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May 19, 2008

Monday Morning Quarterbacking


If you missed it yesterday, check out my review of the new Meli in Fells Point. When I interviewed Damon Hersh, executive chef of Kali's Court, he said that  it completed the Kali's Restaurant Group's trio of three very different places: high end (Kali's), mid-priced (Mezze) and very casual (Meli).

I was expecting something quite different, especially because Meli calls itself a "patisserie and bistro," with patisserie coming first. Hersh even described it as Fells Point's answer to Little Italy's Vaccaro's, a place to stop for coffee and a sweet.

If anything, to me Mezze seems to be more casual, a tapas bar where you can get just a nibble with drinks if you don't want a lot of food. That's harder to do at Meli. ...

I'm sure they wouldn't turn you away if all you wanted was dessert. But it's just more restaurant than I expected.  If Kali's Court had a casual menu, I would expect it to be the same as Meli's, even down to the orchid on one of the plates. (Not my favorite garnish.)

If you've been there, I'd be interested to hear if you agree.

Suddenly a lot's going on in Fells Point. The new seafood restaurant Riptide by the Bay has opened on Thames, and Fin will be opening in the Admiral Fell Inn sometime soon. Still haven't heard any more about Miss Irene's.

Updates welcome. 

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 6:31 AM | | Comments (2)
Categories: Monday Morning Quarterbacking


Last night, while watching Iron Chef (leave me alone, I like Cat Cora) with the secret ingredient being honey, I brought up the review for Meli.

Hubby declared he was ready to try it once I assured him that no one would try to give him blue cheese honey ice cream. (I, on the other hand, would have loved to taste this.)

Hmmm--cheese and honey. One of my friends in grad school used to combine those ingredients, but without the ice cream component. It was surprisingly good.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.

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