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April 11, 2008

The open kitchen trend

PazoOpenKitchen.jpgThis week's Shallow Thought Wednesday Thursday entry has evolved into a discussion of open kitchens and what their value is. I love this insight by Robert (the Single One):

Open kitchens are nothing more than the road crew standing around watching the one guy shovel stone. Everyone (well at least of the Y chromosome persuasion) likes to watch other people work. And if the workers use lots of neat toys, oops, I mean tools, so much the better. Ever watch the plumber in your house? New windows, siding and roof are nirvana.

Anyway if you have more to say on the whole open kitchen subject, say it here so people won't miss it. ...

Here's what Joanna Daemmrich wrote in her story on the subject a few years ago in the Taste section:

"Chefs no longer are blue-collar workers who toil in the back; they're now celebrities who perform in front of the dining room. ...And kitchens have become a central attraction, artfully designed, sometimes lined with bar stools to let curious customers sit even closer to the cooking.

"'You get this adrenaline going,' says [Alison Chase of Aqua Terra in Annapolis] whisking tempura batter on a busy night. ... 'If I sense there's not enough energy in the restaurant yet, I'll squirt some oil on the grill to get flames going. I have fun with it, absolutely.'  

"Dining out has always been about entertainment. Sitting next to a crowded and noisy restaurant kitchen, though, used to be considered not stylish but unpleasant.    

"What happened over the past two decades, according to restaurateurs and kitchen designers, is that eating in the kitchen became commonplace, even chic, made popular by televised cooking shows and 'great rooms' in modern homes.

"These days, open kitchens can be found in all kinds of restaurants, from the national chain Romano's Macaroni Grill to Baltimore's elegant Charleston. At some of the hottest restaurants around town, the best seats are by the burners."

 

(Chiaki Kawajiri/Sun photographer)

 

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:41 PM | | Comments (9)
        

Comments

I have no particular aversion to open kitchens, per se. If it works for a particular establishment, that's OK by me.

I don't know that I'd go to a restaurant that I knew had an open kitchen if I was planning a quiet, romantic dinner, but aside from that, no problem.

Don't know if the sandbox caught the Food Network bio on Duff Goldman. They interview Cindi Wolfe and had shots of her (current?) kitchen. It was huge, full of really kewl looking toys, and I want one. Same size and toy collection. And I don't care if I only cook for one, usually (Book being a very light eater.) I need a kitchen like that.

As Flipkid said, I can enjoy it depending on the type of restaurant and the mood my DW and I are in. It can be interesting to look "behind the scenes" at how a commercial kitchen works. Even where an open kitchen is employed you can usually be seated far enough away so you don't notice it.

"Pay no attention to that chef behind the curtain."

When I read RtSO's post, I thought about Kitchen Stadium on Iron Chef.

I just returned from lunch at Uno's Inner Harbor (more on that in a bit). One of my companions ordered the multi-grain pasta dish that was delivered with traditional pasta instead - and no explanation from the waitron. When I suggested that he send it back he refused, stating his belief that if you tick off the staff (wait or kitchen) they will do vile things - okay, he said spit in - to your food. I wonder how many of us believe that same thing?

Mini-review: It was not crowded at Uno's but it took 30 minutes for our three entrees to get to us. My Philly burger was cooked to order and yet it was devoid of seasoning. My pasta friend was convinced that his dish was made with vegetable, not olive oil and I have to concur. My other companion ordered the salmon skewer (fish over a salad) which she enjoyed. The floor staff had an annoying habit of moving backwards without looking behind them; I was almost hit by no less than five of them. One busboy was in such a rush to reset a table that a steak knife flew out of the napkin-enclosed utensils and landed at my feet. We were there at noon and it was obvious that the floor had not been mopped prior to opening; it was like walking down a movie theater aisle that is covered with a film of carbonated beverages. It was a disappointing experience save for the company I kept.

I'm think about turning my office into an open workplace. I can't wait for the spectators to come and watch me link spreadsheets.

RoCK: When I link spreadsheets I do it in a plain brown wrapper. There are just somethings one ought not do in public. And now back to linking, what a way to spend a Saturday afternoon. I love Excel.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss when it comes to the discussions on open kitchens. I was having dinner a couple years ago in a restaurant with an open kitchen and happened to look up and witness the chef sneezing all over his preparations. He made no attempt to cover his mouth and nose and I at that point could not finish my dinner and for quite awhile wasn t big on dining out! I could not get that image out of my head for the longest time!

Is that Pazo in the picture?

Yes, good eye. EL

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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