Both my wife and I had the same reaction to your review of the Oregon Grill. As one of the area's old standbys with a well-credentialed new chef, you wanted to like it a lot. But you had sufficient reservations -- particularly with the specials -- to temper your enthusiasm. That may not thrill the management of a restaurant where it's easy to run up a $200 tab for dinner for two with wine plus tip. But it's the sort of candor that Sun readers find so valuable, particularly in comparison with a few slicker publications that never met a restaurant they didn't like.

Thanks very much. EL

EL - do you know exactly when the chef changeover happened? I went to the Oregon Grille back in March, and I'm wondering if I caught the tail end of the old regime, or the beginning of the new.

Either way, it was my first visit there and I was a little bit underwhelmed. Overall, the food was good, but not "one of the most expensive restaurants around" good - and our service was spotty. To be fair, I had very high expectations, but I didn't think they were unreasonable.

I think that was the tail end, but I'm not absolutely sure. EL

I agree- I would want to "test the waters" and see if another person has bad service. 1 time of bad service doesn't make me not want to go again- but 2 times makes me consider it and I may not go again

Elizabeth, In your article you make it seem as though the Soft Shell Crab Dish is a Sabo Creation. When in fact it is not. Mark Henry has been doing the Zuccini and Mustard Buerre Blanc for years. If you dont mean that it is a Sabo creation, OK, other wise, tisk tisk, on not doing your research.

I assumed it was because it was a special and not on the regular menu, and fit his definition of lighter food. If that's not the case, thanks for letting me know. I have to be very careful not to ask too many questions when I'm reviewing because I don't want to draw attention to myself. My objective is to stay anonymous if I can. EL

I had been waiting for yesterday's review because I had never been to the Oregon Grille. One of the reasons for that was stories about the staff being a little pretentious and that they often seemed to have some preconceived notions about customers who did not fit some stereotypical notions they had. I was pleased that you did not indicated that the service had been anything but professional.

Your review reinforces my idea that the appetizers in many restaurants provide the best the chef has to offer. Husband and I have taken to ordering several appetizers and soup and/or salad, dessert and calling it a day.

TOTALLY unrelated to food ... What, only white lawn jockeys in the picture? Lawn jockeys as ornamentation are a real minefield of semiotics, eh? I wonder how many of them have had their visages made PC (i.e., painted white), which is problematic since real jockeys come in all shades. The lawn jockey really is a weird symbol to begin with. Why is he on your lawn and not in a stable or on a horse? Why is he holding a lantern? Doesn't a dual array of them imply that you are the horse? Semioticians want to know.

I was a little surprised by the lawn jockeys and their implications, too. I wonder if they paint them with the colours of local stables?

Hey OMG, I also was staring in wonder at all those lawn jockeys thinking: That's really goofy. Are they being funny? No, probably no irony there. All look very perky, so probably all have newly-painted Crayola "Flesh" faces. Why rocks on one side and mulch on the other? Did they like the look? Run out of money? Decide that weeding rocks was a pain? Do they put Santa hats on them for the holidays?

Your answer to Yup raises an intriguing question. How can a restaurant critic remain anonymous -- yet still ask questions and sample enough dishes to write a fair review? Ex-NY Times reviewer Ruth Reichl, for example, used to totally change her appearance, wardrobe and personality, masquerading as everything from a bag lady to an elderly suburban matron. Sometimes, she found that it was difficult to shake the imposture. Her false persona refused to leave even after she doffed the costume. I doubt that you go that far. But as someone who stays in contact with restaurant owners and chefs to write Table Talk and this blog, how do you keep from being reocognized and awarded special treatment that could skew a review?

Well, for one thing, I never do anything in person (in the way of interviewing). And sometimes I'm talking to an owner but sometimes a manager. Also I think in Reichl's day, newspaper critics had a lot more power, so a disguise was more necessary. I think these days restaurant owners have bigger things to worry about than a visit from a critic every five or six years. I can count the times I was sure I'd been recognized on the fingers of one hand. EL

Are the lawn jockeys intended to impart an air of faux sophistication to the Oregon Grille, as with the "21" Club in Noo Yawk?

From your review "It also means that the pace will be leisurely, although not slow. The server, for instance, will wait for you to ask for menus."

I've enjoyed many meals at upscale restaurants. But I admit if the maitre d' failed to leave menus at the table upon seating I would be confused. Of course I would ask the server immediately so I could begin perusing the menu. To me not leaving the menu upon seating seems odd.

It was much more the practice years ago, when people wanted to have several cocktails before they thought about food. Or, of course, the maitre d' could have forgotten this time. :-) EL

I have never done this, but it would be fun to pretend to be a restaurant critic and see if service changed. And by pretend, I mean, furtively write notes and then awkwardly conceal them quickly. And ask weird critic-like questions that EL would never ask. I'm never going to do it, but it's a fun little play that I just had in my head. And ... scene!

We go to Oregon Grille only for VERY special occasions, but every time the food is wonderful and the service is impeccable. Maybe I'm not as much of a "foodie" as some of the Sandboxers, but I'm a VERY good cook, and I've never been dissatisfied with anything I've had at OG. I think Elizabeth's review was spot-on.

Perhaps they should replace the lawn jockeys with a few rows of garden gnomes....everyone loves gnomes.

Living in a multi-racial neighborhood, I have to admit that the first time I saw a white lawn jockey inthe front yard of an African American neighbor, I really did laugh out loud, since I assumed it was a joke.

I was never sure why they were chosen to light the path at Oregon Grille.

I have to give the new chef Sabo some credit. You need to see that he is taking over a kitchen that Mark Henry had run for over 11 years. To move into a spot like that and take such a poor review from you, purely based on a few specials you happened to see, (and didn't even order)...Well I wish him all the best. After seeing some of the other restaurants he worked in, I doubt he cooks poorly, Most chef's would have changed over the the menu completly, but he has brought in is ideas step by step, easing everyone in slowly to his style of cooking.
Maybe you should open your palate and try something new on the menu instead of being so narrow minded as to only eat the dishes of Mark Henry. Mark has retired...deal with it.

We ordered the specials. EL

RoCK wrote garden gnomes....everyone loves gnomes.

Well, maybe not everyone, RoCK. Remember the garden gnome dispute in The Full Monty?

This reminds me of my old neighborhood, where one family put out a really tacky caroler figure at Christmastime. The caroler made appearances all over the neighborhood (not always appreciated by the recipients).

I have no problem with trying out a new chef ("Mark has retired...deal with it.") and I'm trying to remain open-minded about the "drink incident"; but the lack of damage control on the part of the restaurant surpises me. Also the lack of advertising altogether which suggests an arrogance to me, that I'm not sure I wish to encounter. Maybe I'm just looking too critcally, but the idea that a restaurant can just rest on the laurels of the past annoys me.

Ah, but Joyce, you must not listen to Ron Smith on WBAL radio. I think that must be the only advertising that The Oregon Grille believes in.

'Also the lack of advertising altogether which suggests an arrogance to me'. That is an interesting assessment. It seems to me Oregon Grille is one restaurant people love to bash or ignore (critics included). Yet the restaurant flourishes. They have attempted multiple times (unsuccessfully, due to zoning restrictions) to expand. The only people supporting the restaurant are those who matter - the paying customers. Perhaps that's why they can afford to appear 'arrogant'.

I'm not sure what critics you're referring to, but I've never given it fewer than three stars in any category that I remember, and sometimes more. It always makes Baltimore Magazine's Top Restaurants lists. Zagat's reviews are very positive. But because it's so expensive I certainly am more critical about things that could be improved. It's a very good restaurant; I'm sorry if that wasn't clear in my review. EL

Based on the review I certainly am not inspired to run down there and drop a couple of hundred on dinner. Not much bad was said but not much glowing praise either. I do have problems with restaurants that sit on the East Coast and think they have to import fish from Australia. Weird. It's like serving New Zealand lamb. Why when there is such great lamb available either from Colorado or from local purveyors do some people think they have to import it? By the way where does the Oregon Grille get their lamb? Anybody know?

Sorry, EL, my comment was not directed at you. In fact I thought your review was fair. I do remember on several occasions when they were not mentioned in the dining issues of the Baltimore Magazine. On the subject of being expensive, I don't think it's that simplistic to label restaurants. Personally, I think most high end restaurants are equally expensive. I guess it has to do with what you're getting that can't easily be compared to what you get in a 'lesser' restaurant. I was at a restaurant in Vegas once and was literally shocked and speechless when looking at the menu. I would call that very expensive.

Good point. And you're right. I just checked Baltimore Magazine's Best Restaurants issue, which published in March, and the Oregon Grille isn't in it. I'd put it in for the terrace alone. EL

RoCK -- how would you know from garden gnomes? Are they even allowed in the Village of Cross Keys? Or did Jim Rouse overlook gnomes when he drew up the covenants?

Before there was Stepford, there was Columbia; and before there was Columbia, there was Cross Keys.

New Zealand lamb is tastier and more ethically raised and butchered than US lamb from most commercial farms (not all, granted). Godzone's meat inspection is actually effective, too, unlike ours.

I love to buy local. I do it whenever I can and the quality is there. But, if it is a choice between NZ lamb and commercial US lamb in the freezer case of whatever grocery store I can walk to, I'll take the Kiwi lamb.

We returned to the Oregon Grille last night for the first time since the change-over. The service was a little too leisurely (we got the impression they were short-staffed the night after Christmas). The food was highly satisfactory, and seemed lighter than on previous visits. My sister always likes to get a serving of creamed spinach for the table. This year there was little to no cream--it was more like very fresh sauteed spinach. Still not cheap, especially the wines, but a great selection. We think it is perfect for a very special occasion.