Chocolate guilt, but not the kind you expect
Why do the most seemingly harmless shortcuts always come back to bite you on the backside?
Case in point: the photo I posted with today's Top Ten Restaurant Chocolate Desserts. It was from a story that ran in the Los Angeles Times in May, but I just liked it a lot. And I figured it was unlikely that we actually had photos of any of the desserts on my list.
Then I got this e-mail from Katie: ...
Hi Elizabeth,
So I'm 6 months pregnant and ran across your article on the top ten restaurant chocolate desserts. I am about to call my husband and make him run out and get the dessert in the picture (the one in the white cup.) Which dessert is this on the list?
Arrrggghhh. Here this poor mother-to-be (it's not fun being pregnant in July) is craving those lovely Italian frozen puddings, coviglia al caffe, and I had to break it to her that her husband can't buy it for her. It's not one of the desserts on the list.
However, I did find the recipe, from the story by Amy Scattergood and Donna Deane. Maybe her husband will make it for her.
Here it is:
Coviglia al caffe
Total time: 30 minutes, plus freezing time
Servings: 10
Note: Adapted from Cucina del Sole by Nancy Harmon Jenkins. "Coviglia should not be frozen hard," she writes. If you must keep them in the freezer longer than 2 to 3 hours, transfer them out of the freezer and into the refrigerator so they loosen up before serving.
1 cup milk
2 teaspoons very finely ground espresso coffee (freshly ground)
2 teaspoons flour
1/2 cup sugar
4 egg yolks
1 1/4 teaspoons vanilla extract, divided
1/2 cup strong brewed black coffee
1 1/2 cups whipping cream, divided
2 egg whites
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
Grated bittersweet chocolate for garnish
1. In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk until it is just hot to the touch, but do not let the milk come to a boil. Keep warm.
2. In a small bowl, combine the ground espresso and flour, tossing with a fork to mix well. Set aside.
3. In a mixing bowl, add the sugar to the egg yolks and beat until the mixture is light-colored and thickened. Continue beating as you slowly pour in the warm milk. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla, the coffee and the mixture of ground espresso and flour, beating constantly.
4. When everything is well-combined, transfer the mixture to a heavy saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens to a creamy consistency. Note that it's important to watch the mixture and stir constantly because if it comes to a boil, it will curdle as the eggs start to cook. (If that starts to happen, immediately pull the pan off the heat and cool it by setting the base of the pan in cold water. Strain the mixture to get rid of any curdled/cooked bits and continue with the remainder.) In the end, the mixture will thicken to a custard and coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
5. Beat 1 cup of the whipping cream in a chilled bowl to soft peaks, then fold the whipped cream into the coffee mixture. Rinse the beaters and beat the egg whites to stiff peaks; fold into the coffee cream.
6. Pour into a glass bowl and freeze about 1 hour, then stir the mixture, which should be half-frozen. Divide into espresso cups and return to the freezer until almost frozen, an additional 2 to 3 hours.
7. Whip the remaining cream together with the powdered sugar and remaining vanilla to soft peaks. Spoon a small dollop of whipped cream onto each serving and sprinkle lightly with bittersweet chocolate. Serve immediately.
Each serving: 207 calories; 3 grams protein; 13 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 16 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 133 mg. cholesterol; 39 mg. sodium.


Comments
No good deed goes unpunished.
Posted by: Robert (the Single One) | July 1, 2008 6:04 PM
A chef friend was at the fancy foods show in NYC yesterday and said that there were tons of chocolatiers there with the most amazing products. And also talked about something called peanut powder where the oils have been removed. Essence of peanut.
Posted by: fairfax | July 1, 2008 9:30 PM
RtSO - one of my favorite statements - so true, so true!
Posted by: Joyce W. | July 2, 2008 5:29 AM