Goodbye to Martick's
If you haven't read Dan Rodricks' lovely column in today's paper yet, you may not know that Martick's Restaurant Francais is closed. Morris Martick, owner and head chef, says he's had enough. "I've lost my enthusiasm. My spirit is broken. At 86 and a half, who needs the headache."
When I heard the news yesterday, I gave him a call. I'm very sentimental about the place because it's where my husband and I had our first anniversary dinner.
Other highlights: ...
* When I told an older friend we had had a very good meal there, he laughed and said his 16-year-old son, who was working at Martick's that summer, had actually cooked it for us.
* Once when a friend and I were having a girls night out at Martick's, the kitchen sink flooded (the kitchen was upstairs) and water and part of the ceiling came down on our table.
* It was the first place I had profiteroles, those lovely little cream puffs stuffed with ice cream and drizzled with chocolate sauce.
Don't be fooled by the fact that Martick's answering machine is still taking reservations. Morris told me Baltimore schools chief Andres Alonso had just left a reservation on the machine and Morris had had to call him back to tell him the restaurant was closed for good.
"I don't have any staff," he said, "and I don't have any food."
The precipitating factor seems to have been the city's requirements for exterior improvements, which Morris said would cost him $30,000 or $40,000. But when I asked him if that was somehow taken care of would he consider reopening, he said no.
"My age is against me."
(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer)








Comments
Oh, no!! We were planning on going this weekend. It is a huge loss to the city and to all of us who loved the amazing food and the eccentric atmosphere.
And I actually read the Rodricks' post that is linked to above - the first I've read since the initial posts asserting his outrage over the Marc Steiner ouster suddenly disappeared.
Posted by: Rosebud | August 14, 2008 7:35 AM
I'm glad we went to Martick's again in December.
Dan Rodricks talks more about it in his blog today, but read it quickly. Dan doesn't seem to get the "log" part of blog, and is prone to rearranging, altering, and deleting blog entries after the fact.
Posted by: Hal Laurent, VoR | August 14, 2008 9:24 AM
Oh no! A friend and I were there in April, determined not to miss it before it was gone. But I haven't had the bouillabaisse yet. Say it ain't so!
Posted by: KristinB | August 14, 2008 9:59 AM
Truly a HUGE loss to Baltimore dining!! First Zodiac, and now this! Morris,thank you,thank you,thank you for many great meals! Enjoy your well deserved retirement!
Posted by: Don | August 14, 2008 10:34 AM
Don't bother posting on Rodrick's blog. He will delete your entry if it doesn't exalt him or his topic. I would also suggest not reading it since the comments are cherry-picked and thus it represents nothing but his ego.
Posted by: Owl Meat Gravy | August 14, 2008 10:43 AM
Once again a restaurant owner has cited the city of Baltimore as one of the reasons for closing. Joy Martin did so last week in announcing the closing of the Zodiac. When is the city going to start supporting entrepreneurial restaurant owners who don't fit into the mainstream's idea of perfect but are what made Baltimore the quirky fun place it used to be???? And they both had great food. Wherever the BDC sets it sights, look out. Now the west side and Station North have lost two well-liked businesses whose owners decided city harassment in the name of improvement just wasn't worth the trouble.
Posted by: ksm | August 14, 2008 10:43 AM
I am so glad that I at least got to eat here. The place had a charm all it's own and Mr. Martick sure knows how to cook. Truly a Baltimore institution and a darn shame the city pushed him out--it should've done the improvements instead. The best stuff about Baltimore is it's quirkyness, take that away and all we have is Cleveland.
Posted by: Scott Jay Regner | August 14, 2008 11:11 AM
I know it isn't fashionable to say so, but I really don't think the city is going around killing restaurants. All businesses have to deal with street closings, zoning, etc.
I am truly bummed, though. I kept saying I had to go over there one day after work, and never made it.
Posted by: Lissa | August 14, 2008 11:28 AM
The psuedo-psychedelic facade in the middle of a nearly empty city block along with the secret knock give the place the look and feel of a shop for elixirs, potions and oddities. Crossing the threshold into what often seemed like a time portal just added to the effect.
The ride that was Martick's began before they even took your ticket.
Now some mid level functionary feels the need to pick on an old man.
Your tax dallors at work.
Posted by: rick | August 14, 2008 11:50 AM
Wow, we went there on Saturday. The waitress told us it might be the last night they were open, but I thought she was just being dramatic.
And Zodiac closed? Damn.
Posted by: Eric | August 14, 2008 12:05 PM
While it is indeed sad about Martick's (especially since I never got around to going) is that I doubt anyone will step up to even attempt to start another place like his.
Posted by: bryanintimonium | August 14, 2008 1:08 PM
The Baltimore Office of Commotion, I mean Promotion, should fix up the exterior as a special tourism site. Zodiac too.
Posted by: chowsearch | August 14, 2008 1:20 PM
Here's Jim the Contrarian (or Unduly Optimistic for Once) again:
Morris always takes a long vacation at this time of year that lasts longer than he originally said. Last year (or was it two years ago?) his two-week vacation lasted at least a month. He made noises about not reopening. He had fired everyone before leaving, and it took him months to reopen. Let's keep our hopes up.
Posted by: Federal Hill Jim | August 14, 2008 1:52 PM
Don't feel so sorry for Joy Martin. ... She had to close The Zodiac? I'll bet the Club Charles is still going strong and has been a huge cash cow for the Martin family for decades. Why close one and not the other if the reasons she gave for closing The Zodiac are honest. Gee where will Battle go to eat, get drunk and pick up women now.
Posted by: Jeanne Lefko | August 14, 2008 1:54 PM
I'll bet something takes Zodiac's place lickety spllit. Just a feeling. Has anyone ever given the true reasons for closing any restaurant?
Posted by: Owl Meat Gusto | August 14, 2008 6:58 PM
Dan Rodricks' homage to Martick's was touching, but let's be realistic. Mr. Martick might've been ready to retire anyway, and this latest development was the push he needed. He had a great ride, so let's blow him a fond kiss goodbye and let him move into the next phase of his life.
Posted by: Dottie | August 14, 2008 8:24 PM