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April 29, 2008

Let them eat cake

HelmandBread.jpgSomeone recently suggested we do a Top Ten on best bread in restaurants, and I apologize for not copying that post into a future entry right away so I could credit you. Please raise your hand.

But I would hesitate to make up that list these days because things are changing so rapidly as places try to adjust to the rising price of a good loaf. Some restaurants only give you bread if you ask now, some charge for it, and some are scrambling to find new, cheaper suppliers.

Still, it's worth a discussion. (And I know we've discussed it before.) ... 

It's almost impossible for me to go back and check out what I said in my reviews because I mention bread so often, but off the top of my head I remember with pleasure the bread at Kali's Court, the housemade baguette at Abacrombie, the puri (hot, puffed fried bread) at Indigma and the biscuits at Victoria Gastro Pub. Disclaimer: These are just some fairly recent places I've been to; it's not supposed to be a complete list.

But all these could have changed by now. My guess is that places known for their housemade bread/rolls/biscuits/naan/pita are sucking it up and hoping prices of flour will go down some day. If a restaurant gets its bread from Atwater's or Bonaparte, that could be a different story.

What I'm wondering is if you've noticed any changes in the bread at places you frequent.

What a scary topic.

While I was looking for Bonaparte's Web site (Lissa, where are you when I need you?) I came across a link to The Fresh Loaf, a site for artisan bread enthusiasts. Me! Me! That's me! Waving my hand here!
 

(Bread baking at the Helmand. Algerina Perna/Sun photographer)

Posted by Elizabeth Large at 12:18 PM | | Comments (17)
        

Comments

Without an iota of hesitation I remind D@Lers that Sammy's Trattoria on Charles St. @ Biddle delivers warm bread to the table prior to asking patrons for their beverage order. Sammy is not stingy with bar patrons as the bartenders routinely ask non-dining guests if they would like bread. The mini loaves are served with a side of olive oil and ground black pepper, plus grated parmesan cheese.

The Black Olive still has the best housemade bread of any restaurant in town. They have two types - olive and onion, served with olive oil (which is delicious as well) and a blend of herbs.

Still Anonymous is back! It's such a relief to be able to differentiate you from Anonymous. :-) EL

Yikes, Bonaparte doesn't seem to have a website. How rustic of them.

Do the fresh tortillas at Sinaloa count?

Absolutely. And thanks for checking. I knew you'd come through for me. I hate it when I suggest a place doesn't have one by not linking, and then it does. EL

"Anonymous" is soooo 2 weeks ago

Have we come so far that Piano Rob must remark that a restaurant brings the bread prior to ordering the beverages? It used to be that most restaurants did this!

I like the warm, puffy "bread" at Lebanese Taverna. They serve it with a tasty dipping oil.

I HATE when a restaurant doesn't service bread. Boo!!! What a bad trend. I really hope those who do won't back off with the ever-rising prices of flour, eggs, etc.

With that being said, Abacrombie does still serve bread as I was just there this weekend. My fave, however, is the bread served at The Carlyle Club. It's always warm and delicious...and, there's always one variation stuffed with something delicious. What? I have no idea. Herbs? Carmelized onions? Who knows but we practically fight over that darn piece every time. Those who frequent must know what I'm talking about.

I've always loved Sabatino's, especially the double-sided garlic bread

We liked the assortment of breads we got at the Spice Company, which is a sister restaurant to the Carlyle Club.

Having nothing more than my gastric senses to go on, City Cafe has always had a nice, salty herbed foccacia. It is served as a side with soups and salads. It hasn't changed in the years since I've been lunching there, but my guess is that its not baked on site (feel free to correct me!) But hmmm hmmm is it good.

Why do so many restaurants serve bread that is stone cold with butter that is stone cold? Once you're done ripping the bread into shreds trying to butter it, it really doesn't matter what it tastes like.

I like the bread at the circus. I find that keeps me content and happy with my government.

Oh, well played, RoCK. Full marks and a bonus mark.

SPQR

The bread at Pazo is made every day - a few types - served with very good olive oil - they also have an ice cream sandwich for dessert that is served on house-made brioche with sugar chucks on top - excellent!

RoCK on! You get the wreath.

chez G wrote RoCK on! You get the wreath.

Don't forget that with the wreath you also get someone whispering in your ear "sic transit gloria mundi."

Mr. Old Fart--Spoil sport! Let's at least give him the weekend to rest on them.

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About this blog
Richard Gorelick was appointed The Baltimore Sun's restaurant critic in September 2010. Before joining the paper staff fulltime, he contributed freelance criticism and features articles about food to area and regional publications. Along the way, he dispatched for short-distance trucking companies, shilled for cultural non-profits, and assisted in cognitive neurology research – never the subject, always the control.

He takes restaurants seriously but not himself, and his favorite restaurant is the one you love, too.
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