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June 30, 2008

Dogwood is closed -- but just for vacation

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Not to worry. Dogwood in Hampden is closed, but only this week for a summer holiday.

When it reopens on July 7 for lunch, it will have a new summer menu, a redesigned Web site and some new specials at the Dogwood Bar.

For a restaurant to take a vacation seems so Parisian to me. I'm surprised more places don't close in the summer temporarily for the needed R & R, but I guess in this economy it would be an iffy thing to do. At least I don't know of any others around here that go on summer vacation.

(Photo courtesy of Dogwood) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:37 PM | | Comments (7)
        

Renee at Donna's

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I hear that Renée Zellweger was spotted at Donna's at Cross Keys over the weekend. She sat at the bar to eat her beet salad, and ordered a feta salad to go.

What I can't figure out is why she ended up at that particular Donna's. She can't be staying at the Cross Keys hotel, can she?  My One and Only, her movie, is being shot in and around Baltimore through July.

Sorry, guys, I know it's immature of me; but I like celebrity sightings. And I like knowing what they order when they eat at a local restaurant.

 

(AP photo) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:48 AM | | Comments (24)
        

The doggy bag

When we had dinner with my 93-year-old mother-in-law this weekend, she asked for a doggy bag. That was somewhat surprising because she hadn't ordered anything. She doesn't eat much, just nibbles off our plates. But my husband hadn't finished his coleslaw, and she told the server she wanted to take it home.

That was also surprising because she had complained that it wasn't very good. But she said she was going to chop it finer and add mayonnaise and seasonings.

As far as I know... 

...in the eight years she's lived in her retirement community she's never turned on her stove, let alone chopped cabbage. I'm not sure she even likes coleslaw or has mayonnaise.

What is it about leftovers at a restaurant? For her, I think it's living through the Depression. She just can't waste food. But I don't understand why the rest of us get doggy bags for leftovers we know we're probably not going to eat. It's my mother's definition of leftovers, something you leave in your refrigerator three days and then throw out. But in my mother-in-law's case it's more like two weeks until I throw it out.

I hate the recent trend of the server's bringing the container to your table and you do the boxing up. I've heard people defend it, saying they don't want someone else touching their food; but it was prepared in the same kitchen that would be boxing it up. I hate to wax nostalgic, but I miss the days when restaurants would present leftovers to you in a foil swan.

And don't get me started about servers who do pack up leftovers but then bring the containers to the table before you've finished your meal and there's nowhere to put them except on the floor.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:40 AM | | Comments (30)
        

June 29, 2008

Next Sunday's review

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Next Sunday I review the Oregon Grille in Cockeysville, which has a new chef after more than a decade. By chance, Dan Thanh featured the restaurant in her consumer column today. I can't imagine why what she describes ever became an issue, but I'd be interested in your take on it.

 

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:02 PM | | Comments (31)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Sunday shopping

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Summer is further along than I thought. I guess it was missing the last two weekends  because I was away on vacation, but going to the market under the viaduct this morning I was amazed at how much more good stuff was available.

And sad because this is the next to the last weekend for Queen Anne cherries, according to Dave Reid (that's his back to us).

I didn't expect to find Middle River corn today, the first of the season, and I got peaches, apricots, blueberries, greens, spinach, beans  and... 

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...baby squash to make squash casserole out of with onion, butter, cream or milk, eggs and bread crumbs.

I asked the woman at Brown's Cove Farm where I got the squash what time they opened because I was there at 7:15 a.m. and a lot of people were already leaving with full shopping bags.

She said they start setting up before 6 a.m. but would sell to customers even then. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:03 AM | | Comments (11)
        

June 28, 2008

What to do with the strawberry ice cream

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The problem with buying an ice cream flavor that no one will eat is that, well, nobody else eats it so it sits in the freezer staring at me every time I open the door.

However, I decided to go ahead and do next Tuesday's Top Ten on restaurant chocolate desserts, and as I was going through our archives for a photo, I came upon this one. Store-bought cookies. Chocolate sauce. And STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. Now all I have to do is make chocolate sauce.
In honor of this discovery, I'm going to share my recipe for Mary Gibson's Chocolate Sauce with you: ...

 

Mary Gibson's Chocolate Sauce

Melt:

2 squares unsweetened chocolate

1/2 stick butter

2 tablespoons corn syrup

1/8 teaspoon salt

Add:

3/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup milk

Bring to boil, stirring constantly 1 minute

Off heat, add 1 teaspoon vanilla

(Los Angeles Times photo by Liz O. Baylen)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 PM | | Comments (13)
        

Saturday morning musings on comments

Federal Hill Jim sent me an e-mail wondering why I hadn't published his comment under Keep Off the Grass when there were so many more inflammatory comments that I had published. I wrote back and told him I hadn't killed any comments in recent memory. That got me to wondering if anyone else's comments had disappeared.

Also as regular readers know, the Dining@Large specialty is not to stay on topic, and some of the most interesting discussions have nothing to do with the original post. For instance, ...

...this astounding assertion under The Bacon Flowchart:

Molasses improves any dessert.

ARE YOU PEOPLE OUT OF YOUR MINDS. Now if you had said chocolate, or ice cream, or almond extract or almost anything but molasses, I would have gone along with it for the sake of argument.

And please understand, I'm from the South. I love molasses, but this is unconscionable.

Finally, I've gotten several good tips in comments about openings and closings, including Mari Luna in Pikesville; but of course I didn't write them down because it's so easy to remember them and sift through 10,000 comments to find them again, so please feel free to repost them below.

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:22 AM | | Comments (40)
        

June 27, 2008

Woodberry Kitchen's font, not food, makes the NYT

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A couple of people e-mailed me this link to a story in yesterday's New York Times about, of all things, custom fonts. Baltimore's Woodberry Kitchen was the lead.

I guess it's better to be known nationally for your fonts than nothing, on the assumption that any publicity is good publicity.

As always, when you finish reading, please come back. The Powers That Be don't like me sending you to another newspaper. 

(Kenneth K. Lam/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:38 PM | | Comments (8)
        

The world's most expensive burger

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The world's most expensive burger, produced by Burger King in a limited edition, sold out the two days it was available, according to Forbes.com. The Burger King in question is located in the exclusive South Kensington district of London.

The cost was 95 pounds, about $185.

It was made of massaged Japanese Wagyu beef and seasoned with organic white wine and pink Himalayan rock salt. Its ingredients came from seven different countries.

I'd like to come up with some clever comment about this, but actually I'm too stunned to think of anything. I mean, Burger King?

(Photo courtesy of Forbes.com)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:33 PM | | Comments (11)
        

The odd wine shop visit

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Last night I stopped at my favorite wine shop and bought a couple of bottles of wine to take to a BYOB restaurant. I had asked for a sauvignon blanc around $10, and the woman who helped me suggested one for $10.99. But when the cashier rang them up, the computer charged me $11.99 each. I pointed out the mistake, the guy went back and checked, and then he gave me the shelf price without argument.

No big deal, except the last time I bought a different bottle of wine at the same shop a couple of weeks ago -- that time out of the refrigerated case -- the same thing happened.

It's the kind of thing you might not notice if you were in a rush, and yet I can't think it was deliberate on the wine shop's part. Too penny ante for a place that lives or dies by keeping regular customers happy so they don't go to the discount places.

Very puzzling.

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:14 PM | | Comments (12)
        

Fireworks and food on the Fourth

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I got a press release yesterday about Pisces' special Fourth of July event. Pisces is the seafood restaurant at the top of the Hyatt Regency. It has one of the best views of the Inner Harbor, so I'm sure the fireworks display will be spectacular from there.

However, this view of the Fourth's fireworks will cost you. ... 

For $139 per person before tax and tip you get a buffet that includes a raw bar, sushi and smoked seafood, lamb and tenderloin carving stations, and a dessert assortment featuring "chocolate mouse martinis." I guess they mean "mousse," but I like the idea of chocolate mouse martinis.

There will also be live entertainment, dancing and a kids buffet. (You'll be glad to know children get in for half price.)

I wouldn't dream of going down to the Inner Harbor on the Fourth of July. I'm not that into crowds. But if you like to and have a restaurant to recommend where you can get a decent meal and see the fireworks, please post below.

(Steve Ruark/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:33 AM | | Comments (21)
        

June 26, 2008

The bacon flowchart

I wonder if there would be any interest in a discussion of the merits of bacon on this blog sometime? Ha ha. Just kidding. Just wanted to get your attention so I could link to the bacon flowchart.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:23 PM | | Comments (60)
        

Free iced coffee

Au Bon Pain locations are offering free iced coffee from 2 p.m. today until closing. There doesn't seem to be a catch. No purchase necessary.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:39 PM | | Comments (3)
        

How local can you go?

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Last night we had dinner at Tapas Teatro before seeing The Visitor at the Charles. (That's why your comments got published in a bunch at the end of the evening. Sorry about that.) Apparently the Karzais, the owners, have bought a farm in Monkton and are growing their own vegetables and herbs, which are featured prominently on the menu.

Years ago there was a French restaurant down in Glen Burnie that had a huge garden next to it. Does anyone remember its name?

This seems to be a trendlet among restaurants, sort of the next step after locavorism.  Maybe they don't all have their own farms, but places like the Chameleon Cafe at least have an herb garden on the side of their building. I know there are others.

I'm not sure there's anything but symbolic value in growing your own herbs and vegetables as opposed to getting them from a local farmer, but it's a pleasing trend anyway. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:08 AM | | Comments (11)
        

Funtastic Thursday: Mystery Menu

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Owl Meat has sent me another Mystery Menu for our amusement and edification.  I'm still stuck on trying to guess where these menus are from, but I suppose the Internet makes that a pretty easy game. Feel free to guess, but please don't cheat by looking it up.

Here we go: ...

"Ever feel this way?  Me too.  So let's pretend we are not just people on sticks meant for the gods' amusement and play Mystery Menu Thursday.

Mystery Menu #1

Vraie tortue claire

Supremês de turbotin à la Walewska

Selle d´agneau à la renaissance

Sauce choron

Céleri à la moelle

Poires cardinal

Friandises

My bad translation:

Tortoise soup consommé

Turbot in a lobster sauce with a garnish

Saddle of veal à la renaissance

Sauce choron

Celery with marrow

Pears cardinal

Delicacies

To repeat the rules: This may be something from the past, present, or future and/or from fiction or reality. 

Tell me what kind of experience you might imagine having here ... who you might meet, what the decor is like, what sort of music or entertainment there might be. 

As always, Mystery Menu is for entertainment purposes only and wagering is strictly forbidden.

Today's prizes include a magical Aztec medallion, air keytar lessons, and a bar of soap made up of 17 tiny pieces of other soaps.  I call it ... Soapapalooza!"

(Photo courtesy of freedigitalphotos.net)

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:58 AM | | Comments (60)
        

June 25, 2008

Keep off the grass

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Do you know how much I hate it when any other part of the paper encroaches on my territory? OK, b (I refuse to put the name in bold as it does; is that childish of me?) isn't exactly part of the paper, but still.

Anyway, b's cover story is on places to eat outdoors. I know that's of interest to many of you, so I feel compelled to link to it. Don't say I don't take care of you.

Would it be childish of me to capitalize the b?

I guess so. 

 

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:28 PM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Outdoor Dining
        

The cheeseburger philosophy

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I never thought about anyone having a cheeseburger philosophy before; but this e-mail just arrived in my inbox from Bucky, and I had to share: ...

Hi...I'm the In-N-Out commenter from your blog.  I did search, as you suggested, and it gives me a hopeful feeling for this world of ours that a real food critic can see the beauty in a simple cheeseburger. 
 
This link will take you to my fundamental cheeseburger philosophy.  (Yeah, I actually have a cheeseburger philosophy...I have no idea about religion or politics and I figure all ethics are situational, but I have managed to formulate a cheeseburger philosophy.)...

 

(Christopher T. Assaf/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:49 AM | | Comments (66)
        

Shallow Thought Wednesday

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I like to think that this Shallow Thought Wednesday was inspired by my trip last week to Tennessee. (After all, the first Cracker Barrel opened in Lebanon, Tenn.)

Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger, Wing and Crab Ball Expert John Lindner has the most unusual friends. ...

 
"Champions of Breakfast

I just learned of an interesting life goal.

A friend of mine, I’ll call him 'Randy' – that’s his name, after all. Retired early (no comment). He and his wife, Terry, are traveling the country in a motor home. When asked about his retirement goals, he jokingly said he wanted to visit all the Cracker Barrel locations across the country. Apparently, he repeated that claim too often and it became a serious quest.

There are 577 Cracker Barrel locations across the country (when does a chain become a blanket?), with more openings planned for this year.

Monday, Randy visited his 52nd CB.

And to think I used to envy him.

What restaurant have I chosen for my post-employment perlustrations?

Chart House.

Yeah, Chart House.

Do better than that."

 

(AP photo) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:50 AM | | Comments (11)
        

June 24, 2008

Strawberry ice cream and hiding food

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Wow. This has never happened before. The half-gallon of ice cream I had put in the freezer early yesterday morning was still there unopened when I got home late last evening.

Of course, it was strawberry. As I was eating it, I thought to myself, "This really --" Oh, sorry. I'm not allowed to use that word.

But the point it, there was still some ice cream left for me. ... 

Do other people have to do this in their families? Do they, for instance, make oatmeal raisin cookies because they don't contain the key ingredient? Do they hide food so it will be there when they need it?

Not that that works in my house. I once bought my daughter a very good chocolate bar when she was coming home for a visit. I didn't want to forget to give it to her, so I said to my husband, "Where shall I put this so she'll be able to find it?"

Without missing a beat he said, "Behind the furnace?" 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:49 PM | | Comments (48)
        

No news on the Velleggia's front

Velleggias.jpgI've been avoiding posting anything about Velleggia's just because I don't really know anything; but Owl Meat, our resident Little Italy expert, has described some strange doings there to me (mostly involving nocturnal construction, or deconstruction). About the only thing I can confirm is that one of Baltimore's dining institutions has been closed for some time now.

Then yesterday Suzanne Loudermilk, a former colleague and now a senior editor at Baltimore magazine, posted a blog item about it saying basically she didn't know anything either. 

And today Bob in Pasadena sent me an e-mail asking, Do you have any idea what's going on?

Er, no. But feel free to post anything you've heard below.

(Photo of crowd watching World Cup soccer at Velleggia's by Kim Hairston/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:36 PM | | Comments (66)
        

Different forks for different folks

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I remember when someone first suggested sushi bars as a Top Ten subject, someone else asked for directions on the proper way to eat sushi. I can certainly do a post on that, but there's so much info on the net it seems somewhat redundant.

I think a more interesting question is should we be eating sushi the way the Japanese in Japan would? It's the same question as Is it important to eat Thai food with a spoon? that we discussed here earlier. ...


Someone made a comment about its being a matter of respect, but I'm not sure. I can't enjoy wedging into my mouth whole the large pieces of sushi you sometimes get in American Japanese restaurants. It would be pretentious, not respectful, of me to do it, and it would probably gross out my dinner companions.

I also can't blame people who aren't comfortable with using chopsticks eating Chinese food with their forks. You could argue that they should learn, but if it's not fun for them, why can't they just eat their sweet-and-sour pork in peace?

(AP Photo/Eating Well Magazine)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:32 PM | | Comments (17)
        

Top Ten Sushi Bars

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All this talk of Panda Gourmet and Sushi Hana has me thinking about sushi.

Tim Zagat of the Zagat Survey has pointed out that Chinese cuisine in the U.S. has stalled while Japanese cuisine continues to do very well. Japanese restaurants are now among the top rated in many cities. (That's certainly true in the Baltimore/Washington guide.) He thinks it's about quality ingredients and "imaginative, healthful preparations."

Also, after a week in Tennessee seafood is mighty appealing. All I've had in that line recently is fried catfish.

Anyway, today's Top Ten Tuesday is favorite sushi bars. I'm a careful sushi eater -- I love it, but ever since a friend almost died a few years ago after dinner at a highly respected New York City sushi restaurant, I'm more cautious.

That doesn't stop me, but I don't eat sushi as often as I used to, so some of these I haven't been to as recently as I would like. Feel free to update or correct me, or post your own favorites below.

Remember, I only have 10 slots here to fill, so if you have a favorite that isn't on the list, please tell us which one you would eliminate to make it fit. ...

* Chiu's Sushi in Harbor East

* Edo Sushi in the Inner Harbor

* Green Leaf in Hunt Valley

* Ikan in Belvedere Square

* Joss Cafe in Annapolis

* Matsuri in Federal Hill

* Minato in Mount Vernon

* Sushi King in Columbia

* Sushi Sono in Columbia

* Tsunami in Annapolis

 

(Photo at Minato by Christopher T. Assaf /Sun photographer)

 

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:07 AM | | Comments (67)
        

June 23, 2008

Neighborhood cooking

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While I was away, Multimedia Editor Extraordinaire Mary Hartney sent me a link to a Slashfood.com post about The Original Baltimore Neighborhood Cookbook. It sells on Amazon for $13.73.

I had never heard of it.

It got such a lukewarm review from Publishers Weekly ("Although [the editors] ladle up some serviceable recipes, this work remains ordinary because it reveals little of Baltimore's unique character") that I'm surprised it was worth a mention on a major food blog not connected to Baltimore. I love neighborhood cookbooks, but this isn't one I'm going to rush out to buy.

But maybe you have it and can convince me otherwise. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:04 PM | | Comments (37)
        

More thoughts on food on a stick and a weird food

SlowMelt.jpgI'm still stuck on this whole food on a stick and summer thing. As I was gazing longingly in the ice cream freezer at the supermarket early this morning -- I've learned I can only buy strawberry if I want it to last more than a day in my freezer because no one else in my family will eat strawberry. It's certainly not my favorite, but at least it's there when I need it. But that's another story -- I realized I had forgotten to mention ice cream with the hard chocolate shell on it as another example of summer food on a stick.

That may be the longest sentence I've ever written. Sorry. Anyway, ... 

...when I got to work I found an e-mail from consumer blogger Liz Kay about yet another weird food, Slow Melt Ice Pops.

Why is this so disgusting? Popsicles should melt. That's the whole point. The enjoyment is fleeting; grab it while you can. Like the little boy in the photo, we all need a mom to wipe the blue melted stuff off our arm.

So who's going to step up to the plate this time, buy a box, try them and tell us how it went?  I used the store locator on the Web site, and Slow Melts seem to be available at every supermarket in the area.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:04 PM | | Comments (20)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking

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I feel like I've abandoned you this morning. I'm still in vacation mode, I guess, and having trouble doing anything on schedule today.

I'm just proud that I don't have to label this Monday Afternoon Quarterbacking.

Among the many hundreds of e-mails that were in my inbox when I got back was one from Stephanie Charles about my review of Sushi Hana in Lake Falls Village:

You don't have to "guess" why Panda Gourmet closed; you could have asked. This successful Chinese restaurant closed because it's owners reached retirement age, and their children who have professional careers chose not to continue in the restaurant business.

I can't help but wonder why you devoted the entire lead paragraph of your review of Sushi Hana to the Panda speculating that perhaps it was the "quality of the food" that caused it to close. What was the point? ...

Actually I devoted the whole lead paragraph to speculating that there were a number of things that might be the reason it closed: the hidden location, the lack of a liquor license. The point of the lead was that those things are still true. In the past several years whenever I was in there, the Panda was empty except for carryout orders. That's in stark contrast to Sushi Hana's early success.

The owners may have retired, but to me that's not a reason for its closing. If the Panda Gourmet had been as successful as Ms. Charles suggested, my guess is that the new owners would have kept the restaurant as it was. 

I liked the Panda Gourmet, and the owners and staff always seemed really nice. I can see how people who were regulars would feel angry at me for pointing out that maybe the food wasn't the greatest and that toward the end it didn't seem to be doing as well as it had in the past. 

 

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:30 AM | | Comments (8)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

June 22, 2008

No review next Sunday

I'm sitting on the floor of a darkened motel room in Dublin, Va. so as not to wake up my other driver, and I'm wondering if Dublin needs a restaurant critic because I'M NOT GETTING BACK IN THE CAR.

We got a late start yesterday (gee, that's a surprise) and didn't roll in until 10:30 p.m. At that point we simply fell into bed, and as soon as Gailor wakes up we're supposed to hit the road again. This seems a lot worse than our road trip because she hurt her back and I have to do more of the driving.

Luckily there are some really fine eating establishments along I-81 to make me feel better. ...

Anyway, I won't have a review for next week because, as you know, I turn the review in the week before, and I wasn't at work last week. I hope you'll do the reviewing for the next few hours until I get back to Baltimore.

If you went to a restaurant in the last week, tell us where and what you thought. Because I can rarely get anyone to write mini-reviews, just mention one thing you had that you'd recommend (unless you want to say more).

If you went someplace (like Ruby Tuesday) that you don't want the other regulars to know you, who have acted like such a superior and knowledgeable foodie up till now, ate at, just post under a new, temporary user name. 

I'll try to get Gailor to publish comments in the car. Work gave me a laptop with a wonderful mobile broadband card in it, and now that we're traveling through more civilized areas maybe she'll stop making me play the Name the State Capital game and get online for me.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:17 AM | | Comments (32)
Categories: Review Preview
        

June 21, 2008

Next Tuesday's Top Ten

DisneylandI just realized I totally forgot about next Tuesday's Top Ten. That's bad because if I wait until the weekend, some of you might be out having fun instead of sitting at your computer coming up with good ideas for me.

I'm leaning toward Top Ten Chocolate Desserts, I have no idea why, but I'm open to other suggestions. Just post below.

I wish I could come up with something more summery. Maybe the photo will inspire you. 

 

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:42 AM | | Comments (17)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

The virtual market

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Like last week, I'm not around to go to the farmers market and then tell you what I found (which I admit I do somewhat sporadically; hey, it's Saturday).

Gretchen et al. stepped in admirably, and I'm hoping they or others will do so this Saturday.

The idea is that you post a comment about what you found even if it's after the market closes, so people will  be encouraged to go tomorrow even if there isn't time for them to get to the Waverly Farmers Market by noon today. 

 

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:45 AM | | Comments (5)
        

June 20, 2008

Food on a stick

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In honor of the longest day of the year and midsummer, as I like to think of the summer solstice, I want to propose as a topic of discussion food on a stick.
 
Really, is there a class of food that says summer better? Remember how good Popsicles tasted and how some days were orange days and others grape or cherry for no reason that I can remember now?
 
And then... 

...my father used to skewer marinated lamb cubes with green pepper, onion and tomato and grill them on a summer evening. (I shouldn't admit this, but Wishbone Italian dressing makes a perfectly fine marinade, even though I would never put it on a lettuce leaf.)

And then there's the hot-weather street food like chicken or beef satay if you want to get more sophisticated about it. But being here in Sewanee, where we spent every summer (my father was an English professor so he had summers off), mostly reminds me of the popsicles we made ourselves out of lemonade, which we froze in ice cube trays and stuck sticks in when they were almost hard. I can't remember what sticks we used, though. 

 

(Doug Kapustin/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:42 PM | | Comments (38)
        

The Worst Restaurant Parking Award

ParkingProblems.jpgThe best thing about eating out in the Sewanee area is you never have to think twice about parking. More and more when I eat out on my own I choose a restaurant based on how easy it's going to be to park.

I feel sorry for places like the Helmand because of the construction that's been going on seemingly forever along N. Charles Street. Although actually I don't think anything will discourage people from going to the Helmand.

Anyway, I'm sitting  here trying to decide what restaurants in Baltimore have the worst parking situation. Not really but...

 

...in people's perception, so it affects the restaurants. I would guess it's a toss up between the Patterson Park area and around Canton's square.

For me it will always be Harbor East after coming out of dinner at Cinghiale and getting a $27 ticket for being five minutes late. (OK, I should have bought more time out of the machine. Especially since The Sun was paying.) 

But I like the new machines as opposed to meters. It feels like more cars can fit in, although I don't know if that's true or not. The downside is you no longer get the thrill of finding a meter than still has time on it. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:31 AM | | Comments (34)
        

June 19, 2008

Afternoon tea in the chop shop capital of the universe

teasign.jpgI have no idea why it would be common knowledge, but everyone says that Tracy City, Tenn. has more chop shops that anywhere else in the U.S. So you can imagine my surprise when I opened the Sewanee Messenger and found an ad for a new tearoom, Tea on the Mountain, there.

Tracy City is about 12 miles from Sewanee. It has no beautiful old Victorian houses on the main street, so Tea on the Mountain is located in what was originally a car dealership.

While we were having luncheon there yesterday, Gailor kept saying, "I want to go check on the car." ...


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We decided to do lunch, not tea, so as not to spoil our appetites for dinner. Although the dinner options are so grim, maybe we should have.

It was a very strange experience. We had quiche, but one of the options was a crab cake "prepared from fresh lump crab meat; served with aioli sauce and a green salad."

Luncheon started with a scoop of Waldorf salad in a sherbet dish. With your entree you get a choice of a green salad or apricot congealed salad.

The car wasn't missing any parts when we came out. 

quiche.jpg

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:13 PM | | Comments (26)
        

Mystery Game Thursday

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Here I am wide awake in the middle of the night thinking about what is scurrying around in the walls of my bedroom. I'm very much hoping it's mice, which would at least be something familiar.

With nothing better to do I checked my e-mail and found that Owl Meat had sent me another Funtastic Thursday Game, along with the very fine photo to the right.

Maybe I should let him explain: ... 

 

(Photo courtesy of Wm Jas/Flicker.com/FreeFoto.Com)

Ni hou from somewhere in the East. Aren't the Chinese considerate? 
 
On the advice of federal authorities and my personal physician Dr. Bombay, I am hiding out in the Far East this week, away from the soy-stained tendrils of Archer Daniels Midland goons and the sticky-fingered clutch of the Good Humor minions of corporate power.
 
This week's game is Menu Mystery. 
 
A menu will be presented. It may be from the past, present or future. It could be from anywhere in the world. It could be from reality or literature. There are no wrong answers. Your task is to imagine where it should be best placed in the space-time-reality continuum. Give us details about:
 
Restaurant name and logo, location, decor/atmosphere, music (live or recorded), server uniforms/flair, time travel to the past or future if you like, and anything else that you think is interesting. 
 
Just because it may seem like a menu from 1861, doesn't mean it can't be Uncle Abe's Oyster & Wing Log Cabin in the Mall of the Americas. I will even accept: This is the nightmare Rachael Ray will have before she dies of a heart attack in her sleep. Or "Didn't Harrison Ford eat here in Blade Runner?" You get the idea. 
 
As Wittgenstein said, language is like a game, you have to play it to understand it. So, too, is a game like a game. Am I right, JL? (Still owe you a Hegelian Synthe-tini.)
 
You can guess where the actual menu came from, but that's not really the game. I control the menu, but you decide everything else, just be specific. Maybe some famous people go there. Maybe someone was murdered there. Most creative guesses win some awesome Far East gifts and potions.
 
I hope you enjoy this game. I'm trying to switch it up every week. 
 
Hi ho Snickers, away!
 
The Menu
 
First Course
Hors D'Oeuvres
Oysters
 
Second Course
Consommé Olga
Cream of Barley
 
Third Course
Poached Salmon with Mousseline Sauce, Cucumbers
 
Fourth Course
Filet Mignons Lili
Saute of Chicken, Lyonnaise
Vegetable Marrow Farci
 
Fifth Course
Lamb, Mint Sauce
Roast Duckling, Apple Sauce
Sirloin of Beef, Chateau Potatoes
Green Pea
Creamed Carrots
Boiled Rice
Parmentier & Boiled New Potatoes
 
Sixth Course
Punch Romaine
 
Seventh Course
Roast Squab & Cress
 
Eighth Course
Cold Asparagus Vinaigrette
 
Ninth Course
Pate de Foie Gras
Celery
 
Tenth Course
Waldorf Pudding
Peaches in Chartreuse Jelly
Chocolate & Vanilla Eclairs
French Ice Cream

 


 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:49 AM | | Comments (76)
        

June 18, 2008

Who would you take to dinner and where?

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Voodoopork has come up with another intriguing topic for discussion today:
 
Who would you like to have dinner with living or dead, and where would you take them in Baltimore?
 
I would take Mussolini to Sabatino's (for punishment).
 
Harsh, Voodoo. 
 
 
 
(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer) 
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:07 PM | | Comments (47)
        

Shallow Thought Wednesday

I woke up this morning to find The Sun's remote e-mail system down and so no Shallow Thought from Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger, Wings, Crab Balls and Tiramisu Expert John Lindner. I WAS ACTUALLY GOING TO HAVE TO DO MY OWN WORK THIS MORNING.

The only thing I had for you was last night's takeout pizza from Crust, the worse pizza in the universe. What sick mind could conceive of a vegetable pizza that had on top of the standard tomato sauce and mozzarella the following ingredients: sliced tomatoes, artichoke heart leaves, corn kernels, raw slices of old mushrooms and diced raw onion? Gack.

There's a blackboard in the kitchen here with all our restaurant choices on it. Crust has just been crossed off by me.

Anyway, just now the remote mail came back up, so I have John's Shallow Thought for you after all: ... 

Be happier

It's late. I'm tardy again -- this time due to a quantum particle misplacement issue that came up in a multiverse transfer sequence (I was trying to wriggle out of a boring assignment and thought, mistakenly, that hiding out in another dimension would be a good excuse). Part of me was here, but another part, the shallow part natch, was "there" and lost its keys. I know, I know, cheap excuse. But it was the only thing I could come up with that wouldn't burn sick days.

Anyway, all great and expensive (redundant?) pleasures accrue to themselves terms rarely used outside their domains. Foodlove is no exception. And I was trying desperately to think of my favorite ones when I stumbled across a tiramisu and remembered how much I cotton to both the dessert and its name.

Tiramisu sounds like it should be a mountain in Japan, but it's Italian (! – that's for you guys out there), which of course you know.

Also endearing, from Wiki (and news to me): The name Tiramisu is from Italian and means "pick me up" (Tirami su) but can be translated figuratively as "make me less sad/happier." Therefore, what is not to like about tiramisu?

So … I was hoping the Elizabethans would help me remember what my other favorite food terms are. Quick, before I'm fired for dematerializing during business hours. Please make me less sad/happier. It's been a rough week and it's only Tuesday night.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:13 AM | | Comments (21)
        

June 17, 2008

Summer Restaurant Week

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Summer Restaurant Week info is starting to flow across my desk. The dates this year will be July 26 through Aug. 3. Note that for the first time two weekends are included.

Restaurants are still signing up, but so far Abacrombie, Aldo's, Bicycle, Black Olive, Brightons, Brass Elephant, Da Mimmo, Ixia, Sotto Sopra and many others are on board -- some 90 in all. Here's the link to the Summer Restaurant Week Web site.

Menus aren't up yet; they should be posted on or around June 23.

Many places are offering specials in conjunction with the fixed price menu of $20.08 (two courses for lunch) and $30.08 (three courses for dinner). Here are some examples: ... 

* The Black Olive will offer a red or white wine flights featuring three different Greek wine selections. The white wine flight will be $12, the red flight $15.

* Lucy’s Irish Pub & Restaurant will also offer wine pairings with the prix fixe dinner menu for an additional $12 per person.

* Brightons will offer a four-course tasting menu at $45 per person from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.

* Each diner who visits Da Mimmo during Restaurant Week will receive a gift they can redeem on their next visit. The gifts range from a complimentary appetizer, a bottle of wine, or a $100 gift certificate.

(Photo of Ixia's bar by Matthew Paul D'Agostino /Special to the Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Quote of the Week

As our waitress brought us our check, she said, "Feel free to finish your dinners."

StirlingsCoffeeHouse.jpgGailor was so bored yesterday that she make me stop at the Waffle House to resolve our ongoing argument, is margarine or butter served. (They told us it was butter, and to show us handed us an individual tub labeled "buttery spread.")

We are desperate to find a decent place to eat. A couple of our standbys have closed, including the Burnt Wood Roadhouse. I'm refusing to cook.

The best food we've had (other than at very expensive Pearl's the first night) has been at Stirling's Coffee House, which has a good curried chicken salad. It also has the virtue of having a great porch to sit on, where I can look across the street at the most beautiful graveyard in the world, where both sides of my family are buried.

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(Photos of Stirling's Coffee House and the graveyard entrance by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:45 AM | | Comments (15)
        

Top Ten Howard County Restaurants

IronBridgeFood.jpgI'm still smarting from pete's mean comment asking if I can drive, or words to that effect. To show that, yes, I can drive and even more amazingly, there are good restaurants in Howard County that aren't chains, I'm going to post my Top Ten Howard Country restaurants.

Because I'm on vacation, however, I'm not going to do much work here. I list them, you comment on why they're good. OK, if you don't like them, comment on that, too.

Here's my list: ... 

* Aida Bistro in Columbia

* An Loi in Columbia

* Cafe de Paris in Columbia

* Elkridge Furnace Inn in Elkridge

* Great Sage in Clarksville

* Iron Bridge Wine Company in Columbia

* Jordan's Steakhouse in Ellicott City

* Kings Contrivance in Columbia

* Sushi Sono in Columbia 

* Tersiguel's in Ellicott City

(Photo of Iron Bridge rockfish by Steve Ruark/ Special to the Sun)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:12 AM | | Comments (70)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 16, 2008

A culinary tour of Monteagle, Tenn.

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You can't make this stuff up.

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Shan2.jpg

Gatorade.jpg

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(Photos of where to eat in Monteagle, Tenn. by me) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:47 PM | | Comments (12)
        

What's your favorite potato chip?

PotatoChps.JPGI'm posting this and hoping my crack editors will publish your comments so you'll have something to do while I'm having vacation fun this afternoon.

Remember once when I said I could just post one word and say "discuss," and you would take it from there?

Well, a friend recently said he thought the most mundane topics would get the most hits. His suggestions: What's your favorite potato chip? Or alternatively, peanut butter: creamy or chunky?

Discuss. 

(Jed Kirschbaum/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:23 PM | | Comments (90)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking

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This is Saute's Ultimate Meatloaf pictured to the left. Saute is the new bar/restaurant in Canton I reviewed yesterday.

I went almost three weeks ago, so things may have changed by now. Just from the comments under my Next Sunday's Review post, I'm guessing you have plenty to say about the place or my review. If so, please post below.

 

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:37 AM | | Comments (21)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

June 15, 2008

Stick with the pig!

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The whole Piggly Wiggly thing seems to have gotten Voodoo Pork so excited he's sent me lots more posts for this week. Not to mention the fine flying pig photo.

Here's the first of them: ...

What's the weirdest things you have seen customers or servers do in restaurants?  Come on, that's a killer open-ender.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:08 PM | | Comments (15)
        

Next Sunday's review

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Next Sunday I review the new Sushi Hana in Lake Falls Village shopping center. I was so terrified about Neighborhood Rage I placed it in North Baltimore, not Mount Washington or Roland Park.

Sushi Hana is certainly is doing better than its predecessor, Panda Gourmet, did in that spot. Getting a liquor license, which is in the works, will also help.

Look for my review in next Sunday's Arts & Life Today section. 

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:32 AM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Dinner at Pearl's

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We had dinner last night at Pearl's Foggy Mountain Cafe, Sewanee's one fine-dining option. It was a better meal than last year's, and our waitress  came up with the best upselling technique ever.

After she took our order, she said in her wonderful middle Tennessee accent, "I hope y'all will save room for dessert. I'm the pastry chef." Then she described her creations in loving detail. 

Only in Sewanee would a restaurant with entrees in the $20 to $30 range have its pastry chef waiting tables.

As it turned out... 

 

...we didn't have room for dessert, except one of us who wanted a little ice cream with chocolate sauce.

The chocolate sauce was Hershey's, but it was a presentation I'd steal for an easy company dessert (only using better chocolate sauce). It came in a martini glass with a fresh bing cherry on top and a sprig of mint.

(Photo courtesy of Pearl's Web site)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 8:15 AM | | Comments (4)
        

June 14, 2008

Eat in Season Challenge at the Brass Elephant

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As you know if you've been reading regularly, I'm printing the Eat in Season Challenge menus each month. (One restaurant makes the commitment to present a locavore-inspired fixed-price menu for a week once a month.)

The Brass Elephant's turn is happening this month, starting June 17 through June 22.

I hope if any of you go, you'll report in and let us know how the meal was. ...

APPETIZER
Choose One:

“Roseda Farm” Beef Carpaccio
Fried Eggplant, Grilled Bruschetta
Shaved Parmesan Reggiano Cheese
Suggested Wine: Woodhall Wine Cellars, Chambourcin, $9

Warm “Capital Mushroom” Salad
Presented Over Mixed Baby Greens
Topped with a Warm Walnut-Raspberry Vinaigrette
Suggested Wine: Woodhall Wine Cellars, Seyval, $8

ENTREE
Choose One:

“Gunpowder Bison” Osso Bucco
Placed on a Bed of Barley Risotto with Wilted Spinach
Suggested Wine: Woodhall Wine Cellars, Merlot, $10
 
“Springfield Farms” Heritage Chicken Breast
Stuffed with Prosciutto Ham, Pine Nuts
and Sun-dried Tomatoes Presented with Herb Risotto  
Suggested Wine: Woodhall Wine Cellars,
Gunpowder Falls White, $8

DESSERT
“Springfield Farms” Creamy Panna Cotta
with Strawberry and Vanilla Bean Soup
Suggested Wine: Woodhall Wine Cellars,
Late Harvest Vignoles, $7


$35
Three Courses Not Including Wine
 
 
(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:54 PM | | Comments (1)
        

Your virtual market

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Help me out here, folks. I can't go to the Waverly Farmers Market this morning because I'm on the road, headed toward Tennessee, so I need you to post below anything you have for us about what's available today.

Even if you do it after the market closes, people will know what's likely to be at the market tomorrow under the viaduct.

(Algerina Perna/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 AM | | Comments (4)
        

June 13, 2008

The BYOB list

Guillaume has asked for an up-to-date list of BYOB restaurants. I have to hit the road so I can't make one up for him, but you can, and my wonderful editors will happily post all your comments for me.
Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:48 PM | | Comments (29)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

Keeping a BYO bottle cold

WineBottles.jpgI'm curious if people try to keep a bottle of white wine cold when they're transporting it to a restaurant that doesn't have a liquor license -- especially this time of year when you can walk outside your front door and a bottle of wine that was chilled instantly isn't anymore.

Places that are BYOB are often casual ones that serve the kind of food that doesn't need a serious wine. If it's a not-serious white you're bringing, it probably tastes better cold. Twenty minutes in a restaurant's ice bucket would chill a room-temperature bottle, but who wants to wait 20 minutes?

Does anybody bother taking a picnic cooler with ice in the car? Or is that overkill? 

If I go to a BYOB place I usually either just drink something nonalcoholic or drop into a nearby liquor store and get a bottle from its refrigerated case. But it would make more sense to bring something from home.

It feels like I've been reviewing a lot of restaurants this summer that don't have liquor licenses, which is what got me thinking about this.

Also, I interviewed the owner of the Gin Mill recently, who is very proud of...

...his new wine list. He says he has some of the same wines as an upscale restaurant in Fells Point, which I won't name because I don't want to bother to verify it, only his markup is much less.

I've noticed the markup on bottles in restaurants ranges widely; this would be a good place to let us know about restaurants that use some restraint.

 

(Bob Fila/Chicago Tribune) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:32 AM | | Comments (16)
Categories: Wine and Spirits
        

The amazing tale of the Piggly Wiggly bumper sticker

ThePig.jpgYesterday the car next to me in The Sun's parking lot had this bumper sticker on it. If I had been struck by lightning I might have been slightly more amazed.

As you know, I'm leaving today to meet my two brothers in Tennessee for a week. 

The Pig is Piggly Wiggly, a southern chain of food stores. It's my first stop when I get off the highway and head to the place we're staying. A second visit to the Pig is always one of the highlights of the visit, not because it's a good supermarket but in comparison to how exciting the rest of the vacation is.

First of all, why would a car in Baltimore have a Piggly Wiggly bumper sticker? Second, who puts a bumper sticker advertising a supermarket on his car? 

I took this photo with my phone's camera and sent it to Gailor, asking her, "Do you think it's a sign?"

She texted me back: "Of course it's a sign. The question is, What does it mean?"

So young, and yet so wise. ...  

If and when I find out the answer next week, I'll let you know.

I could fool myself into thinking that people wanted to know about my Italy trip, and even my California trips, but it's going to be hard to justify writing entries for a second year about eating out in Sewanee, Tenn.

Here, for instance, is part of an actual e-mail I sent my two brothers yesterday about the week's activities. If you really want to read about any of these restaurants, please go the July 2007 archives (farther down on the page to the right):

...will go to Pearl's Foggy Mountain Cafe Sat. night, and are up for anything the rest of the week: Burnt Food Roadside Inn, Crust Pizza, Smokehouse, Waffle House, Casa Mia of the Flies, Corleone's in Cowan, Papa Ron's in Monteagle...ah, the possibilities are endless.
 

If I feel like writing anything about Tennessee, I will; but otherwise it will be business as usual, with a little help from my friends. This Internet thing is really cool, isn't it? I would like to point out, though, that when I asked for volunteers to do my work for me e-mail me a guest post, only Voodoo Pork came through. However, Owl Meat has promised me a Funtastic Thursday (should it appear on Friday if that's going to be the name?) for next week, and Multimedia John swears he'll have a Shallow Thought Wednesday for me today. 

But it's not too late to help out. For instance, I'm going to post a Virtual Market entry tomorrow, and I hope that any of you who go to the Waverly Farmers Market, or the Sunday market next day, will rush home and post a comment under it telling us what you saw.

Also I'm going to try to come up with some Lazy Day Posts, the kind that say "Rachael Ray. Discuss" and I get 600 comments, each more entertaining than the last. I also need a Lazy Day Top Ten.

Suggestions welcome. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:48 AM | | Comments (47)
        

June 12, 2008

The latest on Dizzy Issie's

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I've been getting worried e-mails from customers of Dizzy Issie's in Remington. Apparently the owner sometimes closes for vacation for a few days, but she always comes back. Now, though, the popular bar been locked up for a longer time than usual, and rumors have been flying.

I know something, but not much: ... 

Dizzy Issie's has been sold, I learned from the liquor board. The new owners are Darlene Basta and Angela Kelly. It may or may not be renamed The Dizz. The owners are in the process of getting a liquor license from elsewhere, which is a little odd, but there seem to be tax issues involved with Dizzy Issie's license.

I have a call in to Ms. Basta, but so far I haven't heard back. 

 

(Karl Merton Ferron/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 PM | | Comments (15)
        

A Chinese restaurant find

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Crowson Guy has put in a major plug for a Chinese restaurant in Odenton called Grace Garden. I know how desperate some of you are for authentic Chinese food, so I thought you'd like to know about it. Plus, he sent me two reviews he posted on Chowhound.com, and you know how much I like mini-reviews.

"If you go, be sure to choose from the traditional Chinese menu, not the crappy Chinese American one," he told me.

Here's what he had to say on Chowhound: ... 

It's 10 at night and I'm again eating the leftovers from our spectacular lunch today at Grace(ful) garden -- Fish noodles like nothing you have had before, delicate squiggles with shards of Chinese sausage, shitake mushroom slices for texture contrast, and fresh cilantro in some bites.ma po tofu, the first I have had that reminds me of being in China, with a fierce bite, soft texture and finished off with the sharp tingle of ma la: Sichuan peppercorns (the chef asked me if I liked them, and was prepared to make the dish milder).More later...

If you can, go with a party so you can sample several items from the amazing 'Traditional Chinese' menu, and the Order In Advance dishes are worth the advance planning. But otherwise, get in the car, travel up I 95 from the DC suburbs, or down 95 from Baltimore and a few miles east on 175 to get a wonderful treat.

 

Tonight, 12 chowhounds and friends had tea smoked duck, peacock chicken ( a cold steamed whole chicken bathed in an aromatic and spicy sauce), Yunnan pineapple steamed rice with shrimp, an off-menu dish that Chef made for us, Pork belly braised with Mui Choy, (think sauerbraten with better meat and more indulgent), Twice cooked pork, home grown baby broccoli bathed in ginger and garlic, E noodles with shitake noodles-- the noodles start off soft, then bounce back, Taiwan fish, vivid with the taste of fresh herbs,
And 2 dishes I thought were not so successful: Tofu with crabmeat sauce: not enough contrast between the mild tofu and the mild crabmeat (but the dish still got finished!) And Tamarind shrimp: huge shrimp, but the flavors did not quite meld.

Ten dishes, that included a whole duck and a whole chicken, plus seconds of the broccoli, were ample for us 12, and only cost $18 per person, tax included!

I know Odenton may be a bit of a schlep from your place, but the flavors, and the family that run the restaurant, make it well worth the journey.

(Photo courtesy of the Grace Garden Web site) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:33 AM | | Comments (14)
        

A fun new restaurant- and food-related game

Owl Meat has sent us a fun new food-related game for today, which is a relief because one more Mystery Product ingredients list and I would have to go on a raw food diet.

Just in case it escapes your notice, Owl Meat has an Owlman action figure. (I assume that's his Owlman action figure in the picture.) Extra points if you can tell us about Owlman without looking him up.

Also with this post he gets the worst pun of the week award.

OwlMan1.jpg

Here's what his e-mail said:

"I personally am sick of looking at the contents of processed food for a while, so I thought we could change gears for this funtastic Thursday.  I made myself a big pot of genmai tea and came up with a fun new game.

"Times are tough for Owlman.  For a variety of reasons, mostly an insatiable appetite for live albino mice that he imports from Macedonia and a crippling addiction to decorative codpieces, he has been shopping his services around.  Can you guess who his corporate friends are by their logos?  No. 3 is my all-time favorite logo.

"Here are the rules: Guess what the logos represent.  They are all food- or restaurant-related.  I put numbers near them for your convenience.  Be as general or specific as you like.

"This week's prizes: (1) Two passes to Ticklemania in Arbutus; (2) a slightly used BeDazzler, or (3) a box of expired grocery store coupons (just cut the expiration date off, they never check).  Since I can't add images as time goes on, this is it, but I will possibly give some hints.  So go lick a 9 volt battery to stimulate your visual cortex, carbo-load and get crackin'!  Good luck."

--Owl Meat, It's Who's for Dinner

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:05 AM | | Comments (49)
        

June 11, 2008

When retro goes too far

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No, I'm wrong. Retro can never go too far. At least not when it comes to TV dinners. I used to pray that my parents would go out so my brother and I would get to have fried chicken TV dinners for dinner, the kind where you had to turn back the foil so the chicken would get crisp.

What you're looking at to the left takes this nostalgia to the next level. ...

The Loews Regency Hotel on Park Avenue in New York City has brought back TV dinners, served in appropriately divided containers in the 540 Park restaurant, the Library and room service. One difference is the cost: $30.

Here's what the press release says:

Executive Chef Andrew Rubin’s twist on traditional comfort-food brings guests back to a time when families sat around their TV sets, watching the classics and enjoying pot roast, fried chicken and other favorites.  Today, Rubin elevates these plates with upscale ingredients, a spin on side dishes and even a completely new take on the “traditional” – introducing favorites such as salmon onto the sectioned plates for the first time.

The fried chicken dinner includes free-range chicken fried with a buttermilk and cornmeal crust, mac and cheese made with Asiago, freshly shelled peas and corn cut off the cob, cornbread, and cherry cobbler.

I'm almost inspired to stop at the frozen food section of my local supermarket for a Swanson's on my way home, seeing as how I'm not anywhere near the hotel tonight.

Ha ha. Just kidding.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:13 PM | | Comments (28)
        

Why we overeat

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One reason we overeat, scientists say, is the fear of death. This makes perfect sense to me; I see no reason why they wasted any more time trying to prove it. But to test the hypothesis, researchers asked subjects to write essays on a visit to the dentist or death. Afterward they were offered a plate of cookies.

Not surprisingly those who had spent time thinking and writing about death ate more cookies than they should have, while those who had written about their dentist didn't.

Rosellina Ferraro, an assistant professor of marketing at the University of Maryland, College Park, called overeating a "possible mechanism for dealing with death-related anxiety."

But this is my favorite part of the story, which was published in New Scientist: ... 

In his latest, still unpublished study, [researcher Dirk] Smeesters found that people with low self-esteem shop and eat more after watching death-related news clips.

"One would hope that companies do not exploit this by putting food ads straight after the news," Smeesters says.

Gee, I'm sure that would never happen. That's why there's someone in marketing rather than behavioral science commenting on the research.

(Photo courtesy of Chicago Tribune/MCT)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:33 PM | | Comments (27)
        

You say tomato

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I personally felt the world was coming to an end when I heard about the tomato scare. But clearly not everyone agrees with me that a summer without tomatoes would be a summer not worth living through.

Namely Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger, Wings and Crab Ball Expert John Lindner. Notice he isn't our Resident Fruits and Vegetables Expert.

Anyway, here's his take on the whole crisis: ... 

(AP Photo/Matt Rourke)

 

You say tomato

I’m stressed, stressed at my indifference to the current tomato scare.

I fear no tomato.

It’s a laughable berry*, ketchup in its larval state.

Nevertheless, taxed as a vegetable.

Hmpf!

Sorry. I can’t accept it as a killer.

*or fruit, part of the nightshade family

Death of a Tomato

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:18 AM | | Comments (20)
        

June 10, 2008

Eating outdoors

AngeleRestaurant.jpgEvery week I get an e-mail from the Baltimore City liquor board about upcoming hearings. I'm struck by the fact that this summer every e-mail seems to contain more and more bars and restaurants with a "request to provide outdoor table service." (I bet they're reconsidering that today, ha ha.) This week's included Eden's Lounge and Kisling's Tavern. Baltimoreans are really embracing the al fresco dining thing this year.

I love eating outdoors, as you know; but even I was nonplussed by the tables outside Tapas Teatro and Sofi's Crepes last week when we went to a performance at Everyman Theatre. If I had been the people sitting at them, I would have felt as if I was eating in a construction zone. In fact, I would have been eating in a construction zone. But it didn't seem to bother any of the diners. ...


If you know of any place that have good outdoor seating (especially first timers), please post below. And note the Outdoor Dining category on the right of the page. 

This weather can't last forever. 

Sorry, the photo is of a restaurant in California overlooking the Napa River. I just liked it.

(Photo by Bryan Chan/Los Angeles Times)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:50 AM | | Comments (34)
Categories: Outdoor Dining
        

Top ten summer drinks and where to get them

SummerDrinking.jpgI was considering Matt Hudock's suggestion of summer foods for this top ten, but I did it last summer and I'm not sure I have much new to add from my own experience yet this summer.

The topic didn't get much discussion, though, and I know we can do better this year, so I'm going to make it one of the entries for next week when I'm on vacation. DO NOT TALK ABOUT SUMMER FOODS YET.

Meanwhile, in this intense heat I've been thinking about summer drinks more than summer food, so I decided over the weekend that I would make hot-weather drinks, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic, this week's Top Ten Tuesday. 

There is one that isn't on the list that should be, but I don't know where to get the best: iced coffee. Maybe you can help. 

I should give a shout-out to Midnight Sun Sam, who not surprisingly was a big help in compiling this list: ... 

* Mojito at Little Havana on Key Highway

* Iced tea at Cafe Hon in Hampden

* Limeade or ginger limeade at Suzie's Soba (7 N. Calvert St., 410-528-8883) downtown 

* Margarita at Blue Agave in Federal Hill

* Sangria at Tapas Teatro next to the Charles Theater

* Lemonade at Neopol Savory Smokery's stand at the Waverly Farmers Market

* Frozen daiquiri at Stalking Horse Tavern (26 E. Cross St., South Baltimore, 410-244-6722)

* Fruit smoothie at Zia's Cafe in Towson

* Malted milkshake at Fields of Pikesville (1401 Reisterstown Road, 410-486-3375)

* Gin and tonic at the Chart House in Annapolis 

 

(Photo by STRDEL/AFP/Getty Images)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:28 AM | | Comments (52)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 9, 2008

All-day Sunday brunch at Abacrombie

AbacrombieBrunch.jpgMultimedia Editor Mary Hartney tells me she had dinner at Abacrombie the other night and her server told her the restaurant is now open for brunch on Sundays from noon to 7 p.m. (with no dinner service). It's the upscale version of the all-day breakfast trend we were talking about earlier.

Still, those are the most extreme hours for brunch I've heard of at a restaurant that doesn't do all-day breakfasts otherwise.

Here's the brunch menu from its Web site: ... 

Steak and Eggs
Cast iron bistro steak, scrambled eggs, brown butter hollandaise

Eggs Benedict
Poached eggs, ham, brioche toast, classic hollandaise

Omelet
Roasted wild mushrooms, baby spinach and gruyere

Amaretto French Toast
Apple wood smoked bacon, toasted almonds, maple syrup

German Apple Pancakes
Pink lady apples, maple syrup, apple wood smoked bacon

Grilled Tuna Salad
Ahi tuna, grilled escarole, lemon-caper emulsion

 

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:35 PM | | Comments (5)
Categories: Brunch
        

Best new wine list: Cinghiale

CinghialeWineAward.jpgCinghiale in Harbor East has gotten national recognition for its wine list. The July issue of Food & Wine named it one of the seven best among restaurants that have opened in the past year.

The 480-wine list is centered on northern and central Italy. Though many of the wines may be unfamiliar, there are 40 to 50 by-the-glass choices and five flights of four wines. 

Most people I know would agree that it's that good, but I'm not sure what the process was in determining the winners. It's not clear to me whether anyone from Food & Wine actually went to Cinghiale. And the photo with the article looks awfully familiar to me. I think I've seen it in an ad for the restaurant.

This isn't a knock on Cinghiale, which certainly deserves the award.

And now to veer totally off the subject: ... 

I was struck by the names of the winners, all new restaurants: Fraiche (Los Angeles), Sepia (Chicago), Spruce (San Francisco), Proof (Washington, D.C.), Dante (Cleveland), and Insieme (New York City).

This oh-so-cutting-edge trend of interesting-sounding but only vaguely relevant one-word names for new restaurants could get old fast.

 

(Lloyd Fox/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:13 AM | | Comments (24)
        

Monday Morning Quarterbacking

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First of all, I should point out that the mystery photo in Next Tuesday's Top Ten is Ciao Pizza Bistro Italiano. But all the guesses made sense to me. (I used it because the photos weren't taken in time to include one with last week's Review Preview.)

Ciao Pizza Bistro Italiano is one of those restaurants where there's not much more to say than what I said in my review. I've already joked too much about the name, although I swear I had to look it up once again to make sure I got the words in the right order before I wrote this. The name is that forgettable.

I should also point out I can't even bring myself to include the exclamation point after Ciao, as in Ciao! Pizza Bistro Italiano, although that's officially its name. 

Anyway, if you have anything to add, want to say something about the review, or just feel like telling us about your weekend, please post below 

 

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:49 AM | | Comments (9)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

June 8, 2008

Next Sunday's review

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Saute (2844 Hudson St.) in Canton is a restaurant and bar that opened with lofty ambitions and high expectations. The space is handsome, particularly when the weather is nice enough to allow the big windows on two sides to be opened wide. You almost feel like you're eating outdoors.

I'll be interested to see if and how the place changes as it discovers its constituency. I can't believe in six months there won't be a burger on the menu. But I admire the place for attempting more. For details, please read my review in next Sunday's Arts & life Today section.

 

(Monica Lopossay/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:49 PM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Review Preview
        

Market vendor of the week

CalvertFarm1.jpgI decided to branch out from my usual Sunday market vendors this week because the Calvert Farm truck had some good-looking early summer vegetables. Supposedly everything is certified organic, but I was just buying on looks.

For some reason, I love cauliflower. I have no idea why. Could there be a more boring vegetable with fewer health benefits compared to, say, broccoli? Maybe I love it because it's the perfect vehicle for cream, butter, cheese, salt and freshly ground pepper, a few of my favorite things.

Remember, the market, located downtown under the JFX viaduct, is open till noon. 

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Posted by Elizabeth Large at 7:37 AM | | Comments (20)
        

Designer's ashes buried in Pringles can

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Maybe I should start a feature called Weird Stories About Food Cans. This would be in it along with the cheeseburger in a can

Apparently the designer of the Pringles potato chip can and the whole system of getting those curved, stacked chips into the can  was so proud of his work he asked to have his ashes buried in one of the cans when he died. 

Fredric J. Baur, of Cincinnati, who died in May at age 89, was an organic chemist and food storage technician, whatever that is.

Consumer blogger Liz Kay sent me the link to the AP story, suggesting that maybe it was too weird for Dining@Large.

Surely you jest, Liz.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:21 AM | | Comments (22)
        

June 7, 2008

The end of Crab Week

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As Crab Week draws to a close, I realize I forgot to mention that hard-shell crabs were the cover story of May's Saveur magazine.

I certainly didn't appreciate the fact that the print edition focused on New York and Vietnam, not Maryland; but it's certainly worth mentioning.

I'm about ready for big juicy steak. How about you? But if there's anything left to say about crabs, please post it below. 

For instance, I didn't have any advice on buying crabs from the back of a truck on the side of the road because I've never done that. Maybe you have.

I just went back to my original post about Crab Week events, and we did pretty well. The only thing I forgot was the best places to get carryout crabs. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:37 PM | | Comments (24)
        

The crab dip query

Just in the nick of time (for Crab Week anyway) I checked my work e-mail and found this:

Hi EL.  No discussion of crab dip this week, which is one of my top measures of a decent happy hour spot.  Is there still time?  Thanks, Lisa

Of course there's time. It's Crab Week till midnight. 

Interestingly, Lisa didn't include any mention of which bar's crab dip she likes, but maybe she'll read this and post below. Or maybe you have a suggestion.

Is there any chance any of you reading this don't know what crab dip is -- that hot concoction of crab, mayonnaise, cream cheese and seasonings?

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:25 AM | | Comments (29)
        

Money-saving restaurant specials

SottoSopraSpecial.jpgWith people eating out less, I'm noticing more press releases from restaurants about specials designed to lure customers in. Some of these are very good deals; the caveat is to watch the extras. (I'll never forget the time my husband spent $10 for an entree at Tuesday's with Gertie in the BMA -- and $11 when he asked for a glass of merlot to go with it.)

Anyway, when I get specials that sound enticing, I'll pass them along. And if you know of any (or you're a restaurateur and want publicity), please post below. In fact, if I could come up with 10 good ones, I would make them my vacation Top 10.

Here are two that arrived in my inbox yesterday: ...

Sotto Sopra in Mount Vernon now has an Aperitivo Hour, or rather two hours. (OK, it's like a happy hour.)

From 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday you can get $10 pastas and "light bites" for $6 or under (such as arancini di riso, fried risotto stuffed with mozzarella cheese, for $4 and spiced almonds seasoned with chiles and sea salt for $3). Also there are drinks for $1. For all of these, you have to sit at the bar.

The Prime Rib is introducing a Sunday Night Lite! menu starting tomorrow night. Hate the name, love the concept. It's a three-course, fixed-price menu for $33.

Roasted tomato soup, house salad, prime rib, crab imperial (and to think I forgot the Prime Rib when we were talking about crab imperial) prime rib and house-made key lime pie are some of the Sunday Night Lite! specials.

A half-price wine list featuring selected bottles is also available on Sunday nights.

 

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:22 AM | | Comments (22)
        

June 6, 2008

Next Tuesday's Top Ten and vacation

GuessRestaurant.jpgHere it is almost the weekend, boys and girls, and Crab Week has been so exciting and full of events we haven't even talked about next week's Top Ten Tuesday. I would suggest we avoid seafood.

Also, I'll be away on vacation the following week, so I'm looking for an easy Top Ten for June 17 that I can do in advance. (And yes, I will have my handy dandy computer with me, so don't think that while the cat's away...)

Actually, I was going to write a whole separate post on what to do on my summer vacation -- with the blog, I mean -- but it seems appropriate here.  I don't think I can get away with Second Helpings again. ...

Already Multimedia John is writing a Shallow Thought on Wednesday, and I bet I can prevail on Owl Meat to come up with a Mystery Game for that Thursday. Would any of you care to e-mail me a paragraph or two on a subject of your choosing that you think readers would like to talk about? (Restaurant-related, please.) That would make me very happy.

If I can't make you do the actual work for me, at least post ideas below.

Also, take a guess at what the restaurant pictured is. 

 

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 1:42 PM | | Comments (24)
Categories: Top Ten Tuesdays
        

The Attack of the Crab Monsters review

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The time has come to see what Film Critic Extraordinaire Michael Sragow thinks of that cult classic Attack of the Crab Monsters. I'm hoping that some of you couldn't resist and also got it from Video Americain or Netflix and can  tell us what you think.

Here's his review: ...

No matter the time of day (or for that matter stage of life), whenever you see Attack of the Crab Monsters, it will always be 1 a.m. to 2:10 a.m. on the first long night of the weekend and you will be 12 years old.

Mindless titillation it may be -- but can you really call a movie "mindless" when it revolves around giant mutated land crabs who eat their human victims' brains and assume their mental ability and powers of speech? (Not to mention the ability to throw their victims' voices in the most peculiar ways; at one point a monster talks through an ashtray.)

In the post-Godzilla set-up, scientists intent on charting the impact of H-bomb blasts arrive on an a crumbling Pacific atoll, replacing a previous group that disappeared. Need I say more?

You can imagine the ingredients. In fact, one of the virtues of a frugal sci-fi movie -- this one cost $70,000 -- is that you can keep imagining and re-imagining the ingredients even as you watch it. They include rubbery claws that would seem like something out of a joke shop if they weren't so huge. (OK, maybe they're from the Giant Squid Joke Shop). And the shapely biologist who gets lots of swim-time in a fetching one-piece -- unfortunately, no costume references here to the Bikini atoll.

Roger Corman co-produced and directed (from a script by another low-budget vet, his co-producer Charles B. Griffith); and he uses everything within his budget to keep things moving, including library clips of atomic blasts and tsunamis and underwater scenes that could have been shot at the bottom of a hydroponics tank. The scariest image is, of course, off-camera: it comes from a swabbie saying even normal land crabs could devour wounded Marines in minutes.

The funniest moment is partly off-camera, too: it comes when a portly scientist climbs a rope to freedom and you can just imagine the unseen gofers pushing him up on their shoulders.

You get all this in an experience so outlandish it will never interfere with your ability to eat the most delicate crustacean sensations.

I say, pass the dip. 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:22 AM | | Comments (8)
        

Crab soup, beautiful crab soup

 

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Here we are almost at the end of Crab Week, and I don't think anyone has talked about Maryland crab soup.

My favorite is from Eddie's of Roland Park, with good vegetables, just the right spices, not too salty, and big lumps of crab. But I bet the other local markets like Graul's do a good one, too.

It's not an upscale food, but it's harder than it looks to produce a good one that isn't too cooked down so the veggies are mushy and the overcooked broth too thick and salty. 

At the moment I can't think of any restaurant's crab soup that really stands out, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. Any nominations? ... 

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And while we're discussing crab soups, don't forget that everywhere else in the country that means rich cream of crab soup, which I also love, or something more inventive like the chilled sweet pea bisque with dungeness crab and mint pictured.

(Maryland crab soup and cream of crab soup photos by Barbara Haddock Taylor; bisque photo by Carlos Chavez/Los Angeles Times )

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:17 AM | | Comments (34)
        

June 5, 2008

The Crab Week T-shirt

Mr. Old Fart has kindly designed us a Crab Week T-shirt. I briefly thought of getting some printed up as a fabulous prize for something or other, but it seemed like too much trouble. Anyway, here it is:

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Posted by Elizabeth Large at 2:35 PM | | Comments (12)
        

Of soft crabs and terrible crab dishes

CaseysRestaurant.jpgAs Crab Week draws to a close (not yet, not yet, we still have through Saturday), I'm beginning to worry we won't fit everything in that needs to be discussed. For instance, Bill posted this under the entry on Crab Fluff:

i wonder if we are going to get a thread to discuss some blasphemous or terrible crab dishes?

Of course, we ended up doing that under that post, but if you have more examples, this is the place to do it.

At one point (when Dining@Large was the lead photo on the home page for a couple of hours), the comments were coming so thick and fast I'm worried I may have forgotten something else you wanted to talk about. If so, please post below.

Midnight Sun Sam suggested... 

...a discussion on actually catching the crabs you eat. He was wondering if anyone else reading had done it except him. When we were kids, my younger brother and I used to go crabbing at the beach on Pawley's Island with a chicken neck and a piece of string. Of course, we could never eat the crabs we caught, but it was a lot of fun. We just turned them over to our mother. We also never got up at 2 a.m. to catch them, as Sam said he did.

So that's another thing to discuss.

Finally, nobody's said much about soft crabs, although they are a favorite of mine. I love those crunchy little legs. Any of you had some great soft crab dish at a restaurant lately you'd recommend?

(Barbara Haddock Taylor/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:18 AM | | Comments (38)
        

Big changes at Timothy Dean Bistro

TDLounge.jpg

 

Even though it's Crab Week, every once in awhile we have to take a break for some real news. Timothy Dean Bistro in Upper Fells Point is closing this week for renovations.

When it reopens next Friday the 13th (not that I'm superstitious, but it seems like a strange date to choose), it will no longer be a restaurant. The new name will be T. D. Lounge. ...


The place will have live jazz and what's being called a "new American-French 'recession proof' menu" with nothing over $20 on it. I asked if Dean would still be in the kitchen and was told for the time being.

My guess is he'll get it going and then move on to his new venture, another Timothy Dean Bistro that's supposed to be opening at National Harbor in Prince George's County in September.

T. D. Lounge will be open Friday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. 

 

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer) 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:39 AM | | Comments (4)
        

Crab-tastic fun from you know who

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In case Crab Week has seemed a little, well, mainstream to you (except, of course, for Amanda's first video), Owl Meat is here with some wacky multimedia crab-tastic fun and a crab-related Mystery Product.

Remember the rule: No looking up ingredients on the Internet. After all, if you guess right you might actually win the Ear Wax Candy or one of the other fabulous prizes. Here we go: ...

Produto Quinta-Feira do Mistério

(Mystery Product Thursday)

Dê boas-vindas a meus amigos! (Welcome back, Frankenfood groms.) At first I wasn't inspired to do a Mystery Product for Crab Week, because you would already know that it's crab. Then I ate some leftover mushroom flan and a Hopi medicine man came to me in a dream.

He said, "The proof is in the rock. The proof is in the rock."

Hmmm ... at first I thought he wanted me to smoke crack, but that just didn't seem right. Then it hit me, "Proof ... rock, proofrock, prue frock, pure frock." So I visited Father Ignatius and he hit me on the side of my head and reminded me of this: I should have been a pair of ragged claws scuttling across the floors of silent seas. Still nothing. I ran out of St. Guillermo's just as Father Iggie was about to chalice-whack me.

As I was tweaking my illegal satellite hookup to try to get some Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, I came upon my favorite fighter Antônio Gonçalves Dias a.k.a. Caranguejo Louco (Crazy Crab). [Owl Meat sent me a fabulous photo of Crazy Crab, but I couldn't make the link work, so he's is going to post it in a comment. EL] Inspiration at last! And then I did the Mystery Dance.

You may want to ease yourself into the fracas by checking out this girl playing a harp and singing about clams, crabs, cockles, and cowries. You may know Joanna Newsom from such benefit concerts as Let's Save Tony Orlando's House. I have also included some other multimedia crab-tastic fun:. Crab Fu - Crab Kung Fu Crab Origami Crab vs Dog - I guess he didn't see the sign at the top. Smoking Crab -- Just stoopid. This week's prizes are A box of Ear Wax candy ; one of my super-tastic vinyl records: Jonah Jones' I Dig Chicks;

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or boxing lessons from my half-cousin Chino Alvarez, a.k.a. Kid Guapo (retired).

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Today's product has three parts that combine to create a dish that is more heavenly than a backhoe full of ladies in polyester pants.

INGREDIENTS

Part 1: Water, Casein, Corn Syrup, Sodium Phosphate, Modified Food Starch, Salt, Potassium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Natural Flavor, Calcium Phosphate, Artificial Flavor, Sorbic Acid (Preservative), Carrageenan, Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Artificial Color, Vitamin A Palmitate, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Vitamin B12

Part 2: Jumbo lump crab meat, chives, spices, salt

Part 3: Mycoprotein, rehydrated egg white, enriched wheat flour (niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), canola oil, onions, textured wheat protein (wheat protein, wheat starch), Contains 2% or less of whey protein concentrate, salt, buttermilk powder, rice flour, dextrose, yeast, garlic powder, autolyzed yeast extract, tapiocastarch, pectin, natural flavors, sunflower oil, ascorbic acid,black and white pepper, citric acid, onion powder, gum arabic, celery seed, calcium lactate, paprika extract, lemon oil

So ... let us go then, you and I, when the evening is spread out against the sky ...

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:19 AM | | Comments (107)
        

June 4, 2008

Serendipity and Pearson's Port

By total coincidence, Pearson's Port, the Newport Harbor, Calif., seafood store where Therese Pearson showed our Amanda Hastings how to kill, clean and cook a West Coast crab, is the star of the Los Angeles Times online food section today. Here's the link. Of course, the story is about spotted prawns, but still.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:29 PM | | Comments (0)
        

Crabs and beer: Does it matter what kind?

CrabsBeer.jpgBy now you probably know I'm not a beer drinker, so I'm turning you over to Beer Blogger Rob Kasper for a serious discussion about what beers go with steamed hard shells.

But does it really matter? I mean, does taste even enter into it by the time you're on your second crab covered in Old Bay?

I would think it's more a matter of a) cooling properties, b) thirst quenchiness (is that a word? It is now), and c) alcohol. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

And why does no one mention Mexican and Indian beers? I would think beers that can stand up to those two cuisines could hold their own at a crab feast.

While you're at it, care to guess the crab house pictured? 

(Andre F. Chung/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:22 AM | | Comments (32)
        

How to make crab enchiladas

Those of you who were horrified by Amanda Hasting's video illustrating the crab cooking technique of Therese Pearson of Pearson's Port will like this kinder, gentler video about how to make a West Coast favorite, crab enchiladas.

I don't know if you can appreciate how funny the whole retro Little Woman in the Kitchen thing is unless you know Amanda, but maybe you can tell just from how she looked in her Sugar Week video and Crab Week West Coast Style.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:55 AM | | Comments (14)
        

Shallow Thought Wednesday

What would Crab Week be without a few Shallow Thoughts from Multimedia Editor and Resident Cheeseburger, Wings, and Crab Ball Expert John Lindner?

Here we go: ...
Thoughts I keep to myself during Crab Week:

1. What's with the Old Bay worship? (My first experience with OB: Bought a half a bushel of crabs from a guy in a truck in Laurel. He knew I was a rookie. He gave me some of his OB stash -- in a Baggie. Like it was Maryland cocaine. No kidding.)

2. Crab, MD style, is one of those foods that represent more work than it's worth. Why not buy a tub of the meat and be done with it? (Please keep in mind that this is a Thought, not a Seditious Act. I would NEVER bring a tub to a true MD crab feast.)

3. Redeeming Fact: I still have my first mallet. Do you?

4. Third lesson I learned about MD crab feasts: Never handle Old Bay-laden crustaceans when you have a cut on your finger.

5. My favorite crab dish since emigrating to MD: crab balls. Had them at a restaurant very near the Middleton Tavern in Annapolis. Loved 'em. I think the name of the restaurant was O'Reilly's ... or something Irishy to that effect. Not sure if it still exists in that iteration. Loved the crab balls.

6. The pinnacle of crab dishes: Veal Oscar.

7. At one time, perhaps it persists still, Wisconsin law prohibited the sale of apple pie without a slice of cheese. So, you see, I am a poor one to question the culinary peculiarities of my adopted region. With that confession and this poem I wish you dearly loved denizens of the Sandbox a Happy Crab Week. Bang away and pick.

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 5:27 AM | | Comments (26)
        

June 3, 2008

Crab fluff, fried hard shells and other strange things

PatricksImperial.jpgEnough with the steamed hard shells and crab cakes already. Let's talk about the rest of the crab universe.

I had crab imperial for the first time in ages recently at Tark's Grill. At one time practically every restaurant in the area had it on the menu, sometimes in several variations (flounder stuffed with crab imperial, shrimp stuffed with crab imperial, you get the idea). Who would have guessed it would ever go out of style?

It's less surprising that crab fluffs and fried hard shells (which I haven't had in years, but as I remember are stuffed with crab cake mixture and then fried) aren't around as much as they used to be. This is an era when people don't fry crab cakes anymore, let alone dip them in thick batter and then fry them, which is what a crab fluff is.

As for the fried hard-shell crab, it's such a bizarre concept words fail. But it does have a sort of awful fascination, doesn't it?

I can't think of any other weird crab dishes at the moment, but I'm sure readers will have some suggestions.

(Photo of Patrick's crab imperial-stuffed lobster tail by Colby Ware/Special to The Sun) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:43 PM | | Comments (39)
        

What's wrong with tourists?

FoodCourt.jpgI thought this was an intriguing observation/question by MD Canon under the Top Ten Crab Houses post. Anyone want to take a crack at it?

As someone who travels a lot (30K in the car, 25K by air in an average year, though on business rather than recreation) I'm wondering what's wrong with tourists? When I'm visiting a city for 48 hours and get one dinner to myself, I like to look for iconic experiences. It's nice to be able to stroll around something like Pike Place Market or the Riverwalk and know that you are getting a taste of the local culture -- even if the really good stuff is hidden away. (Though I am always grateful when Zagat provides a decent hint!)

I don't know if it's really the case, but I feel like a place geared to tourists is going to be more expensive, more crowded and somehow less "real." But maybe that's not true.

And when I drive 45 minutes to get to Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn for steamed crabs, I guess I'm the tourist.

 

(Amy Davis/Sun photographer) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:05 PM | | Comments (17)
        

Free doughnuts!!!

FreeKrispy.jpgOK, free doughnut. Apparently Friday is National Doughnut Day (who knew?) and Krispy Kreme is giving away one free doughnut per customer at "participating locations." I hope that doesn't mean two locations in California.

Anyway, I assumed this was a holiday Krispy Kreme made up, not that there's anything wrong with that, but not so. Here's what the press release said:

National Doughnut Day was established in 1938 by the Chicago Salvation Army to raise funds during the Great Depression and to honor the work of World War I Salvation Army volunteers who prepared doughnuts for thousands of soldiers. National Doughnut Day is celebrated annually on the first Friday in June.

(AP Photo/Chuck Burton) 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:06 AM | | Comments (17)
        

Top Ten Crab Houses

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If Baltimoreans have a Holy Grail, I once said in a review, it would be the perfect crab house. 

It's not just the heaviness and sweetness of the crabs and the perfect seasoning they're looking for. Intangibles like atmosphere, water view and old-fashioned charm play a part, too.

Other factors are important. If you have out-of-town visitors who are only here for a day or two, it may be hard to drag them down to Dundalk to tear apart crustaceans, an activity they're dubious about anyway. So you need to know about a crab house near the harbor, where your visitors insist on spending the afternoon.

I don't pretend to have tried every crab house in the area, so this list isn't a definitive one. Feel free to add your favorite by posting below.

Here are my 10: ... 

* Cantler's near Annapolis. A classic crab shack: hard to find with communal tables, a view of Mill Creek, and lots of happy people.

* Captain James Landing between Canton and Fells Point has a crab deck in the summer across the street near the water where you can get crabs and corn on the cob.

* Costas in Dundalk. It may not have the atmosphere of some crab houses or the water view, but this family-owned business has been turning out excellent steamed hard shells for more than 35 years.

* Gunning's in Hanover. This is more of a seafood restaurant than it used to be when its specialties included fried green pepper rings with powdered sugar as well as steamed crabs, but it's on this list because I feel nostalgic about the original.

* L.P. Steamers in Locust Point. The crabs are heavy, the beer is cold, and there's a roof top deck for your dining pleasure.

* Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn (200 Eastern Blvd., 410-687-5996) in Essex. The quintessential crab house. You won't find any tourists here -- it's  too much of a hike -- just great crabs steamed with Mr. Bill's own seasoning.

* Nick's Fish House in Baltimore makes a Top Ten for the second week running. It has two advantages: Great outdoor water view seating and, although it's a short drive from the harbor, it hasn't been discovered by the tourists yet.

* Obrycki's downtown. I wanted to include one place near the Inner Harbor where you can take out-of-towners for steamed crabs. You're going to run into hordes of tourists at any of them, but I think this one is your best bet. If you have another suggestion, tell us why.

* Pier Street Marina (410-226-5171) in Oxford. I prefer this Eastern Shore crab house with great water view to the better known Crab Claw in St. Michaels, which is where all the tourists go. It overlooks the Tred Avon.

* Schultz's in Essex. If I'm going to travel to pick hard shells, I go to Schultz's. I can't really say why; I just like the knotty pine walls and the stuffed marlin for atmosphere, and the crabs are good.

(Colby Ware/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 4:45 AM | | Comments (154)
Categories: Steamed crabs, Top Ten Tuesdays
        

June 2, 2008

Amanda's R-rated crab video

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:52 PM | | Comments (26)
        

Monday morning quarterbacking

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I got this e-mail from Harry A. about my review of Stone Mill Bakery yesterday, which I reprint in its entirety:

I just read subject and I could not pass without my comment. No doubt the best bakery in the area. That is not saying much as this is a labor town. We do not even have a decent shopping center here like Tyson Corner.

I think he's saying he likes Stone Mill as much as I do. Sure, the service can be funky and not everything is perfect. But it's just one of those places I keep going back to. Given the cost of the breads (well worth it), I thought the dinners were surprisingly reasonable. What do you think?

(Elizabeth Malby/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 10:56 AM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking
        

Where else to get a great crab cake

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I'm feeling brave this morning after a restful weekend and excited about Crab Week (be sure to check out yesterday's entries if you were foolishly doing something else besides reading this blog this weekend), so I'm going to tackle the crab cake issue right away.

And then when Multimedia Editor Extraordinaire John strolls in to work late morning, I'll get him to help me put Amanda's West Coast Crab video on the blog. You won't want to miss that.

A certain unnamed poster has thrown down the gauntlet by calling crab cakes "the meatloaf of the sea." Feel free to discuss that heresy further if you want to. But the main purpose of this post is to get some names of places that have a great crab cake other than the usual suspects. That means...

...Faidley's, Koco's Pub, Captain Larry's and G & M are off limits. In fact take a look at these lists, and let's say any of these places are off limits. We want to know about new great crab cakes. If you can tell us why you like them, all the better.

I got the idea for this when someone I respect told me that Roma's in the 'burbs has a wonderful crab cake. Shouldn't that be wonderful lasagna?

Because no restaurant in Maryland can NOT have a crab cake on the menu (that's only a slight exaggeration), there must be dozens of places that have excellent crab cakes we don't know about. This is where you come in. Please post your suggestions below.

(Andre F. Chung/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:03 AM | | Comments (118)
        

June 1, 2008

Next Sunday's review

Because I forgot of the holiday last Monday and the fact that I was in computer class all day Friday, I didn't assign the photo for next week's review in time to have it taken and put in the system to go with this entry. So no visuals today.

The restaurant is Ciao Pizza Bistro Italiano in the Shops at Quarry Lake, and I know the name sounds like something I'm making up as a generic Italian chain restaurant name.

Not so. This is a local, independently owned place. And it's a big success. Someone was telling me a lawyer friend who could afford to eat anywhere in the city eats at Ciao several times a week. It's his new favorite place. Just because that's hard for me to believe doesn't mean I didn't like the restaurant. Read my review next Sunday in the Arts & Life Today section.

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 3:35 PM | | Comments (6)
Categories: Review Preview
        

What goes best with steamed crabs?

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Lissa's comment under Welcome to Crab Week raises a couple of important points:

Nice video, although I suspect that the first time I try to pick a crab, it isn't going to look quite like that.

So, what do you drink with crabs if you don't drink alcohol?

First, I forgot to mention in my Welcome that I hope everyone will plan to pick steamed crabs at least once this week, especially if you haven't done it before, and report back on where you went and how you did. Or, if you're an old hand at this, what you think of this year's batch.

Second, good question about the drinks, Lissa. I drink alcohol, but I don't drink beer. (Steamed crabs and a nice vinho verde? I think not.) People who don't drink alcohol usually get pitchers of Coke, but at Mr. Bill's Terrace Inn and probably some other crab houses, you can get pitchers of lemonade, which is my favorite.

(Christopher T. Assaf/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 11:02 AM | | Comments (78)
        

Welcome to Crab Week

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Crab Week, the week we've all been waiting for with crab mallet in hand, has arrived. I hope you're as thrilled as I am. I also hope you'll put that crab mallet down. People who know better will think you're an amateur.

When my in-laws retired, they moved to Oxford, Md., on the Eastern Shore and we visited them most summer weekends. Occasionally their watermen neighbors invited us to a crab feast. The two things I learned early on about eating steamed crabs with Eastern Shore folks at home are...

 


...they don't use a lot of spices to steam their crabs, and they don't use crab mallets. Their theory was that restaurants steam their crabs with a highly spiced mix (which I admit I like) because it makes the customers thirstier and they sell more beer that way. One thing is for sure, if you don't use Old Bay or something similar, you can taste the sweet meat of the crab better.

I was particularly impressed by the fact that the only tools on the table were knives. They used their hands to crack the claws, no mallets needed. Of course, they knew just the right place so the claws would break easily, and I don't. So I just bang away. But I'd like to be able to do it the way the experts do. On the other hand, you're going to have fun no matter how  you pick your crabs.

Here's some advice if you're a newbie:

 

 (Photo of crab/special to the Baltimore Sun/Roxanne Earley)

 

 

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 9:01 AM | | Comments (27)
        
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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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