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August 27, 2008

Of western Maryland and processed calamari

RockyGap.jpgI don't get out as far as Cumberland to review restaurants, but Federal Hill Jim was there recently and had this to say:

"Not much to report on our Western Maryland trip, other than we enjoyed Rocky Gap very much. It's underappreciated around here -- but not a dining destination. [I found this photo in the archives of the Lakeside Restaurant at Rocky Gap Lodge and Golf Resort. It looks pretty nice, Jim. EL]
 
We had dinner each night in Cumberland, only six miles away. For a variety of reasons, no dining choices to recommend, though I suspect there are some.However, a discovery (at least for me). At an Italian restaurant with more pretension than performance, we were introduced to 'processed calamari.' ...

It was an appetizer described only as calamari. On arrival we saw what looked like oversized fish sticks. Nothing wrong with it,  just blah. The waiter explained (too late) that they received it in a slab (presumably frozen) and cut it to size, then deep fried. Why anyone would do this to calamari is beyond me. Maybe a way of dealing with the tougher body section.

Coincidentally, my son-in-law had 'calamari steaks' in Monterey the same week. Sounds like the same product sliced differently.

Here's one for your Top Ten Strange Combination of Specialties. The kids had a hankering for ribs, and a joint downtown was recommended. When we got there we discovered it also fancied itself a crab house. No blue crabs available (maybe too early in the week), but it did have king crabs. Guess what both kids devoured. [My wife] and I enjoyed the ribs. The place is named the Crabby Pig and sells a T-shirt with its logo. Bought one for myself. There are those who would think it's appropriate."

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:58 PM | | Comments (25)
        

Comments

I've had calamari steaks. Sounds like the same thing. They aren't horrible if you tart them up properly.

Crabby Pig, huh? We were in Rehoboth recently and noticed a place called Pig & Fish--somehow we weren't tempted. We did salute "Crabby Dick's" as one of the worst names for a restaurant ever, though.

Eewwww!!!!!

Is it my personal perception; have the posts drifted down with re-invention?

It's been a rough week. EL

Next time drive a little further west to Frostburg and eat at Giuseppe's! My sister goes to college there and it doesn't have any pretensions - just good, fresh italian food. It's off of Bowery Street, which is just off the main drag. It's too bad McClive's closed a few years ago, or I could really recommend a great restaurant on Deep Creek Lake.

This topic kind of leads me to a meal I had this weekend at Mamie's Cafe in Aberdeen. This is the operation that used to be in Hamden. The fried chicken was a thing of beauty and the sides more than exceptable. Then we had a seafood platter that included a homemade crabcake, and hand-battered shrimp. These were accompanied by fish and clams that were clearly commercial products, and not exemplary commerial products. This when the menu had loads of fresh fish specials. It just made no sense. Why frozen fish? The scallops were rubbery. We enjoyed the desserts that come included with every meal; that night it was bread pudding and peach cobbler fresh from the oven. It just makes you wonder.

I do so miss Mamie's. Does it still have the Wednesday night lobster special?

OK, so what happened to the Taste section articles on the web site.

Since I only take the Sunday paper, I always read them online on Wednesday or Thursday and, this morning, there is only Rob Kasper's Take Out column.

Where's EL's column and the other features?

Ditto to Joanna's recommendation of Guiseppe's. I grew up in Frostburg, and have eaten there many a time. I always throw it out as a dinner option whenever I go back for a visit.

Frostburg used to have this great little place in the old rectory called the Tombstone Cafe. I would often stop by on my trips out west for some gnocchi and a bone chiller (iced coffee).

Federal Hill Jim:

What what the name of the Italian place in Cumberland? Was it Ristorante Ottaviani? Puccini?

Having lived in the Bay Area (CA that is) for a number of years and having had "Calamari Steak" not enough times, I can tell you that it is most delicious. Usually pan fried - very quickly in a light egg batter, it is most tender, flavourful and one of my most favorite foods. However, I have yet to find anything that even resembles that out here on the wrong coast. ( I am from Baltimore and relish out local seafood, but Calamari Steaks are best from the left coast.)

Unfortunately (or fortunately for the locals) some foods just no not "move" well - for example - Green Chile from New Mexico, is best only in New Mexico.

It was Puccini. All around disappointment, though it was recommended to us by locals as a pizza place. We should have followed that advice. We tried to dine at Ottaviani, but on a Monday when it was closed.
As for Frostburg, I understand it has a very good French restaurant too. But it was a bit far with two grandchildren in tow, and I am leery of driving that distance after a half bottle of wine.

Yet another vote for Frostburg, which I get to once or twice a year. Tombstone was great the last time I was there, 18 months ago. I hope nothing has happened to it. Ditto the French restaurant, which I recall has some pretty good seafood as well, making me wonder about the ambiguity of the punctuation in the Crabby Pig's webline: "we are the only fresh seafood restaurant in Allegany County, also serving handmade BBQ pork sandwiches & Baby back ribs ..."

The steakhouse on the south side of I-68 just before you enter Cumberland used to be terrific. Last March I noticed that the old sign was gone and that the sign at the next door pizza place had changed, so I can't vouch for the enterprise anymore.

The best calamari is at Ottaviani's, the one that is sauted in red wine sauce, yummo!!!!! Just had it last night again. Yummo! Dark rich sauce with 4 slices of bread in the sauce also, to soak up what was left, yummo!

MD Canon, Tombstone and JB's Steakhouse are gone...and both locations are now pizza places.

JB's was very good and very affordable. You could get a prime rib, salad, baked potato and a bloody mary for about $20.

I really loved camping at Rocky Gap State Park, but if there's any sites left, all the good ones got taken over by the golf course. While I play golf, I hear that course is very challenging (hard to play).

I haven't posted much because at work, I was at a conference and at home, my internet connect was down. Darn Comcast, even down here.

I had trouble finding this blog too today.

Au Petit Paris is the French restaurant in Frostburg. Terrific food, fantastic service, good wine list.

I have to agree re: Puccini's. Very disappointing, especially because it has so much potential (great atmosphere - an old stone/wood house turned into a restaurant). But the food (and I had the pizza!) just didn't live up to the menu desciptions or anticipation. I won't be returning.

Has notperfect been watching too much Rachel? Three "yummo"s and 7 exclamation points in one short post!

Dahlink -- you took the words right out of my mouth. That poster definitely has too much Rachael Ray on the brain.

If noone has advised you of the Best place to Eat West of no where let me tell ya. Hen Hous on old rte 40. By far the absolute best ribs in the world.

If noone has advised you of the Best place to Eat West of no where let me tell ya.

Damn. And I'm going to be just east of nowhere this weekend. So close...

Nowhere is in Nevada?

Sorry, Au Petit Paris is one of the weirdest, possibly the worst restaurant I have ever encountered. Dusty dolls, bizarre lobby, cheap flambe and miserable cut of beef, not to mention all but inedible salad. (How can anybody ruin a salad?) The only "French" accent was the inspiration -- we were told that the owner encountered homesick French soldiers on a base in Texas back in the 1950s, cooking their own Friday night meal. I can understand that, having lived in France. But the point of French cuisine is quality ingredients handled gently but well. With apologies to Frostburg, the flambe cart, tablecloths and faux romance are a sad substitution for a nourishing meal. At any price....For really good food (in a post WorldWarII atmosphere -- ie. real life, and no dusty dolls staring at you), try the Hen House on the old National Highway. The parking lot is so full I mistook it for a used car dealership....And no, I don't work for the Hen House. I'm just an occasional visitor to Western Maryland in perpetual search of a tasty meal. At any price.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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