet-Branca? Supposedly it's huge down there! I have just discovered the popular drink of Fernet + cola.
That's a great looking panettone - they are one of my favorite parts of the holidays.
Posted by: mari | December 27, 2008 3:24 PM
BA residents, who call themselves Portenos, people of the port, speak Castilian, or castellano, a dialect from Central Spain hard to understand by even some primary Spanish speakers, plus they use Lunfardo local slang. From 1900 to after WWII, Europeans who couldn't get into the US were accepted there. The biggest groups were Germans, Italians and Jewish populations who have stayed somewhat distinct, including eating places and language. All coffee is served with Italian "cornetti" sweet croissants they call media lunes. The tango music is centered on the German-accordian-like bandoneon. Cafe and public square life feels European. Since 2001's currency devaluation made it cheap, young people from Europe moved in search of the exotic with the tastes and language of home, and have been joined by plenty of US tango addicts. I hope Ms. Large comes back to us.
Posted by: Marty Katz | December 27, 2008 4:07 PM