baltimoresun.com

« Monday Morning Quarterbacking | Main | Real men eat steak and read Esquire »

August 11, 2008

My first review


FirstReview.jpgBefore you get too nostalgic about how much more accurate the paper used to be, let me remind you about a review I wrote in the '70s when I was a freelancer.

The restaurant was in a bad neighborhood, so my lead was something like, "As he was walking my husband and me to our car, the owner said..."

I opened the paper the day it was printed, and some editor or copy editor had changed the lead -- the LEAD, mind you -- to "As he was walking my husband and I to the car, the owner said..."

To add insult to injury, ... 

A couple of days later The Sun printed letters from outraged readers without an editor's note saying that it wasn't my mistake. My father was an English professor, so the whole thing was doubly mortifying.

Anyway, this got me thinking about my early days, so I asked Paul the librarian to dig up my first review for me. Our computer archives don't go back that far. It was of Danny's, at N. Charles and Biddle streets, the fanciest, most expensive restaurant in town:

The entrees begin at $7.50 and work their way up. While that doesn't seem extraordinarily expensive to me for beef Wellington or lobster, I have to admit I was shocked at the sight of crab cakes a la Maryland, cole slaw and homefried potatoes for $8.50. 

I guess it's not a surprise that things were somewhat cheaper then. However, when I read the review I was shocked now that the Grand Marnier souffle was $8. Maybe it was for two.

My ending was this:

It was all good -- it just wasn't unforgettable: except for the dime [the owner] gave us for our telephone reservation. Somehow, since our check [for three] came to about $50, that seemed a little superfluous. 

By the way, the jump of my review was next to an advice column by Billy Graham. I didn't remember that.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:49 AM | | Comments (20)
        

Comments

Plugged into an inflation calculator for prices up to 2007, your entree and dessert prices would work out to $7.00 ($36.79), $8.00 ($39.24), and $8.50($41.69). II am glad for the good new days. The dime on the other hand wouldn't get you the phone call as it is only worth 49 cents.

Danny's was my favorite restaurant in all of Baltimore. Their ceaser salad was the best ever, bar none!

I am looking for a dinner recommendation in Fells Point for a special birthday dinner. Any suggestions?

The Chesapeake, too, used to issue a check for ten cents.

I remember an anecdote from Roger Kahn's book on the Dodgers "The Boys of Summer"(a terrific read if you haven't already"), he tried several times to get the lead "they died with their boots" when the Dodgers had lost a game due to errors, but a copy editor always "corrected" the lead to read"they died with their boots on!"

mdlrvrmuncher - inflation calculator? I couldn't be prouder.

I remember going into Danny's or was it the Chesapeake for a drink in my college years as part of my drinking my way up Charles Street elective. It was a little surreal. There was a time warp factor, with a bartender in a red jacket shining glasses with a towel. It had a little The Shining vibe.

Harvey, if you're looking for a more intimate setting instead of something hip and trendy (is this a quiet / romantic birthday dinner or a group outing?), I'm a fan of The Black Olive. It's Greek, specializes in fresh seafood and very expensive (at least by my standards), so I don't know if that fits your needs. But I sent friends there for a romantic birthday dinner a few weeks ago, and they raved about it the next 2-3 times I talked to them.

EL, you probably remember better than me ... what were the usual accessories to dinners way back when you were starting out? I didn't grow up in a big city, so my memories might be a little more podunky. I remember cole slaw, French fries, apple sauce, and the parslet sprig. Any other standards that you recall for "fine" dining from the Dark Ages? (Dark Ages of food, not to infer that you were around 1000 years ago. Sorry.)

Well, of course there was the red spiced apple ring. Wonder what happened to it. EL

I think you can still get a red spiced apple ring as a garnish at Steve's Restaurant on Route 40 in Golden Ring/White Marsh.

RoCK: and like fruitcake, there is probably only one actual spiced apple ring, but it gets passed from plate to plate. It is really 70 years old.

Back when I was a kid you could go to a restaurant and get a meal completely devoid of color. I think that's what caused my syphilis.

Example: Chicken, mashed potatoes, creamed corn, apple sauce and milk. Other options: bread, butter, cold slaw or French fries. On a white plate.

And one bowl of candy corn for Halloween.

Speaking of food devoid of color, I remember that Danny's put little bowls of cottage cheese on the table. Even way back then, that threw me.

Cottage cheese in Baltimore's finest restaurant? Oo la la! What a wondrous world I missed out on. Please tell me more. Cottage cheese?

Spiced apple rings! I was so thrilled when I found a jar of them last year, on the clearance rack at Safeway, IIRC.

They were delicious. I need more. They will help erase the memory of many ice cold wedges of inedible iceburg lettuce passing for "salad" in my youth.

Mandell's deli used to put a bowl of pickles and pickled tomatoes on the table when you sat down, much the way many places now bring a bread basket.

If I remember correctly at Danny's one always got a plate of pickles and a brioche, complimentary.
Danny's use to have a "saddle of lamb" that was terrific. Have not seen it on a menu since....not even sure exactly what cut it was!

I used to love spiced apples! EL, even you have to admit that there are certain sides that are almost mandatory, ie prime rib and baked po; or crabcake and slaw; I wonder if there are stats on the most popular go-withs of any certain era?

I also have to report that for those willing to travel a bit, that, Sheppard's Mansion in Hanover is a wonderful and romantic dinner destination and also (I believe) a B&B for those loathe to drive all the way back to Balmer in one night. The food is prepared in a non-fussy but creative manner, the roll are made in house and are served hot and they have a pretty large wine list that ought to satiate any thirst. Although rather on the higher priced side, for once lately after paying the bill, I didn't sit there dazed asking myself what was worth that kind of money. BTW, for those who care about such things, the mansion is from the late 1800's or early 1900's and has been beautifully restored. With this decor and wonderful service combined with the delicous food we had, if I have to heartily reccomend this place to all!

Terriermom, I only ate at Danny's a few times, but I seem to remember small dishes of cottage cheese and apple butter being placed on the table with a basket of rolls and crackers right after we were seated. Food, and life, was simpler 30 and 40 years ago. I had my first bouilliabaisse (sp?) and my first Beef Wellington at Danny's.

My 21st birthday dinner, however, was at the Chesapeake. My stepmom must've mentioned it was my birthday when she made the reservation, because at some point the maitre d' presented me with a small gift. I was VERY impressed!

Hue, the saddle is both rib racks, with the rib ends removed and still connected to the backbone. I only know because several years ago my husband and I dined at the Savoy in London, and I asked the waiter to explain where the saddle was on the critter.

Post a comment

All comments must be approved by the blog author. Please do not resubmit comments if they do not immediately appear. You are not required to use your full name when posting, but you should use a real e-mail address. Comments may be republished in print, but we will not publish your e-mail address. Our full Terms of Service are available here.

Verification (needed to reduce spam):

About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
-- ADVERTISEMENT --

Top Ten Tuesdays
Most Recent Comments
Baltimore Sun coverage
Restaurant news and reviews Recently reviewed
Browse photos and information of restaurants recently reviewed by The Baltimore Sun

Sign up for FREE text alerts
Get free Sun alerts sent to your mobile phone.*
Get free Baltimore Sun mobile alerts
Sign up for dining text alerts

Returning user? Update preferences.
Sign up for more Sun text alerts
*Standard message and data rates apply. Click here for Frequently Asked Questions.
  • Food & Drink newsletter
Need ideas for dinner tonight? A recommendation for the perfect red wine? Baltimoresun.com's Food & Drink newsletter is there to help.
See a sample | Sign up

Stay connected