Next Tuesday's Top Ten: Soul Food Restaurants?
Here's another possibility for next Tuesday's Top Ten: soul food restaurants. Consumer blogger Liz Kay suggested it. Here's what she said:
Here's one that may span the city-county divide well. I think it's hard to find good soul food within the city. The few places that open do not stay open long --- Shamdanai's chicken and waffles closed in a minute. The chef has already left Night of the Cookers. For a while there was Heaven's Gate, a cafeteria on North Ave. run by a church, but that's closed now. And I'm not sure Timothy Dean is soul food ... I always thought it was upscale American.
There are some new possibilities in the city, such as Darker than Blue and that place on 25th St. and Calvert, but I've heard that the best options are in the county, on the west side. I'd be eager to hear what the Sandbox recommends ...
First of all, we'd have to define soul food. Anybody want to take a crack at it?
I think Casey Jenkins of Darker Than Blue wouldn't be happy to have his place described as a soul food restaurant. "Southern cooking" seems to be the preferred term -- the current way of saying, "I have the comfort food you know and love like fried chicken, corn bread and greens, but I'm less ethnic-centric and more upscale than just that."
(Janelle "Big Mamma" Robinson, the soul food chef at M & J's. Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)
Comments
Eden's Lounge
Posted by: RJ | July 29, 2008 11:20 AM
I don't really know what the difference is between Southern cooking and Soul Food. To me, they seem to diverge at chittlins (sp?) but overlap at fried chicken and greens? I heard that there's a great Soul Food restaurant in Randallstown next to where the Giant used to be but I haven't made it there yet.
Posted by: Joyce W. | July 29, 2008 12:05 PM
There is a new soul food restaurant in Owings Mills on Owings Mills Blvd called Grannys that you might want to check out. I was there recently on a Sunday afternoon and the food was pretty good. Lovely restaurant, nice atmostphere and a line to get in!
Posted by: BmoreMan | July 29, 2008 12:23 PM
Do Lake Trout and Fried chicken places qualify for Soul Food? I think Granny's in Owings Mills could qualify and they do have very good food served in large quantity. Excellent chicken and waffles and fried catfish.
Posted by: Elite Elephant Lover | July 29, 2008 12:48 PM
Darker than Blue was wonderful the first couple of times I went there for lunch, but when five of us went two weeks ago I was disappointed. A Mini Southern Platter had a piece of boneless fried chicken breast, yams, spinach and mac & cheese. The sides were okay but the chicken breast was really dry and the crust seemed off. In fact, it wasn't at all greasy, making me wonder whether it was actually baked (or reheated in an oven) in order to keep the fat level low. Three out of five of us ordered it (we were, in fact, looking for a southern/soul food fix) and all three of us had the same opinion. The other two had salmon and were quite pleased with it.
Since DtB is more or less in my office neighborhood, I really want them to do well and be here a long time. It is not a good sign when something this iconic is disappointing.
Posted by: MD Canon | July 29, 2008 2:04 PM
I would say that any place that sells lake trout - using that name - can call it self a soul food place. Fried Chicken maybe yes or maybe not. If the chicken is served with waffles then it probably is. Another sure bet for soul food is hog maw, which I keep on wanting to try at lexington market but I never get up the nerve to try.
Posted by: Robert of Cross Keys | July 29, 2008 10:20 PM
When y'all say "lake trout" are you talking about macinaw? I sure don't associate "lake trout" and "southern cooking" in my mind.
Posted by: Bucky | July 30, 2008 8:35 AM
Bucky -- "lake trout" is a generic term for any deep-fried, breaded filleted fish sold in Baltimore restaurants, usually in a sandwich. For a better explanation, see this explanation from one of EL's fellow Sun bloggers.
Posted by: hmpstd | July 30, 2008 11:00 AM
Thanks, hmpstd. That clears it up for me.
Posted by: Bucky | July 30, 2008 11:36 AM
Caribbean carryout on Lexington Street has large portions and serves 'soul food' as well as caribbean favs like jerk, goat, red snapper and oxtails. I can't really think of any sit down restaurants though.
Posted by: Greedy Girl | July 30, 2008 12:55 PM